From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 20 09:03:21 1997 Date: 20 Jun 1997 07:45:49 -0500 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: R1100RT fairing panel removal To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Cc: "Diaz Jon" Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" Miles Miller wrote: >One last thought on this issue of dealer maintenance vs. learning and >performing your own maintenance from me. If I owned a roadster like >Ron's, rather than the RT which is all covered in plastic, perhaps with >everything in the open as it is on the roadster, I might be more motivated >toward maintaining the bike myself. Oops, wrong thing to say. :) If me or any other RT owner writing a set of comprehensive directions on how to remove/reinstall the fairing panels would help you work on your bike, then we'll do it. Ah hell, I'll start it. [Guys, if I miss anything, please add it and forward to Miles.] HOW TO REMOVE FAIRING PANELS ON AN R1100RT: Remove front and rear seats. Remove black plastic side panels, and inspect screws attaching lift handle to frame....they loosen (PinkG). Mirrors are removed by placing the heel of your hand against the outside corner of the mirror body, and sharply pushing forward. Gentle pressure will likely strain the mirror body, but the impulse load from whacking it works just fine....ask you dealer to demonstrate. I remove the whole bulb assy from the mirror so I can't screw up the plug-in terminals. :) Also loosen the quarter-turn screws at the rear of each fairing panel. I pull the panel away from the bike after loosening so it does not impact removal of the panel. There are four major screw lengths used to attach the RT fairing. The 50mm? one is used in two places, and it passes thru the instrument panel just above the lower fairing vent and below the stereo speaker on either side. The 40mm? screw is in the area under the mirror. Two of those are used. The 25mm screw is used in six places, three per panel, where the fairing panels are attached to the footpeg castings. The 20mm screw is used everywhere else: one on either side of the front oil cooler opening, two per side by each header pipe, two per side above the top of each valve cover, four along the top seam of the fuel tank, and four attaching the bellypan. That brings us to a total of 34 fasteners. Piece of cake. Keep them separated by size the first couple of times you do this. I remove the bellypan first and put it aside. Then I remove all the screws holding the fairing panels on. Then each side can be removed....the easiest way to remove a fairing panel is to pivot the lower part outward, and as it clears the cylinder, lift upward slightly. The reason for lifting is that the seam at the top of the tank (the painted gas tank surround) has a lip, and the fairing panel hangs from it. This will all be obvious when you take it apart. HOW TO INSTALL FAIRING PANELS ON AN R1100RT: Some of this may be obvious, some not. You want to hang the fairing panel on the lip of the gas cap surround, while making sure that the forward tab engages into the front fairing. Sounds easier than it is, but be assured that the fairing material is very flexible and can take a little pushing and shoving. You won't have to do much tho. The order of installing the screws is personal, and everyone does it differently. I tend to attach quarter-turn screw at the back of the panel first, then the oil cooler area screw. Don't tighten anything completely yet. Then I install the 50mm screw by the fairing vent, and the 40mm screw that goes in under the mirror. You may have to jiggle the fairing to get these engaged, but don't worry. Then I install the screws behind the header pipe and above the valve cover....the ones about the valve cover also always need a little help, so I move the fairing panel about with my one hand while trying to engage the screw. Then I install the rest in no particular order, but when I am done, I check and double-check that everything is snug. The fairing panel won't fall off if one screw falls out, but if one did it looks bad and people would tease me. :) That's it. Reinstall your black plastic side panels and seats, and the bellypan. The mirrors are kind of neat to reinstall....snap engage the top mtg point, then with your hand supporting the inside of the fairing, cantilever the mirror forward to engage the front clip, and then downward to engage the other clip. Wiggle mirror hard to ensure that it is tight. I'd be up for doing website pics if enough people are interested. Don't be intimidated by plastic. :) Jon Diaz From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 26 12:49:16 1997 