From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 12:49:34 1997 Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:28:13 -0700 (PDT) From: David Brick To: IBMWR Cc: R1100 Mailing List Subject: BMW: Champion Plugs Reply-To: David Brick I've tried #430 Champions in my 96 R11RS, with the following results: 1. The bike starts quicker (less cranking before firing), hot and cold. 2. Surging during cruise (constant throttle openings) is substantially reduced. 3. Surging during gentle accelleration is not reduced. The improvement in steady-state cruising (#2) is quite wonderful. __________________________________________________________________________ David Brick Santa Cruz CA dbrickNoSpam@NoSpamarmory.com 96 BMW R11RSL RA MOA BOOF etc From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 28 13:48:28 1997 Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 11:19:32 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. To: Jay Martin Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: 4k Buzz Reply-To: Steve Aikens Jay Martin wrote: > > Prezz, > > At 3750-4000 rpm, the foot pegs on my R90 start to vibrate with a sort of > buzzing in the feet. Is this buzzing normal? And is the reason I don't > experience anything like this on the R75 is its soft, square foot peg > covers? The R90 has the round, hard ones. No, I don't yet own carb > sticks, but am trying to anticipate whether or not they will eliminate this. The buzzing is normal if the engine isn't tuned right, the carbs are out of sync, the motor mount bolts may need re-torqueing, or havin the older style footpeg rubbers which are very hard and do not attenuate any of the vibration, softer ones are available cheap. I'd suggest you get with a friend that has a set of carb sticks, rather than buy a set, unless you intend to do a lot of your own maintenance, and try carefully balancing the carbs. That probably is the real answer. Also, making a comparasion between the two bikes is difficult. As similar as they are, these are two very different machines. Good luck. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Aug 6 15:38:18 1997 Date: Wed, 6 Aug 1997 13:50:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Jerome Cook To: Dale Wellborn Cc: BMW Subject: Re: BMW: K-Whiner Becomes Oilhead (GS Advice Sought) Reply-To: Jerome Cook There is a mail group semi-dedicated to R1100 bikes. Ill send yo(anyone)u the sign up instructions if you want. There is a Club (oilheads) and newsletter (oilrag) for $15 per year $20 overseas Reply if you need the info cheers Jerry From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Aug 8 09:01:41 1997 Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 05:39:22 -0700 (PDT) To: "Ted T. Andersen" , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com (Roozbeh Chubak) Subject: Re: BMW: R11GS TUNING???? Reply-To: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com (Roozbeh Chubak) X-No-Archive: yes At 6:06 PM 8/7/97, Ted T. Andersen wrote: >After 35K miles, my '95 R11GS developed an intermittant "high speed >surge", that feels as if the ignition or fuel is cutting out... kinda >similar to "regular" surge, but at all rpm. It gets pretty hairy stuffed >in a corner close to redline when the bike is trying to buck you off. >Another symptom is that the bike will idle along just fine, then suddenly >die (sometimes with a loud intake backfire). Both of these situations >typically only occur after the bike is good and warmed up (1+ hour ride). > >Since the onset of this problem, the bike has spent 6 months (out of 1 1/2 >years) in the shop. >The various dealers have: > swapped out sensors, miscellaneous parts > swapped computers > rebuilt the top end > converted to the '97 GS throttle bodies and cable arrangement > >the effort has been heroic... just ineffective. > >MY QUESTION IS: does this sound familiar to anyone? Guesses/Opinions? >Are any of the pieces of equipment particularly temperature sensitive? Dear Ted: I had the "die & surge" problem on my first R1100GS (but not the engine croaking at idle). The "die & surge" problem took place in 2nd gear only. I would lose all power (e.g. taking a turn) and then the power would come back with a vengeance and catapault the bike. :-( They eventually changed the transmission -- second of three trannies I had on *that* GS -- and it solved the problem. Our own esteemed Paul Glaves (AKA Dr. Sprocket, now MOA Director) was early to diagnose the problem. I am reproducing part of his post on the subject (without permission): > >But, the hesitation, pause, lurch in second gear I can comment on. My wife's >R1100RS had the same symptoms. Riding it I could not tell for sure if it was >stalling, and restarting - or maybe jumping out of gear and then rengaging. > When it did it, there didn't seem to be any quiver in the tachometer which >would signal an engine start stop! I could feel no movement in the shift >lever - and if the dogs were disengaging and re-engaging, the shift forks >would have to move, which would have been felt in the shift lever (pedal). > >Engle Motors, the dealer in Kansas City diagnosed the problem as a weak compen >sator spring on the input shaft in the transmission. The compensator is the >two-lobe cam mechanism which releases if excessive torque is applied to the >input shaft. A weak spring will allow the compensator to release and >re-engage, creating the hesitation-lurch symptoms. > >So - to roozbeh, carefully watch the tach to see if a needle quiver might >signal engine stall/re-ignition. This