From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 9 18:32:54 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing -bs Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 17:13:17 -0500 (CDT) From: Frank Glamser To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K-Bike Heat Guard Modification Reply-To: Frank Glamser A couple of months ago I installed a set of heat guards on my K75RT. Initial impressions were all positive. Over short distances and at moderate speeds (<60) they greatly reduced heat around the legs. Recently I took a trip which involved sustained speeds over 70, and I discovered a great deal of heat around the inner thighs which flowed upward into the air pocket behind the fairing. During stops I noticed the sidecovers were extremely hot. The K-Guards themselves were not as hot. The higher speeds apparently produced more heat and more air pressure above the engine which was partially trapped by the K-guards. Upon returning home I noticed the right side guard fitted flush with the downtube at the rear of the guard, allowing no air escape. Since this area is behind the lower leg, I trimmed (hacksaw) about 3/8 of an inch from the trailing edge of the guard to leave a space between the guard and the downtube. I also trimmed the bottom to eliminate the step down cut and to open the alternator area. The left side already had space near the downtube, so no change was made. Now the sidecovers are not so hot and the heat flow in front of the lower downtube is greatly increased. There is much less heat coming from under the tank and seat. If you are going to try this, write me directly for a few more details. Frank Glamser Hattiesburg, Mississippi 92K75RT From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 09:18:56 1997 From: steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 06:57:01 -0600 Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. To: "Gerald St.Hilaire" Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: R1100 Engine Guards Reply-To: steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com Gerald St.Hilaire wrote: > > I recently traded my '87 R65 for a '96 leftover R1100 RS. My dealer has a > set of BMW engine guards, but they looked a little wimpy. Tonight I dropped > the bike in the garage, in the dark. It went down slowly, I'm not in the > same weight class, and scuffed the right valve cover. I think just where the > engine guard would have been. I'm having second thoughts about the guards > but am wondering if there are other aftermarket guards which are better. > > I appreciate the imput, thanks. Did the exact same thing the first night I brought my '93 RS home from the dealer with 246 miles on it. Rained hard for the last 125 miles home and when I went to pop it up on the center stand, my foot slipped off the centerstand pad. When that happens, especially with these R1100's, you're already past the center of gravity and lifting/pushing away from you. No way are you going to be able to hold the bike up. In my case, it started a three bike domino fall into my sidcar rig. My bodywork suffered the only scars (on this bike - the other two are a different story %^{), but if the bike had hit the ground, cylinder guards would have been worth the money. I don't know of anyone that makes an aftermarket. Also, the above is the reason I made "The Woman" start selling "Centerstand Pad Covers" (pretty cool marketing name, huh?). It's a square of 3M Marine Grade non-skid, self-adhesive tape. If BMW had the foresight to not make the damn pad of smooth flat steel, or put something on it to make it non-skid, my bike never would have fallen. BTW, that non-skid is available in most boat shops and RV centers. Wherever you get it - get some. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 09:32:25 1997 From: "David R. Norton" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 06:06:54 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: K centerstand Reply-To: "David R. Norton" > Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 22:30:00 -0400 > From: Don Eilenberger > Subject: BMW: K centerstand - correction! > PS: Still waiting to hear if the straight leg stand will fit in > place of the curved leg stand! Why? The straight leg stand is known for sinking into the asphalt or dirt and dumping the bike onto the side mirror which then cracks the main fairing section. Repairs = $3,000.00. One of our local club members is still sobbing about this two years after his new K1100LT fell over. Butt, I really question if you or anyone wants the straight leg stand, unless modified with larger "footpads". David R. Norton Phoenix, Arizona USA From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 12:08:40 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing -bs Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:36:59 -0500 (CDT) From: Frank Glamser To: Geoff Adams Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K-Bike Heat Guard Reply-To: Frank Glamser Hi Geoff, My understanding is that they are no longer being manufactured, but I could be mistaken. I got mine two months ago from A&S BMW in California. Sam Lepore spotted them on the wall and posted the info on this list. Their numbers are 1-800-689-9893 and 1-916-726-7334. The manufacturer is (was ?) Husky Mountain, P.O. Box 593, Kingston, TN 37763, ph.1-615-376-4968. I've been told the address and phone number are a dead end, but you may have better luck. The product is definitely worth the hunt. Let me know if you have any luck. Frank Glamser Hattiesburg, Mississippi '92 K75RT BMW RoM On Mon, 9 Jun 1997, Geoff Adams wrote: > Are the K heat shields still available? I'd like to have the source. > Thanks. > > Geoff Adams '85KRS MOA 22753 TBC > Arlington, TX IBMWR BMWDFW NTCOF > tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net LSBMWR > > "We are confronted with insurmountable opportunities!" -Pogo. > ____________________________________________________________________________ > > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 14:20:44 1997 From: Tom Nash To: "'bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'" Subject: BMW: Re: 85K side covers Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 10:26:12 -0700 Reply-To: Tom Nash A couple of us short guys have a constant problem with the side covers = on the K-bikes popping loose. The length of my legs (or lack thereof) = forces the inside of my thigh to rest against the side covers when = stopped, popping the front of the side cover off the pin. This happened = with my '85 K100RT, and it happens with my present '94 K1100RS. The way I solved the problem was to drill two tiny holes in the bases of = the side cover tabs that grip the pin, install a short section of = aircraft safety wire through one hole, make a loop of safety wire that = goes around behind the pin, and insert the end of the wire into the = other hole. The end result is a completely closed circle of side cover = and safety wire to slip over the pin. You re-install the side cover by = slipping the wire over the pin while sliding the cover forward, and then = snapping the middle and read attach points in place. Now, when my leg presses against the side cover, the safety wire keeps = it in place. The only downside to this is that if you take your bike in for service, = you have to remember to tell the mechanic that the safety wire is there. = Otherwise, he/she may grab the side cover and yank, with the risk of = breaking either the cover or the fairing-mounted pin. I usually just = tape a post-it note to each side cover to remind him. If your tabs are broken, there may still be enough tab material left to = allow this safety wire installation. Tom Nash '94 K1100RS San Francisco From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 22:00:26 1997 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 04:35:10 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: re: K vibrations Cc: Clif Lines Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Clif asks: >Subject: BMW: re: K vibrations > >Thanks to everyone for the info on vibrations. While I was changing grips, >I noticed a lead >bar in the handle bars for vibration damping, is that standard on an '85 K? >I was thinking of >a Bobs Wrist-rest before I found the lead bar, do I have to remove the whole >bar or just >enough of the lead to get the "rest" in, and another weight on the other side? >Clif, > Clif Lines http://stripe.colorado.edu/~lines/clif.html > Boulder, Co. Very much non-standard. I'd actually be interested if you tried riding the bike with/without it and report back on if it makes any difference. As far as Bob's Wrist Rest - I'm sure it's a fine device, butt, if you can find it - the BMW throttle lock screw performs the same function at a somewhat lesser cost.. mine was about $7. If you look on the bottom of the throttle grip housing - there should be a small plastic plug. Pull out the plug and a threaded hole is revealed.. I know the name of the throttle lock screw was changed last year, and that it became somewhat harder to find. It is a knurled knob, with a fine pitch threaded portion (which happens to be exactly the size to fit into the hole) and a teflon end.. you adjust to the amount of throttle drag you want. I have mine set so I can release the throttle for at least 30-40 seconds without the speed dropping (it will slowly drop a bit after that).. this allows: 1. Removing right hand from bars to zip zippers, do things and stretch a bit 2. Removes a lot (all actually) of the force required to hold the throttle open. Without it, I'm in pain after about an hour. With it 7-8 hours is NO problem. 3. Makes riding the bike smoother. The K engine winds down BIG time when the throttle is released, without some drag, I tend to release it too quickly, making the bike lurch on the suspension a bit. With it, I can do smooth transitions.. YMMV, but everyone I know with one sez the same thing. If you decide to go with the Wrist Rest, I'm sure hacking a lump of the lead off isn't going to change whatever effect it is having. Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 00:43:10 1997 From: jkfletchNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 23:22:58 -0700 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: bmw-K100RS Fairing Reply-To: jkfletchNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com Bjorn Ramsvik writes: > > I have experienced a lot of wind noise and buffeting on my K 100RS. What > about after market shields. Bjorn, I put the Aeroflow "Aeroscreen" for the K100RS on my bike last summer and it eliminated wind noise buffeting etc. I don't like the looks of it for full time use, but since its velcro'ed on, you can remove it in one quick pull. I usually only use it for long rides or when I'm carrying a passenger. Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD 88 K75RS (Autobahn) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 13:54:57 1997 X-Authentication-Warning: arctic.st.usm.edu: fglamser owned process doing -bs Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 12:18:11 -0500 (CDT) From: Frank Glamser To: Don Eilenberger Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, Clif Lines Subject: Re: BMW: re: K vibrations Reply-To: Frank Glamser Even more convenient is the Flip-a-lever,IMO. Frank Glamser Hattiesburg, Mississippi '92 K75RT BMW RoM From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 19:31:45 1997 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 19:05:08 -0500 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Sean Reid Subject: BMW: More about Baker Built Reply-To: Sean Reid Several people asked for details on the Air Wings. They actually look fine in dark tint and go fairly well with the lines of either the KRT or KRS fairing. Actually, I'd have them even if they were incredibly ugly because I hate being slow-broiled while riding. The company can be reached at 800-451-9464. My other RT suggestion is to have Charlie at Parabellum (or someone else) build an 8"-10" tall "summer shield" - low enough to put your helmet in "clean air" (in terms of noise). The Air Wings combined with the low shield (which also looks fine) make a huge improvement and the bike may even handle better w/o the big windshield pushing on it way above its cg. Good luck with the experimenting... Sean Reid sreidNoSpam@NoSpamsover.net Northeastern Motorcycle Tours New England, the Adirondacks and the Canadian Maritimes http://www.ariasoft.com/mctours From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 19:49:22 1997 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 18:26:58 -0500 From: corkreed To: Sean Reid Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: More about Baker Built X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: corkreed Sean Reid wrote: > Several people asked for details on the Air Wings. They actually > look > fine in dark tint and go fairly well with the lines of either the KRT > or > KRS fairing. Actually, I'd have them even if they were incredibly > ugly > because I hate being slow-broiled while riding. The company can be > reached at 800-451-9464. My other RT suggestion is to have Charlie > at > Parabellum (or someone else) build an 8"-10" tall "summer shield" - > low > enough to put your helmet in "clean air" (in terms of noise). The Air > > Wings combined with the low shield (which also looks fine) make a huge > > improvement and the bike may even handle better w/o the big windshield > > pushing on it way above its cg. Good luck with the experimenting... > Sean Reid sreidNoSpam@NoSpamsover.net > Northeastern Motorcycle Tours > New England, the Adirondacks and the Canadian Maritimes > http://www.ariasoft.com/mctours To all. The air wings are great. I bought a pair for my k-bike at the national in Madison Ind. What was it 87 or 88. I now have them on my third bike!!! Try 'em. Also at that time there was a lot of experimenting on running the return line for the gas thru a cooler. One duuude at that rally told me he had reduced the tank temp. by 67 degrees. If it works, don't knock it :-]]] Respectfully submitted, Corky -- new net From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 13 01:56:08 1997 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 22:45:00 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. To: John Moore Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Another reason I like my K-bike (& a question) Reply-To: Mark Gensman John Moore wrote: > > I forgot to mention on an earlier posting that > my 87 KRS "fits" my 6'5" frame -- it has a > nice long wheelbase. > > Which brings up my question: > > I was toying with the idea of an LT. When I > sat on one, I found out that my knees touched > the back edge of the fairing! Any other tall > folks on the list have that problem? How did > you deal with it? If I have a custom seat made > -- with the riders "dish" set back 1.5" -- it will > probably fit me, but cramp SWMBO. Any > solution, or am I destined to ride the RS for > life? > > thanks > > john I had the same problem on the demo of the 95 K1100 I bought last October. At the same time I sat on the owners 91 K and really liked the seat better. I ordered mine with a 91 seat and it sits farther back than the stock 95 seat. I now have a brand new stock 95 seat for sale with 5 whold miles on it. -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 16 20:01:17 1997 Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 15:30:23 -0400 From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) Subject: BMW: BMW- K75RS conversion, long term test report (short) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) Its been about a year since I did the conversion on the K75. Putting that K100RS fairing on the bike was the best thing I ever did. The "S" fairing just wasm't enough protection and I wasn't ready for the RT. Having the versatility of using the removeable Aeroflow windshield really make the bike a sweet touring ride on long trips. If theres any interest, I can post the pros and cons of the conversion and some of the details of what it takes to do this mod. In the mean time, I can't think of any reason to part with a K75 with an RS fairing. Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD 88 K75RS (Autobahn) moa/ra/ama/bmwbmw/k-whiners From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 17 12:44:56 1997 Date: 17 Jun 1997 09:53:39 -0500 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: Charcoal can removal To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Cc: "Bob" Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" Bob Morrow wrote: >I've heard that removing the fuel canister on the R1100 is desireable. >Is there anything to be gained by doing this, other than removing a >rust-prone eyesore from the bike? Also, my GS has what appears to be >an electrically powered valve connected to one of the three vent hoses >on the canister. What does this do? That valve just lets the fuel vapor into the cylinders when the bike is running. I left it installed and plugged in....while removing the rubber hoses to both sides. Removing the can is simple: buy a couple of K bike vacuum plugs from the dealer (we haven't found anything that holds up as well as those) and plug the throttle body vacuum taps with them, detach the fuel tank breather line from the canister and route it down near the footpeg with the other rubber lines, and remove the extraneous hoses. Jon Diaz From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 18 08:59:19 1997 Date: 18 Jun 1997 07:22:56 -0500 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: RE: BMW: Charcoal can removal To: "Christopher S Stoddard" Cc: "BMW Mailing List" Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" Chris Stoddard asked: >You didn't answer the full question, Jon. Why disconnect/remove the >thing in the first place? Some folks on the R1100 list had trouble with them plugging up and stopping the bike cold (we won't get into the story about the guy who watched the sides of his fuel tank get sucked in from internal vacuum :)), so right when I got my RS, I yanked all that stuff, and plugged the taps just like the Canadian R1100's. Jon Diaz From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 00:28:15 1997 Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 21:02:27 -0700 From: Gary Wasserman To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: RE: BMW: Charcoal can removal Reply-To: Gary Wasserman > Chris Stoddard asked: > > >You didn't answer the full question, Jon. Why disconnect/remove the > >thing in the first place? > > Some folks on the R1100 list had trouble with them plugging up and > stopping the bike cold (we won't get into the story about the guy > who watched the sides of his fuel tank get sucked in from internal > vacuum :)), so right when I got my RS, I yanked all that stuff, and > plugged the taps just like the Canadian R1100's. > > Jon Diaz > Frankly there is also the related issue of having a variable flow through the deteriorating carbon confuse the fuel injection, the issue of the same effect making synchronization less predictable, and also the questionable effect of carbon dust getting sucked into your engine. On the surface it seems that the carbon dust would seem to be something you wouldn't want in your intake mix. And of course there is the fact that in exchange for removing a gadget that does demonstrably *NOTHING* you get a much nicer looking bike! :-) For the gruesome details of carbon cannister removal you can check out http://www.teleport.com/~grw/cannister_horn.html -- ================================================ Gary Wasserman Portland, OR mailto:grwNoSpam@NoSpamteleport.com http://www.teleport.com/~grw "A completely irrational attraction to BMW bikes" BMWMOA, BMWRA, GSBMWRA, AMA, MSF, DoD#216, etc. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 05:34:44 1997 Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 09:16:27 -0600 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Jim Normandeau Subject: BMW: re; Radar detector wiring Reply-To: Jim Normandeau >Mike Cornett: >>So where would you wire in your radar detector? I'd rather not use the >>accessory outlet if I don't have to. The V-1 comes with a nice direct line >>that could be crimped onto something. > >I have mine powered off the circuit for the parking light. > > tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org > Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> > >------------------------------ There is also an accessory wire ( i think it's brown) under you fuel tank, where all the other wires are clumped together. look in your manual it will tell you which one. I have my det. plugged into this. It's only powered when the bike is on. Jim James E. Normandeau UNAVCO 3340 Mitchell Lane Boulder, CO 80302 Phone:303-497-8008/8040 Fax: 303-497-8028 Web: www.unavco.ucar.edu From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 24 09:18:58 1997 Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 09:04:48 -0400 From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) Subject: Re[2]: BMW: K75RS conversion To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) > Tim Spencer wrote: I came across a K100 fairing and heard that they could be put on a K75 but that it was not done very often. The project appealed to me. I started encountering challenges before long. How do I get the trim between the tank and fairing (in front of the knees) to fit a K75 tank? > Tim, To get the K100RS knee pad trim pieces to fit nicely around the K75 tank you can either cut and file them to match, or you can change the tank. I opt'ed to use a K100 tank so that every thing would match up. This is an expensive choice but it fits perfectly and the fuel pump etc are interchangeable. You can buy a used tank and have it painted with the rest of the parts. Just don't get a '85 tank because the mounts are different, all the other years will fit. Jon Diaz, who also did this conversion, filed his knee pads to fit. This is somewhat difficult since the knee pads have a metal core, but its a hell of a lot cheaper (and I'm still trying to sell my old K75 tank). You might ask him how it turned out. > How do I bolt the K100 fairing the the K75 engine? Etc, etc. Use the K100RS lower engine mounts. Its a perfect match and the K75 engine has the corresponding threads in the block for the bolts. The upper fairing is mounted to the steering head with a K100RS main bracket. This also bolts right on, but make sure you re-attach the fluid block screws in the right place for the steering dampener. The K100RS fairing pretty much bolts right on to the K75 with the exception of the two upper brackets between the upper fairing and the lower side pieces. These parts you have to make, but don't fret. The brackets don't really take on much of a load and I've determined they really only provide a stiffness for vibration. I merely bent some metal strips which I bolted to the two K75S upper mounts that attach to the frame. There is some electrical splicing to do for the integrated turn signals and Fiamm horns. You need to get a K100RS wiring harness for this. This is a short harness with a few wires which interface in the fairing area, no big deal. Routing of the wiring is critical so not to interfere with steering control. I plan on writing an article on the whole process, but in the mean time, please ask any questions along the way since you are currently working through this. > Please let me know if you and your RS will be in F'burg next week, I'd like to meet you both! Last minute job duties will prevent me from attending. I will be at the RA rally in Fontana however. Jim Fletcher, Greenbelt MD K75RS (Autobahn) moa/ra/ama/bmwbmw/k-whiners From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 25 13:43:38 1997 Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 09:45:04 -0400 (EDT) From: Jerome Cook To: Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: RADIO for R1100RT?/used or aftermarket? Reply-To: Jerome Cook Crutchfield has a sony that can be installed in the R11RT it has a remote on a cable with most of the functions that you will ever need. there is an article in the latest OIL RAG if you dont belong to the OILHEADS please subscribe. Ill fax you an applicaton its $15 per year We have quarterly newsletters for now. they are excellent. also there is a R1100 mail group Understand that the SONY is not a plug & play. you must connect the wires the old fashioned way. a radio shop would be able to help you. in the DC area Hurleys can install the Sony Speakers are also available from crutchfield if youi order the right part# Infinity kappa DIN cheers jerry cook On Wed, 25 Jun 1997 Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > > Do any of you good folks know of a source for used or aftermarket radios to > fit R1100RTs? BMW NA is VERY proud of theirs! A couple of the bikes that I > am considering lack radios. Thanks in advance. Ben White/Biloxi > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 26 12:23:56 1997 Date: Thu, 26 Jun 1997 10:02:41 -0400 From: "Roy G.Daum" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Aftermarket Radio for R1100RT Reply-To: "Roy G.Daum" Ben you asked about an aftermartket radio for an r1100rt. I have a 96 rt. I purchased a sony am-fm cassett, built a fiberglass holding container (a box). I installed the box inside the fairing pocket. The sony comes with a wired remote switch. I then used the J & M helmet speakers for full face helmets. Wife and I really enjoy the setup. J & M supplies the redio antenae. Sony radio cost about $125. After all the talk about the radio and speaker system by BMW, I chose an aftermarket product. Hope this helps. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 30 08:54:58 1997 From: "LACKO, JOHN, HMR/US" To: "'SMTP:bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'" Subject: BMW: Re: R75/5 VW conversion Date: Mon, 30 Jun 97 08:32:00 EDT Reply-To: "LACKO, JOHN, HMR/US" Avery Frail asks: >Has anyone heard of a VW conversion kit for slash fives? It would >include an engine/gearbox adapter, intake manifolds, exhaust headers, >oil sump extender, motor mounts. >I've more or less purchased such a machine (subject to the obligatory >lien checks etc.) It's very well done, looks factory. I went to see the >bike out of curiosity, expecting to find it tied together with baling wire. Avery, the kit was real, and offered in the 1970's to those die-hard BMW riders who needed just a 'bit' more power than the factory offered. I sent for some literature back around 1975, and at that time kits were offered for the 1955-69 twins, along with /5 & /6 models. There were several different parts & services offered, including the basic trans-to-engine adapter & necessary frame modifications. I just didn't have the heart to permanently modify my R90/6 frame, so I never did the conversion.. I've run across several 55-69 twins that have been converted, but have only heard of but never seen any post-69 bikes done. There can't have been that many done, that's for sure. The kit was made by Willis Engineering out in California, and Roger Willis was the driving force behind the project. The business closed down years ago, but I understand that Roger is still alive and well. Whoever did the changeover on your (future?) bike spent a good deal of money to do it at the time, because unless memory fails me, you could spend anywhere from $600-1,200 on the conversion, depending on how many parts you bought and how much of the work Willis did for you. If it's a Willis adapter, it should have the company name in the part somewhere. I've heard that other people also made engine-to-trans adapters, but Willis was the best available. jl John Lacko lackoNoSpam@NoSpambrwhcc3.hcc.com P.S. I've also heard that the VW conversions threw off so much heat that they were un-rideable during hot Summer days, but can't verify that first-hand! From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 06:50:34 1997 From: Tom Austin To: "'bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'" Cc: "'tsmith2NoSpam@NoSpamwhsun1.wh.whoi.edu'" , "'MTCollNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com'" Subject: BMW: Dual Fiamm Horn Installation on the R1100RT Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 14:52:29 -0700 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: Tom Austin I have had several requests to post a detailed description of how I mounted dual Fiamm horns on my R1100RT. The procedure I used involves hanging both of the new horns off of the stock mounting stud using the brackets that come with the new horns, with an extra hole drilled in them. Detailed instructions for modifying the brackets and completing the installation are presented below. Parts Needed: 1. Fiamm "Sound Master" twin electric horns. Mine were purchased from = a Kragen Auto Parts store in Sacramento, CA for just over $20. 2. 18 gauge wire. 3. Solderless terminal connectors. Tools Needed: 1. 3 mm allen wrench to remove and replace fairing fasteners and under-fairing storage compartment. 2. 4 mm allen wrench used in removing under-fairing storage = compartment. 3. 9 mm wrench to remove plastic covered nut used inside under-fairing storage compartment. 4. Crimping tool/wire cutter/stripper. 5. 13 mm wrench to remove stock horn and reinstall new brackets. 6. 10 mm wrench to install Fiamm horns on new brackets. 7. 5/16 and 1/4 inch drill bits and drill. 8. Grinder or file. Instructions: 1. Remove seat, plastic side cover under handle for lifting bike onto center stand, and left fairing panel. The fairing panel is attached by 16 fasteners, one of which is a non-removable cam-lock type fastener at upper rear of fairing panel. The most difficult fastener to access is located under the mirror. The mirror is pop-off design. Remove by holding mirror housing in one hand (to minimize how far it moves when knocked loose) and striking outer edge of mirror toward the front of bike. Twist bulb holder out of mirror housing to disconnect housing from wiring harness. (This is easier than removing the wires at the connectors.) Now remove all sixteen fasteners with 3 mm allen wrench. There are three different lengths of fasteners, so pay attention to where they came from. Longest fastener is behind the mirror housing. Next longest fasteners are the three that come from the bottom rear. 2. Remove the storage compartment located under the fairing. (Note: this is the compartment that holds the radio on the RTL. My bike = didn't have a radio, so there may be additional steps required to get this = unit out of the way on a radio-equipped RT. I think the horn installation = is possible without removing this compartment, but it is easier with the compartment removed.) The storage compartment is attached at four locations. In addition, there is a clip attached to the storage compartment that holds the speedometer cable in place. The speedo = cable clip is removed with a 3 mm allen wrench. One of the other fasteners also requires a 3 mm allen wrench. Two of the fasteners are 4mm socket head cap screws. These fasteners also hold the inlet air horn in = place. The last fastener is a plastic-coated 9mm hex nut located inside the storage compartment at the top. 3. Remove the stock horn. The stock horn is suspended from a bracket that is mounted to a stud with a 13 mm nut. First, disconnect the two connectors attached to the positive and negative spade-type terminals = on the horn. These will pull right off after you pull back the rubber boots covering the connectors. Then disconnect the mounting bracket by removing the 13 mm nut. Rob Lentini's instructions for the = installation of Fiamms on the RS call for throwing the stock horn as far away as possible. To avoid the possibility that the stock horn is found and used by someone else, I recommend that you first drive a wooden stake through the center of the horn, then throw it as far as possible. 