From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 1 20:35:34 1997 From: ALFXRNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 20:11:50 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: BMW "Sidecar Corner" - Airhead oil temperature Reply-To: ALFXRNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com From: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com on behalf of Mark Weiss Sent: Friday, May 30, 1997 10:51 PM To: Bruce Reeves; bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: "Sidecar Corner" - Airhead oil temperature Anyone who is concerned about high oil temperatures should run Mobil-1 15-50W synthetic oil. It will not break down and is will withstand up to 500 degrees. Chevrolet has eliminated the oil cooler on the Corvette, and is now factory delivered with Mobil-1. So, there is no need for a deep sump pan or an oil cooler when you are running Mobil-1. An extra advantage, is that it does not congeal at low temperatures, so you get quick lubrication when starting, which precludes a lot of wear. Personally, I use it in two motorcycles, two cars, a lawnmower, and an edger. Motorcycle Consumer News had a physics professor run a series of tests and found that Mobil-1 was superior in viscosity retention than even the well known motorcycle specific oils. If you feel more confortable with a motorcycle specific synthetic oil, Castrol has one, and Bel-Ray etc. But I personally feel that there is no particular advantage to using them. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 5 19:41:55 1997 Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 18:12:24 +0000 From: "mr. h..." To: Dan Bingley Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Fork Fillers(syringes--very little BMW)/ Reply-To: "mr. h..." Dan Bingley wrote: > > As suggested from many on this list, I've started buying big syringes > from the local Farm & Fleet to fill correct fork/bevel/shaft/etc. oil levels on > my R100RS. ---------triaged------ > Just another uproariously hilarious moment brought to you from the fertile > cornfields of DeKalb, Ilinois. > > Dan Bingley ---------------insert comments here---------------- Why, thank you! As a reason to do the job of filling fork tubes so much faster and cleaner: Please try a baker's sleeve (or pastry sleeve or cake decorator sock... whatever they call that thing!!!). It comes with a variety of tips to fit any fork opening. You can fill up the entire sleeve (or not) and wait for the contents to empty. Another alternative is from the auto parts aisle. A ridged tube-like nozzle that comes with an adapter for a variety of containers (gallon, quarts/liter sizes...) There are many manufacturers. Mine is from ProGard. They're only $2.00-3.00. Aaron of wherever... 88 K75C, 86 R65 (no name bikes...I don't have names for any kitchen utensils...and I can't do without those, either!) "I don't suffer from my insanity...*you* do." From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 6 11:06:54 1997 Date: Fri, 06 Jun 1997 07:36:12 -0700 From: Scott Lee Organization: CAD Toolbox To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: re: Fork Oil Filling , Syringe Reply-To: Scott Lee I tried using the big veterinary size syringes for fork oil filling, and found that I was having to re-fill several times to get the full amount of oil for the fork. I switched over to baby bottles, and it works out fine. The big gerber type, with a replaceable nipple, only needs one refill, is accurate, and gives an acceptable flow rate after openiong up the nipple slits into a 1/4" hole. You have to squeeze the nipple open and closed to keep it flowing, but thats OK.. Good for conversations in line at the store; lady in line behind me "how old is your baby"; me "about 9 years" (I have an 88 K100RS..) strange look from lady, then I explain the use of the nipples I am replacing to her.... Scott Lee Somewhere in L.A. NOT #e I asked the Final Authority about oil. Well??? From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 15:08:43 1997 From: lconleyNoSpam@NoSpamhns.com To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Cc: deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 14:33:22 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW: Time to come clean.. was K spline (again) questions... Reply-To: lconleyNoSpam@NoSpamhns.com Don Eilenberger: > I went to the Texaco web site (www.texaco.com) and tracked down their > product specs pages, and found both the Starplex2 (a red, viscous, > non-moly based lube - primarily made for lubricating bearings) and > Starplex2-Moly. I read the specs for both - they are several important > differences: > Starplex2 (red, viscous lubricant) > 1. Implies it MUST be periodically replaced (suggests grease nipples in applications using it) > 2. No real mention of extreme shock-loadiing (which is an attribute of splines) > 3. Implies it is for use primarily in bearings > 4. Temperature range appeared suitable for our applications > Starplex2-Moly (black, viscous lubricant) > 1. Specifically mentioned suitability for applications likely to be neglected > 2. Specifically mentions extreme shock-loading applications > 3. Specifically mentions plating action of the moly preventing metal to metal contact > 4. Implied it was a more general use lubricant. > 5. Temperature range appeared suitable for our applications Was planning on doing splines this weekend with Amsoil's high pressure Series 2000 grease. Recently painted the steering head bearings top and bottom with it. Will verify the formulation with your findings before proceeding and if need be go see the smiling man with the star. No Campground Bob, the Texaco man! Can you say planned obsolecence? *Excellent* post, Don! Lou Conley Gaithersburg, MD From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 16:50:20 1997 Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 16:01:27 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: K splines - Starplex web pages.. Cc: EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Reply-To: Don Eilenberger I did a little searching, and the following are the web pages I referred to: Starplex 2 (Numba10??) http://www.texaco.com/tlc/products/starprplex.htm Starplex Moly 2 (Experiment?) http://www.texaco.com/tlc/products/starpxmoly.htm The following were spec's that convinced me MOLY is a good thing for this application: Starplex Moly 2: >During heavy shock loading the lubricant film between metal surfaces can be temporarily ruptured or squeezed out. By using a moly grease, a film remains to prevent metal-to-metal contact which could cause equipment damage. The presence of moly is also valuable in dirty environments or when proper re-greasing intervals are not followed. Some moly tends to stay in place and protect metal surfaces even when insufficient grease is used. (Words like 'intervals are not followed', 'dirty environments', 'insufficient grease' and 'metal-to-metal contact' used in the context above - is a good thing IMHO for splines..) >..lubrication points include all types of anti-friction bearing arrangements from plain sleeve-type to rolling element bearings, as well as bushings and other sliding surface or pivot points. (note "sliding" - ie - splines) >In addition to automotive wheel bearing and chassis lubrication, Starplex Moly can also be used in constant velocity joints (CV-joint) in front wheel drive automobiles and universal joints (U-joints). (this also is a good thing - CV joints have sliding splines much like the ones used for the driveshaft of a K.. and they experience the same sort of load conditions - shock and high RPM's. I had originally though about using a moly-based CV joint grease for just these reasons.) >The presence of moly provides added shock loading protection. Starplex Moly greases are formulated to perform well in conditions of high loads and temperature extremes. Additionally, Starplex Moly greases provide excellent resistance to rust and corrosion and are highly resistant to water washout. Since I'd guess that most people don't have a Texaco industrial lubricants distributor in the backyard.. as alternatives, you may want to consider: The moly-based lubricant Honda offers for use on their shaft-driven bikes. I believe it is called HondaLine Moly Spline Lube, but am not dead certain (I didn't go seeking it out..). I have been told by 'reliable' sources that some knowledgable BMW mechanics have used this product with success. (Any mechanics care to comment?) CV-Joint greases? Certainly a possibility. The operating conditions of CV joints are very close to our spline conditions. There are moly based CV Joint greases available - usually it sez so on the tube of stuff, and it's available at most any auto-parts store. It also has the distinctive black color that moly gives a grease. FWIW - most CV joint failures are caused by (1) split boots, allowing dirt and water into the joint, and the lube out and (2) is a failure of the CV joint bearings - I've never heard of one of the splines failing.. Other commercially available moly based lubes.. I used a Dow Corning moly based grease.. it has a somewhat higher moly content than the Texaco product. This probably makes it a bit thicker than the Texaco product, but it's other specs all looked excellent. I would suspect that since the base lubricant (which on the Texaco is a lithium based grease) is primarily responsible for the corrosion resistance, too much moly may lessen resistance to corrosion, or make the grease thick enough that if used on the clutch splines - the clutch action may not feel right. FWIW - mine felt good before doing the lube, and literally became a 1 finger operation (well, at least a few times) after, but this may be partially due to a rerouting I did with the clutch cable when reinstalling it - it now goes a bit straighter, which on a heavy cable will make a difference. Once again - this is an EXPERIMENT on my part. What YOU do is up to you. If you have doubts about the experiment, talk to your trusted mechanic. There are also other factors which MAY cause driveshaft wear.. and several of us have discussed these at length off line and around campfires. A bad (or non-spec, or improperly installed) pinion bearing in the rear drive MAY cause a wobble condition which will eat driveshaft splines no matter what you do as far as lubricants.. excessive moisture or (as Ted Verril proposed/questioned) a leaky pinion seal may allow gear lube from the rear drive to wash lubricant away from the spline, ultimately causing failure. I've offered this just as info to think about.. I don't claim to have 'solved' the spline problem, but I am fairly confident that mine will still be OK when I next look at them. A strong YMMV! Best, ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 18:50:37 1997 Posted-Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 17:11:35 -0500 (CDT) From: "Adam Wolkoff" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 17:13:56 +0000 Subject: BMW: (Fwd) LDRider: Major Spline Questions Reply-To: "Adam Wolkoff" The Spline Issue has come up (again) on the LD Rider list. I found these comments, from Jan Cutler, interesting. Hope you all do too. ------- Forwarded Message Follows ------- Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 08:11:49 -0700 From: Reno BMW Organization: Reno BMW To: ldriderNoSpam@NoSpamusaa.net Subject: LDRider: Major Spline Questions Reply-to: ldriderNoSpam@NoSpamusaa.net CasclassicNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 97-06-10 22:49:53 EDT, you write: > > > > > RON, 60,000+ miles per year, Major, with NO > LUBE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > !! > > > > RON...right on, man. You are 100 % correct. > > Michael. Ron raises the flag and Michael salutes. Others view the red flag waving and question its intent and motivation. For me, I am disappointed that two highly respected long distance riders and acquaintances tarnish their stature and diminish significantly their credibility by such a blatant display of subjective and unsubstantiated drivel. Oh, my brothers, why have you strayed so far from the path of truth? Indeed there have been shaft failures on K bikes. To assume that these are epidemic is wrong; to infer that the failure rate is signifcant is wrong. To imply that there is an inherent weakness is approaching libel. While Ron may claim to know because he rides 60,000 miles a year, my observations and opinions are based on over two hundred K bikes that are in our local fleet. Some of these bikes have over 250,000 miles on them and many have over 100,000. These Ks cover manufacturing years from 1985 through current during which the normal refinements and upgrades have occured, some of which have taken place in the spline area. On K series motorcycles, our shop has had eight spline related warranty claims, two of which were totally ruined or catastrophic, and three additional repairs or replacements in a 11 year model run base. Since the accumulative mileage on these 200+ bikes is (I am estimating) in excess of 4,000,000 miles (or about 20,000 per bike --= and that is probably conservative) and we have had two catastrophic failures, that equates to one Major failure every 2,000,000 miles. Given that we have had 11 total shaft related K bike repairs or warranties, that equates to one repair every 363,000+ miles. And, yes, we recommend spline lube at 40K or every three years. And, yes, I would like to see BMW eliminate this admittedly tedious proceedure, but I do not consider it excessive, nor is it a mechanical weak point on the bike but rather one of maintenance tradeoffs for ownership of a motorcycle that is, otherwise, a delight to own. Given that this posting differs TOTALLY from Ron Major's and Michael Gaspar's, and given the fact that I have always valued their postings, their friendship, our conversations and their opinions, I would ask each to either repent of their verbal excesses or to expand this dialog by posting their numbers -- not their opinions -- specific to K bike splines. What is your hard number data base and how broad is your experience relative to K splines? And, please, let's have no references to magazine articles dredged up from the American journalistic motorcycle slime as your authoratative source least all vestige of your collective credibility suffer. Your turn . . . Jan E Cutler Regards, Adam Wolkoff Saint Paul, Minnesota awolkoffNoSpam@NoSpamnospam.visi.com http://www.visi.com/~awolkoff/FeBUTT.html St. Paul, MN LoRent Racing--Ironbutt 97 #35 *Sponsorship Opportunities Available* From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 09:45:40 1997 From: "drbob27" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 07:24:22 +0000 Subject: BMW: Re: mercury (longish) Reply-To: "drbob27" For those who are interested in credentials: Ph.D. chemist, did research on mercury, including research with dimethylmercury (the bottle never left a 24 hr/day fume hood). Worked for EPA many years developing standards, including standards for mercury. As noted, dimethylmercury is a very toxic form of mercury. Animals can convert metallic mercury to toxic organic forms, including dimethylmercury. Humans do this a little, fish are extraordinarily good at it, which is why mercury contaminated fish are a real problem. Hundres died at Minimata, Japan after mercury was spilled in the water and they ate the fish. I too played with mercury, and in school. Schools don't do that any more, because we know more now. Particularly note the people who need new mercury for their Carb-stix. That's a _lot_ of mercury to have turned loose around your home and loved ones. If you do spill mercury there's a specific clean up procedure. First mechanically gather up all you can. Don't worry overmuch about exposure while cleaning it up, the most serious problem is long term exposure from an uncleaned spill. Mercury tends to go into cracks. Cover the known or possible mercury areas you can't clean up with flowers of sulfur, available at any drugstore without a prescription. Converts metallic mercury into mercuric sulfide, an unusually _non_toxic form of mercury. Things used for the clean up you know to be contaminated should be bagged for a household hazardous waste day rather than dumped in the trash, there's too much mercury loose in the world as it is (the major source these days is coal burning power plants). For myself, I like the following logic. Syncing carbs is a very occaisional procedure, and my K-bike injectors and my Japanese 4 (CB400F) require it very infrequently. I can farm this job out, or I can keep an insidious toxic substance ("mad as a hatter" is a relative thing) in relative insecurity (once again, why do some people need new mercury?) in my house. A no-brainer to me. If you choose to use Carb-stix, try hard not to lose the mercury. This all sounds preachy. Please understand my motivation is your well being, and please forgive me. bob From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 15:19:41 1997 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 14:22:12 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: A bit more on K-splines Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Jim Larsen read my latest post, and offered the following to me (which he allowed me to copy): >When you correspond with Tom you might want to point out that Porsche >and VW had sticking clutch spline problems in the early 60's and issued >Molykote G to all the authorized dealers. Molykote was bought out by Dow >Corning and the moly you used is the equiv. > >At the time we were taught by the factory tech reps to clean the spines >and put a small amount on the male and female splines. Then burnish the >moly into the metal until all you had was the moly color without excess. >This way you never had a sticking clutch again and the moly would not >contaminate the clutch disc material. FWIW - the moly I used was Dow Corning G-n Metal Assembly Paste. Jim had proposed this as one of the lubes he was going to try. He is currently doing some 'in-depth' research on the wear patterns of the BMW driveshaft using tools he has for spline measurement in his primary business (helo and aircraft repair). The results should be interesting since he has started with a brand new driveshaft, and is trying different lubes on it to see what wear patterns result. This should give us some definative answers to what works and what doesn't. I await the results with MUCH interest. I've also found an additional moly grease to consider - from Red Line the web page is http://www.redlineoil.com/cv2ti.htm This grease is actually red in color, containing a red-moly which they claim is better than a black-moly. FWIW.. ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 21:30:32 1997 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 21:13:32 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Avery Frail Subject: BMW: Krytox for Spline Lube? Reply-To: Avery Frail Has Dupont's Krytox been evaluated/discussed on this list as an alternative spline lube? Though I haven't tried it, I suspect one downside is the price: $112.00 a pound. The NASCAR guys swear by it. Also, in a recent issue of european car magazine, the temp of a CV joint on a Porsche 993 RSR was lowered from 300 degrees to 141 degrees by using undersized balls and Krytox. Here's an excerpt: "This Krytox grease..it's the most amazing stuff. You can't get it off your hands. You can't get it off anything. If you put that grease on something and put it in the SK Solvent tank...SK Solvent beads up like water on it! It's a fluorinated grease and they sell some stuff that's just about as expensive as the grease to dissolve it. I'm sure it's not really good for your kidneys, because I know that volatile stuff really accumulates in your system, your body has no way of disposing of most hydrocarbon based solvents, so the levels just build up in the body until they become toxic. The only thing you can do is mechanically wipe it away. There is absolutely nothing that dissolves it, except this solvent they sell. "However, when you give pause to think about it this is exactly what you want in a grease - displacement of water and other fluids, and for it to stay on the part regardless of temperature, and keep right on lubricating the moving surfaces." http://www.lubricants.dupont.com/ From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 13 10:36:46 1997 From: BMWDCNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 10:03:14 -0400 (EDT) To: mgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com, tcoraNoSpam@NoSpampica.army.mil Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: 6,000 mile service. OUCH! Reply-To: BMWDCNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Mark There is a service video available for K-Bikes,walks you through the 5K and 10K service available from Motorcycle video (619-538-8394) or Competition Accessosies(800-872-1269).Cost about $60.00 plus you will need special valve adjust tools $136.00 from CA..Spending $200.00 now will save alot of $359.00's in the future.Its short comings are does not show spline lube. Bob Gaines K75RTA Maybe we could get Daiz or one of the other wrench prez's to make a spline lube video and sell on list,I volunteer my K75 . From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 13 11:56:17 1997 From: "Jim Bessette" Original-From: "Jim Bessette" Original-From: "Jim Bessette" Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 09:00:13 -0600 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: K air filter (was: Re: BMW: re:6k mile service) Reply-To: "Jim Bessette" Mark Gensman wrote: > Tom, once again you're right. Example, it cost $26.00 in labor to change > the air filter. They charged me $22.00 for the filter itself. Does it > take .35 hours to change a filter? I do not know since I have never done > it. I am, however, going to learn. DON'T BOTHER! That $26.00 is worth EVERY cent. I think I've lost years from my life (stress) trying to get that sucker back in. On Jun 13, 7:26am, Scott Lee wrote: > Kinda makes a K&N filter make sense, donnit? In 100,000 miles, thats > $198 worth of air filter (every 10K miles, 9 filters at $22.00), the K&N > costs a bit over $50.00 once. Its yer money.. Yes, I've a K&N too. I took it out just to take a look at it (after only about 10K or so. Won't be making *that* mistake again. Only kidding about not learning to do it yourself. It IS a BIG PITA though. -- Jim Bessette | Experiencing | First BMW '89 K100RS/ABS bessetteNoSpam@NoSpamdrmail.dr.lucent.com | BMW evolution | Second BMW '93 R100GS/PD Westminster, CO. USA | in reverse | Third BMW '68 R50/2 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jun 14 12:13:41 1997 Date: Sat, 07 Jun 1997 11:57:49 -0400 From: Bill To: BMW List Subject: BMW: Starting my Spline Job today, Krytox it is. X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: Bill Well, I have finally decided it's time to begin the spline replacement on my R90/6. I have been putting it off ( I'd rather ride or play ) and I just can't wait any longer. I decided to use the Krytox grease on the splines, I have contacted Dupont regarding grease selection. I think their GPL 217 is going to be the ticket, it has the highest drop point and excellent anti wear props. The 2 ounce tubes are available from Graingers but I don't know if they carry this grade. You can order direct from Dupont and I may have to go this route. Also, Krytox is completely biologically inert, you couldn't find a safer lube anywhere, even Crisco causes problems. Bill > From: Lee Dalton > Subject: BMW: Krytox Grease > From Bill Heckel > Krytox Grease > > Yes, Krytox is AMAZING stuff. > Yes, I would think Krytox may be a good spline > lube BUT if you got it on your clutch plates... > > You used to be able to buy small tubes of this > stuff ( we got it free by the pound ) but I > don't recall where or how small. > > > FREE by the pound sounds great!! WHERE They were a small sponsor of our race team. > I pay about $400 for a small jar. I would have to look to see > the weight??? WOW what grade is that stuff? > It is amaizing stuff and you could not begin to tell anyone what it can do!! > It will do things that no other grease that I found would be able to do.. > But $$$$$$$$ Yes, it's VERY expensive but it will NEVER wear out in anything resembling a normal application. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jun 14 18:48:32 1997 From: "Alan Wagner" To: "Michael Fletcher" , Subject: BMW: Re: Does home maintenance meet warrantee requirements? Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 18:31:07 -0400 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Alan Wagner" Check the MOSS ACT of the 70s,Its illegal for the manufac to refuse warr work because you did your own maint,,just save the reciepts,The burden is one then to prove it was not done ....Thats when Jiffy Lube first started in the 70s They would has the MOSS ACT on there bills..... alanNoSpam@NoSpamrent-a-wreck.com R1100 RT (97) ---------- > From: Michael Fletcher > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: BMW: Does home maintenance meet warrantee requirements? > Date: Saturday, June 14, 1997 4:23 PM > > > Does self maintenance meet the warrantee requirements for scheduled > maintenance? > Has anyone had problems in getting warrantee repairs from BMW when > routine maintenance has been performed by the owner or club members? > > Michael > Chandler, AZ > R 100 Mystic "Memsahib" > > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jun 14 19:28:02 1997 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 04:19:33 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Tom Bowman Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Does home maintenance meet warrantee requirements? Reply-To: Tom Bowman Alan Wagner wrote: > >Check the MOSS ACT of the 70s,Its illegal for the manufac to refuse warr >work because you did your own maint,,just save the reciepts,The burden is >one then to prove it was not done ....Thats when Jiffy Lube first started >in the 70s They would has the MOSS ACT on there bills..... >alanNoSpam@NoSpamrent-a-wreck.com >R1100 RT (97) > > > >---------- >> From: Michael Fletcher >> To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com >> Subject: BMW: Does home maintenance meet warrantee requirements? >> Date: Saturday, June 14, 1997 4:23 PM >> >> >> Does self maintenance meet the warrantee requirements for scheduled >> maintenance? >> Has anyone had problems in getting warrantee repairs from BMW when >> routine maintenance has been performed by the owner or club members? >> >> Michael >> Chandler, AZ >> R 100 Mystic "Memsahib" I don't think that's exactly what Magnuson-Moss says. The way M-M is typically interpreted is to mean that the manufacturer cannot require the exclusive usage of *Their Parts* in warranty work, where equivalent, competitive parts exist. This was deemed to be "in restraint of trade" by the courts and regulators, and OEM's have since backed-off the requirement. Be careful in adopting a broader assumption that *any* user-performed service is fair game: the burden of proof is generally on the _owner_ to prove that A) the service was done at the specified interval, B) that parts equivalent to BMW's were used (always grounds for a pissing contest), and C) that the person doing the servicing was competent to do the work (an ugly interrogatory at best). In the end, it's like rolling the dice in Las Vegas: you pays yer money and you takes yer chance. Tom Bowman Atlanta From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jun 14 19:28:11 1997 Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 19:16:11 -0400 (EDT) From: del To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Oil recommendations Reply-To: del Hi, I am about to give my k75 a much needed oil change. Based on recommendations from the various presidents, I am going to use the Fram PH-3614 filter; however, I am not certain of the oil that I could/should use. I could not find any recommendations on the IBMWR web page(s) What say you my fellow presidents? donnie Donnie Lewis K-Whiner MC #10 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jun 14 22:41:44 1997 Subject: BMW: K100RS Steering head bearings Date: Sat, 14 Jun 97 19:30:11 -0000 From: David Towle To: Reply-To: David Towle >Honest. It's real easy. Takes you about 10 minutes. > >1) Remove switch "pad" (on an RS, at least). 2 capscrews. >2) Loosen pinch bolts in upper triple clamp. 2 capscrews. >3) Loosen locknut on top of triple clamp. >4) Loosen clamping nut on top of triple clamp. >5) Tighten/loosen big knurled wheel under upper triple clamp until there's a >teensy-weensy bit of drag when you turn the bars side to side. >6) Tighten clamping nut and recheck drag (it shouldn't change, but ya never >know). >7) Tighten/re-install stuff you touched in steps 1-3. >8) Go for a ride. After4 following above steps.... and preforming step 8. My bike likes to pull from side to side. What gives? Too much tension on the bearings? Too little? Triple clamps out of alignment? 1985 k100RS with 16k miles. -- Dave Date: Mon, 6 Oct 1997 22:51:13 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams To: Thomas Hundt Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: K-Tech: Steering bearing tightening (Knurl this!) On Mon, 6 Oct 1997, Thomas Hundt wrote: > I did the "tighten steering bearing" operation, following these > E-Z steps posted to this very list: > 3a) Take off the brake line so my big-ass 30mm socket can attack > the clamping nut in step 4. > 7a) Get out the Mity Vac and waste some brake fluid. I am able to loosen my clamping nut with a big-ass Crescent wrench. Just in case you don't want to open your brake line again. > Now, first of all, the knurled wheel is a bitch to turn. As in, > I think I loosened it (got it "unstuck" and loosened maybe 1/4 > turn) and then tightened it again best I could -- less tight than > it was. I.e., I think overall, I may have loosened my bearings! > Darnit. I find it a good idea to put a pencil line on the knurled nut to help tell how much I've moved it. Otherwise its easy to move it around and end up unsure of where it is from where it started. > Even worse, when I tightened the clamp nut (step 4), it seemed to > tighten the bearings. I figure this means I didn't tighten the > knurled thing enough. No, this is just the way it works. The bearing preload always increases when you tighten the lock nut. You have to anticipate this when adjusting the knurled nut and I usually have to make a couple of stabs at it. (I backed off the clamp nut a bit so as > not to get this drag.) No, I didn't torque it, because the > torque wrench is 3/8 and the big-ass socket is 1/2 and I didn't > have an adapter (Murphy's Law). > > Questions: > > What do you shoot for, a "little" drag on the bearings or none at > all? A little too loose and any play hammers the races to death. A little too tight and the steering hunts around and doesn't track right. A little, but not much, drag is needed. The forks should still fall freely from side to side. Cables, etc. make it hard to judge. > What's the best way to turn that #$% knurled PITA? Naturally, I use my big-assed Channel-locks. > I got into this whole mess because my front end shakes at 90mph+, > as if the wheel was out of balance, and God knows when the > bearings were last tightened down. Front tire is new and was > balanced (and rebalanced when I complained) and now I'm thinking > of getting it rebalanced *again* at another shop. I think I need > a rear tire and might get it done at that time (or mebbe wait and > see if the rear fixes it -- butt I'm not holding my breath). Usually, a steering head bearing problem shows up as a wobble, the speed can vary, but is more common around 40-50mph. > Now I think there's a little rattle when going over sharp bumps > -- from the loose forkness? Whole thing feels a little "loose" > (or maybe I'm getting paranoid and imagining things, or maybe > it's OK and just takes getting used to). If by chance you left the head bearings without preload, the noise could be coming from there. Can you hear the noise just by compressing the forks with the brake on? > Advice? Ideas? (Yes, I did tighten everything I loosened.) > > If I don't get a better idea, I'm going to tighten the big-ass > clamp nut some more, enough to tighten the bearings a bit so > there's a bit of drag. Yes I know, this is abusing the knurled > thing (at the least). Another idea is to walk down to Chinatown > (home of cheap, disposable,precision-who-the-hell-needs-precision > tools from Taiwan) and find the biggest pipe wrench I can > find, big enough to get some leverage on that knurled thing. Look for the Big-ass Channel-locks. I think mine came from Sears. While you're at it find a Big-ass Crescent wrench for the jam nut. Be sure you loosen the lower triple-clamp pinch bolts before adjusting the bearing preload. > And what idiot decided it would be a fun thing to route the brake > line through the damned steering column. Whose idea was THAT? > That kludge is getting replaced by direct stainless lines one of > these days (unless somebody tells me there's a good reason not to). > #$%$NoSpam@NoSpam# "elegant" design, my ass. Are all the brake line > fittings compatible in later years? I will probably have to ask > for a later year's set. Try the Big-ass Crescent wrench first. :) Good luck. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net TBC NTCOF NTS K100RS MOA22753 IBMWR BMWDFW LSBMWR Beware of the dogma. From Tom Coradeschi Date: Mon, 25 Aug 97 11:15:15 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi Subject: Re: BMW: A tip and K-bike question Joe Sobczyk: >Now the question: I believe I need to tighten up the steering head bearing >adjustment on the aforementioned 85 K100RS. There are two nuts above the >triple clamp and below the brake line union bolt. Do I loosen them both to >adjust with the knurled knob? How do I torque them and to what value? Yes. The plastic (upper) nut is to retain the brake line. The metal (lower) nut clamps the upper triple clamp to the steering stem. The lower nut should be tightened to (if memory serves) 60 ft-lb (ie, VERY TIGHT). This makes adjusting the bearings very much a trial-and-error process. If you adjust the knurled wheel so that the bearing preload is right on, that 60 ft-lb value will overtighten them. So, you need to _under_ tighten the knurled wheel, torque the nut (I just wail on it with a wrench, since torqueing it would require a clawfoot, etc), check, repeat as needed. Hope this helps... tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 15 19:39:16 1997 Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 16:25:31 -0700 From: Scott Lee Organization: CAD Toolbox To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: re: K&N Filter test Reply-To: Scott Lee The reason that the air horns have "spooge" (a fine airhead technical term, I suppose..) in them is that the K&N filters have oil in the filter material. Some of the filter oil will end up in the intake tract, deposited on the air horn surface. That oil will collect contaminants that make it past/through the filter for whatever reason (smaller than filter minimum particle size, air leaks, still kinda dirty filter installed backwards, etc ...). This "spooge" is NOT, however, an indication or proof of the K&N filters inadequacy as an air filter. As the standard BMW air filter is a dry paper element, there is no oil to collect on the horn walls, and thus no media to entrap the particles which are smaller than the filters minimum filtered particle size. The particles on the walls would thus end up being burned and expelled by the engine, which (to me at least) is worse than being on the intake tract walls... What is the minimum particle size of each filter? I don't know, it would be interesting to know but I really do not care, as my 88 K100RS, which has 64,000 miles of operation with a K&N air filter, has required only one valve to be adjusted .001", and does not use ANY oil between oil changes (golden spectro every 5000 miles). This suggests that there is not a problem with ingested contaminants with this engine. No contaminants messing with the valve seats or cylinder walls tells me that the filter works. The stories of construction equipment having engine damage after switching to K&N filters is urban myth as far as I am concerned. Anybody out there have any FIRST HAND information about this?? Scott Lee Somewhere in L.A. NOT #e From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 16 09:15:52 1997 From: "Rob Lentini" To: Cc: Subject: BMW: Re: Throttle Body synch (longish) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 1997 04:24:32 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" ---------- > From: Kevin Beverage > To: lentiniNoSpam@NoSpamazstarnet.com > Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: Throttle Body synch (longish) > Date: Monday, June 16, 1997 1:56 AM > > Rob and the list, > > I just performed the throttle synch procedure that > is outlined in the May ON. I now have a better > understanding of what the system is doing, as well as > some observations. Rob, if any of these seem off base, > dont hesitate to knock me down a few notches. > > 1) No mention of having to remove the rubber boot > on the connector for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Good find! I should have mentioned pushing back or rolling down the boot. > After removing the boot you need to GENTLY insert a paper > clip (the thinner the better) alongside the red-white wire > THRU the blue plastic surrounding the wires. This allows reading > the voltages off of the #1 wire. Apparently your wires have some sleeving surrounding them as they enter the connector. Mine don't. > > 2) Make ABSOLUTELY SURE that your throttle is completely > closed before loosening the throttle stop screw (no cruise > controls or bar-end throttle locks engaged please). This is an important point. You don't want to be backing off the stop screw and have the throttle cable tighten up. Re: my procedure, step 1. Question: > After loosening the screw, should you 'blip' the throttle to make > sure that the throttle doesnt continue to contact the stop > screw??? Yes, or you can manually turn the cable wheel. > > 3) Make sure you use the throttle stop screw and NOT the > cable free play adjusters to set the partially open voltage > at .370. (this step alone cost me an hour and much of > the precious little hair I have left =:o ) Hah! You are the second person to try this. Glad you caught yourself. > > 4) Are the throttle free play and crossover screws the > same ones that Jon Diaz refers to in his section on > synching TB's in the R-Tech notes at the IBMWR main site??? Yes. The crossover adjustment may be accomplished from the left or right side. There's an adjuster on each throttle body. I like to adjust both to get the adjustment range of each equal to each other, then fine tune the synch just from one. > > I think that is all that I had problems with, but if I remember > anything else I'll let you know. The bike runs better > now than I can remember, including out of the dealer. > > > -- > Kevin Beverage > corwynNoSpam@NoSpamthuntek.net > Albuquerque, NM > 96 R850R "Lewella" > > 'The bugs at night are BIG and BRIGHT deep in the heart > of Texas' I'll see you at Fredericksburg, and in September at Sipapu, Kevin. regards, Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 '94 R1100RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA "Let's RIDE more and politic LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 10:39:36 1997 Date: Tue, 17 Jun 1997 11:22:14 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: K&N, Foam vs Stock Filters Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Since Scott Lee challenged anyone to come up with the 'firsthand' report referred to on K&N filters and construction equipment, and since the same discussion is going around on the BMW cage list, I grabbed the following off the latest cage digest: > Subj: K & N filters > To: John M. Saturday, January 21, 1995 5:14:10 PM > From: George Morrison > > John: If I wrote "subjective" I meant "objective"... I was > responsible for evaluating re-usable air filters > for a major construction/mining company that had > hundreds of vehicles ranging from large earthmovers > to pick-up trucks and salesmen's cars. This study > was embarked upon due to the fact that we were > spending upwards of $30,000 a MONTH on paper air > filters. Using them one time then throwing them > away... I inititated the study in that I was convinced > that a K&N type filter or oiled foam would save us > many dollars per year in filter savings, man hour savings, > and of course engines as these would filter dirt better than > paper. (yes, I had read the K&N ads and was a believer) > > Representative test units were chosen to give us a > broad spectrum from cars right through large front > end loaders. With each unit we had a long history > of oil analysis records so that changes would be > trackable. > > Unfortunately, for me, every single unit having > alternative re-usable air cleaners showed an immediate > large jump in silicon (dirt) levels with corresponding > major increases in wear metals. In one extreme > case, a unit with a primary and secondary air cleaner, > the secondary (small paper element) clogged > before even one day's test run could be completed. > This particular unit had a Cummins V-12 engine > that had paper/paper on one bank and K&N/paper on > the other bank; two completely independent > induction systems. The conditions were EXACTLY > duplicated for each bank yet the K&N allowed so > much dirt to pass through that the small filter became > clogged before lunch. The same outcome occurred > with oiled foams on this unit. > > We discontinued the tests on the large pieces almost > immediately but continued with service trucks, > foremen's vehicles, and my own company car. Analysis > results continued showing markedly increased > wear rates for all the vehicles, mine included. > Test concluded, switched back to paper/glass and all > vehicles showed reduction back to near original levels > of both wear metals and dirt. I continued with > the K&N on my company car out of stubbornness and at > 85,000 miles the Chevy 305 V-8 wheezed its > last breath. The top end was sanded badly; bottom > end was just fine. End of test. > > I must stress that EVERYONE involved in this test > was hoping that alternative filters would work as > everyone was sick about pulling out a perfectly good > $85 air cleaner and throwing 4 of them away > each week per machine... > > So, I strongly suggest that depending upon an > individual's long term plan for their vehicles they simply > run an oil analysis at least once to see that the > K&N or whatever alternative air filter is indeed working > IN THAT APPLICATION... It depends on a person's priorities. > If you want performance then indeed the K&N is the > way to go but at what cost??? > > And no, I do not work for a paper or glass air > filter manufacturing company nor do I have any affiliation > with anything directly or indirectly that could > benefit George Morrison as a result... FWIW - butt it convinced me. ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 20 12:55:40 1997 Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 12:25:15 -0400 From: Bill To: BMW List Subject: BMW: Krytox spline grease choice. X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: Bill I am forwarding this to the list as I think it may be useful to some of you out there. > Dear Bill, > > We received your inquiry about our Krytox greases. I agree with > your choice of our Krytox GPL210-217 series greases. For your > temperature requirements, I suggest GPL215. > > If you decide that an EP additive is not needed, another > alternative is GPL225 which incorporates an anti-corrosion > additive. > > You asked for pricing information for a small tube. Our 2 oz > tubes of GPL greases are priced at $16 per tube. Because DuPont > has an order minimum of $1000, you may need to contact one of our > distributors, such as Miller Stephenson at (800) 992-2424. > > For additional information, please feel free to call me directly > at (609) 540-2917 or call our Hotline at (800) 424-7502. Thank > you for your interest in our Krytox products! > > Best Regards, > > Tracy Daly > Technical Service Engineer > DuPont Performance Lubricants > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 24 22:34:21 1997 Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 15:17:37 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: RE: This note might save your life! Cc: "Jeffrey Harth" Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Jeff suggests after giving a scary tale: >1. Take full responsibility for the machine you ride. I am in the process >of developing a checklist for the bike that I will use before every ride. >As a pilot I would not fly a plane before I inspected it, my bike is now no >different! I would be happy to hear any suggestions. A simple one I've been doing for years on motos - which you'll see if you inspect your plane. Mark every bolt as you torque it, and ask your mechanic to do likewise. I use touchup paint from cars I used to own.. since I have several colors to use, it's easy to change colors when bolts are loosened and retorqued. If you look at your plane - it should be exactly the same. The paint will tell you two things: 1. The bolt was torqued 2. It hasn't loosened. The correct technique is to mark the head, washer if any, down to the surface it is tightened on or in. It's quick easy and has worked well.. well enough that you'll notice new BMW's come with marked bolts - it's BMW's quality control people at work. (Turns out that Jim Larsen and I - during our discussion on spline lubes - found we BOTH did exactly this on our bikes - and he is a pilot and aircraft mechanic.. turns out that our mechanical techniques and ideas were MUCH the same - 'cept we're on different sides of the US). >2. Find a mechanic you can trust. The dealer that installed my tires was >a nice enough guy. Ex-German motorcycle champ, etc. Bob's friend/mechanic >spotted the error from 20 feet away! And he is "only" a "shade tree >mechanic." He can inspect and work on my bike anytime. I take his >recommendations to heart. Any mechanic can slip, or be sloppy. As you mentioned, the ultimate responsibility is YOU. I personally don't trust anyone except me to work on my bikes, but if you aren't mechanically inclined, or don't have the time or space - you may have to trust a mechanic. Best way is to show you DO have standards - and the paint trick will let this message get through real quickly without insulting him. >3. And don't trust anyone. If you can double check it, do so. >So, happy & safe riding. Yup and Yup. >Jeff Harth >85 K100RS - Red (Klaus) >Philadelphia, PA > >85 K100RS - Blue (Hans) >Munich, Germany Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 29 20:19:43 1997 Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 17:01:36 -0700 From: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net> To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: Oil filter too tight Reply-To: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net> Posted this but my server screwed up, sorry if it went through twice. Hi all: I don't know if it was the Wheaties I had for breakfast or what but when I changed my oil last week I overtightened my oil filter (Fram PH6030). Since then I've put over 3000k on the bike (Seattle to Monterey) and it was due for a change. Drained the oil and then tried to remove the filter. I actually thought to myself "This is going to be ugly if I round out the filter." Guess what. The oil got good and drained whilst I pondered my predicament. My solution was rather crude but here it is: I very, very carefully dissassembled the filter from the bottom up after poking a hole in the filter and draining the oil. A _small_ hole, very carefully. (did I already say that) After I had removed the canister, I stared up into the oil filter receptacle for quite a while, trying to envision a tool that would remove the remaining upper ring of the filter, not damage anything, and actually avoid an extremely embarassing trip to the dealer. I had another filter so I found a pipe nipple that fit the circumfrence of the holes in the filter, sawed and filed it into a four-pronged thing that fit the holes and then inserted the nipple into the recalcitrant ring, applied a pipe wrench to the nipple and eventually "voila". I readily admit to being an idiot in this by over-tightening in the first place. I confess to this only because if anyone else OD's on Wheaties and does the same thing, this post might help :-) PS: Wish I could say this was the first time I had changed the oil but tis'nt so, at every 3000k (my peace of mind) I've had lots of practice. No excuse. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX XX XX XX Mark Etheridge R850R IBMWR MOA WSBMWR XX XX "The 2nd Law of Thermodynamics is Inescapable" XX XX XX XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 29 23:53:14 1997 Date: Sun, 29 Jun 1997 23:37:05 -0400 To: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net> From: Jon Zurell Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Oil filter too tight Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Jon Zurell > I don't know if it was the Wheaties I had for breakfast or what but > when I changed my oil last week I overtightened my oil filter > (Fram PH6030). Since then I've put over 3000k on the bike Try placing the filter wrench on the filter. Drill 2 or 3 1/8" holes through the wrench into the filter. Screw #8 sheet metal screws into the holes into the filter. This should help it come off a lot easier. Jon From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 30 02:02:24 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 00:22:51 -0700 To: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net>, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Leah Larkin Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Oil filter too tight Reply-To: Leah Larkin At 5:01 PM -0700 6/29/97, Mark Etheridge wrote: > I don't know if it was the Wheaties I had for breakfast or what but > when I changed my oil last week I overtightened my oil filter > (Fram PH6030) Some hints for the K and R11 masses: first, wet the filter o-ring with *old* oil; new oil will cause the o-ring to stick to the bottom of the crankcase. Since the o-ring is wedged into place on the filter end of things, if it's also glued to the crankcase, it will require more torque to break it loose. Also, when putting the new filter on, tighten by hand until you feel the filter "hit bottom", then tighten another 180 degrees with the filter wrench. This may not seem like enough, but it is. > I very, very carefully dissassembled the filter from the bottom up > after poking a hole in the filter and draining the oil ... trying to >envision a tool that would remove the remaining upper ring As for removing a stuck filter, we, at the shop where I used to work, drilled three or four holes into outer edges of the bottom of the filter wrench, and tapped sheet-metal screws through these holes and into the filter. Then, remove as normal, applying steady pressure rather than sudden torque. -Leah (Toaster) Tank Girl Lemmings Motorcycle Club and Adventure Society From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 30 03:08:42 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 02:55:49 -0400 From: Daniel Quick Subject: BMW: Oil filter too tight To: IBMWR mailing list Cc: John Zurell Reply-To: Daniel Quick Jon Zurell wrote: >> I actually thought to myself "This is going to be ugly if I round >> out the filter." Guess what. The oil got good and drained whilst >> I pondered my predicament. My solution was rather crude but here it >> is: snip "Stuck" filters can often be helped out if you line the filter tool with = a strip of wet and dry or glass paper to improve the grip. Safe Riding Daniel Quick = dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/dlquick Oxford UK Flautist Extraordinaire :-) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 30 10:50:24 1997 Date: Mon, 30 Jun 1997 10:39:39 -0500 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: BMWNoSpam@NoSpamcomet.net (Phil Marx) Subject: BMW: Tire Gauges, again Reply-To: BMWNoSpam@NoSpamcomet.net (Phil Marx) For those still sweating out how to replace the lithium cell in their Schrader tire pressure gauges: Sam's Club is selling a Combo Pack of two Accutire-brand digital tire pressure gauges with one larger size (palm size) and one key-fob size complete with key chain. The price is $8.99 for both. They come with a 2 year warranty and a 10 year warranty on the lithium cell. There is no on-off switch, just press it on the stem and take a reading. The smaller reads to nearest pound, the larger one reads the half-pound increment. Accuracy is stated as +/- 1 PSI + LSD. (I guess that means accuracy is dependent upon the operator's choice of hallucinogen). So far their readings bracket my Accugauge analog unit with the little guy being slightly low (<.5) and the big one a bit high (<.5). And, no, they don't read the same between the two digitals, .5 - 1 PSI diff. From past threads, we know what we are looking for is a relative reading and for the price, you could equip each of your vehicles for about $4.50 each. A cheap cure for the front-end wobbles. I am no longer shopping for replacement cells for the Schrader, which was designed as a non-serviceable item anyhow. -Phil Marx BMWMOA #2024 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jul 5 08:57:51 1997 Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 08:37:54 -0400 From: Daniel Quick Subject: BMW: Bike Maintenance Lift--old back To: IBMWR_EURO Cc: IBMWR mailing list , Adrian Stone Reply-To: Daniel Quick >Date: Fri, 4 Jul 1997 10:42:59 +0100 Adrian Stone wrote: >In message , RICHRPILOTNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com writes >>Do any of you have recommendations for constructing/purchasing a lift which >>can be used to elevate the bike for service ? I would like to save my back >>for long days on the RS, rather than kink it up crawling around the garage >>floor. > >There were some illistrations of a contraption to do this in the UK BMW >Journal a few months back, I will see if I can find it and ask someone >at work to scan it if you like. Sounds exactly what you are looking >for. Could you send a copy to me too Adrian, I am not a member of BMOC GB anymore, and have been wanting a bike lift for ages! Safe Riding Daniel Quick = dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/dlquick Oxford UK Flautist Extraordinaire :-) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 01:45:02 1997 From: "Sobczyk, Joe" To: "'bmw list'" Subject: RE: BMW: Spline problem Date: Thu, 10 Jul 97 01:23:00 PDT Reply-To: "Sobczyk, Joe" George Basinet wrote: >Just finished lubing my splines on my K100RS (1992) and am having >trouble reassembling it. The drive shaft doesn't seem to mate with the >shaft of the transmission. Should the drive shaft mate with the >transmission shaft before it hits the circlip and snapring? It came >apart with a good sharp pull, but doesn't want to reinstall. Any help >would be appreciated > Yes, the shaft should slip onto the first bit of the transmission splines before hitting the clip. Make sure the swing arm is level. Put the bike in gear and gently rotate the shaft while putting forward pressure on it. You'll feel it slide onto the transmission shaft and hit the clip. Give it a firm bump (maybe two or three) with the heel of your hand and you'll feel it slip on. Joe Sobczyk Washington DC USA 81 R65 85 K100RS SobczykNoSpam@NoSpamWashpost.com The opinions are my own, etc From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 18:11:10 1997 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 14:43:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Nicholas To: george basinet Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Spline problem Reply-To: Tom Nicholas George, Here's what I do. Put the transmission in gear (any gear will do). Adjust the universal joint on the forward end of the driveshaft so that it is relatively straight with the rest of the shaft. Mine is stiff enough (he-he) to stay in position. Hold the swing-arm roughly straight out from the transmission - roughly horizontal (you may already have it held/supported in such a position). Insert the drive-shaft into the swing arm (forward end first of course). Often I have to fiddle (technical term) with the shaft to get it to mate with the transmission (putting the trans in gear stops the trans output shaft from turning while I'm fiddling). Once the gears are mated (I know this because the drive-shaft will no longer turn) I place a block of wood over the end of the drive-shaft and give it a good rap with a mallet (pushing the shaft past the circlip). I then tug on the shaft to ensure that it is indeed clipped. VERY IMPORTANT: Take bike out of gear! Hope this helps, Tom. On Wed, 9 Jul 1997, George Basinet wrote: > > Presidents, > > Just finished lubing my splines on my K100RS (1992) and am having > trouble reassembling it. The drive shaft doesn't seem to mate with the > shaft of the transmission. Should the drive shaft mate with the > transmission shaft before it hits the circlip and snapring? It came > apart with a good sharp pull, but doesn't want to reinstall. Any help > would be appreciated > > > Thanx > > George basinet > San Jose, CA > ============================================================================= Tom Nicholas - Vancouver, USA '90 K75RT - techno bike '69 350 SS Sprint - my hardley '55 F-100 - luddite cage Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. - Mark Twain From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 22:50:06 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: "ibmwr" Subject: BMW: K steering head bearing life expectancy Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 18:55:50 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" How long will these bearings last? I could NOT wear mine out. I sold the K with 155K on the original bearings. What to do: 1. Clean, lube, and adjust every 20K. Don't undertighten. That's all! Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 15 23:19:45 1997 Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 23:02:59 -0400 From: "Chris O'Brien" To: garymarshNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: How to "Grease the lower front suspension strut pivot"? Reply-To: "Chris O'Brien" Gary McCray writes....... > Then I got to the part where it says "Grease the lower front suspension > strut pivot". > > I assume this means the lower connection on the front shock, but how? Do > I just remove the bolt, slap some grease on it, and replace it? Not > exactly sure where to apply the grease. Yup, that's the drill. From the IBMWR R11 Tuneup Guide.......... remove bolt, remove bushing, lube inside and outside of bushing with BMW #10 grease, install bushing and bolt (second person at rear of bike helps), torque to 35 ft.lbs. Failure to lube it results in a persitent "CLACK" sound emitting from the front end (at least it does on my bike, an early R1100). Chris O'Brien cmobrienNoSpam@NoSpamameritech.net 94 R1100RS 84 R65"RS" 95 R100M (wife's) BMW Touring Club of Detroit / AMA / BMWMOA From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 16 08:33:17 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: Attn: Don Cuomo Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 05:18:48 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Don: You address isn't working, so I hope you see this on the list. Rob =========== > >What to do: > > >1. Clean, lube, and adjust every 20K. Don't undertighten. > > >That's all! > > >Rob Lentini > >Tucson, AZ > > Rob, I did not post this to the list because I am a little behind with the > digests. You may have already been asked the same questions but here goes > anyway. > > 1. How do you clean the bearings? Remove the upper and lower yokes per Haynes. The upper bearing is on the adjuster, and the lower pressed on the lower yoke shaft. Flush clean both with solvent and pack with EP Lithium grease. Be careful to not dislodge the bearing cages from the roller assemblies or you will have rollers rolling around on the floor! Then rag-clean the interior of the steering stem on the frame and fluidbloc rubber damper, regrease the damper with BMW fluidbloc silicone grease and reassemble per Haynes. > > 2. How do you lube the bearings? Hand pack them liberally with above grease. Spin and repack. Also lube the bearing races in the stem prior to re-assembly. > > 3. How do you adjust the bearings? Per Haynes. Tighten the adjuster knob to remove all free play and keep turning CW until it stops. Turn bars side to side and try to turn the adjuster some more. Then torque the stem and retaining nut per specs after the forks have been installed. > > I have a 90 K75 with 40k. I have never even checked the front bearings. > It has not given me any wobble to date. > > Also, I have not lubed the splines. Am I overdue for this maint. Overdue on both! These are 20K service items, especially the final drive splines. > > TIA Most welcome!!! Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 12:22:43 1997 Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 12:06:24 -0500 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: BMWNoSpam@NoSpamcomet.net (Phil Marx) Subject: Re: BMW: 600 Mile Check Up Reply-To: BMWNoSpam@NoSpamcomet.net (Phil Marx) >I was under the impression that you had to have your service book stamped and >dated by an authorized bmw dealer every time you have your scheduled service >done. Seems to me that now doing this could have dire consequences as far as >your warranty goes??? Am I right, anyone???? Steve The simple fact that work was not done by a BMW dealer cannot void your warranty. It is important that you keep all records of oil changes, parts used, work performed at service intervals, etc., if you do your own or have a non-BMW dealer do the work. Book keeping is obviously easier if the work is done by a BMW dealer but unless the work can be proven to have caused the problem, there is no ground for voiding the warranty. It's a different animal when the warranty is over and the owner asks for some "goodwill" consideration for a problem out of warranty. Good service records with dealer stamps and receipts often pave the way more smoothly for adjustments after the expiration of the warranty and of course there is the advantage of having your dealer's loyalty to a loyal customer when you need someone to go to bat for you in any "gray area". There are advantages to having dealer service, but if you do your own services it shouldn't void your warranty. (Improper tensioning of the alternator belt won't void the warranty on your turn signal relay, FI.) Warranties specifically mention that even using non-BMW parts will not void your warranty but BMW is not responsible for damage caused by using non-genuine parts. Warranty will not cover failure to properly maintain vehicles in accordance with the manual instructions which results in the failure of any part of the vehicle. This is not meant to start a good/bad dealer thread. I assume you would only go to a good dealer. -Phil Marx BMWMOA #2024 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 24 14:09:04 1997 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 14:41:46 -0500 From: "Chuck (Jack) Hawley" Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign To: Ron Bauman Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Oil in flywheel housing on R bike X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: "Chuck (Jack) Hawley" Ron Bauman wrote: > Just finished a clutch spline lube on my '79 R100/7. Easy thanks to > Paul Kalichman's info on the web pages (thanks, Paul!) The good news > is that the splines were in good shape and needing some lubrication. > The bad news is that the inside of the flywheel housing was coated > with a black, oily film with definite oil on the bottom. It looks > like either the rear main oil seal or the transmission input shaft > seal are worn. Gear oil has a distinct sulphur smell. Chances are that it's the rear main seal. > > > According to Clymer's, a special mandrel is required to install the > rear main oil seal to insure correct alignment. Have any prezzes > done this job and is it required or just "nice to have?" or is this a > job better left to the shop? TIA. > > Ron The tool sets the seal to a proper depth. Without it, you can set the seal too deep (where they used to be when they all leaked). You can do it yourself.......if the oil is not dripping on the ground......why do it? -- Charles (Jack) Hawley Jr. Amateur Radio: Chuck, KE9UW BMW Motorcycles: AKA "Jack", BMWMOA #224 K100RS Viki, BMWMOA #18120 K100RS President, IBMWR c-hawleyNoSpam@NoSpamuiuc.edu Sr. Research Engineer Emeritus University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 00:47:20 1997 Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 17:49:05 -0700 From: Sam Lepore To: Internet BMW Riders Subject: BMW: Water pump failures - warning from MCN Reply-To: Sam Lepore In the August issue of Motorcycle Consumer News there is a warning in response to a letter from a Gold Wing rider about successive failures in water pumps. MCN has received letters from over 100 GW owners in response to their request for more information. MCN has done some research and thinks they *MAY* have found the cause ... and I wonder if it could also affect BMW water cooled bikes. They found nearly all of the owners who had a failure flushed their cooling systems then replaced with Prestone or Zerex (mixed with water, of course), *NOT* the Honda made and recommended coolant. "Conversations with chemical engineers at Dupont and Prestone revealed that their coolants contain microscopic silicate particles - like a very fine sand or ground glass - which are designed to 'scrub' rust and corrosion from the surfaces of radiators." The Honda coolant does not contain silicates. It seems possible, if not likely, that the silicates may be casuing the water pump failures, and they are asking GW owners to flush and fill with non-silicate coolant to see if the problem dissapates. The manual for my K75 says "use antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors free of nitrite", but it does not specify a brand (saying only that such coolant is available from your dealer). Without trying to start the equivalent of the auto oil / bike oil discussion, I have to ask: Do BMWs have the same possible problem with exposure to 'automotive coolant'? _________________________ Sam Lepore, San Francisco From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 01:47:41 1997 From: "ynotfix" To: "Don Eilenberger" Cc: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: Re: Ummmm... actually it's 5k ohms.. Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 22:14:48 -0700 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "ynotfix" Don; You wrote: BTW - what surprised me is HOW accurate the wires are.. > using a good 6 digit DVM - they typically measure new within about > 5 percent of spec - which is really good quality (most resistors > used in circuits like TV's and radios and computers are only 10% > accuracy).. I've found that all quality ignition wire is like that. Any two pieces of equal length will be within 5% (or less) of eah other. Almost amazing that something as mundane as spark plug wire is manufactured to such close tolerances. And to top it off the wire has to be able to withstand temp. and vibration! Nice to know that there are results coming from technology. Tony Angco '96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900 '84 Honda XLV750R M/C Krazy " If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...." Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote. ---------- > From: Don Eilenberger > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: BMW: Ummmm... actually it's 5k ohms.. > Date: Thursday, July 24, 1997 7:34 PM > > > Mick offers Jeff: > > >Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 09:13:54 -0700 > >From: Mike Furchert > >Subject: BMW: Rough running R65 > > > >Jeff, Check the resistance of the plug lead, ie remove from coil and spark > >plug, with a multi-meter you should have .05 resistance, if any lower ditch > >the lead. This usually is over looked and believe me if not caught in time > >will cause misery and money. (Is that a country and western song) > >This may not be the problem but its a start > >Cheers from Australia > >Mick 86 K100RS > > Actually - on every BMW plug wire I've ever tested (haven't tested /2 > stuff, but all the ones from /5 up) - they should measure 5 k (thousand) > Ohms - coil end to plug connector. The resistance is necessary for > ignition noise supression and helps to shorten the time-length of > the spark. BTW - what surprised me is HOW accurate the wires are.. > using a good 6 digit DVM - they typically measure new within about > 5 percent of spec - which is really good quality (most resistors > used in circuits like TV's and radios and computers are only 10% > accuracy).. > > Best, > > > ======================================= > Don Eilenberger > Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA > deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com > ======================================= From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jul 26 18:38:32 1997 Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 17:16:40 -0700 From: L G Burnett To: JosephVmanNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Cc: BMWMCNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Changing gearbox oil, a better way? Reply-To: L G Burnett JosephVmanNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > > Last night I changed the gearbox and rear drive oil in my R11GS, added the > Dow Corning M, and I'm pretty pleased with the shifting. I've got a > question: Is there an EASY way to refill the gearbox? Get a small piece of heater hose or fuel line and attach it to the end of the funnel. Buddy Burnett Nashville, Tennessee From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 08:03:36 1997 Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 07:47:34 -0500 From: Mark Ayotte To: L G Burnett Cc: JosephVmanNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com, BMWMCNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Changing gearbox oil, a better way? Reply-To: Mark Ayotte L G Burnett wrote: > > JosephVmanNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > > > > Last night I changed the gearbox and rear drive oil in my R11GS, added the > > Dow Corning M, and I'm pretty pleased with the shifting. I've got a > > question: Is there an EASY way to refill the gearbox? > > Get a small piece of heater hose or fuel line and attach it to the end > of the funnel. > > Buddy Burnett > Nashville, Tennessee I use a "Spill Saver" made by Flotool. It is a 12" piece of clear hose attached to a cap that screws onto the standard 1 quart oil bottle and has a built in twist on/off valve. Mark Ayotte Southington, CT. R1100R R100RT (for sale) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 09:53:06 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "IBMWR" , "Oilhead" Subject: BMW: re: Changing gearbox oil, a better way? Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 06:45:06 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Joe asks: ==== Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 10:27:45 -0400 (EDT) From: JosephVmanNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: BMW: Changing gearbox oil, a better way? Last night I changed the gearbox and rear drive oil in my R11GS, added the Dow Corning M, and I'm pretty pleased with the shifting. I've got a question: Is there an EASY way to refill the gearbox? It took me longer to clean up the mess than to change the fluids! The damn filler hole is vertical, and out of a half-dozen funnels, I couldn't get a single one to stay put, finally resorting to making a cardboard "ramp" and pouring it down inside the box. ==== The easy way is to simply add the appropriate 40cc of Gear Gard directly into the plastic gear lube bottle, shake it well, clip the end of the applicator "tip" off, push the tip into the fill hole and simply squeeze on the bottle until the lube just starts to run out. (bike on the centerstand of course). I picked up some of the infamous Champion plugs at my dealer, and was planning on changing them last night. After popping off the plastic "4-valve" caps and plug wires, I practically needed binoculars to see the plug way down there! The BMW service manual calls for "BMW Special Tool" of course.....Of course I don't have this tool, and my spark plug wrench is much to big to get at the plug. Any suggestions? ==== 5/8" 12 point deep thin wall socket with 6" 3/8 drive extension. regards, Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 17:12:32 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: re: R11 Plugs and Dow Corning Gear Guard M Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:01:11 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Two questions from Steve: ==== Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:34:39 -0500 From: "Steve Allen" Subject: BMW: R11 Plugs I got some Autolite 3923's and put them in my 95R11GS. I did not have any surging or starting problems to begin with, but high speed ping WAS a problem. Cold starts are now definitly more difficult, and it dies a lot after starting. The high speed ping is all but gone. My gs had Bosch 3-prongs, and I gapped the Autolites to .031. Anyone got any ideas as to why the starting got worse? Steve Allen sgallenNoSpam@NoSpamsofnet.com ==== Not one! My RS is a much better starter with the Autolites. All other tuning parameters OK? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 14:38:48 -0500 From: "Steve Allen" Subject: BMW: Dow Corning Gear Guard M What can and cannot D-C GGM be used successfully in, trans, rear end, crankcase,etc? I have an old R100 that 4th gear howls in, any chance it would improve that? ==== Use it in: 1. Front fork oil 2. Tranny 3. Final drive But _NOT_ in: 1. Engine Oil!!! Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 28 11:08:59 1997 Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 11:35:00 -0400 From: "Manger, Ted" Subject: BMW: 600 Mile Follow-Up; BMW Dealer's Service To: "'smtp:bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com'" Reply-To: "Manger, Ted" Prezes, I'm a new (mecahnically-challenged) owner who had the misfortune of needing to replace the front tire and rim (accident) and do the 600 check up on a new R850R after less than a month of riding! Looking at high dealer costs for service so soon after buying new, I was concerned enough to ask prezes if i should consider my old reliable, but non-bmw mechanic for the job. Thanks to all who responded; consensus was 600 check-up was too important to chance to non-BMW so I had my dealer (Westchester BMW) do all the work. When I went to pick up the bike the mechanic had already left and all I had to greet me was a $1,000 bill! Bike looks showroom quality again, but I question some of the costs and the ride feels different -(stiffer). I'm hoping prezes will be able to tell me if I got a square deal, cost-wise and what to expect the bike to feel like after the 600 mile service. A new front rim (3 spoke mag) cost me $495 and Metzler cost $163 and with .70 hours of labor the total was a whopping $700. The 600 mile service cost about $200, most of it in labor costs (2.6 hrs NoSpam@NoSpam$59/per), and all that's listed on the receipt is "as per bmw schedule," oil and filter, seal, seal ring, gasket and hypoid gr oil. The insurance will help, but did i get what i paid for? Thanks in advance. Ted Manger R 850R From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Aug 7 20:45:20 1997 Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 20:22:58 -0400 To: dbrickNoSpam@NoSpamarmory.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) Subject: BMW: Throttle Body Tampering Reply-To: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) X-No-Archive: yes It's been on the list before and, if you need that blue color that is on the TPS and throttle screws use Loctite Threadlocker # 242 or # 24200. Damn, so easy that I'm not even going to sign my name. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Aug 11 10:47:09 1997 Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 10:30:41 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi To: TMFBikerNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com, The Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW: Tranny/Gear lube Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi X-No-Archive: yes Ted Verrill: >I kept BMW dino in the final drive for a few reasons. First, it is cheap >($3.75) and one quart will do two complete changes. Second, I have seen too >many final drives erupt "milk" where clean oil once resided (I think water >gets in through the vent hole?) Lastly, I have decided to change the final >drive along with every oil change. Hey, as Don Graling once told me when >talking about using new crush washers every time, " 25 cents is pretty cheap >insurance." In this case, it is another $2.50 every 3,000 miles for the same >peace of mind. Yikes. Save your $2.50, Ted. Buy some beer. Really. The final drive is about the most understressed (in terms of lubricants) element in the entire drivetrain. >Coolant....use the BMW stuff. Apparently there was some recent article in >MCN or some other rag about micro-silica that is used in conventional coolant >(not in the BMW) that can wreak havoc on cooling systems in the long run. > The bikes in question were Goldwings, but I have been told that it >translates over to the K engines all too well. Nah. I've been running various non-BMW coolants in my K for 11 years now (currently using Sierra). NO problems (OK, the _oil_ pump seal went, so I replaced it and the pump shaft). tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From Clarence Dold Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:52:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Filters, I don't get it. > I'm at a loss when it comes to the aftermarket oil filter issue. You = > spent 10 to 17k on this motorcycle, then are willing to risk trashing = > (or the bike or you) the engine with el cheapo oil filters. Did I miss = I personally wouldn't go for "El Cheapo". On the other hand, the Fram PH6063 appears to be made by the same company in Austria that makes the OEM BMW filters. Even the font used for the printing is identical. The only difference is a BMW roundel in place of the company logo. Fram $8, BMW $14. > Did you guys not read about all the trouble Fram had last year, with = > filters literally blowing apart, thus dumping oil everywhere? This was = > in Roadracing World magazine, and there were several instances. Cause = > was determined to be shoddy quality from the move of manufacturing in = > the US to the far east, Malaysia I think. And the sub-contractor for BMW has never had a defect? The Fram fiasco, as I understand, was a single model of filter, produced in a period of a few days. It could just as easily happen in any plant. It's just supposed to be caught before the product ships. > I don't care if you're on an old bike and are a "poverty rider", this = > seems like a safety hazard to me. Right up there with inadequate safety = > gear, worn tires, etc. Not at all. I don't see how you can compare a major, long career company like Fram, producing top quality product, with a worn out tire. That's simply ludicrous. > I'm all for saving money, using mail order when you have to (i.e. the = > tire issue), and all that. But this one, I just don't get. The savings = > are not great enough to offset the potential pitfalls. =20 I don't do mail order to save money. I buy quality product from local outlets. I have a Fram PH6063, recommended by Fram, on my K75. I am interested in the PH3614, used on BMW cars, as a suspiciously similar filter, at $2.99, but I don't think I'll go for that. If Fram wanted to spec it for use on my bike, then I'd like it. Living in a small town, I need to do mail order due to lack of local availability, but I usually do mail order with Cal BMW, so I don't think that counts ;-) If you are really concerned about risk associated with your filter, I _guarantee_ that I will pressure test the relief valve in a new BMW filter, and then forward it to you, for a mere $100 per filter.... Wouldn't that make you feel safer than that filter that says BMW, but wasn't tested? I know who really made it, and you don't. - -- - --- Clarence A Dold - doldNoSpam@NoSpamnetwork.rahul.net - Pope Valley & Napa CA. From "Rob Lentini" Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 18:49:33 -0700 Subject: BMW: Alternate K/Oilhead fuel filters Since reports are that several of you have experienced fuel filter fracturing in your Oilheads and maybe even Ks, I thought you'd like to know of two alternatives to the expensive stock filter: Deutsch FF424: Same general shape and tube input/output diameter, steel body (strong!), $2-3 at Autozone. I've had one of these in my R1100RS for 20K. Deutsch FF330: Smaller body diameter than 424 but same input/output diameter, will work OUTSIDE of the tank and fit in the tight R1100RS right throttle body area under the tank, $2-3 at Autozone. When changing to this run a metal substitute line in the tank in place of the OEM filter. regards, Rob Lentini '94 R1100RS Tucson AZ H 520-790-8865 W 520-295-6411 Three Flags Classic #205 Instructor, Motorcycle Safety Foundation Director, BMW Motorcycle Owners of America I WILL RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 12:21:49 -0400 From: Jeff Dunkle Subject: Re: BMW: Why is my K75 clutch lever stiff? At 12:22 PM 10/9/97 +0000, you wrote: > >During the past month or so, I've noticed the clutch lever on my K75 >('93 w/15K mi.) is requiring more and more effort to operate. However, >shifting gears is as smooth as ever, and no additional pressure on the >shifter is required. The stiffness is especially noticeable compared to >my '96K11RS that I've only had for two weeks. What's going on here?. > >Bruce G. Keahey U S WEST Advanced Technologies Boulder, CO > >"Never anger a dragon, for you are crunchy and go well with Brie." Bruce, Check your cable, especailly the barrel ends. Last time my clutch started to "bind"....about two weeks later I had a cable break at the top barrel end....in the middle of a rain storm, at a Turnpike toll booth. Jeff Dunkle Monroeville, PA 412-374-1231 Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 12:00:07 -0400 From: Daniel Quick Subject: BMW: K75 stiff clutch "Mike Lukachek" wrote: >Subject: BMW: Re: K75 stiff clutch > >When my clutch action changed with around 10-15k miles, It was the pin that >holds the clutch release lever. Seems the pin was not of the correct >hardness and became notched by the needle bearings. The bearings were O= K >so I just changed the pin and everything has been fine for over 70k mile= s. > FWIW - I lube my K cables every few thousand miles, and the pivot every 6000. On an 8 valve K, this can be acheived without major dismantling; remove RHS circlip drive pin half out to left squirt in chain lube = re-assemble Works for me but YMMV etc. Safe Riding Daniel Quick = dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/dlquick Oxford UK Flautist Extraordinaire :-) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 10:46:38 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams Subject: BMW: Krytox Spline Lube After our lengthy discussion on spline lubes, I finally got around to getting some Krytox #215. This was recommended by a Dupont engineer in a reply to another prez. It is one of the extreme pressure greases containing 5% molybdenum disulfide additive for highly loaded gears and bearings. I contacted Dupont and was again told this was the proper series for driveshaft splines. It is from the series of Krytox #210 through #217, higher numbers being thicker. I had last greased my splines at 76k miles. I now have 97k miles. I thoroughly cleaned the rear splines and degreased them and cleaned the female front splines. All splines appear in perfect condition with no visually detectable wear. The last lube was with ordinary automotive wheel bearing grease which was mostly gone at this point. This series of Krytox is black in color and slightly waxy to touch. It was a little thinner than I was expecting, but likely not too thin. How's that for a subjective evaluation? Anyway, I squeezed a little onto the splines and spread it evenly around on all splined surfaces with a tiny screwdriver tip, rather than just letting the splines push it around during assembly. The 2oz tube I bought will probably service at least 10 driveshafts. I'll probably pull it apart after another 10k just to see what it looks like and will report to the list. Feb or March '98. Dupont referred me to the Miller Stephenson Co which is a stocking distributor of Krytox products. A 1/2 oz tube sells for $16.00 and the 2 oz was $24.00. They don't take credit cards, but simply said they would bill me. Phone 800-992-2424. I also got a sizable package of literature about other Krytox products and safety info. Don't heat it to 500F and breath the fumes. :^) If anyone wants specifics from the literature they sent, just ask. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net TBC NTCOF NTS K100RS MOA22753 IBMWR BMWDFW LSBMWR Beware of the dogma. Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 15:13:59 +0000 From: "Wes Jackson" Subject: Re: BMW: Oil Light at real low RPM? Bruce has a query that I can answer. Yeehaw! > Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 15:01:55 -0600 (MDT) > From: "B. SCHOOLING" > Tech. question that really seems stupid as I write it. Had ezacly the same myself a couple of months ago and asked all over. Finally figured it out for myself so will pass on my accumulated wisdom. I assume your RT has the factory oil cooler, same as my R100. I got lazy and thought I could get away without bleeding the oil cooler when I changed the filter. Next day the oil light started coming on at low rpm, same as yours. Trick is to follow the instructions in the Clymer manual. If you don't got the special bolt to hold the oil cooler valve open, make one as per their instructions. After installing the new filter, filling with oil and buttoning everything up, remove the 6 mm screw from the bottom of the oil filter cover and install the special screw. Remove the spark plugs, connect them to their leads and lay them on the heads so they're grounded. Turn the engine over with the starter until the oil light goes out. Remove the special screw, replace the 6 mm screw and spark plugs and you're done. If you don't got a Clymer, write me off line and I'll write out the instructions for you. Good luck. If your bike doesn't have an oil cooler, you're on your own. Wes Jackson Nanaimo BC Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 16:39:25 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: Back to antifreeze.. Sam sez: >Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 18:14:00 -0800 >From: Sam Lepore >Subject: Re: BMW: Silicate Additives in Antifreeze > >Dennis Kaill wrote: >> >> Just read an article in Motorcycle Consumer News about silicate >> additives that could reduce the life of the mechanical water pump seal >> in liquid cooled bikes. > >When MCN first broke the story several months ago, I brought the >discussion up here also. Then I checked my K owner manual and it said >"any automotive quality coolant". > >Just to be sure, I asked the dealer and I also asked some of the BMW/NA >mechanically inclined employees at the Mariposa Jamboree. > >They all agree that they would like us to use the branded product made >for BMW ... but any auto coolant is ok. > >OTOH, the heavy 'silicate' coolants haven't been around for more than a >few years. Maybe BMW water pump seals are just more durable than Honda >and haven't started to show the same problem - - - yet. >_________________________ >Sam Lepore, San Francisco Sam - et.al.. the SIGNIFICANT difference is in the water pump seal design.. Honda uses a rubber lip seal - easily damaged by any abrasive in the fluid. The K bike uses a mechanical seal - a rubbing metal to mebbe carbon seal.. abrasives aren't going to hurt it - if anything they may lead to a more complete seal.. the seal depends on the two surfaces wearing to each other to seal. Different beasts. Honda's problem is an engineering one.. ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= Date: Mon, 24 Nov 97 10:23:01 EST From: Tom Coradeschi Subject: Re: BMW: K100 alternative spark plugs Jon Diaz: >Geoff Adams wrote: >>?Anyway, I got on the phone and called a few auto parts houses and inquired >>about a crossover for the Bosch X5DC in my '85 K100RS. They all gave the >>same NGK number and one of them had them in stock. So for $1.17 each I >>bought a set of NGK 7912 (formerly D7EA). > >Geoff......I'd recommend keeping a spare set of these underneath the >seat of your bike at all times. I had _serious_ running problems with >the D7EA after about 5000 miles, and no problems with Bosch after 10K >miles and beyond...... Ditto. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> Date: Sun, 07 Dec 1997 21:09:52 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: Starplex-II "MOLY" Wes sez: >From: wjacksonNoSpam@NoSpammail.island.net > >Hi All. Here we go again. Back in November, Don E. posted a >recommendation for Texaco Starplex 2M grease for spines and such. >I've been looking for it but since the demise of Texaco in this part [...] >Wes Jackson >Nanaimo BC Wes - I know the Canadian Postal Service has gone postal.. butt, you can get Starplex-II Moly by calling Bob's-BMW (dunno if the 800 numba works in Canada..). I have been told by 'reliable' sources it's on the counter right next to the Numba10 splooge.. (which sorta sez something - eh?) The Chevron stuff should also work fine.. more moly is prolly better (I actually used the Dow-Corning GN assembly paste which has a very high moly content..). One of the properties you also should look for is corrosion resistance - more important on the driveshaft splines on K bikes - especially ones which are frequently ridden in foul weather. The housing is not entirely weather resistant (but it could be if you used some gasket splooge when installing the rear drive section).. I think it was Paul Glaves (Paul?) who uses a moly based boat trailer bearing grease - it's slightly acidic and tends to remove rust as it forms. Dunno how important this is - I'll find out in another year or so next time I take a look. There is also a company called LubroMoly - who guess what?! Makes all sorts of lubricants containing moly - including motor oil. And their factory is apparently within spitting distance of one of the BMW assembly plants in Germany. I've spotted their stuff in some of the BMW cage mags I get - they make transmission additives (sounds like 'Gear-Guard'), various greases and other good stuff - all with moly in'em. I'll be investigating their products some more as I find time. Anyway - for Starplex-II - call Bob's. Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 10:34:49 -0600 From: garymarshNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Gary McCray) Subject: BMW: Deutsch has a fuel filter for K's & Oilheads Tim Nouis Asks: Has anyone found a aftermarket fuel filter? (snip) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Deutsch "FF424" fuel filter (steel bodied) will fit all Ks and Oilheads, and it cost about $2 at Auto Zone. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Tim: I got the above info. off the list several months ago and have not actually checked it out, but, as with most info. of this kind that comes from the list, it's probably accurate. GMc Gary McCray__"Macarena" Red Metallic '97 R1100RT__Springfield, Illinois USA Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 22:42:03 -0500 (EST) From: Steven Eisenberg Subject: BMW: Oil Filter Discovery I was changing the engin oil in my '89 K100 after the Rose Bowl game(go blue), as I was replacing the filter I inadvertantly grabbed an oil filter from my '76 2002 and spun it on. It is about 2 cm longer than the correct one that is made for the bike. Before I tok it off I thought that I would try to see if the filter cover would fit. It did so just fine. Now I was trying to think why I shouldn't use this filter instead of the bike one. It to was made by BMW for their engines, and it would increase the oil capacity of the engine too. Besides it is cheaper and can be replace by a Fram filter if necessary. My 2002 filters were about $3 cheaper than the K version. Can anyone see a problem with using the larger filter? Steve Eisenberg Comments: Authenticated sender is From: Robert Marceau Organization: Software Kinetics Ltd. To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 13:41:58 -500 Subject: Re: BMW: Autolite plugs X-Mailer: Pegasus Mail for Win32 (v2.53/R1) Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Robert Marceau X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Bosch uses the same designations for platinum plugs as for the regular plugs. Only the last letter is changed to show whether it is copper, silver or platinum core electrode. So look in you Beemer manual for the Bosh number and add the correct letter to the end and order away. The Bosh manual that the parts people should have as a section translating from plug number to English. So do many others such as NGK etc. Very useful when switching brands since they are not standard. (Why doesn't SAE or ISO attack this one?) I tried Bosch Platinums in my old Yamaha before I bought the K75s and liked them. They gave me much easier cold starts and lasted a lot longer. No better performance than a FRESH set of any other plugs, but they stayed that way for quite a while. I would recommend these plugs highly for older bikes with weaker ignition electrics. Rob. > > I'm currently using a pair of Autolite 3923 Platinum plugs in my RT with > good results. However, I'd really like to try a pair of Bosch Platinum. Does > anyone happen to know a cage application for the Autolite 3923 so the dummys > at the auto parts counter can find the correct Bosch plugs? I tried the > cross reference chart but it's lists 6 different Bosch plugs! > > Thanks, > > Steve Heywood > AMA#417841 > MOA#71886 > RA#21291 > IOC#668 > GOB#11 > Pinole CA > R1100RT > > > %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Rob Marceau Software Specialist Software Kinetics Ltd. Stittsville, Ontario K2S 1E7 E-mail: Robert.MarceauNoSpam@NoSpamsofkin.ca Voice: 613-831-2018 Fax: 613-831-1836 Web: http://www.sofkin.ca %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Date: Mon, 16 Mar 1998 22:35:25 -0800 From: Jim Larsen Organization: Larsen Aviation Services X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.0 (Win16; U) To: SLEAMYNoSpam@NoSpamclear.co.nz Cc: bmw-techNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K100 fork leak Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Jim Larsen X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). On Tue, 17 Mar 1998 Simon Leamy wrote: > This topic has probably been covered to death in the past, before I > subbd to the lists. My 16v K100 has leaking seals on a too frequent > basis. It has covered 72,000k and now requires it's third set. No > pitting or dents on the tubes. Is this normal? What are the fixes? For > my Japanese bikes, I just go to SKF bearings and get their seals for a > fraction of the price. Are the OEM BMW seals just terrible? Simon, I went back to something I posted last year regarding seals and am posting this again in hopes it may help you with your seals: One little item I want to pass on to you and others on this list is something that I was taught a few years ago (back in 1958) when I went through A&P school regarding the use of any lip type of seal (aka: garlock seal, chevron seal, etc.) such as those used on most front fork seals. Prior to installing any such seal look at the sealing lip with a 10x or stronger magnifier and most of the time you'll see that instead of a smooth sealing surface it will look like a rocky ridgeline of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The manufacturing process is not exact. Prior to using that seal take a piece of 400 or 600 grit abrasive paper over your finger and with a circular turning motion remove the jagged edge. Now you have a seal that is "broken in" prior to use and 99 percent of the time will not leak. Don't get carried away as it usually takes only one or two soft turns to have a clean sealing surface. You will see the difference with the magnifier. Most of the older mechanics on this thread probably do this without thinking about it. I've changed seals "ONCE" on every bike I've owned and I've never had a leak again. Don't forget to prelube the seals prior to assembly. You might want to buy a third "spare" seal in case you bend/distort/ruin one of the seals installing them. Best of luck with the seals replacement! Jim Larsen K100RT & K100RS SF Bay Area Date: Wed, 29 Apr 1998 22:01:46 -0700 (PDT) X-Sender: jlaiiiNoSpam@NoSpammail.teleport.com X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Shibumi Subject: Re: BMW: NO REFUND IS A CROCK! Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Shibumi X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). At 10:05 PM 4/29/98 -0400, Dendy, John wrote: ..... >I had considered ordering the same cover, but not on their conditions! >I'll probably go for the Airhawk. > >IT'S YOUR MONEY, PEOPLE! > >John Dendy FWIW, an m/c sheepskin seat cover is pretty easy to make. The advantage is that it's way less expensive, even if you have to buy the remant. If you do buy it, you might get a choice of colors. Plus you get a custom fit and attachment method. Of course if you don't like the quality of the workmanship, you can't bitch about it here. Get an ample piece/remnant of sheepskin, trim it to a custom fit, and attach it with Velcroe or elastic sewing ribbing. I used velcroe on a stock R65 saddle, fitting it from front of saddle to the pillion strap and just over the bottom edges on each side. When the R65 bit the dust, the same cover fit perfectly on the corbin solo seat of my R80G/S. I went to elastic for attaching to the G/S. An approximate 4" strip diagonally across each corner fit nicely under each corner of seat. The seat is black so I used black elastic, although you can't really see the elastic anyway. Although there are easier ways to do it, for me the greatest satisfaction was in the material I found. Thought I still had this old sheepskin coat hiding somewhere. It was in pretty bad shape as a coat but had some fine material in it. 'Course I couldn't find the damn thing anywhere. In looking for it, I ran across 2 sheepskin covers for the headrests from a Porsche that belonged to some wealthy Costa Rican former boyfriend of my wife's before we'd met some ten years ago. Hmmm, sez I, time for these pieces of history to be transformed to my advantage. I ripped the seams on the headrest covers and sewed the two big pieces together. The seam runs down the middle of the seat, conveniently avoiding any anatomical pressure points, and is invisible under the fleece. I cut it to fit and now I fart where the boyfriend's head once was. Hers, too, for that matter. Do-it-yourself projects can be very satisfying ...some even more than others. -John __________________________________________________ John Arnold Village Idiot 86 R80G/S-PD Lat44.65 Lon-123.9 BOOF# 100 Central Oregon Coast BALL#1 IBMWR BMWMOA _________________________SoD#29___________________ who invites us to remember: "Live by the foma that makes you brave and kind and healthy and happy." -Books of Bokonon, 1:5