would be a brain box proble. Lightly >rest your foot on the shift lever and see if you feel any movement which >would indicate a 2nd gear disengagement. > >I would bet that the transmission has a weak compensator spring which is >allowing the torque release on the input shaft to disengage and re-engage. > Bring this possibility to the attention of your dealer. This is a sneaky >problem to diagnose, but if they are looking in the right place, it might >prove helpful. Good luck, Ted. Regards, Roozbeh _______________________________________________________________________ Roozbeh Chubak AMA #552002 BOOF #1 BMWOA #38643 Village Idiot Idiologue Berkeley, CA BMWRA #21280 97 K1100LT DoD #6666 96 R1100GS ======================================================================= From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Aug 8 11:18:47 1997 Date: Fri, 8 Aug 1997 08:05:00 -0800 To: Steve Aikens , "Ted T. Andersen" From: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com (Roozbeh Chubak) Subject: Re: BMW: R11GS TUNING???? Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com (Roozbeh Chubak) X-No-Archive: yes At 6:43 AM 8/8/97, Steve Aikens wrote: > >If this is the case with your bike, Ted, take it to your dealer and show >him how to check it (or have him call Jed Webster at BMW and find out >how to check for a porous head), and while the bike is still under >warranty, get the heads replaced. Also, if you have this done and the >dealer wants to just replace one side, if you have to, get with BMW and >make sure both sides are replaced. Please note that the early '95 R1100GS heads had 10 fins; a few months later these were replaced by 9-fin heads. Reason is unclear: perhaps ease of manufacturing and/or cost savings. Make sure you end up with the same kind of heads on both sides. Regards, Roozbeh _______________________________________________________________________ Roozbeh Chubak AMA #552002 BOOF #1 BMWOA #38643 Village Idiot Idiologue Berkeley, CA BMWRA #21280 '97 K1100LT DoD #6666 '96 R1100GS ======================================================================= From Wayne Dowers Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:19:35 -0400 From: Wayne Dowers Subject: BMW: Re: GS vs K; Oilhead surging. Too easy, guys, too easy. - ---------- Matthew Thornbury You wrote: ... << >> 2. Oilhead surging: Hmmm, the K's don't surge do they? Hmmm, BMW went to one throttle cable actuating the *mechanically linked* throttle bodies on the R12C. OK folks, lets put 2 and 2 together here and come up with an even number, shall we? The only way to prevent the surging, and I mean totally eliminate it, is with perfectly synched throttle butterflies, and it's damn near impossible using cables. End of story. =================================================== It would also seem possible to solve the problem completely using a TPS on both throttle bodies so that the computer knows exactly where each is all the time. Maybe not the cheapest way tho. Wayne Dowers 96 R850R Panzer Green Metalic From daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 00:08:22 -0400 From: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) Subject: BMW: Legendary BMW Quality - Dali Meeow I filled out the survey on the R11 list and saw that I've had a few glitches. I have no problem with legendary BMW quality. But here's my own special list of minor irritants. Front wheel bent and replaced. Warranty ABS failed and completely replaced. Warranty Tranny failed and completely replaced. Warranty Throttle cables binding and replaced. Warranty Brake master cylinder leaked and replaced. Warranty Speedo defective and replaced. Warranty next week Side stand bracket and switch broken and replaced. My $$$ Side stand bracket replaced with stronger one. Warranty next week Head gaskets leaked and replaced with new metal design. Warranty next week The legendary BMW quality is ... legendary. Legend, historical myth, ancient belief. Yeah, that's it. What I have a problem with is the notorious BMW warranty. Notorious, as in wanting. As in very wanting. Gotta stop before I get carried away. Cat nip refill time. Meeeeowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww hisssssssssssssssssssss From Steve Aikens Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 10:36:54 -0600 Subject: Re: BMW: Surge misere Paul Matwiy wrote: > > Sorry for the latin. Well, I've reached the junction to which all R11 > owners must come. My 96 R1100RS (1 month old, 3K miles) has been back to 2 > dealers 3 times for throttle body balance, and so far the surgning results > are mixed. I can still feel what is to me an unacceptable amount of > surging and I jusge that my throttle response is not up to par. The > dealers (bless 'em) all tell me that every R11 does this and that my bike > is one of the best they've ridden. The dealers are wrong, it can be eliminated in most cases, or reduced to a level you have to really hunt for the problem to find it. **However, at 3k miles, the dealers are right**. 