4. Modify the new mounting brackets. The mounting brackets that came with the "Sound Master" horns were about 3.5 inches long, which is just slightly longer than the stock bracket. The other difference between the stock bracket and the brackets supplied with the Fiamms is that the Fiamm brackets have a bend at one end while the stock bracket is straight. Looking at them from the side, this is what the brackets = that came with my Fiamms looked like: | | | | | / =20 | There is a hole drilled in each end of the bracket, one for mounting = the horn and one for mounting to the vehicle. For the RT installation, I had to modify the brackets by drilling another hole in them, in accordance with the following diagram: top || < existing hole "a" || || || || < new hole "b" // || < existing hole "c" bottom As shown in the above diagram, I made a sandwich of the two brackets. Locations "a" and "c" show where the existing holes were. I drilled a new hole "b" (0.25 inch diameter) about 0.8 inches above the center of the bottom hole "c". (Note: when the brackets are sandwiched together as shown, the exiting holes don't line up perfectly; I redrilled the holes after the clamping the brackets together in a vise.) 5. Trial installation of modified brackets and horns. The above = diagram is a view of the brackets from the left side of the bike with the front of the bike to the left. At location "c", I mounted one of the horns = on the side of the brackets facing the front of the bike. At location = "b", I mounted the other horn on the side of the brackets facing the rear of the bike. (The horns are secured to the brackets with 10 mm nuts and lock washers.) Both horns are mounted with the horn trumpets pointing straight down. Hole "a" slips over the mounting stud for the original horn. Before installing the horns, I removed the red plastic covers that slip over the back of the horns. I also removed and discarded the metal grills that came on the horns to minimize the risk of any = abrasion on the front brake line, which lies right next to the horns. (The = metal grills have sharp edges and they aren't really necessary.) 6. Trim rear horn to clear coil spring. Assembled as described above, the plastic trumpet on the rear horn may interfere with the coil spring on the Telelever. There are two ways to eliminate this interference: trim the horn trumpet or bend the mounting brackets toward the front of the bike. I did a little of both. I very slightly bent the mounting brackets and I trimmed about 0.25 inches off of the horn trumpet. (I used a grinder, but a coarse file would work fine.) These adjustments gave me over 0.25 inch clearance. 7. Extend original electrical connections to new horns. Based on other's experience mounting dual Fiamms on R11s, I didn't worry about adding a separate relay or fuse. (Each of the Fiamm horns are rated at 5 amps and the horn circuit on the RT has a 15 amp fuse.) The original horn has two spade-type connectors, one positive and one negative. The Fiamms have only one spade-type connector each, which is positive. The negative connection can be made to the mounting stud because the case = of the horn is ground. To extend the positive lead to the new horns, I used two short pieces of 18 gauge wire, twisted together at one end and inserted into a male-type spade connector which I crimped on to the wires. At the other ends of the wires I crimped on solderless connectors compatible with the spade connector on the Fiamms. For the negative lead, I used just one piece of wire. I crimped a spade-type connector on one end. On the other end I installed a connector that would slip over the mounting stud on one of the horns, under the nut that holds the horn on the bracket. This grounds both of the horns since they are both connected to the same metal bracket. To minimize the risk of shorting the positive lead to ground, I also taped up the connection I made using the solderless connector to extend the positive lead. 8. Tighten all nuts and test horns. 9. Reinstall storage compartment, fairing, mirror, and seat by = reversing instructions in steps 1 and 2. When reinstalling the storage compartment, don't forget to reattach the clip holding the speedometer cable and reinstall the intake air horn. Tightening of the 16 screws that hold the fairing in place was a concern the first time I did it. There are no torque specs provided in the service manual and these are very small fasteners that would be easy to strip. What works well for me is to first snug up each screw using the short end of an allen = wrench for a lever. I then reverse the wrench to obtain more leverage and tighten each screw an additional quarter turn. By experience I have found that this keeps the screws tight and never causes a screw to strip. Since doing this installation, I have run the bike through rain and sleet and logged about 1,000 miles. Everything is holding up well and the horns sound great. Tom Austin 97 R1100RT From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 17:38:49 1997 Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 17:18:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Art Campbell To: Mike King Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Saeng edging Reply-To: Art Campbell I only use a foot, across the top of the little BMW winglet on my RS. Moves the blast up an inch or two. Tell the phone guy what you want it for; they have high level of knowledge about what applications work. They only give a 50/50 success rate for sport fairings. The SAENG phone guys will sell you less than the 3' minimum on special occasions . . . for example, I bought some of their one- step cleaner/polish and they sold me 1' . Ask about their "courtesy cut." Cheers, Art Art Campbell artcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ArtCampbellNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com "... In my opinion, there's nothing in this world beats a '52 Vincent and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson No disclaimers apply. DoD 358 On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Mike King wrote: > > Dear Prezes, > I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the Saeng > edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and > roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3 > foot min. order). Is it worth it? > > Mike King > San Francisco > K75 > R80RT > R75/5 > > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 20:04:52 1997 From: Joe Monenschein Subject: BMW: RE:SAENG Edging To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 17:53:24 -0600 (MDT) Reply-To: Joe Monenschein >Dear Prezes, >I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the Saeng >edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and >roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3 >foot min. order). Is it worth it? > >Mike King I have a K100 standard with a bmw windshield and I put the saeng edging on. It looks good and cost a lot. I think the frequency of the roar may have changed a couple of Hz. Probably with an open cockpit the thread about quiet helmets might be the closest to the mark although I'm not quite yet finished using my Aria (sp?). If you do decide to install the edging, you'll need some sort of mallet to get it on (I used a hammer) and if you go crazy and buy enough to go all the way around (like I did) your best bet is to put a bead of silicon sealant on the last 3 or 4 inches (where the windshield takes a right angle bend) in order to keep your mind on the road and off the flapping strip of edging hanging from your bike. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 18 12:22:35 1997 Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:48:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Rick Povich To: Mike King Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Saeng edging X: I'd rather be two-wheelin' Reply-To: Rick Povich On Thu, 17 Jul 1997, Mike King wrote: > I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the Saeng > edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and > roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3 > foot min. order). Is it worth it? If your K windshield comes up to about eye-level when you're riding, the Saeng edging will help you. It channels the wind (and rain) about 3" or so higher. I have it on 2 of my bikes and it does make a difference for me. It's really pretty easy to install, too, especially if you get it warmed up in the sun. Saeng re-designed the edging in the past couple years and it's more effective than the older version. Rick Povich ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Rick Povich University of Pittsburgh Media Producer Audiovisual Department SHUTTER+NoSpam@NoSpamPITT.EDU (814) 269-7103 Johnstown, Pa. 15904 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> < It's not whether you screw up, > < but how you recover that counts > < Squid Factor:18.99 DoD#032653 > <1976 R90/6 1981 R100RT 1991 R100GS/PD > < Paris Daycare Mudbog and Dirt Flingin' Society > < http://www.pitt.edu/~shutter > < N 40 17.697 W 78 59.867 > < Rambling, Chronically Bored #1 > <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 18 15:05:06 1997 Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 11:20:59 -0700 (PDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Dennis & Karen Withner Subject: BMW: Saeng edging (and other nifty stuff a F'berg)) Reply-To: Dennis & Karen Withner >From: mkingNoSpam@NoSpamsirius.com (Mike King) >Dear Prezes, >I'm probably chewing on some old meat here, but how effective is the Saeng >edging. I've got a K75 with the BMW windshield and the flow blasts and >roars right into my helmet. The stuff ain't cheap at ten bucks a foot (3 >foot min. order). Is it worth it? Mike, I asked the same question near a year ago. At the national in F'berg I got some. My bike has a Leuftmeister fairing and I bought enough to do the whole edge. Actually I measured w/ a steel tape that the folks at Aeroflow loaned me and got a piece two inches too long NoSpam@NoSpam $1.00 per inch. Oh woe is me, wasted $2/2 beers. Or, was it a devious ploy by the vendor to sell more edging. Saeng wasn't at the show as I hoped they would be, but Aeroflow folks were prudent in bringing along a roll of the stuff. Said a lot of their customers want it. Made ME happyas it was one of the things I hoped to get while at the big shew. Does it work? Well, the advice said stick three inches of your fingers where U want to put the edging and see what difference it makes, which is supposed to approximate what the edging is going to do. I had previous done the finger test on a few occasions and that did make some difference in noise level, and recommends from prezes were good. The difference it made was that on the 2700 miles back from F'berg I was no longer worrying about impending total hearing loss as I had been on the way down. I ride tall and use a Duotech and plugs. The Saeng works as advertised, so get ur fingers up there, or tape some plastic up for an Idea of the difference. MUCH quieter. Another easier and more realistic way to do the *test* is to just duck down about 3" while underway. Only thing I woud like to see different would be to have the stuff in clear instead of black, though U do get more or less used to it except when on a rough road or high wind when the screen moves a lot. Also purchased on the trip was the large RKA tank bag. Didn't see these guys first time around the vendor area and I was UNHAPPY. Found them the 2nd day. Didn't see em' U know, even though I walked right by them. Just thinking about how well designed and made my bag is makes me all warm inside! Functional art. I looked at em' all and nothing compairs, also the advice of prezes. Got the rain cover and didn't need it on the way back. Karma. Picked up a Hyperlite set too. Had it up and running in about 20 minutes at the camp site. I fell better now. Smokin' credit card. My battery decided it had worked for long enough on saturday morning. ONE of the shops there luckily had ONE left for my bike(R100/7). So I got to do that drill too. Only things I got on the trip that I didn't want were two bent rims due to following too close behind a motor home in attempting to pass, and driving into a miniature version of the grand canyon on a bridge deck. (Watch out for those bridge decks, lots of bad stuff there). Oh yea, also had the the two nifty sets of self stowing camp cuttlery I bought stolen of of my top case in Montrose, CO , in front of a friends house, along w/ my fanny pack and some misc. stuff. Good trip all in all. Lets see Mike, what was it U asked about??? Yep, it was worth it. see U aroundel Dennis (DMW) %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Dennis Maxwell, & Karen Lee, Withner BMWRA/AIRHEADS/MOA/ULC Ham-NX7D SSI-IT #123 Ham-KA7EJO ANDI,NAUI,YMCA,PADI Diving Travel Agent Washington Divers Inc. 903 N State St, Bellingham WA 98225 ph 360-676-8029 fax 360-647-5028 ~Diving Educators and Outfitters since 1973~ 77' R100/7 "Educator" Carpe Beemum - (sieze the Beemer) *********************** From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 18 20:58:47 1997 From: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Fri, 18 Jul 1997 17:49:51 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: Saeng Edging Reply-To: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com I have tried it on the parabelem on my KRS. Without it, if I lower my head about an inch or two there is an extreem difference in wind noise. In this application the Saeng edging did nothing except provide a visual obsctuction. With the Luftmeister windshield the noise is much greater and again, no effect. While I have heard of it working well in some applications, in these two it did not. VIC WARUSZEWSKI, SoD # 21, VI #1 MOA 85 K100RS BMW Touring Club of Detroit MOA#1, Motor City Beemers Team K-Basa # 3 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd Behind every man who achieves success Stand a mother, a wife and the IRS. Ethel Jacobson, From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 21 11:24:25 1997 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 10:04:07 -0500 (CDT) From: Rand Z Rasmussen To: kellye culberth Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: adhesive question Reply-To: Rand Z Rasmussen This was a thread about two years ago. I used common white bathtub silicone on mine and they have held fast through four scortching North Dakota Summers and four Freezing North Dakota winters. rand On Sat, 19 Jul 1997, kellye culberth wrote: > > > I have a pair of (used) knee pads that I'd like to put on the tank > of my K75. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what sort of > adhesive would be suitable for this application? > > Thanks, > > kellye > ~~~ > kellye culberth > 1992 BMW K75RT, 1985 Kawasaki GPz550 > MOA #77148 BMWRA #22299 > Plano, Tx > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 21 12:26:14 1997 From: CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 12:10:07 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K bike Aeroflow fairing Reply-To: CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Greetings all, I just called Aeroflow and purchased a blemished K bike fairing for only $135. The cut out in the middle of the fairing allowing air flow on both sides is off center by 1/4 in. No problem for me. Just wanted to let anyone know that it is worth it to ask about defects, blemished items. Good deal. Chas Walter 87 K100RS From Solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Sun Jul 13 15:33:06 1997 From: Solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 15:32:39 -0400 (EDT) To: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com, thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Theft proofing your plates why do all that work to create a "rivet" type when you can can just use rivets. that worked for me. get a rivet gun and some rivets and the only way to get them off is to drill them. easier than all that work. john solipsist9NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 23:28:33 1997 Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 22:06:59 -0600 To: BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com From: Steven Huber Subject: BMW: re: Seang edging- removal? Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Steven Huber Wherin Prez Hans ponders: ... slight bobbit of text... > however what if I decide to remove it? does it >mark the edges of the windshield? If I understand correctly it must be >applied with a mallet, I imagine it to be similar to autombile windlacing >which has metal clips inside, does the Saeng? Depends on how A-R you are about the screen. There is a slight possibilty of marks being left. Clean the screen well and try some spit, this will help. I found that what few marks that were on my K75S screen easily removed with some plastic polish. BTW, it doesn't always need a mallet to fit on. Was a simple push on with my Aeroflow, used a screwdriver handle to tap it on with the stock K75S screen. ************************************************************************ Steven Huber '88 R100RX '90 K75S IBMWR, BMWRA, BMW MOA, AMA, G.O.B #17, IBMC, UMCI Madison, WI shuberNoSpam@NoSpamitis.com From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 02:41:48 1997 From: "ynotfix" To: "bmwmc" Cc: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: Aeroflow Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 23:26:21 -0700 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "ynotfix" Fellow Prezzes; Just picked up my new Aeroflow for the K11RS. I AM IMPRESSED! Possibly the easist accessory I could install. It fit just right, and the instructions were detailed and accurate. As far as function, it's great. The envelope is exactly what I was hoping for and it seems to be as stable as ever, even at elevated speeds. I was able to obtain a factory "blem" at a considerable savings, but in light of how well it works it is a good deal at list price. The blem on mine was due to some minute bubbles in the plastic. As I view the road over the shield, this is no problem for me. Their product is definitely of the highest quality. If you are considering this unit I highly recomend it . The guys at the factory are great too, all Beemer riders, and they know what they are talking about. C-Ya, goin ridin! Tony Angco '96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900 '84 Honda XLV750R M/C Krazy " If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...." Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 15:04:26 1997 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 11:41:59 -0700 From: "jerome N. Harris" To: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: BarBacks Reply-To: "jerome N. Harris" I installed bar backs vis the local dealer on my R1100RSL to try and get some relief for a back problem (Doc said to sit more upright). No problems although the front brake line needs replaced with a longer one which makes the whole thing a bit pricier given BMW parts costs. However the guys at Santa Cruz BMW had a new line off a Triumph that they had put different bars on which I got for $10 making the whole thing tolerable. The only other comment is that the bar backs tend to give you more leverage against the rubber mounted bar and hence a longer movement of the handles. Don't know if this would make anything subject to breaking under aggressive riding like the breaking that occurred with earlier model R1100 mounts. But they definitely are available. Jerry Harris '96 R1100RSL '73 R75/5 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 23:19:20 1997 From: "ynotfix" To: Cc: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: Re: K1100RS Bar Backs or "C" Bars? Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 19:59:29 -0700 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "ynotfix" Hi Ted; I first want to thank you for your input on the Aeroflow. It was very helpful in my decision to get one, a decision that I'm real glad I made! What a great item. It's everything you said and then some. I never did find out what you felt in the twistys but this one seems to be just fine. Next, Re: bar backs.... I also found there is no barbak for the K1100RS. I wound up creating my own bar setup, I took a set of Honda bars (off of an older 400cc four cyl.) and bent the ends up about 2", and back about 2.5". I did this by heating the bar carefully, and slooowly pressuring the ends to where I wanted them. If you did not want to use this method , I heard that there is a bar that has a similar bend on some BMW of the past. Also there is a company in Pasadena,CA called Flanders that has a very large selection of bends available. If you tell them the rise, sweep, length, and pullback they should be able to match something up. (And more economically) The modification that I made was done without any change of hardware other than the bar. The only hitch is the BMW bar is a tiny bit smaller , everything will work except for the throttle housing because it isn't "split" and the new bars are just a little too big. I solved the problem by using a brake cylinder hone to slightly enlarge the housing "bore". It only takes a little so it's necessary to "hone a little and check the fit". I think I have moved the grip position as far as possible without changing the hoses, or cables, but your bike may have a bit more,(or less) slack than mine. If I can help in any way don't hesitate to ask.( I live 15min. away from Flanders.) Tony Angco '96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900 '84 Honda XLV750R M/C Krazy " If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...." Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote. ---------- > From: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: BMW: K1100RS Bar Backs or "C" Bars? > Date: Wednesday, July 23, 1997 8:40 AM > > > Hello All, > > Much as I found the bar position on my K75S a bit too sporty, I am > increasingly finding with my K1100RS. On the K75S I installed the European > "C" Bar/Heated Grips combo and that did the trick. As this is a bit > expensive (and a PITA to be sure :) I was wondering about alternatives such > as Bar Backs. I called my local dealer and was told they are not available > for K1100RS', but thought I would just make sure :) > So, has anyone heard of them for a K1100RS? If so, how much? Were they a > pain to install ('95 K1100RS) and were any new cables or hoses needed? > > TIA! > > ~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ > Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com - TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr) > Georgetown, Washington DC, USA - HOYA JD '94 - Joe's Toadies > IBMWR - BMWBMW - BMWMOA - BMWRA - GG#3 - SoD#7 > BMWBMW Newsletter Editor, "Between The Spokes" > ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Visit http://www.bmwbmw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Aug 11 13:45:33 1997 Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 13:01:45 -0400 From: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) Subject: BMW: Aeroflow for KRS To: garyjhNoSpam@NoSpambernstein.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: FLETCHER.J.K-NoSpam@NoSpampostal.essd.northgrum.com (FLETCHER.J.K-) X-No-Archive: yes Gary, I read about your struggle with wind abatement on your K11RS. I had similar wind buffeting problems with my old K75s with its Aeroflow. The solution was to add the Saeng "wing" deflector to the top of the Aeroflow. This is not the edging, but a plastic strip about 9" long by 4" high. This REALLY added a large margin of wind deflection. The piece was adjustable so you can match the angle, and thus the airflow to your own needs. Saeng also sells "winglets" to augment the main wing, however, I didn't find them to be very effective. I can't add much as far as the "pulling" goes. This might be physics in action. BTW, you are one tough dude to take on the iron butt with your neck pains. Go get em!! Jim Fletcher 88 K75RS (Autobahn) From "Hayes, Scott" Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 15:16:39 -0700 From: "Hayes, Scott" Subject: BMW: Highway pegs for the K11LT Joseph Luther wrote: > > At the recent Husker Rally hosted by the Nebraska BMW Night Riders, I saw > several KLTs with highway pegs mounted on the engine guards (case guards). > All owners seemed satisfied with this option but were, strangely, not > enthusiastic. > > Any pro or con arguements for installation of highway pegs on the K1100LT? > > Any recommendations for type or model of pegs? > > Also saw a K75 luggage rack installed on the top of the top case of the KLT. ?? > Joe Luther > Nebraska > K1100LT - "EXIT" > I bought a set from my local Honda dealer. They are heavy chrome and have rubber "O" rings around the body. They work very well and provide relief on a long trip. They also allow you to get your legs out of the heat. - - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From "Wes Knipmeyer" Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: BMW: Footpegs, Threads N Flames Tech Tip: I replaced the stock R1100GS footpegs with R100GS/PD foot pegs. This lowered the footpegs 1" and moved them forward 1" and fits me perfect (5'11"). I used the PD spring and spacer and an allen head bolt with nylock nut for the footpeg pin. Drilled a small hole in the footpeg mounting plate near the bottom hole for the footpeg pin for the spring tang to fit in. From VroadracerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 20:09:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Turbo/ more power on R100 R Erik, I have two turbo twins, one is 650cc, and the other is 1,000cc and both are in 81 R-65 bikes. When I put the turbo on the 1,000cc bike , the rear wheel horsepower went from 48 HP to 76HP with no other changes. It made 58 ft. lbs. torque at 5,000 rpm. It is fun to ride and more than enough to keep you from having to say you are sorry for not being able to keep up with your other BMW riding friends. The older twins with a turbo has a good power to weight ratio and doesn`t need a lot more HP. The down side of the turbo is the extra heat in the summertime and at stoplights. The extra heat causes the exhaust valves to wear out a litttle quicker, but you have to realize that "a turbo bike is like a bar of soap, every time you use it, a little bit of it goes away". However, it is a fun machine that is worth the down side to those of us who ride them. Riding a turbo is much like carrying a gun in the old west, you don`t have to use it if there is no reason , but it sure is good to have if you need it! I have 85,000 plus miles on my turbo and I have no intention of changing to something else. Your best chance of finding one is to scan the Flea Market section of the BMW OWNERS NEWS as Luftmeister no longer makes them for the older twin. If I can help you any other way, e-mail me at VroadracerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Jerry Settle BMWMOA AMBASSADOR From "Rob Lentini" Date: Sat, 13 Sep 1997 18:32:13 -0700 Subject: BMW: Fw: RS vs GS intake tubes An anonymous benefactor writes the following regarding the installation of GS intake tubes on an RS/RT: ==== Rob Lentini wrote: > > > > Who of out there has actually replaced their RS intake tubes with the > > narrower (higher velocity) GS items? I saw the dyno chart provided by > > Anthonie, but is there any first-hand experience with this? > > I've replaced them on my R11RT a few months ago. At this time this was > kind of an insider tip in Germany. Aparrently the knowledge is in the > public domain by now. > > After I'd modified my RT in this way I considered mailing my experiences > to the list, but modifications of this kind (and almost any other kind) > are forbidden in Regulation-Germany, leading not only to conflicts with > the law but even to insurance problems in case of an accident. So I > better refrained from discussing this in the public (even the mailing > list). Sorry about my paranoia, but it wasn't me who invented those > draconic german rules. > > Now to your question. Yes, the approvement is stunning. Too strong to be > explained by the placebo effect alone. With the additional torque > especially in the region between 3000 and 4000 rpm it now feels in 3rd > gear almost as in 2nd gear before. I was delighted. > > It's true that this improvement is payed for at the high end of the rpm > scale. Classical tuning knowledge. But at least for me it's not really > noticible. I shift up before 6500 rpm, anyway. Top speed may be affected > by the few missing HPs. However, my RT still runs 200 km/h (speedo > reading) with bags, and that's more than enough for me. I don't feel > comfortable at >160 km/h, anyway. > > So, if you are a fan of plenty low end torque, try it out. Replacing the > tubes is not really difficult. All you need to do is to dismount the > throttle body to move it out of the way. The fuel line doesn't need to > be disconnected. It can be bent far enough (carefully). Only the > throttle position sensor plug and the grounding wire on the left side > need to be removed. > > Now the original intake tubes can be pushed slightly into the air box > and turned (they are lightly curved) to an angle where you can pull them > out completely without interfering with the throttle body. Insert the > new tube the same way and reattach everything the way it was before. A > throttle body synchronisation is advised afterwards, of course. > > If you don't know about the modification, you almost can't tell the > difference from the outside. The new tubes have only a slightly smaller > diameter, but are about twice as long. The long ends, however, are > hidden in the air box. > > After the modification the motor sounds louder and more aggressive to > the rider (intake valve sounds etc.). I believe that this is due to the > longer intake tubes. They are transporting the sounds to almost under > the air filter, so it takes a more direct way to the outside and is > therefore less muffled than with the original tubes. In a way, however, > this nicely matches the increased torque one gets. :-) > > Well, that's it. If you have any questions, just ask, and if you like to > pass this text to other people, just do so, but please anonymize it for > the reasons I pointed out above. ==== Thanks my friend, Rob Lentini '94 R1100RS Tucson AZ H 520-790-8865 W 520-295-6411 Three Flags Classic #205 Instructor, Motorcycle Safety Foundation Director, BMW Motorcycle Owners of America I WILL RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS From CDTyler1NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 00:33:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Help! Need Adhesive Advice In a message dated 97-09-16 14:51:25 EDT, J. F. Brown writes: < I need some advice... < My R11RT has a rubber pad on the tank, just forward of the seat, that < serves as a "belt buckle protector". The pad has a peel-off adhesive < backing. Several months ago, one corner of the pad became unstuck. The < corner was reglued using DAP contact cement. All was fine for awhile. < Can anybody suggest a powerful adhesive that will stick to the rubber pad < without unsticking? Also, is there any sort of prep that can/should be < done to the rubber pad to make an adhesive stick better to it? Loctite 454. This is the stuff my mechanic got for me to glue rubber knee pads to the gas tank of my R80. The pads have been on for two years and show no sing of coming off. The package is from Germany (with no English translation) so I am not sure where it may be available, except from your friendly BMW dealer. It does have a BMW part tag . . . BMW 9062 157 LT45420. Carl Tyler '86 R80RT, '96 R11RT Millbrae, CA From Tom Nash Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 20:40:26 -0700 Subject: BMW: Mirror problem solved Tom, I now have a Beemer-Davidson. :) A stock Harley-Davidson long-shaft mirror fits in the handlebar hole, does not interfere with the fairing, and works pretty well. Tom Nash '94 K1100RS San Francisco From Mark Gensman Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 07:13:16 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: Help! Need Adhesive Advice L G Burnett wrote: > > ----SNIP---- > > > > I need some advice... > > > > My R11RT has a rubber pad on the tank, just forward of the seat, that > > serves as a "belt buckle protector". > > 3M makes an adhesive for trim on automobiles. I glued on some cloisonne > BMW Motorsport emblems on my sidecar rig about seven years ago, and they > show no sign of coming off. You might also consider 3M weatherstrip > adhesive. > > Buddy Burnett > Nashville, Tennessee - -- I used 3M spray on adhesive to glue the rubber knee pads to my 78 100/7. They have been on for 7 years now and show no sign of coming off. Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From walker Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 20:11:00 -0600 Subject: re: BMW: R1100 GS case guards/ crash bars Rick LeVine wrote: >I was looking for case guards / crash bars for my 95 R1100 GS... I have the factory scuff guards (Kevlar?) on my bags; together with the stock plastic head guards, these prevented damage in a low-speed drop. Bob Henig (Bob's BMW) advises against aftermaket (including BMW) guards on R1100 series bikes. They can apparently cause damage to the steering head subframe in a spill. Walker, 96 R1100GSA, Boulder, Colorado, USA walkerNoSpam@NoSpamsofmag.com From jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpamCCGATE.HAC.COM Date: Mon, 22 Sep 97 09:10:37 PST8 Subject: BMW: RE: Adhesive Help - Thanks! Hi All, Just want to thank everybody who responded to my query re a good adhesive to reglue my rubber protective belt buckle pad to the tank. I wound up using 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Dick M. called it "yellow peril" and he wasn't kidding! This stuff *REALLY* sticks... I shoulda used disposible latex gloves. Had a helluva time getting the stuff off my hands. I don't think I'll have any future problems with the pad coming off! J.F. Brown 1983 R80ST "NO PIKL" 1997 R11RT "NOIR RAD" IBMWR, AMA, MOA, RA, BOOF, DoD, VI +----------------------------------------------+ | jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpampower.net (J.F. Brown) | | Net Surfin' from Manhattan Beach, California | +----------------------------------------------+ From joutlanNoSpam@NoSpamiag.net (John H. Outlan) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 16:09:09 -0400 Subject: BMW: Subj Chg: Fiamm install on R11GS...easy way.. =46iamm horn install for dummies: Tech wizards please excuse the simplicity of this post :) Just to post something other than Fontana, I thought I would add this little tid bit of knowledge concerning a quick Fiamm Horn install on the 11GS. After Terry Evans made fun of my horn at the South Carolina Welcome Center :), upon arriving back to Florida I purchased a _single_ Fiamm snailshell horn, Model F, the Freeway Blaster, low note. I wanted to increase the decibel level, but have a simpler installation than a dual set up, even though I know how to do it. The single Fiamm horn is much, much louder than stock, at least as loud as my cage, and brackets right up there where the stock horn sat, using the existing wiring. You will need to use the angle bracket that comes with the horn, since the snail shell is rotated 90 degrees from the stock horn with respect to the connectors. When angling the bracket make sure the Horn clears the clutch cable and the front shock. This will leave the horn, in my case, pointing down and slightly forward, which I think should be good enough to keep it from flooding with water. Be careful not to pinch the horn wiring when reinstalling the new bracket where you took off the original. Remember, don't remove the stock horn from the bracket, remove the entire bracket with the horn attached, then pull the wires. Very easy. If you're set on dual horns, I saw a GS with them mounted under the silver decorative cover plates (between gas tank and headlight) in the middle using the existing screw there on the bottom, connected with the angle brackets that come with the snailshells. Of course you'll have to split and extend the wiring. =46WIW, John O. Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 17:05:11 -0400 From: joutlanNoSpam@NoSpamiag.net (John H. Outlan) Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Fiamm install on R11GS...easy way. On Fri, 26 Sep 97 12:43:07 PDT, "Tom Hill" wrote: |:< |: Subject: BMW: K1100 Bigger Tank Wuedo will take a stock tank, re-work it so that it goes up to about 27 (from 19) liters. It's pricy though, about $500.00. Looks almost stock at first glance, but has a deeper, rounder back. The standard tank bag will no longer work as the modified tank is much deeper. Maybe you can find someone in the USA that can weld and form sheet aluminum as well as the Germans. Bob in Munich '94 K1100RS Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 07:33:32 -0400 From: "Robert L. Altic Jr." Subject: BMW: K11 Gas Tank > How do you K types out there manage? Does anyone sell a replacement gas > tank for the K that looks like the stock one but gets it up to 6 or 7 or > even 9 like on the old slash 5 series bikes? > Jerry, There is a man in Texas who can enlarge the stock tank by about 3-4 gallons. Contact Ray Randolph in Texas, 806-785-1522. I have an extra tank that I was going to do it to, but have decided not to. If you or anyone on the list is interested in a K1100 LT tank, very good condition, with one very, very small scratch/ding on the side, it is for sale for $400 or best offer. The knee pads and emblems are attached and in excellent shape. Color is Pacific Blue. The new tank cost the insurance company over $1000. If you or any presidents are interested, drop me a line privately. OBTW, buy the K, you'll love it on the road. Best to all, Bob Altic balticNoSpam@NoSpamrichmond.infi.net 76505.2111NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com Sandston, VA 23150 K Whiner #44 1993 BMW K1100 LTA Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 07:17:26 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Subject: BMW: K1100 modifications list Just for the record I thought I would list the modifications I have made to my 95 K1100LT since I bought it last October: 1. Solid mount the handlebars. 2. Installed freeway pegs on the crash bars. 3. Installed Valentine V-1 radar detector with remote and helmet speaker. 4. Removed rear speaker assembly, installed Corbin backrest, installed steel eyelets for bungees in top lid, repainted top lid flat black to match the rest of the box and for quick touch up after carrying stuff on top. 5. Purchased two Bunz-ez pads. 6. Installed Fox shock. 7. Installed quick release one quart drink holder over the tach. 8. Installed zipper pouch above speedo/tach for holding sunglasses etc. 9. Removed radio and front speakers. 10. Cut off end ears of left fairing pocket cover, hinged lid and installed cigarette lighter in front portion and built a false bottom to cover the wiring harness. Makes a very handy storage pocket accessable at speed. 11. Installed two 55 watt halogen driving lights under the headlight with the switch mounted in the plastic handlebar cover next to the windshield control switch. 12. Installed Hyper-lights. 13. Today I am buying a modified Staintune exhaust system. It has the touring can that has been modified by Staintune to be between the touring can and the sport can. It actually costs me $20.00. (I won $600.00 last night playing video poker on a $20.00 bet). Purchase price is $600.00. 14. Bought and use a Battery Tender. That's all for now. I'm waiting for a performance chip to become available and I still plan on installing White Power front fork springs. That should just about do it. (for now) Anybody requesting information on any of this stuff just needs to ask.. 11. Installed Air Wings which totally cured any heat problem. 12. Purchased two BMW electric vests. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 00:21:50 From: Larry Fears Subject: BMW: New tank and stuff Well folks the bike mods are about finished and I am beyond pleased with the results. I took delivery of this LT May 1 of this year and as many of you remember I got a smokin' deal from Morton's because it was a never titled '93 BMWNA test bike. I was a bit leary of the purchase at first but Steve and Jeff at Morton's managed to convince BMW to give me a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty and it has turned out to be just the bike I had been looking for. Even so about 2 months ago I decided that I needed to get several custom touches done to it to get it to where I wanted it to be. With that in mind the mods began. Right off the bat I put a Russel seat on it. I have no desire to restart a thread that has been beaten to death but in my opinion there is nothing on the market today that can beat a Russel. The stock seat, in a word, sucks and I've tried Corbin. For me, the Corbin was good until about 500 miles then I was in agony. With the Russel I regulary knock out 700 - 800 mile days and my butt feels great. Sometimes I throw on a sheepskin for added comfort but never because I feel I have to. Well worth the money and wait. Cost: About $300 The next mod was a Throttlemeister. I've gotten to the point now that I use the thing every time I ride. I like the fact that I don't have to maintain a constant heavy grip on the throttle all of the time. Also thanks to my get off in '96 it gives my metal filled wrist a break. In my opinion the ultimate and best throttle lock out there is the Throttlemeister. It installs in minutes and fits perfectly and it also looks great with the brushed aluminum. Cost: about $100 The next big area that needed to be addressed was the pathetic state of lighting on a stock LT. The stock 55 watt headlight is mediocre at best and don't even get me started on the rear. My solution for the front was to install a set of PIAA 910 driving lights. I did alot of research before deciding on these but with 110 watts of lighting per driving light I finally decided on the 910's. These things are absolutely fabulous. They quite literally turn the night into day. I decided to mount them up high for better spread and Reynolds makes a special bracket just for the K bikes for this. The bracket mounts between the mirror and the fairing and seems to be rock solid. In the future I may wire the switch directly to the high beams but for now I used a stock BMW rocker switch and placed it in one of the dummy slots I had on the dash. I even bought the little insert for the switch that looks like a fog light. :-) All in all I love the result. As you will note the cost was rather high but after going through what it took to pull the bike apart to install the lights I was glad I had spent the money. The thought of having to go through all of that again after I discovered those "wal-mart" specials don't work would just piss me off. For the rear I used a combination of black and white reflective tape for passive reflection. Actual lighting mods included a set of K running lights. These replace your stock turn signals and put them into double duty as turn signals and running lights. Made a big difference. Next was the installation of Hyper lights to help with people seeing me when stopped. After having them on for a few weeks I definitely notice people stopping further back. Last but not least was the installation of a neon license plate frame. Believe it or not it really helps with lighting up the rear and besides it makes me look more like my hero, Greg Pink. :-) Cost: PIIA 910's $260; Reynolds Bracket $73; BMW Rocker switch with insert $25; K Runnin' Lights $28; Hyper lights $47; Neon Frame $69. Last but not least was in the area of fuel management. I've long felt that it was ridiculous that BMW would build their touring machine with a meager 5.2 gallons of gas. The first thing I did in the area of fuel management was to install a fuel +. This thing is just beyond cool. Lots of useful information at your fingertips. It will tell you how many miles remaining on the tank, fuel economy, how many miles since you filled up, how many miles you have run that day, elapsed riding time and average speed. It does several other things but I haven't finished reading the manual yet. At first you might think that this is yet another useless gadget but I found that I was extending my fuel stops with confidence on the way down to Fontana. Next on the mods was just pure gas capacity increase. I considered the various options available, fuel cells and larger tanks and decided to go with a custom built tank. I had a guy in TX build me a 8.5 gallon tank from a stock LT tank. He basically cuts and welds the tank to increase the capacity. I isntalled it this past Saturday and it is just too cool. First of all I really like the looks of it. Big and bulky just like me. :-) The guy told me he was a welder not a painter so it is going to need a trip to the paint shop but it was well worth it. I most likely will put up with the mismatched paint and weld spots until tax season starts and I can't ride anyway. My first ride on it was a joy. I simply loved putting that much gas in my bike and I because I swapped the parts from the stock tank the gas guage mechanism is set up for the 5.2 gallon tank. So what? Well the bike didn't come off of full for 148 miles. :-) I can and will recalibrate my fuel plus for the larger capacity so this isn't that big of a concern. Cost: Fuel + $180 plus a bunch of begging to get Brian Curry to install it.; Tank $400 plus whatever it will take to get it painted. The only other mod I did was to purchase the helmet speaker option for my stock LT radio. I know alot of people say they can't hear there stereo at speed but I have never had any problems. I installed the helmet speaker thing with the bass monsters only so I can hear my talking books a bit better. (for those cross country trips and stuck in traffic days. :-) ) I haven't installed it yet so I can't say how well it works but everyone who has them loves them. Cost: Helmet jack $25; Bass Monsters $27. So there it is folks. After a whole bunch of $ ( I purposely refuse to add it all up) and some serious sweat time the bike is ready for some serious miles. Hell it's not that I want to be a high miler I just want to look like one. :-) Hmmm.... what did I do with that catalog for GPS's? Off to NC this weekend to run the Tarbutt. Larry Fears lgfcoNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com '93 K1100LTA "Blue Max" '85 K100RT "Gumby" R.I.P. '92 Mazda Miata "Half Cage" Gaithersburg, MD AMA, MOA, BMWBMW, SOD #5, Reindeer Rider BMWBMW Rides Chairman *** "This whole working thing really gets in the way of my riding."- Me*** Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 05:32:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Dana Priesing Subject: Re: BMW: K1100 modifications list You all are embarassing me. Here's my list of K11RS mods: 1. Front fender extension. $25. 2. Manual fan switch. $100. 3. Mirror leashes. $18. 4. Mounting plates for Va. stickers. $10. 