Date: 26 Jun 1997 10:59:00 -0500 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: FW: R1100RT fairing panel removal To: "BMW Mailing List" Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" I didn't see this come thru last week, so I'm resending. I apologize if the first did come thru and the problem was on my end..... Jon _______________________________________________________________________________ From: Diaz Jon on Fri, Jun 20, 1997 7:45 AM Subject: R1100RT fairing panel removal To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Cc: Diaz Jon Miles Miller wrote: >One last thought on this issue of dealer maintenance vs. learning and >performing your own maintenance from me. If I owned a roadster like >Ron's, rather than the RT which is all covered in plastic, perhaps with >everything in the open as it is on the roadster, I might be more motivated >toward maintaining the bike myself. Oops, wrong thing to say. :) If me or any other RT owner writing a set of comprehensive directions on how to remove/reinstall the fairing panels would help you work on your bike, then we'll do it. Ah hell, I'll start it. [Guys, if I miss anything, please add it and forward to Miles.] HOW TO REMOVE FAIRING PANELS ON AN R1100RT: Remove front and rear seats. Remove black plastic side panels, and inspect screws attaching lift handle to frame....they loosen (PinkG). Mirrors are removed by placing the heel of your hand against the outside corner of the mirror body, and sharply pushing forward. Gentle pressure will likely strain the mirror body, but the impulse load from whacking it works just fine....ask you dealer to demonstrate. I remove the whole bulb assy from the mirror so I can't screw up the plug-in terminals. :) Also loosen the quarter-turn screws at the rear of each fairing panel. I pull the panel away from the bike after loosening so it does not impact removal of the panel. There are four major screw lengths used to attach the RT fairing. The 50mm? one is used in two places, and it passes thru the instrument panel just above the lower fairing vent and below the stereo speaker on either side. The 40mm? screw is in the area under the mirror. Two of those are used. The 25mm screw is used in six places, three per panel, where the fairing panels are attached to the footpeg castings. The 20mm screw is used everywhere else: one on either side of the front oil cooler opening, two per side by each header pipe, two per side above the top of each valve cover, four along the top seam of the fuel tank, and four attaching the bellypan. That brings us to a total of 34 fasteners. Piece of cake. Keep them separated by size the first couple of times you do this. I remove the bellypan first and put it aside. Then I remove all the screws holding the fairing panels on. Then each side can be removed....the easiest way to remove a fairing panel is to pivot the lower part outward, and as it clears the cylinder, lift upward slightly. The reason for lifting is that the seam at the top of the tank (the painted gas tank surround) has a lip, and the fairing panel hangs from it. This will all be obvious when you take it apart. HOW TO INSTALL FAIRING PANELS ON AN R1100RT: Some of this may be obvious, some not. You want to hang the fairing panel on the lip of the gas cap surround, while making sure that the forward tab engages into the front fairing. Sounds easier than it is, but be assured that the fairing material is very flexible and can take a little pushing and shoving. You won't have to do much tho. The order of installing the screws is personal, and everyone does it differently. I tend to attach quarter-turn screw at the back of the panel first, then the oil cooler area screw. Don't tighten anything completely yet. Then I install the 50mm screw by the fairing vent, and the 40mm screw that goes in under the mirror. You may have to jiggle the fairing to get these engaged, but don't worry. Then I install the screws behind the header pipe and above the valve cover....the ones about the valve cover also always need a little help, so I move the fairing panel about with my one hand while trying to engage the screw. Then I install the rest in no particular order, but when I am done, I check and double-check that everything is snug. The fairing panel won't fall off if one screw falls out, but if one did it looks bad and people would tease me. :) That's it. Reinstall your black plastic side panels and seats, and the bellypan. The mirrors are kind of neat to reinstall....snap engage the top mtg point, then with your hand supporting the inside of the fairing, cantilever the mirror forward to engage the front clip, and then downward to engage the