3k miles is nowhere near enough miles to really start thinking about a final solution to the problem. Very few componants in the R11 engine have time, in so short a life, to get settled in enough to not continue to change fairly rapidly as they wear in, and therefore, change the settings that worked for you for a while, pretty quickly, putting you right back where you started. At this point the only thing I can think of to reduce the surge to a minimum, is careful tuning and TB balance. Get some miles on the bike before you really try to go after the surge. > Anyone have any suggestions as to my next option? I've had suggestions of > new exhausts (get rid of the cat) and installing the CC Performance chip. Sorry to tell you this, but even getting rid of the cat and adding the CC Chip won't solve this without miles. You're essentially on a brand new bike. It really won't start to settle in until about 8,000 miles at the very least, at which point I would start trying to work on the surge problem a little. FWIW, I've broken in 2 R11RS's. The first, a '93, started to show signs it was happy at around 14,000 miles. The one I'm riding now, a '95, at around 18,000 miles. At about 25,000 miles they both improved significantly, again. Although I never got rid of the surge on the '93 (didn't know how), my '95 does not surge at all. Good luck. - -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From Matthew Thornbury Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 03:45:10 -0400 Subject: BMW: RE: R1100RSL... wotta bike...Concerns Hey Todd, Yep, you've definetly got to remember the #1 rule: Don't test ride it = unless you're prepared to buy it. ;-) 1.) ABS lights do not go off: They blink back and forth, sometimes staying solid, sometimes blinking. I tested em and did a full rear end lock up - no ABS(wasn't about to check the fronts)? there is abs in the rear also no? Could be a weak battery. Ride it for awhile, then shut off and restart. = See if that does it. If not, have the battery checked. 2.) It took a long time to Warm Up, would die immediately if I waited for only a couple of minutes before killing the choke. Problem? I think this is typical of the breed. If it has the R.I.D., mine takes = at least 3 bars on the temp. gauge showing before it'll idle w/o choke. 3.) Heard loud sort of KA- CHUNG in rear near pipe, thought it might be loose... anything else back there that might actually be loose and not affect the rideability/drive of the bike? Is this common for pipes to come a little loose?=20 Could it be the toolkit under the rear seat? Mine always rattles = around, even when strapped in. 4.) Drove way to smoothly. Yep. 5.) Was REALLY Easy to Ride, at any speed. Yep, sweet spot is 90mph, IMO. 6.) I put the paperwork in motion, am I crazy? No, but check out the bugs first. Matt Ashland, KY R11RSL 900 SP tm (dickhead)(nonsensical poster)(lover of chocolate, dressing in womens underwear, and parrokeets, not necessarily in that order!) From Paul or Voni Glaves Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 20:42:19 -0500 (CDT) Subject: BMW: R1100 Head Torque Frank, You asked about torquing the heads on an R1100. The installation specification for the R1100 heads is to tighten the fasteners as follows: 1. Tighten the nuts on the studs to 20 NM 2. Using a degree wheel - tighten each nut 90 degrees more 3. Using a degree wheel - tighten each nut 90 degrees more 4. Tighten the M10 screw to 40NM 5. Tighten the M6 screws to 9NM I seriously doubt that tightening the fasteners will cure a head gasket leak. Check the valve cover gasket, cam port o ring, and filler o rings (both inner and outer) first. Make sure the seepage is at the joint between the cylinder and the head before you disturb the head fasteners. As an aside, but related, the R11 valve covers are supposed to be installed oil free, clean, and dry. Otherwise, they will weep oil from where already oily. Hope this helps! Paul Glaves From MTCollNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 09:06:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: BMW: Re: BMW R1100RT New owner observations In a message dated 97-09-10 12:40:31 EDT, you write: My quibbles are all minor, as is my wish list, and hopefully some will be addressed in future redesigns. Your observations are all sound, in my opinion, but I think you left out a few things. While I've become used to the turn signals, I wish they'd stuck with the older style of one lever for both signals. Just a little more convenient. Being forced to lock and unlock the side cases to do anything with 'em is a bit of a pain. There's a fix for it on the tech page, but why do we have to bother with it at all? Service accessibility leaves a lot to be desired. Why couldn't they give you access to the bypass screw on the left side, too? Why can't you take off the left foot panel like you can the right? Why in HELL did they bury the fuel filter? OK, I'm done. All things considered, there's not another bike on this planet I'd rather have. I never get tired of just looking at it; it's the most gorgeous piece of iron I've ever seen. And riding it? Best thing I know how to do with my clothes on. Michael Colloton Atlanta From kulowcNoSpam@NoSpamindiana.edu (Carl Kulow) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 10:12:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: BMW: R1100 Manual - Last Chance! My inbox crashed and I lost many requests for the manual. So if you have not received your copy, request again to me and I'll get a Word 6.0 .doc attached file to you. I'm leaving Tuesday for Fontana so I need any requests by Monday morning. Another alternative is as posted below by Mark Ketchum: When Carl Kulow posted his message that Edition 2 of the R1100 Maintenance Manual was complete, I offered to assist him in its distribution. Little did I know . . . The assistance I am providing is to have several file-format versions of the document available for downloading from my personal website. So now, instead of emailing Carl to ask him to send you a copy, you can go to my site and get the manual in any one of four file formats: MS Word 7 ".doc" file (exactly what Carl sent to me) Adobe Acrobat Portable Document ".pdf" file Rich Text Format ".rtf" file Plain Text ".txt" file These should give most Presidents enough options to be able to open and print the file. I made the file conversions from Carl's .doc file myself, so blame me (not Carl) if there's something wrong with them. The doc and pdf files print the best; the others are there to provide file-import options. Most of the file types are self explanatory; if you can use them, you'll know what they are. You can get an Adobe Acrobat viewer - printer for just about any operating system at http://www.adobe.com The .txt file has no line breaks except at paragraphs, so it should be importable into just about anything; it doesn't look very pretty when you view it from your browser, though. If anyone cares to provide me with the file in some other common format, I can put that up for downloading as well. Carl mentioned that someone else is working on an html version . . . To reach these files, you can go to my website (the URL is in my signature) and follow the fairly obvious links, or else use one of the following URLs directly: http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/BMWmc/R1100.doc (Word) http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/BMWmc/R1100.pdf (Adobe) http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/BMWmc/R1100.rtf (Rich Text) http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/BMWmc/R1100.txt (Plain Text) With a 28.8 modem, downloads of any one of these files should take just a few minutes, depending on 'net traffic. Please let me know if you have any trouble with the downloads or with the files. As I told Carl, "I'll do what I can to help". - ------------------------------------------------------------- Carl Kulow kulowcNoSpam@NoSpamindiana.edu Bloomington, Indiana From "Baxter NAO02, John P" Date: Sun, 14 Sep 1997 23:40:56 -0400 Subject: BMW: TwinMax Synchronizer The following excerpt was from an earlier post I made to Anthony Toglia: - ----------------------------- "Also, since precision synching my throttle bodies with the electronic TwinMax, I am experiencing a totally new world of smoothness and response over the entire operating range, and gas mileage went up from 41 mpg avg to 46. No servicing dealer on my Roadster (3 different dealers) has ever come even close to this level of synching and the resultant smoothness. Now I can really feel what the BMW engineers designed into this machine!!! It continues to amaze me after a week, the total feeling of engine precision and smoothness is so enhanced. Such small adjustments to the bypass screws and right throttlebody cable makes a whopping difference. Maybe I should bring it (the TwinMax) and some wrenches and do a Dumb-Dumb School throttle body synch session at the Fontana Rally. My clock now reads 28.9 K and I have a new rear Battlax tire in the living room for the Sep 25th Level 2 Superbike school at Watkins Glen." - --------------------------------- At the request of a few folks I will briefly describe the TwinMax unit for the benefit of others who may be interested. The TwinMax is an electronic differential depression gauge. Housed in a case about 5"x3"x1-1/2", it has an illuminated "null" meter, a zero knob and a sensitivity knob, two clear plastic vacuum hoses with rubber reducers to fit throttle body/carb nipples, and power supply cord with a BMW male accessory plug so that you can plug it right into the bike. Place the unit on the seat, plug up the vacuum tubes to the throttle bodies, plug the power cord in and you are ready to PRECISION synch the machine. This unit is very, very sensitive, but I don't own mercury carb stix si I can't make a sensitivity comparison between it and stix. When this instrument is set at maximum sensitivity, I swear you can see the needle swing from side to side at idle as each cylinder takes a gulp. The unit is very simple to operate and easy to carry around to tech sessions, no mercury to spill etc. After using this tool to synch my throttlebodies I have achieved a whole new world of smoothness like never before! Turbinelike? Almost! I bought my TwinMax at the Finger Lakes Rally a coupla weeks ago. Frank Cooper, formerly of Capital Cycle, has his own business now and is the U.S. distributor for the made-in-France Twinmax. Price is $99.95 and it can be had with regular battery clips if you want. It can also be used on triples and fours or whatever, just leave one vacuum tube connected to the first cylinder, and synch the rest of the carbs/throttle bodies with the first one. Be sure to tell him that you have a BMW so he can fit the proper rubber reducers (nipple adapters) to your kit. His company (also known as Design Ink) is Adventure Motorcycles Gear, P.O. Box 366, Springfield VA 22150, phone/fax 703-913-7261. All the normal disclaimers apply, I have no interest in his company. Frank will probably have his booth set up at Fontana. Information about the TwinMax may have already been circulated on the lists, but since I'm currently unsubbed, I don't know. Sorry for the bandwidth if this product has already been reviewed. When I heard Joe Katz recommend the unit at the Finger Lakes Oilhead tech session, I went right over and bought one. This is one hell of a product and it gives you one hell of a synch job. See ya'll at Fontana!! John B. Portsmouth, VA 1995 R1100R "Whisper" 1974 R90/6 "Old Black Dog" 60 to 68.4 mph, according to BMW NA. (60 + 6 + 2.4 =3D 68.4). =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB =20 Cracked Rear Frame - RS only Service Bulletin # 2722=09 Issued 10/23/96 On some RS model, the rear frame can not hold the top case or other weight without cracking. If the rear frame is changed, the bike also may need a rear seat change. The following serial numbers have been identified: 031001 (?) - 0312503 There is no mention of replacing the rear frame if it has not cracked. See your dealer. =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB =20 Turn Signal On - all models Service Bulletin # 2758 Issued 11/5/96 If your turn signals remain on after you turn the ignition off, see your dealer. No serial numbers have been identified and no specific parts numbers have been listed, but the problem has been identified on 1995 and earlier models. =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB =20 Low-Friction Throttle Cable - all models Service Bulletin #2748 Issued= 7/3/96 Many oilhead owners have complained of throttle synchronization problems and resultant engine vibration. Part of the problem may be attributed to the original spec sticky throttle cable which made repeatability of throttle body synch difficult. A low friction throttle cable is available free under warranty if your R1100 has under 18,000 miles on it and has a VIN (vehicle identification number) lower than the following number: R1100RS 0312537 R1100GS 0381479 R1100R 6379238 R1100RT 0440499 R850 from start of prod. According to Rob Lentini, any bike with less than 18,000 miles and a VIN under the above should DEFINITELY get this new cable! Frank Stevens, V.P. of BMW NA technical, mentioned this at the 1995 MOA National Rally at Morganton, so any dealer should know about it ! =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB =20 Pinging - all models Service Bulletin # 2738=09 Issued 4/4/96 This information is avaiable at: http://www.teleport.com/~alohamc/si2738.htm =20 =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB Oil Control Valve - R1100/850 Models Service Bulletin #2740=09 Issued 4/3/96 This information is available at:=20 http://www.teleport.com/~alohamc/si2740.htm =20 =20 =AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB= =BB=A7=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB=A7=AB =BB=A5=AB =BB =20 Note: The complete service bulletins have not been reprinted and, in some cases, comments have been added in effort to assist the rider. Please check with a reliable dealer if you have questions, and ask to see their service bulletin so that you have all of the information. I would like to thank Frank Stevens and Daniel E. Browning of BMW NA for recognizing these= problems. Copyright(c) 1997, Stephen Karlan (Dali Meeow) in Miami, FL. = =20 From "Ian Schmeisser" Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:35:17 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW: Leaking Oil Pressure Switch > From: Sobczyk, Joe > STIEFJBNoSpam@NoSpamSWIB.CCMAIL.compuserve.com wrote: > > > >> My '83 R80RT is seeping a little from the oil pressure switch under > >> the left jug. > >> > >> Does anyone know if this can be fixed by retorquing switch or by > >> removing it and reinserting with locktight? Does it have to be > >> replaced? > > t'll be the cheapest BMW part you'll ever buy. Seven bucks, max, and the > problem's fixed. > > Joe Sobczyk I had this stupid part start to leak on me (literally) in Nova Scotia. It started covering my boot in oil...and my Combat Tourers were already waterproofed. Here are a couple of important roadside repair tips: 1) The wrenches in my toolkit didn't fit the sender. And there isn't one $%^&* metric socket in the entire province of Nova Scotia. And it really needs a socket to loosen...it is tough to get an open-end or crescent wrench on it. I borrowed an "english" socket from the gas station to remove mine. 2) no matter how much silicone you put on it, you won't stop it from leaking. The hot set up is to put a sheet metal screw tightly into the hole on the inside to seal it off. Grind off the head of the screw if you have access to a grinder, but it won't interfere with anything else inside the engine if you can't. Of course, your sender is now non-operational, but once it starts leaking it's no good anyway. 3) carry a spare. They are cheap and a real pain to find on the road. Ian Schmeisser Atlanta, GA USA From Don Eilenberger Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 00:10:20 -0400 Subject: BMW: Re: Leaking Oil Pressure Switch Any year Volkswagen Beetle, or any BMW 3.5L engine'd car switch will fit and work exactly the same. Cost is about $7.00 at any car parts place. BTDT - took the one outta my R bike when the one in my old BMW 535i started leaking and I needed the car RIGHT NOW. Replaced it with the VW beetle switch. Pressure is < 7PSI to switch the light on. Big adjustable will take it off/on.. Don't overtighten, the body is aluminum and you can break it off.. Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:21:31 -0700 From: Mark Ketchum Subject: Re: BMW: Oil in carbs Skipper Brown wrote: > >In the past there was a long discussion about putting copper mesh / pan >scrubber / "Chore Girl" in the crankcase vent tube. > >I know I can vent through the airbox and just let it drip out the back... I >want to recover it. > >I need directions - how much - etc. > The tidy way to recover vented oil is with a fluid-condenser and recirculation tube system, like I have on my '78 R100. No drips, no soiled carbs, no puke tank, just oil recirculated back into the crank case. See the (marginal) photo of mine at: http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/motopix/konnie-574x862.JPG Mine was made by Fritz Scherb, who has a shop outside of Munich. If you are interested, I'll dig up his address / tel. Regards, _____________________________________ Mark A. Ketchum http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum Berkeley & San Francisco, California Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 08:58:09 -0400 From: Rick Leasure Subject: Re: BMW: R1100RS At 04:56 PM 9/29/97 -0700, Greg Gagliano wrote: > >I sold my '88 R100RS 4 years ago when my first child was born (I had to >learn how to do the "Dad thing" and kids don't come with owner's >manuals). Now I'm ready to get back into riding and would like to get >informed opinions and experiences (good and bad) about the R1100RS. >Here's what I discovered so far after my 4 year hiatus from >motorcycling, but feel free to correct anything here: > >1) The new flat twin is no longer called a "Super Boxer" but rather an >"Oilhead". Fascinating. Oil cooled heads.... > >2) The RS1100RS is no longer available with full lowers (R1100RSL). >Does anyone know why? The lowers certainly give a cleaner look to the >bike. > Speculation is fire. Seems the lowers would overheat during loooonng idling periods and catch fire. >3) The RS and RT wheels are soft and prone to bending and Papa BMW >isn't covering them under warranty or redesigning them. This isn't very >encouraging. Seems I heard the same thing about the R65LS wheels some >years ago. > Yup, keep em filled to max pressure. >4) There was a clutch problem that has been fixed since last year. > Haven't heard this one, expect on the very early 94's (which, of course, I have. ) >5) The EFI throttle body sychronizing seems to be a bit of nightmare >(though no worse then setting the bias on a tube amplifier). Still, the >procedures I've seen on the Internet don't seem to be "factory methods" >though they appear to work well... are the dealer service techs doing >this the "right" way? > Haven't seen the Internet procedures, but I have had three different mechanics synch my 'bodies and none of them have gotten it right every time. When it is done right there is very little surge, when done wrong......well you take it back and get it done right! >6) I test rode a '94 R1100RS in Avon, Colorado and it performed very >well, but... that was just a short test drive. Two things I noticed >during that ride were the clunky transmission and the "lean" surge at >around 3500 rpm or so. > If it's got the clunky tranny it's an early 94, maybe even the so called "beta" bike. Like I said, I have one of these bikes, I love it to death, but it does have, shall we say, some serious "character". >That's about all I know so far. > >Thanks in advance for your assistance! > >Regards, > >Greg Gagliano >Contributing Editor >20th Century Guitar Magazine > >(yes, guitars and motorcycles go together quite well) > > Rick Leasure, CNE Sprint Paranet 800-739-0917 (Pager) ********************************************************** On-site at Cigna Dental in Plantation, FL Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 08:01:00 -0400 (EDT) From: proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Subject: BMW: Last Edition S Bikes Fellow Presidents, This is mainly directed at Jeff Roessler, but I thought more people may be interested also. Jeff contacted me with a question about the Last Edition BMW's offered in 1984, specifically the R100CS. He is in the process of buying one and wanted to know if there was such a model as the R100S Last Edition. Well I said, to the best of my knowlegde, that all of the 84 S bikes were sold as R100CS's, only the second time that BMW had used that moniker (the first time was in 1981. These bikes had *real* R100CS SN's where the 84's had R100 SN's.)! Jeff pointed me to the September 96 MOA, and said there was a Staintune ad that showed a R100S Last Edition! I ASSUMED that someone had just massaged a LE R100 and added an S to the sidecover. Well I dug that issue out last night, and sure enough there it was! So now the plot thickens. It was time to go to the archives! I only have one Last Edition Brochure, but the answer was there, right on the back! There was a little asterick* next to the R100CS and *R100S*!! R100S? What you talking bout Willis??? The asterick pointed me to this little gem: R100CS is designated as R100S in California. Models for California will vary slightly in color! Well as Johnny Carson used to say, "I did not know that!" Seeing that I am from the East coast, the chance of me seeing a California R100S LE, is pretty slim. Why BMW chose to do this remains a mystery. Are there any LE owners from California out there? How does the color scheme vary from the other LE's? Good work Jeff!! The complete list. Last Edition BMW's Model Quantity Equipment R100 75 Saddle Bags, Electric clock and voltmeter R100CS 175 Saddle Bags, Sport and Dual seats R100S* R100RS 250 Saddle Bags, Sport and Dual seats R100RT 240 Fully Equipped * R100CS is designated as R100S in California. Models for California will vary slightly in color! Cheers, Phactory Phil aka Phil Rose proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 11:51:10 -0500 From: Cal Swallow Subject: Re: BMW: R1100RS At 04:56 P 9/29/97 -0700, Greg G. wrote: > >I sold my '88 R100RS 4 years ago when my first child was born (I had to >learn how to do the "Dad thing" and kids don't come with owner's >manuals). Now I'm ready to get back into riding and would like to get >informed opinions and experiences (good and bad) about the R1100RS. >Here's what I discovered so far after my 4 year hiatus from >motorcycling, but feel free to correct anything here: > >1) The new flat twin is no longer called a "Super Boxer" but rather an >"Oilhead". Fascinating. Mebbe it should now be "Super Duper Boxer". >2) The RS1100RS is no longer available with full lowers (R1100RSL). >Does anyone know why? The lowers certainly give a cleaner look to the >bike. Agreed. That's why I bought one. >3) The RS and RT wheels are soft and prone to bending and Papa BMW >isn't covering them under warranty or redesigning them. This isn't very >encouraging. Seems I heard the same thing about the R65LS wheels some >years ago. Don't know about the past models. I have been warned about mine and keep the pressure NoSpam@NoSpam 37F / 41-42R I have tried 38F and it is my absolute maximum as the steering is dicey above that. >4) There was a clutch problem that has been fixed since last year. My RSL has 33,000+ miles w/now clutch problems yet. >5) The EFI throttle body sychronizing seems to be a bit of nightmare >(though no worse then setting the bias on a tube amplifier). Still, the >procedures I've seen on the Internet don't seem to be "factory methods" >though they appear to work well... are the dealer service techs doing >this the "right" way? Dunno. Mine has a "slight" surge most of the time. Sometimes none, sometimes pretty irritating. As the bike is still under factory warranty, I will wait before I mess around with the TPS. Switched to the Champions and noticed an improvement. Use the Champions or Autolites. Whichever is on sale. Got mine for $.99ea. That damn miser Lentini finds the Autolites even cheaper. >6) I test rode a '94 R1100RS in Avon, Colorado and it performed very >well, but... that was just a short test drive. Two things I noticed >during that ride were the clunky transmission and the "lean" surge at >around 3500 rpm or so. See above re: surge. The "clunky transmission" is part of the BMW "character". It gets better after 15,000 miles or so. Also, as you get used to it, your technique will automatically improve and adapt. Mine is very smooth except for some 1>2 and 2>1 shifts. Shifting slowly can cause "clunking". Shifting briskly will go a long way toward eliminating the problem. >That's about all I know so far. > >Thanks in advance for your assistance! > >Regards, > >Greg Gagliano Bottom line: I love my R11 and intend to keep it for many miles. The only glitch in this plan might be called "R1200 RSL". Time will tell. Just go ahead and buy one and start enjoying it. YOU WILL LIKE IT. Warts and all. "You know you are brave if you eat organically grown fruit in the dark". CS '97 NOTICE: Due to inflation, my $.02 worth is now going for $.03. Cal Swallow Quincy, IL MOA # 65821 1994 R1100 RSL Turkisgrun Met. (fastest color) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 16:59:19 -0600 From: "Rob Lentini" Subject: BMW: GS Intake Tubes installed on my RS Here's a preliminary report on the GS intake tubes I have installed on my RS. You may recall Anthonie (in Europe) reported serious mid-range power improvements simply by installing these runners (manifolds) from the airbox to the FI throttle bodies. He reported: The german magazine Das Motorrad did an experiment with the R1100RS: they fitted the tubes from the airbox to the throttle body from the GS/R model. Apparently those are smaller in diameter then the one from the RS. Anyway, the power curve changed to a much more smooth power delivery mid range and especially around 4000 rpm. Top torque was now up to 106 Nm/5400 revs against 102Nm/5500 revs stock and top power was down to 87 HP/6500 revs against stock 91ps/7100 revs. Below I give the figures for power and torque, stock and modified: revs torque new torque stock power new power stock 2000 86 87 24 25 2500 85 86 29 30 3000 92 89 41 39 3500 90 89 44 43 4000 92 83 52 47 4500 96 96 62 62 5000 102 99 73 72 5500 106 102 82 80 6000 101 96 86 81 6500 92 92 87 87 7000 86 91 86 90 7500 79 85 84 90 I installed the tubes yesterday with little difficulty. I DID have to remove both throttle bodies from the intake spigots to make the job easy and straightforward, which necessitated a re-synch (but it wasn't off my much if at all) and "zero=zero" was not affected. Initial impressions (and PLEASE give me time to more fully evaluate!): 1. Cleaner, smoother, crisper throttle response 2. DEFINITELY more low to mid-range power! 3. Engine revs more quickly 4. More intake "honk" noise (but GS riders would not note the change) Price: $33.39 for both "manifolds" as they are called. Please give me some time to evaluate this mod in various regimes including commuting, touring, sport riding, and top end. I'll write up a complete descriptive article if warranted. I like mid-range "grunt." Seems there's a simple solution! regards, Rob Lentini '94 R1100RS Tucson AZ H 520-790-8865 W 520-295-6411 AMA, ARCC, BMWRA, IOC, MSF Director, BMW Motorcycle Owners of America I WILL RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 21:05:28 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Subject: Re: BMW: Oilheads in their "Golden Years" Matt Thornbury wrote: > > Greetings all, > > A friend of mine has a '94 R11RSL w/80k+ on the odometer. He wants to know > if there are any key items that should be watched over closely for > failure/replacement in the miles to come. Cam chains? Tensioners? > Etc.... > > I know there are a few hi mileage Oilheads out there, anyone have any > feedback on this one? Since mine is just now over 40k, I can't advise him. > > As an aside, how long will the pistons/rings average? When they go, do you > just replace the rings? > > Reply to me and/or the list, > > TIA, > Matt Thornbury > Ashland, KY > R11RSL > 900 SP I suggest you contact Paul Glaves (p_vglavesNoSpam@NoSpamcjnetworks.com). Voni's R11 lost a timing chain tensioner rail at something in the neighborhood of 156,000. Paul's doing the rebuild and says things inside look great, includeing the factory crosshatch pattern in the cylinders. These are good machines, built to last. - -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:27:30 -0500 From: garymarshNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Gary McCray) Subject: BMW: The first season on my 1997 R1100RT Prezzies, Late last winter when I was contemplating trading in my 1989 K100RS Special for a 1997 R1100RT, I really appreciated reading all the complaints on the list about surging, ABS flashing, bending rims, sidestand ignition switch failures, and all the other stuff that I promptly *forgot about* during the 250 mile ride home from Gina's BMW on 3/1/97. Since then, I have put 13,097 miles on the oil head and there's one thing that really bothers me. THE SEAT SUCKS!!! That's why, immediately following the Falling Leaf Rally (I gave it a chance), I boxed it up and sent it out to Russell for an overhaul. So, since now's the time when a lot of guys might be starting to think about a new mount for next year, I thought I'd review the events of my first season on the R1100RT. I broke the bike in (mostly) according to the book. I won't tell about any of the things I did that may void the warrantee, but rest assured that I didn't, don't, and won't baby the bike. Most of my riding is long distance, 2-up, higher speed (above 70 on the 2 lanes, above 85 on the 4 lanes). Combined weight of passenger and driver is about 320 lbs. We carry 22 lbs on the luggage rack when camping (rallies & such), full saddlebags and a multivario 3 tank bag. My wife likes her Reynolds backrest. I took the bike back to Gina's for the 600 mile service, watched closely, and did the 6,000 mile and the 12,000 mile myself. Piece of cake (after all the fiberglass is off). Other than being checked and slightly adjusted at the 600 mile service, no adjustments have been made to the throttle bodies, cables, etc. I have the equipment to make the adjustments, but Mr. Underwood (one of the best BMW dealers ever) always said, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." On the way home from Gina's on the day I picked up the bike, the engine oil level dropped from the top of the window to the bottom. At 6,000 miles, all the stuff about the Autolite spark plug was flying around the list, so, since I had a couple of spare bucks (literally), I decided to try a pair. I thought the plugs made a difference, so I left them in. We went to the MOA National in Texas, 2-up. THE SEAT SUCKS! No problems with the bike. At 8,500 miles, I took 54 hours to ride 750 miles, attend the Rolling Broccoli Rally, and ride 750 miles home. THE SEAT SUCKS! Bike ran great! On September 19, with 10,000 miles on the clock, we left on a 2,500 mile trip to Florida & back (cruising between 85 & 95 on the slab), 2-up. THE SEAT SUCKS! On that trip the engine oil level dropped from the top of the window to the bottom. I didn't measure *exactly*, but from the top of the window to the bottom is about 8/10 of a pint. Oil consumption decreased steadily over the first 10,000 miles. I expect it to decrease even more in the next few thousand miles. I removed the original Metzler tires just before the Florida trip (10,000 miles). No wear bars showing yet. The rear had another thousand or so left in it and the front had quite a bit more than that, but was cupping pretty badly, so I replaced them both with Dunlop D205's. I like 'em. I run 40 lbs. of air in the front and 42 in the rear (solo and 2-up). So, that's about it. The bike handles *way* better in the twisties than my old K100RS and is more comfortable on the long haul. We did many 600 - 800 mile days, 2-up, on the old RS. We've done a few on the new bike (750 in one day coming back from Florida). The new Bike's better, but did I mention ......THE SEAT SUCKS!? GMc <> << Macarena Red Metallic '97 R1100RT>> <> Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 19:05:32 EST From: davidebsmithNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com Subject: BMW: Flaming Oilheads All this talk about the headers on Oilheads getting hot enough to glow, melt the lowers, start the bike on fire, etc., made me remember that one of the features of the R1100RTP Police bike was "cooling fans." It would make sense that a police version of this bike would need extra cooling to sit at idle for long periods without melting down. My question is, are these fans fittable to the non police models? Does anybody have a part number & a price and any idea of how much of a pain it would be to do this? Lets hope the fans aren't made by the same subcontractor as the K12! - ------------------------------------------------- David E.B. Smith, Chicago, Illinois davidebsmithNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com or 74017.3363NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com 1997 R1100RT Sine(us) Blue "No name" 1992 Subaru Legacy Wagon "But it's also a Boxer"