5. BMWNA 100,000 mile medallion. No charge. Dana Priesing Arlington VA 94 K11RS Date: Wed, 1 Oct 1997 10:36:01 -0500 From: jlutherNoSpam@NoSpamunlinfo.unl.edu (Joseph Luther) Subject: Re: BMW: k1100LT Fuel Tank Size Speaking of K1100LT gas tank sizes ... On the way to Sturgis, I had an interesting conversation with a fellow in Buffalo WYO who was riding a trick K1100LT set up for the Iron Butt run. It had a seven (7) gallon fuel cell mounted under the passenger seat and into the tail compartment. The dual seat was a custom design, with the pillion being sharply higher than the riders seat. Looked okay though. So, this guy had about 12 gallons to run on. Let's see, that works out to about 500 miles range. Story was that he bought it from a guy who had it or got it in the Iron Butt - but the Iron Butt rider couldn't ride it anymore because he had a significant number of speeding tickets in excess of 100 mph resulting in loss of license. Joe Luther Nebraska K1100LT - "EXIT" Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 22:02:50 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: k1100LT Fuel Tank Size On Mon, 29 Sep 1997, Jerry Harris wrote: > How do you K types out there manage? Does anyone sell a replacement gas > tank for the K that looks like the stock one but gets it up to 6 or 7 or > even 9 like on the old slash 5 series bikes? Contact BMW of Fort Worth. On Sunday I saw a K11LT with an 8gl tank. Very nice work. Price unknown. 817-429-2182 Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 14:59:58 -0700 From: Ted Witting Subject: BMW: Big Ass K fuel tank Just in case anyone's intersted: Aloha BMW (503-642-2269 near Portland, OR) has a 10 gallon K-bike fuel tank hanging against the wall. It does not specify which K (are they interchangeable?). The tank is white with a wide blue stripe (approx 6" wide) running from front to rear accross the top (sort of the old Shelby Mustang look). The asking price is $1895 (yikes). No affiliation other than being a happy customer...(but then again, where I used to live, the closest dealer was 2+ hours...now I have two that are but a local phone call away...how can I not be a happy customer) Ted Witting '78 R100S Date: Thu, 2 Oct 1997 19:31:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Steven Eisenberg Subject: BMW: Bar backs The RS position is the best one for your back, if that matters. When you lean forward your arms take the weight AND the shock when you hit a bump and you vertibrae are not compressed. I shoiuld know I have had back surgery and both neurologist agree on the lean forward position. When you sit upright you back takes all the punishment and if it tends to hurt regularly then it will hurt more with that position. There are down sides to RS positioning but then there are draw backs to the scooter style anyhow. I'd recommend NOT barbacks, and enjoy the lean Steve Eisenberg Date: 6 Oct 1997 11:42:16 U From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: R1100RT hot grips Ben wrote: >I am contemplating the installation of heated grips on my R1100RT and have >three questions that I would like to pose to the learned Presidents. >1) Do heated grips work at highway speeds? Oh yeah. >2) Do heated grips place a major burden on the battery/charging system? Not on an R1100RT. I think they are only a four-amp draw. >3) Which heated grips are best...BMW brand or an after-market brand, if >aftermarket, which do you recommend? I would spend the $$ on the BMW ones.....fully connectorized, includes a high and low setting, and they are HOT mothers. And they are actually molded from decently compliant rubber....not that rock-hard stuff the snomobilers use. Those snowmobile jobs remind me of the wheels on my old Radio Flyer wagon..... Jon Diaz Date: Tue, 07 Oct 97 12:59:10 -0500 From: "Bob Davis" Subject: BMW: Welding Frames Hi All! Just my thought on welding accessories to the frame >>>don't<<< Changing tempering and wall thickness of the frame is not a good idea. Using a load distributing clamp system. Carefully formed pads clamped to the frame, and welded to the accessory is what you need to do if you must add this type of unit. Take a look at fairing mounts on /6 boxers to get an idea. BobD Date: Tue, 07 Oct 1997 15:36:53 -0500 From: Bob Taylor Subject: BMW: Re: screen replacement for K75s At 01:20 PM 10/6/97 -0400, Tom Keen wrote: >anybody got any experience with the aeroflow replacement screen for >the k75S.. any suggestions on reducing the buffeting? Tom, I am quite happy with the help that the Aeroflow gives me for touring on my K75S. I am just under 6' tall. With the regular BMW screen, the wind stream off of the windshield hits me around the chin. With the Aeroflow, the stream hits the upper portion of my helmet. And then I added Saeng edging to the Aeroflow (buy a 4' strip to do the whole shield), and the stream moved up another inch and got a bit "softer". The extra width of the Aeroflow gives an extra measure of rain protection, too, for your torso. All of this is *not* going to turn the S into an LT/RT. But for me it makes it much more enjoyable to run all day long at 75 or 80 mph, when I need to get to another part of the country. (Yeah, I know that's wimp speed for you Big Dogs out there. ;-) Thumbs up for the K75S Aeroflow. Bob ************************************************************ Bob Taylor Director, Academic Technologies Northwestern University, Evanston, IL bob-taylorNoSpam@NoSpamnwu.edu *** 1988 K75S Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 21:19:59 -0400 From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: What's the Story w/ Barbacks At 12:05 PM 10/1/97 -0600, Jay Martin wrote: > >Uprightly Seated Prez, > >I have been seriously considering getting a Russell seat, but thought I >better have my seating position nailed down before taking the pictures >Russell wants with the seat order. To get a bit more upright, I figure I >should add barbacks. Last night I am at the dealers and ask for pricing >information and get a response that now has me puzzled. > >1. "You can not get good barbacks anymore. Occasionally we get some in, >used." >Q: How can one tell a good barback from a bad one? They are made of metal, not wood. ;);) >2. "Barbacks will result in the loss of feel for the bike, especially if I >ride fast." >Q: Is this "loss of feel" something that only a Dr. Curve could detect? Not that I can tell, mine are made of metal. Plus the fasteners are tight, not loose. >3. "I would be better off to install different handlebars." >Q: My R90 does NOT have the short, low S bars. What then are my options? The R90S's I have seen is have bars with a small rise, not the real low Euro-bars. The RT style bars would look real weird. Bob's BMW sells "new" Bar backs. They are machined from solid aluminum on a Computer, Numerical, Controlled (CNC) milling machine. No effective difference from the cast units formerly from Luftmeister. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | "We cannot tolerate the proliferation of this paperwork any longer. | | We must kill the people producing it." | | - Vladimir Kabaidze 1936 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 08:53:54 +-200 From: Matz Rosenquist Subject: BMW: SV: Welding Frames Hi to the same "All" -- Agreed !!!! Having been to the HPN-works (the guys who made the Paris-Dakar winning = BMW's in the '80's) and seen the work to straighten a BMW after = reinforcements has been welded to the frame, I can assure you all that = the frame is less than perfect after welding is finished. Ok, their reinforcements are extensive, but I guess the same problem = will occur even after small "operations".=20 Rgds Mr MR HPN G/S 1000 (older sister of Polkapig) HONDA XR250 R Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 12:29:41 -0400 From: "Scott C. Adams" Subject: Re: BMW: K75RT and K75LT Don Eilenberger wrote: > 4. Someone - sometime - made plastic inserts which filled the areas > on the left and right'a the bike between the tank and the engine.. > more or less forcing the engine heat to travel backwards instead'a > upwards. It appears these were only made for K75's.. I have not been > able to find them new or used for the K100RT.. I'm making cardboard > templates with the thought of making some for myself somehow.. if > anyone KNOWS where these can be found - let Mike AND me know.. > Geez Don, I can actually tell an old man like yourself something.... K-Guard Side Panels are made by: Husky Mountain PO Box 593 Kingston, TN 37763 423-376-4968 I just happen to have them on the KRS - LOVE EM. I did not buy them for the heat but rather for the appearance. They DO help a lot with heat, however. - -Scott- *********************************************************************** ** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) ** ** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com ** Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 09:00:56 -0400 From: Bob DeHaney Subject: BMW: GS1100 Mods for the REAL Boonies Saw an interesting thing on DSF sports TV, a WITEC BMW. They take a GS1100 drive train put it in their own frame with a normal fork because with the telelever they can only get 200mm of travel and with theirs they= get 300mm. They throw away the fuel injection, cat,etc. and put big Bing= s on each cylinder cause ain't no Electronic FI testers in African or South= American jungles. No ABS of course. Its also 50 (fifty kg) =3D 110 poun= ds lighter than the standard GS. The bikes are essentially handmade so they= cost DM40000.00 which works out to about $22800.00 They include a custom= tank and seat. Probably can't pass any DOT smog and noise tests. Bob in Munich '94 K1100RS Date: Tue, 14 Oct 1997 10:00:29 EST From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Subject: Re: BMW: Gas flap Addressed to: Geoff Adams "Victor M. Kimura" bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ** Reply to note from Geoff Adams Tue, 14 Oct 1997 09:19:29 -0500 (CDT) >> Can any presidents out there think of a good reason for >> not removing the gas flap? You know, it's that stupid metal >> thing that keeps getting in your way when you try to >> completely fill up your tank... > >The purpose of the flap is to keep you from completely filling your tank, >thus leaving room for expansion without pushing more vapor into the >atmosphere or canisters. Putting in more fuel will probably cause some >additional measure of polution due to this type of expansion or overload >the charcoal canister on bikes that have them. FWIW. Yes, and a very good reason, I think. My K75 still has the flap, but I still used to pack all the gas I could into the tank, right up to the underside of the flap. But no more, and here's why. I did this on a hot day once, and drove straight home after filling the tank. At the gas station, immediately after filling, the tank felt cold, because gasoline storage tanks are underground. After getting home, I put the bike in the garage. About an hour later I went into the garage and smelled strong fuel vapors. After opening the garage door to vent them, I noticed a pretty large puddle of gasoline under the bike. I felt the tank; it was the same temp as the rest of the bike and everything else in the garage. As the gasoline in the tank warmed up to the amient temp. of the garage, it expanded. Since the tank was brim full, it had nowhere to go but the overflow dump tube. I am very glad I do not have a gas water heater in the garage, and that I did not hit the garage door opener switch (a potential spark source) before noticing the smell. The resultant explosion could have blown my house into the next county. I do not try to pack the tank any more, and I will not remove the flap. Bruce G. Keahey U S WEST Advanced Technologies Boulder, CO "Never annoy anything that you can't outrun!" Date: Wed, 15 Oct 97 09:56:07 -0400 From: Harris_Gary/ny_technologyNoSpam@NoSpamexplorer.siny.com Subject: BMW: Gas flap >So, if you remove the flap, you also need to remove the charcoal >canister and re-route the overflow line so that it drains on the ground. > tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org And, after you've done this and you've taken advantage of the additional useful capacity of your tank, don't use the side stand for 30 or so miles after filling (that is, if you fill to the max). Otherwise, you'll have a nice puddle of wasted fuel right next to your rear wheel. Gary - NYC Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 14:55:56 -0400 From: "Scott C. Adams" Reply-To: adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com Organization: Attorney at Law, P.O. Box 4069, Akron, Ohio 44321-0069 To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: Re: Leaking Gas Cap Solved Thomas Hundt wrote: > Glad to be of help. Scott -- what's the deal with the cup? > This is something you added? I never heard of this (which means, > of course, that maybe it's something I need! :-) It is a BMW "fix" for the problem of hoses always coming undone. Some people dont like it because of "fumes under the tank." Basically you take off the two vent hoses and this little cup thing fits in the corner of the frame rails directly underneath where the two nipples come down when you lower the tank. The fuel (if at all) flows into the cup and then you connect one of the hoses to a nipple in the bottom of the cup. Makes it easier to take the tank on and off, but destroys the closed system allowing fumes to build up there. Trade off I guess. -Scott -- *********************************************************************** ** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) ** ** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com ** ** 1426 Copley Meadows, Copley, Ohio 44321, USA (North East Ohio) ** ** Voice (330) 668-2006 Fax (330) 668-2006 ** ** KWhiner MC#13 BMWMOA #61199 BMWRA AMA #270-228/270-229 ** ** 91 K100RS16V(Mine) 86 K75C Low(Hers) Trailer Behind KRS(Baby) ** *********************************************************************** Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 13:52:04 -0400 (EDT) From: TymekNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Parabellum vs Aeroflow on R11RT Yes, mine has the Aztec washers , installed per instructions, perhaps mine didn't have enough curve in it. The aeroflow is getting real close to the paint when your running 100mph + , neither the aeroflow or the parrabellum are made of as substantial stock as the BMW screens. As for airflow, I am talking in the fully lowered position, where the laminer (spelling?) flow gives you nice smooth air to ride in, aeroflow has a larger mouth in the center to allow more air, this works very well, when the screen is up you get better coverage with the aeroflow also. I ride in miserable hot weather, high humidity, when the screen is down, the extra air is nice. have a good day, Terry Meek Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:35:11 -0600 From: "Haynes, Joel" Subject: BMW: RE: follow-up (R850R) >Just one more question... My husband (He Who Worries) >wants me to get crash bars to protect the cylinder heads >in the event of the bike falling over. Do they exist? >Are the cylinder heads likely to get expensively >damaged in a tip-over? I don't "plan" to drop the bike, >but stranger things have happened. Thanks again, I had the misfortune of a driveway drop with my new R850R. My dealer assured me that these things are so strongly built that in most cases any damage is just cosmetic and limited to the valve cover. To satisfy myself, I pulled the valve cover and checked the valve clearances myself assuming that that would be the most sensitive barometer of any problems. Result: valve clearances were right on. Hammersley cycles (Lynchburg, VA; http://www.webparts.com/index.htm ) sold me a new valve cover for $64.00 plus shipping (cheaper than protection bars). Joel Haynes Fort Collins, CO 97 R850R Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 09:42:37 EST From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Subject: Re: BMW: R65RS/RT Addressed to: "Diaz Jon" bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ** Reply to note from "Diaz Jon" 20 Oct 1997 10:58:21 U >>The new owner of my ex, an 81 R65, is considering whether it might be >>possible to put an R100RT or RS fairing on the bike. Anyone have any >>notions on whether this is feasible? > >A local guy here has an R65RS, so it is definitely feasible. I don't >know how much alteration is required