other clip. Wiggle mirror hard to ensure that it is tight. I'd be up for doing website pics if enough people are interested. Don't be intimidated by plastic. :) Jon Diaz From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 6 15:09:50 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: "ibmwr" , "oilhead" , "carl kulow" Subject: BMW: "Zero=Zero for '97 Oilheads Date: Sun, 6 Jul 1997 11:53:46 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" REVISED "ZERO=ZERO" FOR '97 OILHEADS '97 Oilheads have the new throttle cable distribution box under the battery area on top of the engine. Here is a revised "zero=zero" TPS procedure for these newer bikes, though it's hardly changed. The difference between the old system and new is the fact that the throttle cable from the twistgrip goes to a distribution box located underneath the battery area. The throttle cable attaches internally to a bellcrank wheel. Then two cables leave from the wheel to each throttle body, so there is no crossover synch cable at all. Another cable enters the distribution box from the start lever. When actuated, this cable pulls a tab across that contacts a flange on the wheel, opening the throttles a prescribed amount for starting. So the cable at each throttle body is just that, the throttle cable for that particular side. It is essentially as if the throttle cable has a "Y" upstream as the older Rs did. To do the TPS procedure loosen the free play adjusters on each throttle body. Then do everything else the same as far as TPS adjustment with the left TB plate closed up. When the TPS is "zero=zero", adjust the left throttle stopscrew for the .370 prescribed. Then start the engine as described and adjust the right TB stop screw for equal mercury. Then adjust the left TB cable for about .5mm free play and synch the right TB to the left using the right TB cable free play adjuster. Finalize your idle speed and synch with the previously closed bypass screws. You're done! Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 14 10:51:40 1997 Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 10:05:24 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) Subject: BMW: Flaming Fairings Reply-To: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) I must have screwed up when I sent this to Steve by private eMail. I got it back. So, pardon the use of band width, but it may be helpful to others. The usual flaming fairing was caused by tuning up the bike without having a fan cooling the cylinders. You cannot run the bike for five minutes in a stationery position unless there is an external fan on the cylinders. So, tell your friend to NOT warm up the bike. Enen in extreme winter conditions, be extremely careful. In most conditions, turn it on and ride. The RR1100RS is no longer sold with a lower fairing in the US, perhaps because of this problem. Under what circumstances is your friend's bike overheating ? What part of the fairing is being threatened by the heat ? How many bars are showing on the RID during normal operation ? Stephen and the notorious Dali Meeow (chanting lama prayers to perverse traction Gods while napping upside down), Miss Fluff (guarding the back yard from those ubiquitous back yard thieves), and Fancy (making great strides in fur ball production) '96 Marrakesh Red BMW R1100RS (The Redhead) and '89 red Hawk (Scarlet) in rehab in steamy Miami [25-deg 34.631' N latitude; 80-deg 20.931' W longitude], where it's hurricane season until Thanksgiving. Rolling Writer, IAJS #5, Amateur Gynecology & Espionage From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 00:38:46 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "ibmwr" , "oilhead" Subject: BMW: re: Champion spark plugs the cure for surging??????? Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 18:48:11 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Erik asks: ==== Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 14:18:34 -0400 From: Erik Miner Subject: BMW: Champion spark plugs the cure for surging??????? Hi Prezzes: I've now heard from a couple of folks that a certain Champion plug #409 I think it is, ==== 430 or RC9YC4 ==== is supposed to be the "almost cure all for R1100 (R-259) type bike surging does anyone have any ideas on this?? Is this Champion plug colder or hotter or what compared to the stock Bosch plugs??? ==== Just slightly hotter and equivalent to the Autolite 3923 I use. They WILL NOT cure surging, but they are sure cheaper than the OEM plugs and work/last just as well! I've been using the 3923 in my R1100RS for 30K. Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 14 14:59:21 1997 Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 12:19:23 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. To: tom coradeschi Cc: howman john , the internet bmw riders Subject: Re: BMW: Horse Power Chip/Exhaust for '96 RT Reply-To: Steve Aikens Tom Coradeschi wrote: > > John Howman: > >I understand that there is a Chip/Exhaust that can upgrade my '96 1100 RT > >to 125-130 hp, but that BMW will void the warranty. Has anybody had any > >experience with these types of products, or should I just trade in the RT > >and get a K1200? > > John, you can definitely do a chip-n-pipe upgrade on your R11RT. Don't > expect 125-130HP, however. If anyone claims this, ask to see hard data. My > guess would be (maybe) 110 (at the crank) tops. > > It will likely void your warranty (the chip, not the pipe). At this time, there is no "horsepower upgrade" available for the R1100 series. The "chip" you refer to is only to improve ridability (help reduce surgeing) of the R1100 and does not - nor do they claim to - improve/increase horsepower. Loose the cat code plug and you do basically the same thing the "chip" does, increases how rich to bike runs - although I believe I heard the "chip" also slows the response of the Motronic unit. The exhaust "upgrade" only changes the RPM range of the power band. There is a loss of torque in the lower RPM ranges but an increase in torque in the upper RPM ranges. But it's a wash - what you gain in torque in the upper end, is what you loose in torque in the lower end (roughly). I've seen some claims that "an exhaust" can increase horsepower by 7 hp, but dyno testing has not supported this claim. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 15 15:40:39 1997 Posted-Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 21:19:16 +0200 (MET DST) Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 21:12:20 +0100 To: LMA From: Theo Soppe Subject: Re: BMW: R1100 mail group Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Theo Soppe At 12:47 15-7-97 -0700, LMA wrote: > >Hi All, > Can anyone tell me if the R1100 mail group at cinnamon.com is >still there? I have tried to join it several times and the mail comes >back as undeliverable. > >tia > >Mark Ayotte >Southington, CT. >95 R1100R >81 R100RT (for sale) > > Sure. Mail to majordomoNoSpam@NoSpamcinnamon.com with subject:subscribe bmw-r1100 Theo. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Theo Soppe http://home.pi.net/~thsoppe Hoogland mailto:thsoppeNoSpam@NoSpampi.net the Netherlands MAG-NL: 4555 96 R11RT From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jul 19 07:28:41 1997 From: MTCollNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 07:19:30 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: HELP!! R1100RT Surging Problems Reply-To: MTCollNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Oh, boy, you should have been here a week ago! I had the same problem, posted a similar message, and prezzes from all over the country responded. I've attached a digest of the responses I got. I printed this list and took it to my wrench. It turned out to be a leak in the fuel filter, which caused a drop in fuel pressure. While I'm on the subject, thanks a million to all the folks who responded to my recent post on this subject. My wrench may have found the problem without your help, but it might have taken him longer than it did. Furthermore, it demonstrated to him that I'm not a man to be trifled with, having all the might of the IBMWR behind me. Beers for everybody!!! A couple of things come to mind, but firstly I'd check fuel pressure. There are a batch of filters that do leak under pressure, e.g., OK at low RPM where fuel demand is low, but at higher RPM where demand is high, well, you get the picture. You can check the fuel pressure out of the tank (with an appropriate gauge), Accessible on the right side with the fairing off. Pressure should stay up after you turn the ignition back off. This is on the center stand, etc. be sure your side stand is up obviously, or the pump won't run. If the pressure doesn't reach 30+ PSI or drops immediately to zero or a suspiciously low figure (after key off), you have a "leaky" filter. You don't need to hit the starter, just turn the ignition on and let the system pressurize. All disclaimers apply, etc., if you set yourself on fire =8-/ Mike - Be sure that BMW installed the correct CAT Code plug. I have a 95 R1100RS and it came with a GS CAT code plug which caused it to ping and backfire. My original dealer said the bike was fine and time would cure it. When I took it to CAL BMW it was discovered that the wrong plug was installed at the factory. Replacing the plug made a world of difference. I may be (probably am) wrong here, but aren't backfires catalytic destroyers? ie, the fact that you have had a backfire means you need a new cat?? I was having a similar problem with surging and backfiring. My shop checked the oil sensor and found it 20 ohms low. Still in spec, but low. Replacing the sensor now has only a slight surging and normal 'farting'. The bike went from almost unrideable to killer in 2 hours. Try the Champion Spark plugs #430 RC9YC4 they help a bunch. There's been a lot of talk about this. The only thing other thing I can tell you is a dealer near me (new jersey) recommends replacing the stock exhaust with a D&D or Staintune do away with the Catalitic converter and install a CO potentiometer to adjust CO. RK BMW in Depford NJ give them a call they can explain better, I have'nt done this yet my bike is running really great I get a little surging at about 3k -3500k rpm in third gear that's about it. I ran into a guy this weekend with a 95 RS who did a D&D and he said zero surging since RK did the pipe..so.. I may the pipe anyway for a bit more power and zero surge. The backfiring bugs me as it is an indication of either your ignition timing way off or bad/sticking valve. SOmeone in other mail said it is the cat converter. It is not but the backfiring will kill the converter but the converter will not cause it in itself. Recently I just worked on a Moto-Guzi with the same surge/backfire problems and the cause was identified as a fule metering problem in the fuel injection system. Only way to detect this is to use a diagnotic tool to measure the flow of each injector which is a pain if you do not have one. The culprit was a leak in the pressurized fuel system. Date: Thu, 27 Nov 1997 08:51:16 -0700 From: "Rob Lentini" Subject: BMW: R1100RS/RT Torque/Fuel Economy Improvements Beyond GS Intake Manifolds Friends: You may recall the simple intake tube mod I made to my RS and the post I sent out explaining what was done and what was gained. In a nutshell, what I did was replace the intake tubes (the fische calls them "manifolds") with those from a GS which are longer and narrower. I reported significant gains in low and mid range power with little loss of top end. Anyway, I decided to take this one step further and I think I've stumbled onto a configuration most anyone will be extremely pleased with. Even more throttle response, better mid range, AND improved fuel economy results. It's this simple: In addition to the GS manifolds, I have jumpered in the GS fuel injection "map" at the Cat Code Plug socket. A standard catalyst closed loop RS or RT has a golden yellow cat code plug with terminals exiting it marked 30 and 87. The cat code plug for the GS and R is rose pink with three terminals marked 30, 87, and 87a. I didn't have a rose pink CCP for experimental purposes so I used the four wire jumper I made for the CCP experiments I did 1 1/2 years ago which I wrote up as "R1100 Fuel Injection/Surging/Fixes -- 4 Parts" (I'll send this to anyone interested). So essentially I have the GS/R fuel injection map activated in my RS along with the GS manifolds. While I was very pleased with just the manifold installation, yesterday Roger Austin and I did a 550 mile loop from the desert to the Arizona high county and back. One goal was to arrange for the Alpine "lunch" on May 17, 98. But this would also be a good overall checkout of my RS in GS intake "clothes." Here are the results: 1. Low/mid range power further improved from just the manifold swap. 2. NO backfiring at all. My RS has been plagued by this with my Staintune pipe! 3. Fuel economy improvement of about 10%. 4. Smaller throttle opening noted for a given speed and load. 5. Motor runs the best it has EVER run -- Very Strong! 6. Again, this mod seems totally compatible with the "zero=zero" TPS procedure. So off to Iron Horse I shall tomorrow go -- to get the real rose pink CCP. Seems I've found a great combination of GS grunt and RS speed. This Oilhead is sure growing on me! regards, Rob Lentini '94 R1100RS Tucson, AZ H 520-790-8865 W 520-295-6411 AMA, BMWRA, IOC, MSF Director, BMW Motorcycle Owners of America IT'S SPRING IN TUCSON!!! Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 21:04:37 -0500 From: Jon Zurell Subject: BMW: R11 mileage per tank petrol Prezzes, FWIW I have been watching the posts very carefully concerning the distance an R11 will go on a single tank of fuel...adding all the posts, dividing by the number of posters, it has been determined the average R11, driven at average speed, with an average tank full or gasoline will travel and average of 332.9786546574812337752846582 miles before you run out of fuel. Hope this helps in your trip planing. YMMV Jon