to hold the main upper fairing >mount, since I don't recall my R65 having threaded mounting bosses in >the steering head. Maybe the bosses are there and I don't remember >them.....I only had the bike a short time. I'd really question the advisability of adding much weight/frontal area to a bike that is already marginal in the power department. I have added Sprint RT-type fairing to my K75 standard. On the several occasions I've had reason to test ride the bike with the fairing removed, the instant increase difference is performance is noticeable. Without the fairing, its a hot rod; with it, well, it's about like a K75RT. Something to think about. Bruce G. Keahey U S WEST Advanced Technologies Boulder, CO "Never annoy anything that you can't outrun!" From jdunkleNoSpam@NoSpamworldnet.att.net Tue Oct 21 20:49:03 1997 Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 20:51:24 -0400 To: Thomas Hundt , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Jeff Dunkle Subject: Cont: GS style Guards for K Grips At 12:07 AM 10/22/97 +0000, Thomas Hundt wrote: > >GS handguards are no doubt a very practical addition and one of >the cheapest things you can get for your BMW. ($26 or so, I think.) > >Are these easy to mount and remove on a K handlebar, say? > >Do you have to remove the grips (PITA) to put 'em on, or do they >clip on around the bar somehow? There is a GS-style set of hand guards made just for K bikes. Show up as a part numbered accessory on the K bike fiches. They require that you remove the mirrors to mount....that's all. The mirror mount thread is the main support for them. Installation is 15 minutes tops. I've had a set on my K75 for some time. Like em just fine. Think they ran less than $28. Jeff Dunkle Monroeville, PA 412-374-1231 Boof #17, K-Whiner #41, SoD *8 President, Four Winds BMW Riders of Pittsburgh Treasurer - BMW MOA ABC, AMA, BMWBMW, MOA, RA, RBR '81 R100, '86 K75T From steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com Wed Oct 22 09:38:38 1997 Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 07:38:42 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. To: Thomas Hundt CC: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: [tech] GS handguards, EZ to put on/remove? Thomas Hundt wrote: > > GS handguards are no doubt a very practical addition and one of > the cheapest things you can get for your BMW. ($26 or so, I think.) > > Are these easy to mount and remove on a K handlebar, say? On the R/RS, they simply mount using the mirror stalks. If you have forward mounted mirrors (on the faring), if you have holes for the stalks, you could probably use bolts. > Do you have to remove the grips (PITA) to put 'em on, or do they > clip on around the bar somehow? No. Just remove the mirror stalks and replace. > I'm asking because I'm sitting here reading about all this > cold-weather stuff, thinking, "That might be a good thing to > have on in the winter and in jungle expeditions, but they don't > exactly fit the lines of the bike for the summer. Wonder if one > can take 'em off easily." The mounts can be left on the bike, although they aren't the most attractive accessory, if you like and the handguards themselves can be removed from the front. However, they go on and off so easy, I don't think it's worth the effort to remove the screws and guards without removing the mounts as well. It's about 5 minutes on, five minutes off. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. Date: Mon, 03 Nov 1997 12:53:31 -0500 From: peterkrNoSpam@NoSpamms.com (Peter Krynicki) Subject: Re: BMW:PARTS:Source needed for nylon/plastic bolts. James Balzrette, Jr. wrote: > > Well, I've finally got most of the bugs out of my 76 R90S (still needs > some *fine* tuning of the carbs) but runs almost like it should, just in > time for the nice riding weather we're having here now (65-70 days, 40's > at night). The problem is it will be getting colder soon and I need to > replace some broken windshield bolts on a Windjammer I have mounted to > the bike ( the S fairing was long gone when I got it) and I can't find > anyone here who has the nylon (plastic?) screws that mount the > windshield. Any source for these bolts would be appreciated as I *know* > from previous experience that steel screws will crack the windshield. > > TIA > > Jim Balzrette > Shreveport, La > 76 R90S Jim - did you find these yet?? Capitol Cycle has plastic rivets ( to mount the windshield for an S or CS) for 0.75/each. Part number is 46 63 1 233 909. They are at 1-800-642-5100. If they don't still have 'em let me know. I think I still have a box of these at home somewhere. Hth Pjk Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 23:50:08 -0500 From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: K1100 Fuel Management At 07:48 AM 11/7/97 -0800, Stephen Syrotiak wrote: > >To those who sweat such things, > >How much fuel in a K1100LT tank (assuming level road) is useable before >fuel starvation occurs? I've run the tank to the point where I've put >4.8 gals in. How much closer to the 5.2 gal cap can I get B4 the line >starts sucking air? Depends partially on how full you fill it. Is the funnel still in? I have put 5.12 gallons into my tank which is rather similar to yours. Run it far down and then carry a small quantity with you, run it out, and get to a station and find out. >Aside from a larger tank, what are my options for increasing fuel >capacity on this bike? Fuel Cells. Talk to Reno BMW. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | To infuse moral concepts into a political discussion is simply to | | confuse the issue.... Morality is not involved in achieving policy. | | - William Fulbright 1959 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Fri, 21 Nov 1997 12:23:38 -0500 (EST) From: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: BMW: K100 Bar Clarification! Hello All, Scott's mail got me thinking and he is indeed correct I was temporarily misled that the Euro K100 Heated Grip kit will NOT work on a K1100RS. The K100 handgrip design is different than the K11 and the two are not compatible. That said, the K100 Standard bar will fit the K1100 grips and bar-end weights and is predrilled for both heated grips and bar-end weights. It runs $59 new. The real bummer in all of this is that the heated grip kit for the K11 is more than the entire Euro K100 standard package - good for you 8-valve K100 and K75 owners that want a low-cost way to heated grips and "C" bars :) I stand corrected. ~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com - TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 1997 07:16:13 -0800 From: Steve Hammatt Subject: Re: BMW: Fabrication Material Supplier Dr.Robert A. Harms wrote: > > Does anyone know of a company that will sell small ( UPS's-able)lengths > of aluminum, brass and steel for fab purposes. Example: > currently I need aluminum rod in 3/4 and 1" diameters but only several > feet of each and can't even buy from local suppliers. In Seattle there is a company called "Metal Shorts" that does this type of business. Metal Shorts 1248 6th Ave South Seattle WA 98134 206-382-0305 Good Luck! Steve Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:54:39 -0500 From: "David T. Buzynski" Subject: BMW: Multivex mirrors I've had a set on my '88 Wing since reading about them in MCN. If they were available for my ST1100 and K100RS I'd have them in a minute. THEY'RE GREAT! They don't distort in the center and almost unnoticeably become convex at each end (more on the outside). If I extend my arm out 90 degrees from the bike I can see my hand in the mirror yet the view behind looks normal. NO blind spots. Zip, zero zilch,nada!! They've become standard equipment on INDY cars. Maybe if enough of us ask the manufacturer (one individual!) he'll make 'em for Beemers. Can't say enough for the peace of mind I get being able to REALLY see everything that's goin on around me. After my Stitch, my best accessory purchase! Dave Buzynski Scarborough, Maine Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 14:02:21 -0600 From: corkreed Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Right hand side stands wcboydNoSpam@NoSpamtelapex.com wrote: > Corky Reed had a right hand side stand on his GS years ago . Think he > still > does . > > Bill Boyd > > -----Original Message----- > From: Duner Tor > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Date: Thursday, December 04, 1997 12:47 PM > Subject: BMW: Right hand side stands Yo!!! He still does, except the same sidestand is on my R100R. There is no problem with the airheads. Roger and his crew at the old Motospezial BMW in Cochrane Alberta,took a piece of bar steel and welded the old Brown sidestand onto it and moved it over the the right side. They used the rear engine mounting bolts from a \5, you remember the bolts went thru the footpegs and hence were lomger. The problem that kept the old Brown sidestand from fitting on the left of the later airheads was because the shift lever was moved and interfered with the mounting of the stand. I have been completely satisfied with mine and now it seems strange to get on one leaning to the left :-)))) Now, on the K bikes with the engine as a stressed member, it is going to take some engineering!!! Je n'ai ce pas!!! Respectfully, Corky Date: Thu, 4 Dec 1997 14:12:32 -0600 (CST) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: Aux Fuel Tank mounting Rather than mounting to the saddle bags, I would get a police solo seat which would allow access to frame points beneath the pillion area. Solid mount the tank there. Are you fabricating the tank or buying one? Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net Subject: BMW: Yet another bitchin' R1100RT accessory! From: Diaz_JonNoSpam@NoSpammacmail1.cig.mot.com at ._datafork Date: 12/15/97 9:41 AM Date: Mon, 15 Dec 1997 09:41:12 +0800 (U) From: Diaz Jon Subject: BMW: Yet another bitchin' R1100RT accessory! To: BMW Mailing List BMW has come out with a two-port power socket kit for the left-side of the R1100RT. It replaces the single-port kit used on '96 RT's (deleted on '97's) with a new mounting plate, extra socket, and appropriate wiring harness. This circuit is fused at 15A, so it should easily handle a couple of vests and a set of heated gloves for a passenger. Cost was about $55. Took about ten minutes to install, longer if you don't want to burn your fingers on the catalytic converter like I did. :) Jon Diaz Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 20:50:38 EST From: WARUSZEWSK Subject: BMW: Re: K bike Krash bars One of the first things that I planned on doing was removing those damn ugly crash bars. While washing the bike (wearing tennis shoes) I backed the bike out of the garage stepped onto fine gravel and in slow motion dropped the bike as I sit one it with my foot sliding out from under me. I looked at the 500 lb love of my life lying there with her mirror popped off. In a fit of rage I picked it up so quickly I almost tossed it over onto her other side. As the bike was up right, I saw a few scratches on the crash bars, saddle bag and mirror. With fairing untouched, never again did I give any thought to removing the crash bars. I may be an Idiot, but I am not an idiot. VIC WARUSZEWSKI MOA # 59993 85 K100RS BMW TCD MOA # 1 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd Motor City Beemers Team K-Basa SoD # 21 BOOF # 121 Village Idiots #21 Broccoli: Breakfast of real champions We'll have some high times, and live them low. Get some fast food and eat it slow. I'm hungry when I get up, and sleepy when I eat. Only time I feel right, I got the road beneith my feet. - The Fabulous Thunderbirds Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 10:12:27 -0500 (EST) From: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: Re: BMW: Re: crash bars >>In my opinion they are not worth a pinch of shit, at the slightest knock they come off and everything else touches down anyway, and then you have to replace the rubber mounts<< Get the Pro-Bars instead. These are black steel bars made for the police K75RT-P from 1994 on, and are firmly mounted to the bike and to each other (left and right). During tests, bikes deliberately dropped at speed just slid on the front and rear bars until coming to an uneventful stop. I replaced the flimsy chrome bars on my 1993 K75RT-P with Pro-Bars, front and rear, and they work well. Don't know if they will fit a K100; call California BMW and ask. - -Bob Morrow MOA/RA Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 09:17:56 -0800 From: Mark Gensman Subject: Re: BMW: Re: K bike Krash bars WARUSZEWSK wrote: > One of the first things that I planned on doing was removing those damn ugly > crash bars. While washing the bike (wearing tennis shoes) I backed the bike > out of the garage stepped onto fine gravel and in slow motion dropped the bike > as I sit one it with my foot sliding out from under me. > I looked at the 500 lb love of my life lying there with her mirror popped off. > In a fit of rage I picked it up so quickly I almost tossed it over onto her > other side. As the bike was up right, I saw a few scratches on the crash bars, > saddle bag and mirror. With fairing untouched, never again did I give any > thought to removing the crash bars. I may be an Idiot, but I am not an idiot. > > VIC WARUSZEWSKI MOA # 59993 85 K100RS > BMW TCD MOA # 1 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd > Motor City Beemers Team K-Basa > SoD # 21 BOOF # 121 Village Idiots #21 > Broccoli: Breakfast of real champions > We'll have some high times, and live them low. > Get some fast food and eat it slow. > I'm hungry when I get up, and sleepy when I eat. > Only time I feel right, I got the road beneith my feet. > - The Fabulous Thunderbirds Vic, on my trip last summer the bike rolled forward off the kick stand in front of a motel (in front of a bunch of Harley guys). Since I have freeway pegs on the crash bars, the bike stopped on the left freeway peg and on the left saddle bag. The bag twisted off the mount. SWMBO did a 1 & 1/2 gainer into the parking lot. We got back to the bike, picked it up and discovered no damage of any kind. The freeway peg took most of the load and twisted around the crash bar. Cheap fall over protection.. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:26:05 -0500 From: "Dendy, John" Subject: BMW: R1100R- Luggage rack/Update on First Impressions (longish) Thanks to all who commented favorably on my previous R1100R write-up. I just got my bike back from it's 600+ service, and now have my Reynolds backrest and luggage rack installed. Several R11R owners expressed an interest in this rack, so here goes: The back rest and rack are chrome plated (black is also available), which goes well with some of the other chrome parts on the bike. However; the style is a little dated. It would probably look more at home on an airhead. This really doesn't bother me much. No, really it doesn't. Well, maybe just a "little". :)) My part time riding partner, full time spouse has pronounced the back rest as "comfy", and that was one of several critical success factors. She also thought it looked all right, so appearance is probably going to be very subjective among R11R owners. The luggage rack is quite substantial and seems large enough to serve its purpose (the second critical success factor). It is 11" wide and 10.5" long (measured from the rear of the back rest uprights). Installation took a while, and required the permanent removal of my rear seat grab bar (bummer). It doesn't affect the System Cases at all. Cost is approx $200, which was the third critical success factor (affordable). I give the backrest and rack a grade of "B" If anyone is interested, I also have some comments about "First Impressions after the initial service interval". If not, please press . Smoothness: Originally graded an A. It is now smoother than it was previously. New Grade? A+. One Prez wrote to tell me that it really gets better and better with more miles... Wow. I can't wait! Transmission: The transmission was graded a "C", because I thought it was clunky. The shop changed the transmission oil, and it now shifts a little better (less clunky). New grade? "B-" Summary (overall) Grade B+ John Dendy '98 R1100R '77 Sporty Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 17:16:45 -0500 From: Brian Curry Subject: BMW: K-Tech Warm Feet and Shins in the Winter Staying warmer on a KRT in the winter Sometime back David Norton popped up with the statement that if you pulled the baffles out of the fairing lowers, you would be warmer riding in cooler temps. This made sense. Why had I not thought of it.... Someone else said that BMW made fairing bottom extensions that would keep the wind blast off your feet. This made sense and I thought I could make my own. Later Sam Lepore ordered a set and told me what they looked like. Very similar to what I made but they extended lower. ( (They also cost $65!!! Now compare that to the cost of making your own.) My next version will be larger that what is described here.. I tried this last year, (96/97) and by golly it works. In fact, when I forgot to put the baffles back in and take the extensions off, I thought I was going to die when it got warm, from toasted shins and roasted tootsies. I did not reinstall them this year until it got cool. The difference in warmth after installing them was very noticeable. WARMTH IS GOOD. So how is this magic performed? ***Fairing Bottom Extensions*** For the fairing bottom extensions, I used a chunk of truck tire flap. I got it for free by asking at a local truck repair center. At the bottom of the fairing, on each side, there is a 10mm headed bolt with a big flat washer that supports the fairing bottom. I used this as a mounting point for the extensions on each side. These are the original, tested, dimensions and are approximate. Remember mine will be larger next time The design was created by cutting a piece from a plastic file folder, holding it in place and seeing if it looked right. So feel free to create your own design. All of these descriptions are viewed from the rear of the bike. The left extension, using ASCII art, had this approximate shape: 4 3/4" _________________________ | | | O (2 1/4") | | (1" down) | | | | | 4 5/8" | __| | / =20 | | Exhaust pipe recess | \ _=20 \ | \ | \_____________________| 2 1/4" The top was 4 3/4" wide and the hole for the 10mm headed bolt was 2 1/4" from the right side and 1" below the top edge.. ("Eyeballed" location.) I cut a recess so the exhaust header pipes would not hit the fairing extension and make a real stink. (Pewwww!!) At the same time, I tried to keep it fairly close to the pipe to keep cooler air from getting to my foot. The top to bottom dimension last year was 4 5/8", but will be longer next year. I rounded the bottom left corner so the flat surface ended about 2 1/4" wide. (You can only do so much in ASCII art.) The right extension, using ASCII art, had this approximate shape: 3 1/2" ___ _________________________ 1" | | ___ | O (7/8" from left) | / (5/8" down) | / | / | 4 3/4" / | / | / | / | / / / / =20 /________________________/ =20 | |<-- 3/4" 3" The top was 3 1/2" wide and the hole for the 10mm headed bolt was 7/8" from the left side and 5/8" down from the top edge. from the right side. ("Eyeballed" location.) The left edge sloped in towards the left to get close to the engine. It started sloping about 1" from the top edge. The bottom left corner was about 3/4" to the left of the top left corner. The top to bottom dimension last year was 4 3/4", but will be longer next year. I rounded the bottom right corner so the flat surface ended up being 3" wide. (You can only do so much in ASCII art.) To do it on your own, first get a tire flap. (Used, and beat up is fine.) Or get some heavy rubber fabric about 1/4" thick. Get some heavy cardboard, or plastic sheet, and make some "trial" flaps. Then hold the cardboard, or plastic model on the tire flap and cut the final version out. I used tin shears to cut the tire flap. The flap is too thick for ordinary scissors. I drilled the hole through the flap into a block of wood. (Better than the table, bench, or your knee. ;);) ) Remove the mounting bolt and its associated large flat washer, put the bolt through the mounting hole with the washer on the outside, and install and tighten the bolt. (Don't ask the torque...) The washer spreads the load and keeps the head from pulling through the flap. The flap will curl a bit due to the shape of the fairing. Go for a ride with warmer tootsies. :):):) I was not able to observe any deflection of the flap at speeds up to about 60-70 mph. Even with runs to the ton, apparently it did not hit the exhaust pipes. (This may change with next years longer model. In which case, it will be "trimmed to fit." ***Internal fairing baffle removal*** On each side of the fairing remove the knee pad. They are mounted by two phillips head screws just below the pocket on each side and one phillips head screw at the very bottom of the internal panel. You can now see the fairing innards. Some models had slots in the knee pads. This is where the warmish engine air will come out. If you do not have these the air will have to make its way between the knee pad and the engine, but in the winter any warm air is better. On the left side you can see the baffle, a multi-planed plastic panel with a circular foam section on the right and bottom edges. It is held in place to the left fairing lower section by two phillips head screws. Remove them and the baffle can be taken out. I also removed the sheet metal nuts the screws thread into and stored them with the baffle until warmer weather. (They cannot vibrate off sometime during the winter. :(:( ) You can see the right side baffle but no screws are visible from the inside. Its mounting is a bit trickier. It is mounted by two phillips head screws that go through the lower fairing panel rear exhaust air vane. (Look between the two vanes and you will see the screw heads near the inside edge of the rear vane.) There are two different mounting style screws. One is easy to remove, the other is a bear. The bear first. The phillips head screw is a fine thread machine screw with a 8mm "sqooshed" lock nut. So to remove it, you need to reach in with one hand and hold a 8mm wrench on the nut and with the other loosen the screw. It is a PITA but it can be done. The easier mounting is uses a phillips head sheet metal screw and two of the sheet metal nuts. These take just one hand and a very short phillips head screwdriver. I replaced the bear setup, with the easy set up, on the bike that was a bear. For those that want to do this, the parts for easy on and off are: Screw:.............46 63 1 453 297 Sheet metal nut:...07 12 9 925 708 For those that are perverse, or to see if you were sent or bought what is a PITA here are those part numbers: Machine Screw:.....07 11 9 928 488 Sqoosh Look nut:...63 14 2 322 408 Once the mounting screws are removed it will come out in your hand. If you have the PITA setup, you will note the plastic is indented for the sheet metal nuts. I remounted the screws in the baffle, so I was only looking for two items in the spring and not six. After removing the baffles I felt around with a ungloved hand and could feel more heat making its way to the rear and my shins. This was done after "The Great Fall Trip". I wish I had done it before. But at least now I am warmer!!! Take a ride and you will find it is warmer. Not necessarily a lot when it is cold, but every little BTU in the right place helps when it is freezing.= :):) For those with LT's, you are somewhat on your own. The knee pads and fairing lowers are mounted differently. There is no large 10mm headed bolt to mount the feet protectors on. Also, the internal fairing baffles are different. They are big foam bits. I have not checked out how to take them out. But if you can get them out, you too, can probably have more heat on you in the winter. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |"The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men | |of zeal ...well-meaning but without understanding." | | =97Justice Louis Brandeis | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 10% #3 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ X-Sender: simmondsNoSpam@NoSpammail.earthlink.net X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0 (32) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 1998 19:30:45 -0800 To: Harris_Gary/ny_technologyNoSpam@NoSpamexplorer.siny.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, ldriderNoSpam@NoSpamusaa.net From: Jeff Simmonds Subject: Re: BMW: '99 Butt Prep Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Jeff Simmonds X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Gary, FWIW, I have a 5 gal cell on the rack of my LT. I have to tell you it affects my handling alot less than having my 7 year old son on the back.. (It is much better behaved and sits still, never leans the wrong way in the curves.. ) Seriously, the effct on handling isn't significant, and I am not one to dog it around the corners.. . besides, after a couple of hundred miles, you move the weight down to the main tank anyways.... As for where to get it, Reno does do a very nice job of installing, etc. if you are going to have it done, I would recommend having it done there if you can get there. If you are just looking for components, there are other sources. It really depends on how much advice you want/need. If you know what you want ot do, Summit Racing has the Cells (RCI vs. the Fuel Safe that Reno uses), check valves, fuel umps, etc. Add hoses, petcock, etc. and you have what you need. Most of this stuff should also be available through your local performance shop... If you want alot of advice, getting the stuff from Jan will make lots of help available too... As for expecting 45-48 mpg from an RS, I hope I never got tht old and slow that I consistently can get that kind of mileage... ;-) You obviously aren't there either. Jeff (happy when the Fuel Plus stays around 40E for a while... ) At 09:42 AM 3/17/98 -0500, Harris_Gary/ny_technologyNoSpam@NoSpamexplorer.siny.com wrote: > > >One thing that plagued me continuosly while riding the '97 Iron Butt >was range...or, more accurately, lack thereof. Before the start, I was >expecting to get 45-48 mpg from my K11RS. As it turned out, most >likely because of the barn-door Aeroflow screen, extra weight, and >maybe even the tiny PIAA 1000's, I was lucky to get 200 miles from one >tank of gas. Stopping for gas every 2 - 2.5 hours is a great way to >throw off your rythm. In the future, I want to stop when I *want* to, >not when I have to. I don't want to have this problem again in 1999. >I'm getting an auxilliary fuel cell. > >Since excellent handling is a priority of mine, I have decided to >install the fuel cell in the passenger area. This position negates the >the influence of the extra weight as much as possible (anybody >dissagree?), sorta like carrying a light passenger. > >Since I'll soon have a Corbin seat, I will soon also have a extra seat >pan. I'm thinking about sending the pan to Russell and have them build >a Day-Long saddle for the driver only, and either cut off the passenger >section or leave it bare. > >Which would be best: > >Cut off the passenger section and mount the fuel cell to the frame > >-or- > >Leave the passenger section bare and mount the fuel cell to the seat >pan. > >My thinking is that if I have the passenger section in place, I will >still have the tail-section covered/protected and will still be able to >use the tail-section storage compartment. Also, after the IB is over, >I can remove the saddle and fuel cell as one component, and re-install >as one component as needed. > >Is the seat pan material strong enough to withstand the mounting of a >fuel cell? If not, can I reinforce it with something? > >Is there anything I'm overlooking here? > >Is Reno BMW *the* place to get what I need? > >Does anyone in the north east have experience in fuel cell >installations? > > > >Oh - Where can I get a Reynolds Rack and what should I expect to pay >for one? > > >TIA! > > >Gary - NYC > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Attachment Converted: "C:\Eudoramail\WINMAIL1.DAT" > > ============================================================================ ===== Jeff Simmonds - Altadena, CA '97 K1100LT AMA #538775 '87 K100RST IBA '76 R90/6 IBMWR '86 GL1200SEi ENA #3 simmondsNoSpam@NoSpamearthlink.net From: EsquireTed Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 16:35:35 EDT To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamlists.ibmwr.org Cc: tkmhansenNoSpam@NoSpamearthlink.net Subject: Re: BMW: Different bars for K100RS X-Mailer: Casablanca - Windows sub 180 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: EsquireTed X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Mark writes: >Continuing my quest for a beemer, I rode a K100RS yesterday which I >really enjoyed except the riding position is a bit forward for my back >and wrists. Has anyone put different bars to provide a more upright >riding position? Mark, Many people have made the "C" bar mod on the K75/K100 bikes. I made this mod on my K75S and discovered a whole new (*much* more comfortable long distance!) bike. I used the European K100 Standard bar (a "C" bar)/Heated Grip/Bar-end weight kit as it was much less than buying the pieces separately. The price, from Lex at Bob's BMW was around $155 and installation was a piece of cake once I realized that I was forgetting to install a small wiring pigtail. All the pieces came in one big Box and the only extra thing I needed was help from Lou "Louge" Conley in getting the wire-ends into the little plastic lock- connectors. I have a tech piece on the IBMWR K-Tech page about installing the bar but did not update it for the heated grips (one of these days :)) >In a way I guess this is sort of motorcycle blasphemy since the bike was >designed for that position but if I can make it more comfortable for me, >I'd buy it. Not at all, I really started to enjoy the bike much more after the new bars - I suppose if you have a 39" sleeve length you might be in a different boat though. For my 33" sleeves it really completed the bike for me. I am sure you will find that whatever bike you buy will demand some tweakes here and there to truly personalize it for your body size and comfort levels. Good luck with it! ~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com - TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr) Washington DC, USA - HOYA JD '94 - Rolling Broccoli Rider IBMWR - BMWBMW - BMWMOA - BMWRA - GG#3 - SoD#7 BMWBMW Newsletter Editor, "Between The Spokes" ~(c)1998~~~~~~~~~ Visit http://www.bmwbmw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Date: Wed, 25 Feb 1998 06:55:26 -0800 From: Mark Gensman Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.02 [en]C-DIAL (Win95; U) To: Steven Huber Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Disabling sidestand cutout on K11LT Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Mark Gensman X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Steven Huber wrote: > Esteemed Prezzes: > > The sidestand cutout switch on my '93 K11LT is _really_ starting to annoy > me and I'd like to disable it. Is it a simple matter of pulling a wire off > the switch or is a 'patch' needed? > > TIA! > > Steve Huber '93 K11LT, '88 R100RX > IBMWR, BMW MOA, BMW RA, IBMC, AMA, G.O.B. #17 > Madison, WI > shuberNoSpam@NoSpamitis.com > "He was a nice guy until he fell off the medication..." On my 95 K, I simply installed a crimp connector between the two wires to the sidestand switch. Shorted the two wires and the bike thinks the stand is always up (switch closed). -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet"