From thundt Date: 25-Jun-97 Subject: PIAA light sources (from Yahoo search on "PIAA") Accessories Plus, http://www.accplus.com/piaa.htm Cartronics, http://www.cartronics.com/piaaindx.htm Superior Auto Trim, http://www.accessrex.com/Superior.HTM From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon May 26 17:28:12 1997 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Mon, 26 May 1997 15:57:03 +0900 Subject: BMW: yellow H-4 bulbs X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 1-5 From: douholmesNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Douglas W Holmes) Reply-To: douholmesNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Douglas W Holmes) Both Chaparral, and Competition Accessories, list amber H-4 bulbs in their catalogs. About $12.00. Doug Holmes Minneapolis, Mn From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu May 29 10:35:44 1997 To: bmwmc Cc: ARKUNTZ From: Louis Conley/HNS Date: 29 May 97 10:06:54 EDT Subject: Re: BMW: Driving Light Wiring - K75 Reply-To: Louis Conley/HNS Al Kuntz asks about wiring switched K75 driving lights: > The alternator output is sufficient to carry the lights as I > have run for hours with both the lights and high-beam on. No problem. The alternator is rated 460 Watts. > I would like to wire these lights into an ignition controlled circuit > so they go off with the ignition key. I have located a white female > plug on the left side of centerline, under the front of the fuel tank > that switched on/off with the key. I haven't figured out what circuit > it's on. The two terminal white female plug is for the heated handgrips. > 1. Will adding lights to an ignition-controlled circuit screw up the > engine management computer? No. > 2. Does anyone know of a good maintenance manual covering the > 1995 K-75? Clymers. > 3. Is anyone familiar enough with the referenced white electrical plug > enough to tell me what part number matches up? Have your dealer look under heated handgrips for the pigtail connector. Lou Conley Gaithersburg, MD From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu May 29 10:52:10 1997 Date: Tue, 27 May 1997 07:32:53 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. To: Brian Youngberg Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: BMW- Aux. lighting for K11LT Reply-To: Mark Gensman Brian Youngberg wrote: > > I've wanted/needed to add some aux. lighting to the LT. This weekend > I saw an RS with want looked to be 2 PIAA lights under the nose of the > fairing. It looked like a nice clean mount, but he was going by to fast for > a detailed inspection. Has anyone mounted aux. lights to their LT/RS. Help > in choice of lights (watts, brands)/switches/etc. would be greatly appreciated. > TIA, > Brian Brian, I bought a 2" wide piece of aluminum flat bar and drilled holes in it that matched the fairing mounting screws under the headlight. I also drilled two holes and used sheet metal screws into the plastic piece that sits around the forks. I mounted a set of 55Watt halogen driving lights that I bought for $49. They are 2 1/2" high and 5" long. I have 6,000 miles on them so far and they work great. I bought them at a local sporting goods/auto store. They really light up the corners at night. -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu May 29 12:58:23 1997 Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 12:13:34 -0400 (EDT) From: Art Campbell To: Chuck Russo Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, Tom Deaver Subject: Re: BMW: Rectangular PIAA on a K Reply-To: Art Campbell Just as a footnote to this, my dealer, Second Wind, just wired in a Euro headlight switch to control my PIAAs. Much more elegant install than using the PIAA switch (although they did use the rest of the wiring harness). Cheers, Art Art Campbell artcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ArtCampbellNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com "... In my opinion, there's nothing in this world beats a '52 Vincent and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson No disclaimers apply. DoD 358 On Thu, 29 May 1997, Chuck Russo wrote: > > Tom, > > I have a K11RS and was thinking about getting some more light up front. > Which PIAA did you use and how easy was it to install? > > > > >I had a PIAA installed under the chin of my > >KLT. IT clears everything and comes on w/ > >highbeam. Real bright! It's a small > >rectangular 85 watt. > > >Tom D. > >High in the Rockies > Chuck Russo > Casselberry, FL > '96 K1100RSA > "It's a sick world, and I'm a happy guy!" > From artcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu May 29 17:24:58 1997 Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:24:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Art Campbell To: Chuck Russo , Thomas Hundt Cc: Beemer List Subject: Re: BMW: Rectangular PIAA on a K On Thu, 29 May 1997, Thomas Hundt wrote: > That's a good idea... > > Do you perchance have a part number on that Euro switch? (Maybe > from your bill?) And, Chuck Russo wrote: > Thanks for the info. You answered another question I had but failed to > ask. With the Euro switch, can operate the PIAA independantly from the > headlight? And I answer both in one swell foop: The Euro switch mounts on the right side switch cluster, just as the left side cluster headlight switch snuggles into the left switch cluster. It operates completely independently from the headlights; the only function on my cycle is the PIAAs (of course you could make it do anything, but KISS is a good rule to live by . . .) The number appears to be . . . 61311459462, but this guy can't write and it's off the third carbon. Cheers, Art Art Campbell artcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ArtCampbellNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com "... In my opinion, there's nothing in this world beats a '52 Vincent and a redheaded girl." -- Richard Thompson No disclaimers apply. DoD 358 > > > o > -_/L> Tom Hundt http://www.slack.net/~thundt/mc.htm > ()7=() '86 K100RS San Francisco CA W=+1-510/873-5440 > > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 09:49:52 1997 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 09:17:29 -0400 To: kalisodeNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: DCMike Schen Subject: BMW: Re: PIAA vs. Trak vs. JC Whitney Reply-To: DCMike Schen >For those of you who have set up PIAA driving lights (wake up, DC Mike), >what are the advantages (if any) to using driving lights from PIAA as >opposed to Trak or JC Whitney? > >In other words, why spend $100. when you can get it for $20? > Dan, don't know about JC Whitney or Trak products (except Trak crap is total junk IMHO), but PIAA products are top of the line! Complete, I mean COMPLETE wiring harness. Relay circuited Three point grounding Waterproof switching Outstanding optics Choice of 55, 85. or even 110 watt bulb outputs Multitude of designs for various purposes Sound customer service Proven reliability (my old K75 had the 1000s on him) These are my own personal opinions. Others will vary!! DCM <><><><><><> K <><><> K <><><><><><> DCMike Schen dcmikeNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com Washington, DC, USA 94 K11RS "Tom of Deutschland" BMWBMW, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IBMWR BMW MOBster " RIDE HARD, PLAY SAFE " <><><><><><> K <><><> K <><><><><><> From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 12 18:44:23 1997 From: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 18:20:58 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: PIAA vs. Trak vs. JC Whitney Reply-To: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com I've used both PIAA and the cheapies, and there's no comparison. PIAAs are made of glass and metal (at least mine are) and a 55W bulb puts out more light than a 100W bulb in the cheapies. Furthermore, you can select the beam pattern that fits your needs, and you can bet that the beam will be uniform in brightness, without the hot and cold spots common in the imitators. Great lights, and well worth the price. -Bob Morrow From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 22 23:08:52 1997 From: "Bruce Watson" To: Subject: BMW: Auxiliary lights Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 22:53:20 -0400 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Bruce Watson" More questions on aux. lights....front this time. Many thanks to those who responded to my last request for information on Hyperlights. Based on your advice, I bought the deluxe set and was delighted with it. Good customer service on the phone, prompt delivery, well designed equipment, and great installation instructions; and no, I don't work for, nor own stock in the company. Vehicles behind definitely notice my brake lights now. Now I am considering increasing frontal visibility with auxiliary lights. I have 86 KRS100 with 480 watt alternator and am now using front and rear Run'n'lites, K Tail and the aforementioned Hyperlights. Can I safely add a pair of front auxiliary lights to this? If so, any recommendations on brand? Have seen ads for Motolight, but $245 US seems kinda pricey or maybe not if the quality is good. Would they overtax my charging system? Any other brands out there to be considered? Thanks in advance for thoughts on this. From bawatsonNoSpam@NoSpamcyberus.ca Mon Jun 23 19:37:16 1997 From: "Bruce Watson" To: Subject: Re: BMW: Auxiliary lights Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 19:33:20 -0400 X-Priority: 3 Tom, All of the mentioned products run ads in the BMW Owners News. Hyperlites are available by mail order from M & G Accessories Inc., (919) 847-6819, 101104 Old Creedmoor Rd., Raleigh, NC 27613. They are good stuff, best safety investment of the bunch. Run'n'lites and K Tail are made and sold by Full Scale Designs, (203) 736-6229, Box 340 Ansonia CT 06401. The run'n'lites convert your turn signals to full time lights. The K Tail increases the brightness of the K rear light. As for Motolites, I don't know much about them other than what is in their ad, $245.00 for a pair of aux. fork mount lights. They have a web page, www.motolight.com, number is 800-567-8346. ---------- > From: Thomas Hundt > To: bawatsonNoSpam@NoSpamcyberus.ca > Subject: Re: BMW: Auxiliary lights > Date: Monday, June 23, 1997 2:27 PM > > Bruce, > > Who makes or sells Hyperlights, Run'n'lights, and K Tail? > > What good is all those 480 watts if there's nothin' using them? :-) > > Thanks, > > o > -_/L> Tom Hundt http://www.slack.net/~thundt/mc.htm > ()7=() '86 K100RS San Francisco CA W=+1-510/873-5440 > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 24 08:50:06 1997 From: ARKUNTZNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 08:32:23 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Ways to be Seen by Cage Drivers Reply-To: ARKUNTZNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com On Mon, 23 Jun 97 10:24:00 MST Straubinger Bob writes: >Regarding the accident involving Andy Skeates dad. > It is a sad fact but we seem to be invisible to auto drivers. >Do you remember a movie called The Looker or Lookers with Albert >Finney? The bad guys had a device that looked like a strobe light and shot off a light ray that stunned everyone into a catatonic state for a few minutes. Too bad we can't attach something like that to our bikes so we can motor along in the sure knowledge that nobody will be pulling out in front of us since they will be in some "never-never" state and will never even know we went by. >> Frank, the owner of TWO (Two Wheels Only) Campground in Suches, GA has attached a strobe light to the front fender of his bike. He was able to find a mount that fit the curvature of the fender and a very small, but very bright, strobe from a surplus warehouse. (I wish I had listened to more details) Some states may prohibit such use of strobes, I don't know. Frank's strobe would be very hard to miss, even for cage drivers! Aside from such a "innovative" approach, I find that florescent green stripes increase visibility many-fold day and night. I know they don't meet current fashion standards, but I put function above fashion any day, especially if I think it will help keep my bride and me alive. Vests with the florescent stripes are easy to get on/off and don't seem to restrict movement or diminish comfort. For whatever it might be worth . . . Al Kuntz Greenback, TN 1995 K-75 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 11:46:12 1997 Date: Wed, 2 Jul 97 10:14:44 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi To: Adrian Stone , The Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW: High watt bulbs Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi Adrian Stone: >I've fitted a high wattage bulb to the headlight of my KRS (88) it's >80/100, now I've been running this for a year mostly with lights on >riding and have started to wonder if the wiring will suffer with the >increased output - any ideas ? The weak link in the system is the highbeam switch. Add to that the fact that the stock wiring is going to give you big voltage drops between the battery and the bulb. Your best bet is to add a set of relays (fused, and wired direct to the battery) to run the lights. Use the existing wiring to control the relays. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 15:12:31 1997 Date: Thu, 3 Jul 97 13:48:28 CDT From: keithNoSpam@NoSpambalrog.dseg.ti.com (Keith Schauer) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, adriansNoSpam@NoSpamsolotec.demon.co.uk Subject: Re: BMW: High watt bulbs Reply-To: keithNoSpam@NoSpambalrog.dseg.ti.com (Keith Schauer) > > > Apologies if this has been discussed recently (I don't save the posts), > and I can't find anything in the FAQ's on this. > > I've fitted a high wattage bulb to the headlight of my KRS (88) it's > 80/100, now I've been running this for a year mostly with lights on > riding and have started to wonder if the wiring will suffer with the > increased output - any ideas ? i have an 87 lt that i run an 80/100 in. last fall the solder on my headlight switch melted, shorting both the high & low beams together. i added relays as described on the ibmwr web site. i just lost my low beam coming home from fredricksburg but i haven't investigated the reason yet. keith schauer 87 K100LT, 80 CB900C plain o, texas El Fiero, RIP - My Arab Friend, Flash - Pinto dod ama ibmwr bmwmoa my company disavows any knowledge of my actions 2.5 %er > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 21:53:14 1997 From: "Tom Deaver" To: "Tom Austin" Cc: "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: Re: Auxiliary Lights for R11RT? Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 19:32:30 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Tom Deaver" Tom, Check with BMW of Salt Lake City, (801) 972-6922. They have a variety of light brackets for PIAA to a selection of BMW's. I have no connection to BMW of SLC, except to be a customer. Some what pissed off at the moment. An unrelated item. Should not effect your light bracket. Tom D. High in the Rockies ---------- > From: Tom Austin > To: 'bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com' > Subject: BMW: Auxiliary Lights for R11RT? > Date: Thursday, July 03, 1997 6:47 PM > > > Sorry if this subject has been beat to death before, but I'm looking for > recommendations for adding supplemental or higher power headlights to > the R1100RT. For example, has anyone come up with a neat way to mount > PIAAs on the RT? Does anyone have experience with higher power bulbs in > the stock headlight? > > Tom Austin > 97 R1100RT From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 9 19:46:27 1997 From: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 17:45:19 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Euro Light Switch & PIAA Lights Reply-To: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com In a message dated 7/9/97 7:43:10 PM, Ted wrote: >In my quest to have a clean and functional PIAA installation on my '95 >K1100RS, I would like to wire them into a European headlight/ignition switch. > I was thinking of the following set-up for the light switch: >position 1, unchanged, all off >position 2, all on including PIAA lights >position 3, unchanged, all on. I've done this on my R11GS using the following algorithm: Position 1: all off Position 2: headlight and park lights on Position 3: PIAA, headlight, and park lights on This involves modifying the Euro switch wiring where it connects to the bike's wiring harness. No mods are made to the main harness, only to the Euro switch. This is done by cutting the position 3 (headlight) wire of the Euro switch, leaving about one inch sticking out of the black connector. The other end of the wire runs up to the switch. Now tie the short cut end to the parking light wire on the Euro switch (so the bike's headlight is activated along with the parking lights), and tie the long end to the PIAA relay coil so the PIAAs come on when the Euro switch is in position 3. I don't have the color codes handy but will look them up and post if anyone is interested. -Bob Morrow From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 10:59:14 1997 From: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 10:18:00 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Euro Light Switch & PIAA Lights Reply-To: RKMorrowNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com In a message dated 7/10/97 2:19:33 AM, I wrote: >This involves modifying the Euro switch wiring where it connects to the > bike's wiring harness. No mods are made to the main harness, only to the > Euro switch. This is done by cutting the position 3 (headlight) wire of the > Euro switch, leaving about one inch sticking out of the black connector. The > other end of the wire runs up to the switch. Now tie the short cut end to the > parking light wire on the Euro switch (so the bike's headlight is activated > along with the parking lights), and tie the long end to the PIAA relay coil > so the PIAAs come on when the Euro switch is in position 3. Due to popular demand, here are the Euro switch color codes at its connector: green/blue: power to the Euro switch gray/blue: from Euro switch to parking/instrument lights (position 2) white/yellow: from Euro switch to headlight (position 3) Procedure: 1. cut white/yellow wire about an inch above the connector; 2. tie short white/yellow stub at connector to gray/blue wire; 3. tie white/yellow end from Euro switch to PIAA relay coil. Incidentally, if your bike has the US switch you will find a set of jumper wires at the connector in lieu of the green/blue, gray/blue, and white/yellow wires so that lights remain on. -Bob Morrow From TAustinNoSpam@NoSpamSierraResearch.com Wed Jul 16 12:35:03 1997 From: Tom Austin To: "'thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net'" Subject: RE: BMW: Auxiliary Lights for R11RT? Date: Wed, 16 Jul 1997 09:36:23 -0700 X-Priority: 3 One of the other IBMWR members told me that they have been running a 80/100 watt bulb in an R11RT with no wiring modifications and no switch problems. My local dealer (A&S in Sacramento) also told me that the stock switch on the new R bikes will easily handle the high watt bulbs. I purchased a 90/130 watt bulb from the dealer and gave it a try. During 300 miles of mostly daylight riding using the high beam, I have had no problems with the switch. Although the high beam is noticably brighter, it does not blind oncoming motorists during the day but make it MUCH easier for them to see me. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Aug 10 20:11:49 1997 Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 16:54:10 -0800 From: Randall Kelley To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: PIAA Questions Reply-To: Randall Kelley X-No-Archive: yes I can't help with the r11 mounting but I put them on my R100 and have had no power problems (and I have WAY less wattage available). I wanted road surface lighting and foul weather lighting so I went low and fog type. The wattage problem would be similar on road lights but I think you would want to mount them high in that case. I mounted them on bars that came out between the uppers and lowers and have been really curious as to where a r11 kind of person would do them. I had thought of the crash bars on the police modle (where they have sirens) as I like mine low for the following reasons: I use mine mostly in real shitty weather (like any time it turns dark) and though I originally wanted them for freeways (as I blind people from behind with my 100watt high beam) but find them great for back roads (surface irregs) and not going into the dark (55 watt lows) when I dim for oncoming. I used the full size car type focused beam with quartz ion lenses, and with the addition of a headlight kill they work as emergency lighting in SEVERE FOG that I would not ride in otherwise. Short term get somewher off the road situations as the legality is questionable. But just for exelent road surface illumination with NO blinding of others I think they are GREAT. Good luck with the mounting, but NO worries with a r11 charging system. Sincerely, Randall Kelley zeroNoSpam@NoSpamrubbercow.com 1984 R100RT & 1989 R100GS can be seen at http://www.rubbercow.com >My friends say I'm ugly. I got a masculine face. >Tom Waits From "Pat Roddy" Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:24:15 -0400 From: "Pat Roddy" Subject: BMW: A visitor from the West (US) [...] We blew about an hour, watching the countless 'squids', racer replica wannabe's, Harley dudes and gals, plus lots of great motorcycles, come and go. Before we headed out, Frank, the owner of TWO, took us back inside to "show us something". "You ever git tired of hearing " ' I am sorry officer, I just didn't SEE that motorcycle' "?, he said. "Yeah", we all nodded in unison. "Well, here's something to make that saying history". He took us over to a table and proudly showed us his new 'creation', and a pic of his bike with the creation mounted. He flipped on a switch, and in the dark confines of the all wood cabin that serves as kitchen, coffee klatch, bunwarming fireplace, and campground living room, our eyes were just about blown out of their orbits. He smiled as we all said "WOW"!!! Frank has mounted a wingtip strobe light on his front fender. "I don't have cagers pulling out in front of me anymore. If I even think they are going to do something stupid, I flip this on and they stop dead in their tracks", he smiled. "Plus", he exclaimed, "you know those jerks who just can't get out of the fast lane, doing 55?" he asked us. We nodded in unison. "Well, they do now", smiling again, proudly. "Worked great heading into Atlanta yesterday. Just pull up behind them, flip on the strobe, and they'll bust their ass to get over. Flip it off and roll right by." Mick asked "Is it legal?" "Hell yes, it's legal, at least here in Georgia. Had a friend in the DOT look at every rule in the book, and there isn't one for this, so it is legal". "It is white, it points to the front, can't be seen from the rear, so it's legal". We admired it for a few minutes, as the images that had been blown into our retinas slowly faded, and Mick, ever curious about electrical data that I still don't always follow, gave it a good going over with a few questions for Frank. [...] From LegalRNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 19:54:31 -0400 (EDT) From: LegalRNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: Re: BMW: RE: Headlight modulator No BMW Hi, I looked into headlight modulators not long ago and was referred to the following who probably have as good quality as anyone and better than most. Suggest you contact them, they really have good looking merchandise. Kriss Industries Motorcycle Procucts Division P.O. Box 35331 Tuscon, AZ 857 40 (520) 629-8800 FAX (520) 622-5995 Larry Miller Wallingford, VT From Glenn Minch Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 10:51:31 -0700 Subject: BMW: RE: RE: Visibility I once followed a rider for about 5-6 blocks on a moderately busy and fairly well lit street at night. The rider had a 'Halo' on his helmet. I found that it wasn't particularly visible under the conditions. I was in my pickup, so this was a good test of how a cager would perceive the Halo. I think the rider was also wearing a Darien jacket. The reflective strip across the shoulders was very visible, far more so than the Halo. Also, the rider was on an R11RS. That one dinky taillight just seems to disappear into the background of (brighter and larger) auto taillights. Without the reflective strip on his jacket, this guy would have been the proverbial Invisible Man. I ride an R11RS, so this wasn't a very pleasant discovery for me. Regards, Glenn Minch From bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 11:52:30 EST Subject: Re: BMW: RE: RE: Visibility Addressed to: Glenn Minch Eric VanDenHoek Internet BMW Riders ** Reply to note from Glenn Minch Thu, 28 Aug 1997 10:51:31 -0700 > Also, the rider was on an R11RS. That one dinky taillight just seems to > disappear into the background of (brighter and larger) auto taillights. That's why I use a bright blue neon license plate frame on the back of my K75. A bright blue light in the middle of a sea of red taillights can be seen from about a mile away. Far enough away that cagers should notice you long before they get close enough for a big, or flashing brake light to be useful. And if it's daylight, the cloudier it is, the better it stands out. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints." From Sam Lepore Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 01:04:46 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: RE: RE: Visibility bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com of Colorado wrote: > > That's why I use a bright blue neon license plate frame on the back of my > K75. A bright blue light in the middle of a sea of red taillights can be If anyone cares ... any visible blue light is illegal in California ... as is a flashing white light (a la airplane strobe mentioned in another thread). Applicable text is below. _________________________ Sam Lepore, San Francisco California Vehicle Code, ref http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/ 25258. (a) An authorized emergency vehicle operating under the conditions specified in Section 21055 may display a flashing white light from a gaseous discharge lamp designed and used for the purpose of controlling official traffic control signals. (b) An authorized emergency vehicle used by a peace officer, as defined in Section 830.1 of, subdivision (a), (b), (c), (d), (e), (f), (g), (h), or (j) of Section 830.2 of, subdivision (b) of Section 830.31 of, subdivision (a) or (b) of Section 830.32 of, Section 830.33 of, subdivision (a) of Section 830.36 of, subdivision (a) of Section 830.4 of, or Section 830.6 of, the Penal Code, in the performance of the peace officer's duties, may, in addition, display a steady or flashing blue warning light visible from the front, sides, or rear of the vehicle. From Don Eilenberger Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 00:15:56 -0400 Subject: BMW: A case for headlight relays on K bikes.. Been having an ongoing discussion with Anton Largiader about installing headlight relays on my K bike, and thought what I'd observed may be useful to some other people.. ================================================================ While planning a relay pack for my K100RT, I removed my 80/100 bulb today and noticed very visible deposits on the inside of the bulb. After thinking about it for a few hours (well, a few minutes, I did think about other things too!).. I've come to the conclusion that the deposits are caused by the bulb running too cold.. if I remember quartz/halogen lights are not supposed to do this 'cause the envelope (bulb) runs hot enough that the normal deposits from a filament are burned off and redeposited on the filament. Only reason I can think of for this behavior is low voltage, caused by current drop over the long wiring path (with too small a wire) that it takes the present setup to get from the battery to the bulb. It presents a *manditory* case for going with relays if anyone is considering using higher wattage bulbs, aside from the high probability of burning out the light switch. Means I'll be putting the 55/60 bulb back in tomorrow until I finish the relay pack. This also explains why I've found it increasing more difficult to see at night (thought it was my eyes..). Just looking at the deposits, I can easily imagine absorption of 30% of the output of the filament. Best, Don BTW - for the person who asked HOW to get the bulb out of their K-RT, I can now answer it with some real-life-today answers.. The owners manual is FOS - the only way I can see to remove the bulb from above the fairing is to first remove the entire instrument cluster - and then someone with a VERY SMALL hand might just be able to get at it. I found the only way I could reach it and get any grip on things was from under the fairing - through the holes the forks pass through. In my case, I'd removed the boots that sealed the forks to the fairing, so there are large holes and I can reach up and get to the bulb. Unfortunately - this also means you're working blind.. so a good sense of touch is gonna help a lot. The bulb is held in place with a rotating ring (leftie-loosie), which can be turned once the rubber sealing ring is moved out of the way. Getting it back in is even more of a PITA since you can't see what you're doing, butt about 45 minutes of fiddling did it. You must exercise care not to touch the glass (quartz actually) bulb itself.. if you do, clean it with something which will remove oil (brake cleaner or alcohol will work). Cotton gloves would probably be a good idea. ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From ken dibnah Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 22:04:06 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: A case for headlight relays on K bikes.. Don Eilenberger wrote: > > Been having an ongoing discussion with Anton Largiader about > installing headlight relays on my K bike, and thought what I'd > observed may be useful to some other people.. > ================================================================ > While planning a relay pack for my K100RT, I removed my 80/100 > bulb today and noticed very visible deposits on the inside of > the bulb. In the dimmer kit I got for my kitchen halogen bulbs, the instructions say to turn the dimmer on full for a minute or more before shutting off in order to re-deposit the filament goo back on the filament...i.e. yer missive on voltage would seem to be gospel. I guess my scoot is a gonna get new relays too. In the past, on cages, I have had good success w/ Volkswagen headlight relays for this purpose. Auto wreckers for .50c or less! I used to just silicone them to some useful flat surface, and if you were going to stress them (i.e. 4 X 100 watt high beams), just remove the metal case in order to provide more cooling (water problems on a scoot, duh, may wish to hide them and NOT stress them??) KRD 85 K100 RS From Tom Coradeschi Date: Wed, 3 Sep 97 11:26:16 EDT Subject: Re: BMW: Relay wiring Mark Gensman: >Next question. I have run a 14 guage wire from the battery to the two 55 >watt driving lights I now have installed. I'm wondering if this is heavy >enough to power both 55 watt bulbs and the 100 watt hi beam. Nope. Run another line. Trying to push 17.5 A thru 14 ga is a no-op. Make sure you install a fuse - as close to the battery as practical. >enough to power both 55 watt bulbs and the 100 watt hi beam. Also, do >those of you who have relays installed put them in some kind of box? I just bolted mine to the inside of the fairing (KRS) below the vent in the right side knee pad. >it would be nice to install only one. Is there a hi/low double pole >relay available? (single power in and ground, two power out and two >switched legs). Thanks. Yep. New Dimensions (water-cooled VW outfit) has them for $12.95 each (a bit dear for my tastes and not easily replaceable if it dies on the road). 800.367.2781 tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From Don Eilenberger Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 12:17:30 -0400 Subject: BMW: RE: Relays Mark asks: >Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 08:04:12 -0700 >From: Mark Gensman >Subject: BMW: Relay wiring > >Next question. I have run a 14 guage wire from the battery to the two 55 >watt driving lights I now have installed. I'm wondering if this is heavy >enough to power both 55 watt bulbs and the 100 watt hi beam. Also, do >those of you who have relays installed put them in some kind of box? I >have a very heavy duty switch installed for the driving lights so I'm >only going to relay the hi/low bulb. And lastly, I bought two relays but >it would be nice to install only one. Is there a hi/low double pole >relay available? (single power in and ground, two power out and two >switched legs). Thanks. >- -- >Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com >95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" >K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Whew - easier if you split the questions with a paragraph return: 1. Box - nope, found relays from a junk bimmer (prolly a mid-80's 5 series) which were encased in a nice rubber cover, and mounted on relay sockets that slide together and lock. Even had the hot power feed bridged from relay to relay. These are 30AMP Hella relays.. single-pole, so I need two of them. 2. 14 gauge big enough - dunno, but I used 12 to wire up my relays for the headlight only (80/100w).. I found some automotive grade (gas, oil resistant - marked on it) stranded copper, a nice green color (BMW traditional power color) with a clear cover over it.. which I then fished inside some 1/8" inside diameter teflon tubing (about 1/4" outside diameter) for additional protection when running it through the frame down to the battery. Wire is cheap. Check your local auto-parts house for something suitable, or even better use marine grade wire - it's fully 'tinned' (plated) to resist corrosion in a wet environment. 3. Single pole vs double pole, or two relays vs one. I drew up schemes for both designs - and it is 'doable'.. but you couldn't pull power for the single relay (the power that goes through the relay to the headlamp) directly from the battery if you use the single relay idea. It would have to come off either the unloader relay or the starter relay (mebbe).. in this case, you're again piggybacking onto circuits which may be close to full load capacity already - so I decided to go with 2 relays. Relays are also cheap (especially if you like junkyards!).. it's the work that's a PITA, so.. Another reason I went with the 2 relay setup (which is awaiting one more part before it goes in) is I want to be able to unplug the entire thing and be able to revert back to the stock setup on the side of the road on the darkest night of the year.. so I've designed it as a module sorta thing. The part I'm looking for (any help anyone?) is a male headlight plug - ie, one that looks like the back of the bulb, so I can wire up to plug directly into the existing plug. I already found a female one so that end is done (that plugs into the bulb from the module). HTH! ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== From Brian Curry Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 19:14:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: BMW: High watt bulbs At 09:37 AM 9/3/97 EDT, Tom Coradeschi wrote: > >Mark Gensman: >>I know 16 guage wire will carry the load of an 80/100. > >And what will the resistive losses be? The fact that the wire is "rated" >for a load (and those ratings are ususally for open air) has little to do >with how efficiently it transmits that power. And what about the losses >from the switch contacts? > >I have measured a 1.4 V drop at the highbeam and a 1.2 V drop at the lowbeam >terminals (relative to battery positive) on my 85 K100RS w/ 80/100 bulb and >euro headlight switch. I found proportional drops with the 55/60 stock bulb on my K. >Put another way, my switches and wiring were consuming 12 W when I ran the >highbeam. They now consume 3 W (numbers approximate) Also, that 9W additional is going to light down the road for interpretation by the eyeballs after being reflected. Light is good. Heat is not. >Install some relays. They're cheap. Much cheaper than a new hi/lo switch, >for instance (about 80 bucks, the last time I melted mine). I also have Jon Diaz's melted K75 harness. While the failure does not seem to be related to high wattage bulbs, when the harness goes, it is ugly. Very ugly..... For information, Jon's FAILURES (He has had two with this bike, cause unknown.) were due to the headlight socket melting. The first time a secondary short did not occurre. The replacement socket when it melted shorted the LO beam to Ground. This melted the harness internal wiring which was a bad thing. The replacement socket wiring insulation was not as tolerant of high temps as the factory wiring and it seems the replacement socket also did not like high temps. Also, I was in this earlier. Even if "your switch" has not failed, it may well be that you are lucky, and someone else will not be so. The switches seem to be the weak link. Plus they have a rotten life. They need to have a small contact area since there is not a lot of real estate to work with. Then they live out doors exposed to the elements, plus water to enhance any corrosion. There are lots of way they can go bad. And then they get hot and the lights go out. :(:( If you do not have problems, consider yourself lucky. Everyone else may not be so. That is the problem with people that get themselves in a pickle and then get out. They talk of it, and then others think that this is normal and they likewise will "get out". But those that get into a pickel and then die, don't get to tell how some VERY, VERY, VERY SMALL factor tilted the scales against them and they died. Dead men don't tell tales. Survivor do. The problem with survivor tales is determining if it is luck, or was it some critcal factor. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | "Without data, you're just another opinion." | | -Jim Clarke (Manager, engine controls Ford Motor Co.) | | | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA | | The 9.25 cents a minute guy, USA SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From Derrick Salmon Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 21:06:36 -1000 Subject: BMW: R1100RT failure and repair Last I reported here the left side turn signals on my R11RT rebuild project weren't working. Problem was not in the wiring so things fairly quickly reduced to the flasher unit in the fuse box under the seat. A new flasher unit costs around $140.00 and used ones are hard to come by since apparently the original units suffered from a design flaw (more on this later). Well, I don't part with $140 for a little flasher box easily so I opened the flasher unit up. Inside is a small surface-mount circuit board with an impressive array of devices (including a small processor!) to implement a lamp flasher circuit ! (No wonder it costs $140). Anyway, at the upper left there are two small power MOSFETS - one to drive each of the right and left turn signal circuits. I unsoldered the left drive FET and purchased a replacement from NEWARK (device cost - $1.48). The MOSFET in question is a Harris D16N05. Got the replacement today, installed it and tested the flasher - and IT WORKS !!! One catch though. NEWARK has a minimum order of $25 so I ended up with 15 FETs. Counting spares that's about 12 too many. So, if any of you experience loss of flashers on one side or other of the bike AND your bike is past warranty (as mine obviously is) I'll be glad to send you gratis a FET or two until they're used up. Oh, yeah - the design flaw ? Well the FET is not over current protected in any way. The drain is connected directly to +12V. The source goes off to the turn signal bulbs which on the other side are connected to ground, and the gate is connected to the logic circuit which sets the flash rate. If the bulb connection at one of the lamps is momentarily shorted - say while changing bulbs - with the power on, the FET will surely blow long before the fuse has a chance to react. Simple, effective, but not very forgiving. Derrick From Paul Meredith Date: Thu, 4 Sep 1997 10:22:10 -0400 Subject: RE: BMW: High watt bulbs >Bob Morrow wrote: >As soon as I realized this, the 60/55 bulb went back into the K75. Just a reminder to all interested in High output headlights.... Bob DeHaney wrote earlier this year about some new bulbs from Phillips that were 30% brighter than standard H-4's >The Philips H4 "Premium" bulb is part number 123442 CR it is a 65 Hi 55 Lo Watt Beam. >Bob in Munich >K1100RS I ordered some from Wudo and they are great! Extra light! without the worry of slow cooking the wiring. I just haven't found a US source. (anyone in Canada?) Paul Paul Meredith K-1, R11RT, MOA,RA,OH,AMA Life, Merrimack, New Hampshire meredithNoSpam@NoSpammail.dec.com From "Michael Lipke" Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 21:38:15 -0500 Subject: BMW: More visible brake lights I have always been concerned about the ability of four wheelers to see my brake light on a bright sunny day, especially when the tail light is on already. Maybe this is an old idea, but I just thought of it. I bought two of the small LED flashers that bicyclists often have on the back of their bikes. They are under $5 at radio shack, or about $10 at a bike store. These run on two AA batteries, so they are designed for 3 volts. I took the batteries out, and soldered wires to the + and - wires, and ran the wires out through a hole drilled in the back of the case. Mounted the flashers on the rear of my cherry R60/5, and ran the wires to the tank area. Hooked them up to a $12 widget that radio shack sells to convert 12v DC to 3v DC. I found that with a little immagination, this widget fits in the main frame tube, and a dab or two of silicone keeps it there. (Also siliconed the holes in the back of the LED cases where the wires exit.) Hooked the 12v leads of the converter to the ground and to the brake light wire, and the 3v output of the converter to the wires coming from the LED flashers in the back. The converter only gets power when the brake is applied, and therefore the LED's come on when the brake is applied. Boy, are they visible!! Stopped by the local police station to get their opinion and they liked what they saw. From DSS38NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 11:48:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Brake lights I remember hearing on a npr news report that red strobe lights on bicycles were suspected of causing accidents by causing drivers to fixate on the strobe and steer into the bicycle. Don't mean to rain on your parade, but if this is true, one might want to at least try to get some more information before going to strobing stop lights. Dean Sanders Austin, TX R100GS From Mike Nolan Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 05:24:37 Subject: Re: BMW: Brake lights >Don Eilenberger continues the thread about "fixation" on flashing red >lights....and Hyperlites: > >>Hyperlites work - and bet you won't find one person on this list who >>has them who will say otherwise. At 10:40 PM 9/7/97 -0400, Jeff Dunkle wrote: >I have Hyperlites on my scoot...and wouldn't be without them. ..... > "My" take is that a vehicle with "just" the flashing lights will >present a possible fixation target for a following driver..... > I also have twin filament turn signals, and 3M reflective tape >in various places. I ordered my Hyperlites the _next day_ after I got home from riding behind Jeff in Savannah and Hilton Head last December. I got the dual 2x16 LED's so I can laser blast your eye out too. I would suggest that anyone who is questions if they should install them, ride behind somebody who has them in some moderate to heavy, stop and go traffic. Made a believer out me. Mike Nolan '95 K1100LT Dallas, GA From doldNoSpam@NoSpamrahul.net Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:46:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Dean Sanders' Quandary on Hyper-Lites Mark opines: > traffic. I believe that the assertion that Bright Lights Save Lives is only > barely more ludicrous than the assertion that Loud Pipes Save Lives. I do agree with the headlight part. I find it obnoxious to have someone riding toward me with their high beams on during the day, so as to be more visible. > So there. > >experiment? What can you tell us of those experiments using strobe lights? What can I say about the strobe light experiments? I had to watch about a half hour government video as part of some ISO standards design class. The magical flash rate is something faster than 5 per second to trigger seizures, and around once per second to attract drunk drivers. The California Highway Patrol used to be a magnet for drunks, when stopped alongside the road. They used to have a single amber light, flashing at about once per second. Drunks homed in on that like a beacon. Some CHP thought they were being mistaken for the warning flasher found on some off-ramps, and that the drunks were trying to get off the freeway at the non-existent exit, and clipping the car. Then they went to more elaborate lights, now with blue red, white, and amber directionals.... Of course, now I can't see past the glare to tell if they just have someone pulled over for speeding, or if there is a major wreck closing the road... Thanks a lot for blinding me. I really think Hyperlites should have ambient light sensors. You don't need as much candlepower at night as you do during the day. - --- Clarence A Dold - doldNoSpam@NoSpamnetwork.rahul.net - Pope Valley & Napa CA. From "John A. Brown" Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:27:53 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW: Hyper-Lite Cut Off While Stopped >So far, the only switch I can find is at Radio Shack (yech) >and is a SPST Momentary Pushbutton Switch, NORMALLY CLOSED >(Single Pole Single Throw, current flows UNTIL you push the button). >Catalog Number 275-1548, 0.5A at 125VAC >(Number 275-1547 is the same switch, NORMALLY OPEN) >Apparently, a normally closed momentary switch is a rare animal Maybe to Radio Shack dweebs it is! A really good source for these items (and cheap prices) is DigiKey 1-800-344-4539 and then I try Mouser Electronics 1-800-346-6873 or The nice thing with these two places is they have a huge stock, and usually knowledgeable people - - you don't need a part number, just a description and they can find it. Radio Shack normally has a larger selection of switches than you mentioned, perhaps your's just doesn't have a good manager. You can get switches in a variety of configurations: toggle switch, momentary contact pushbutton, on/off pushbutton, etc. - -- John A. Brown '87 K100RT Kalamazoo MI BMWMOA #76755 From jcorderoNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 21:29:37 -0400 Subject: BMW: "SOS" taillamp problems - anyone else have this problem? Hi, I have a RS1100 that was modified to use a "SOS" taillamp illuminator. It was recommended to me by BMW Orlando as the better choice over the use of a Hyperlights setup. I installed the unit and everything has been fine until yesterday when I noticed that my left lamp was out. Thinking it the simple burned out light bulb syndrome, I pulled the lens cover and found that the bulb filament looked fine. I continued on to the next step of pulling out the inner white plastic reflector and then tried to remove the bulb, but found it was virtually welded to the reflector socket. After pushing, pulling, and using a little WD40 I was finally able to extract the bulb and discovered that the source of my troubles had been the white plastic reflector having melted around the metal base of the bulb. I was able to "repair" the reflector by grinding down the socket slightly and then reinserting the same undamaged bulb. All is well once again except now I am in search of a more permanent solution. I was wondering if anyone has had a similar experience and if so what they may have done to correct the flaw. The source of the problem is clearly the fact that the signal lamps remain on virtually one-hundered percent of the time when riding and consequently get hot enough to melt the plastic holder/reflector over time. I'm thinking if trying to fabricate or adapt some kind of metal reflector to replace the plastic unit or maybe looking into using a lower wattage bulb that would produce less heat. Any experience pass on in regards to these or possible solutions would be truely appreciated. Thanks ahead of time... jcorderoNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com P.S. - should have bought the Hyperlights kit instead. From Dave Thompson Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:29:18 Subject: Re: BMW: Run 'N Lites; auxilliary signals? At 07:00 AM 9/15/97 -0700, Dan Arnold wrote: > >>Subject: BMW: K-Tail-2 Lights and Type-2 Run'N'Lites >Reminds me: I installed these front and rear on my R11GS about a year ago. >No problems, except a couple of riders who've ridden behind me (Duner and >Darryl Richman, I think) have mentioned there is too little difference in >illumination between the running light and the turn signal. > >Ideas? Anyone add auxilliary, red turn signals to this setup? > > Dan... Use 2357 bulbs vice 1157s. Running light filament is the same, but the high intensity filament is much brighter in the 2357. Hope this brightens your day! :=) Cheers, Dave T. '85 K100 (But I don't whine!) ***From Beautiful Berwick, Nova Scotia*** GOB #14 *** The Apple Capital of the World *** Boys will be boys - And so will a lot of grown men....Kin Hubbard "So many idiots, so few comets!" Do it right - Do it once... Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 08:50:30 -0400 (EDT) From: GWBDMBNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: BMW: saved my butt !! I have never been big on all the flashing " safety " lights for bikes. For what ever reason I always felt they were over kill and or just ugly. That said for some reason while at Fontana I had a set of Hyper lights installed. Yeah, beats me. Several days later I was sitting at a traffic light and from the rear I see a white mini van coming on and showing no sign of stopping. As I was boxed in and could not move the bike I was about to drop the bike and make a dash. The driver suddenly hit the brakes and cut to my right and slid past me on the grass. He ended about 12 feet past me. He jumped out of his van and ran back to say how sorry he was etc etc and was I ok. Then he said that what ever I had flashing on the rear of the bike is what caught his attention and caused him to hit the brakes. I guess i like the lights a little better now. Gately Bartlett Acworth, GA aaaaaaaaoooooooooooOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOooooooooaaaaa Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 08:24:11 -0500 (EST) From: kulowcNoSpam@NoSpamindiana.edu (Carl Kulow) Subject: BMW: 2357 Bulb This is what I have squirreled away on the 2357 bulbs. Carl Kulow - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subj: Fwd: BMW: 97 cent R-bike brake light upgrade Date: 96-01-26 23:49:00 EST From: BMWDUCMAN To: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com To: deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com(doneilenberger) On R bikes that use a 1157 tail/brake combination bulb, a simple and inexpensive upgrade in the brake light illumination is readily available. A 2357 tail/brake combination bulb, available at any auto parts store, will produce the same brightness for the tail light (3 lumens), but will produce 25% greater brightness for the brake light (40 lumens vs. 32 lumens). The volts required to power the 2357 bulb are the same as the 1157, but there is a slight increase in the amps required (2.1 for the 1157, 2.2 for the 2357). The resulting increase in watts used is only 1.28 watts, or a 4.76% increase over the standard 1157 bulb. The only draw back to using the 2357 bulb is the rated hours of service for the brake light element is much less (400 hours for the 2357 brake light element vs. 1,200 hours for the 1157 brake light element). The tail light element in both the 1157 and the 2357 are rated at 5,000 hours. Assuming one rides 4 hours per day, 365 days per year and uses his/her brake 25% of the time, if the brighter 2357 bulb is replaced annually, there should be little chance of in-service failure. Cost for a 2357 bulb is about 97 cents. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Woo hoo! I (mostly) lurk on this list for three years, waiting to be lighting geek, and here is my big opportunity... BMWDUCMANNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com said (over the course of 2 posts): >Amps make the difference. Remember, Amps X Volts = Watts. > >The 2357 bulb's brake element uses 2.2 amps at 12.8 volts, producing 28.16 >watts (heat). Lumens (brightness) are 40. > >The 1157 bulb's element uses 2.1 amps at 12.8 volts, producing 26.88 watts. >Lumens are 32. > >For my money and safety, a 25% increase in lumens is worth the increase of >4.7% watts and the decrease in rated hours (from 1,200 to 400 hours). >Besides, the tail element is rated on both at 5,000 hours. >I do not remember nor can I find the formula for computing lumens >(brightness), but I do have a simple at-home test you can perform to verify >that the 2357 brake light element is 25% brighter than the 1157 brake light >element. Simply invest the 97 cents or so that the 2357 bulb costs, slap it >in and then conduct a before vs. after test on which you think is brighter. >Once you conduct this brightness comparison test, I can assure you that you >will never use an old 1157 bulb again (unless you own a John Deere). My suspicion is that you have never actually done this test! The problem with your calculations is that brightness is _not_ a linear function of Lumens. Lumens are proportional luminance. Brightness is approximately the cube root of luminance (depending on which famous psychophysicist you ask); for simplicity's sake, I will use Marsden's law: B= L^.35 (L is luminance in cd/m^2). So the brightness ratio between the two bulbs is approximately (40/32)^.35 = 1.08; i.e., the 2357 bulb should appear about 8% brighter than the 1157 bulb. Even side by side, I doubt they are distinguishable. So, for _my_ money and safety, I would stay with the original bulb. - -Neil Eklund Research Specialist Lighting Research Center Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute Troy, NY 12180 - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --------- Why is it that some people, rather than accept information and the opportunity to test and apply it, stand steadfast in their dung and complain about the world around them. Neal, I am sorry that you have waited years to add "lighting" before your surname. I have tested the 1157 and the 2357 bulbs side-by-side. The brake lamp on the 2357 is noticeably brighter (not to be confused with a particular resident of Troy). The test is simple (how many "Research Specialists" does it take to screw in a 2357 bulb?), inexpensive ($.97) and quick (about half the time it took for you to write the note denonouncing the idea). The lumens I quoted came directly from G.E., that party that manufactures the bulb. I did not perform the lumens calculation. I provided the G.E. toll free telephone number if anyone wanted to question or verify their data. Did you? Whether you decide to stay with the original bulb or not is of no consequence to me. I simply offerred the information that I thought might be of interest and benefit to other riders. I am sorry to have frightened and awaken you with a new idea. Please go back to sleep. Roy - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ------- Addressed to: Rob Lentini BMW Mailing List ** Reply to note from Rob Lentini 04/19/96 05:05am - -0700 > Fellow "luminaries": > > Regardless of the theory thread lingering on this list, here is what the > official "GE Miniature and Sealed Beam Lamp Catalog" says about 1157 and > 2357 bulbs: > > 1157-- > > Volts: 12.8 > Amps: 2.10 > Candlepower: 32.00 > Life: 1200 hours > > 2357-- > > Volts: 12.8 > Amps: 2.20 > Candlepower: 40.00 > Life: 400 hours > > I'm in favor of running higher candlepower bulbs. Shorter life is a good > tradeoff to better illumination and conscicuity. Anything we can > reasonably and legally do to increase our visibility to others is to our > advantage. Agreed. Remember, its the lifetime of the BRAKE LIGHT filament that is shorter for the 2357 than the 1157; the lifetime of the TAIL LIGHT filament is the same for both bulb. Try this. First, compare either of the BRAKE LIGHT filament lifetimes with the TAIL LIGHT filament lifetimes. Now, compare that with your own estimate of how much time your BRAKE LIGHT is ON (traffic lights, turns, fools in cages) relative to how much time your TAIL LIGHT is ON (all the time). I think you'll find that, unless you're on your brakes an awful lot, TAIL LIGHT filament is more likely to burn out before the BRAKE LIGHT filament, with EITHER bulb. // Bruce G. Keahey , U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO // "Never anger a dragon, for you are crunchy and you go well with Brie." - ------------------------------------------------------------- Carl Kulow kulowcNoSpam@NoSpamindiana.edu Bloomington, Indiana Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 13:00:34 -0700 (PDT) From: David Brick Subject: Re: NO BMW: hyper lites saved my butt !! On Tue, 7 Oct 1997, Jerry Cook wrote: > Same Sort of thing happened to My friend Karl Rosenbaum. 2-3 days after > he installed his hyper lights someone in front of him came to a quick > stop. Karl stoped and the guy behind karl was daydreaming and when he > looked up he said he saw the flashing lights. > I believe in them! It's all anecdotal, guys. I put HyperLights on my R11 one evening, and the next day was hit from behind. But yeah, they make me feel better. They're still on. __________________________________________________________________________ David Brick Santa Cruz CA dbrickNoSpam@NoSpamarmory.com 96 BMW R11RSL RA MOA BOOF etc Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:13:59 -0700 From: George Basinet Subject: Re: BMW: Red Turn lenses WEBB W WORTH wrote: > > Hi All: > > Anyone have any Red Turn light Lenses for R Bikes > or know where I can find them. > > I have a 1976 R90/6 with a Velorex 562 side car and > I want to add more red to the rear. > > No lectures about too many lights confusing the cage drivers please!!! > > Turn lights will remain orange. > > I am adding more tail/brake lights. > > Thanks > > W.W.Worth > > AMA #430097 > AIRHEADS #671 > BMWMOA (Life Member) #37153 "Life" > BMWRA #20902 > USCA #5545 > NRA (Life Member) #ASG1039D > Greater Cincinnati BMW Club > > OVER THE BARS CLUB 1975 1976 > ""ENOUGH"" > +++ THANKS MARGE YOU'R AN ANGEL, WHERE EVER YOU ARE+++ > Owner of "Sunset" Black 1976 R90/6 > "Named because The wife said It's the last one" W.W., Dekka makes a paint for stained glass that works fine. The color I used was crimson. Try a stained glass store or art supply outfit. Used it on my California sidecar and now on my K100RS because I use my turn signals as brake lights also. George Basinet San Jose, CA Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 23:24:02 -0800 From: jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpampower.net (J.F. Brown) Subject: BMW: RE: Headlight Modulator "Jack L. Casner" asks: > >My dealer says I shouldn't put a modulating headlamp on my R1100R >because of the "computer". Any better information out there? ============================ Horseshit! The dealer is jiving you, either deliberately or through gross ignorance. I've had a Kriss "Starburst" headlight modulator on my R11RT from day one (had it installed by my dealer as part of new bike prep). No computer problems. Works great, and on the slab many cagers will think you're The Man. I feel much more conspicuous, and therefore safer, with it. Kriss Industries in Tucson has the straight poop. I believe they're at www.kriss.com, and also have an 800 number. J.F. Brown 1983 BMW R80ST "NO PIKL" Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 13:07:05 -0000 From: Mike Barnett Subject: BMW: RE: AZ Rules-Long - -----Original Message----- From: bmwnutNoSpam@NoSpammail.ionet.net [SMTP:bmwnutNoSpam@NoSpammail.ionet.net] Sent: Monday, October 27, 1997 11:36 PM To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: AZ Rules-Long The following site lists Arizona Transportation related laws. http://www.azleg.state.az.us/ars/28/title28.htm I found the following laws at this site which on their face seems to=20 dis-allow the use of flashing brakelights. D. A vehicle may have lamps that may be used to warn the operators of other vehicles of the presence of a vehicular traffic hazard requiring the exercise of unusual care in approaching, overtaking or passing. The vehicle may display these lamps as a warning in addition to any other warning signals required by this article. The lamps used to display the warning to the front shall be mounted at the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable and shall display simultaneously flashing white or amber lights or any shade of color between white and amber. The lamps used to display the warning to the rear shall be mounted at the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable and shall show simultaneously flashing amber or red lights or any shade of color between amber and red. These warning lights shall be visible from a distance of at least one thousand five hundred feet under normal atmospheric conditions at night FWIW;IMHO and LOL I would suggest that=20 a) my bike is a vehicle; b) when I brake there is a hazard that someone might run in to me; and=20 c) people should exercise unusual care in approaching, overtaking or = passing me because if they knock me off I will be really pissed at them. Now all I've got to do is make sure that the Hyper-Lites are visible = from a mile away! Mike B. Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 15:06:59 -0500 From: Thomas Hundt Subject: BMW: [legal mumbo-jumbo] Laser speeding tix, Hyperlites (il)legality [questions re: laser ticket defense and Hyperlites legality posted by Steve Aikens and Mike Millsap.] For LIDAR defense info, check http://www.motorists.com/. For Hyperlites (which I call "Nervous Lites" because that's what they look like to me) here's some info for California, courtesy their website at http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/: CALIFORNIA CODES VEHICLE CODE SECTION 25250-25282 25250. Flashing lights are prohibited on vehicles except as otherwise permitted. That means that unless it says in here you're allowed to do it, you aren't. This is extensively snipped by me. The snippage includes all sorts of trivial stuff like front and rear turn signals blinking together, stuff like that. I left the "gist" of what was being said. For later sections, I left out stuff about tow truck lighting etc. etc. that is not relevant to bikes. 25251. (a) Flashing lights are permitted on vehicles as follows: (1) To indicate an intention to turn or move to the right or left (2) When disabled or parked off the roadway but within 10 feet (3) To warn other motorists of accidents or hazards on a roadway, (4) For use on authorized emergency vehicles. (5) To warn other motorists of a funeral procession, (b) Turn signal lamps shall be flashed as warning lights whenever a vehicle is disabled upon the roadway (c) Side lamps permitted under Section 25106 and used in conjunction with turn signal lamps may be flashed with the turn signal lamps (d) Required or permitted lamps on a trailer (e) Hazard warning lights, as permitted by paragraphs (2) and (3) of subdivision (a) may be flashed in a repeating series of short and long flashes when the driver is in need of help. Headlight modulators: 25251.2. Any motorcycle may be equipped with a means of modulating the upper beam of the headlamp between a high and a lower brightness at a rate of 200 to 280 flashes per minute. Such headlamps shall not be so modulated during darkness. Alarms: 25251.4. Any motor vehicle may also be equipped with a theft alarm system which flashes any of the lights Now here's some interesting stuff: 25251.5. (a) Any motor vehicle may also be equipped with a system in which an amber light is center mounted on the rear of a vehicle to communicate a component of deceleration of the vehicle, and which light pulses in a controlled fashion at a rate which varies exponentially with a component of deceleration. (Never seen that but it sounds like a nice idea.) Now here's something that almost applies to Hyperlites (close but no cigar): (b) Any motor vehicle may be equipped with two amber lamps on the rear of the vehicle which operate simultaneously with not more than four flashes within four seconds after the accelerator pedal is in the deceleration position and which are not lighted at any other time. The lamps shall be mounted at the same height, with one lamp located on each side of the vertical centerline of the vehicle, not higher than the bottom of the rear window, or if the vehicle has no rear window, not higher than 60 inches. The light output from each of the lamps shall not exceed 200 candlepower at any angle horizontal or above. The amber lamps may be used either separately or in combination with another lamp. (c) Any stoplamp or supplemental stoplamp required or permitted by Section 24603 may be equipped so as to flash not more than four times within the first four seconds after actuation by application of the brakes. Somebody mentioned strobe lights a while ago, this is for them: 25258. (a) An authorized emergency vehicle operating under the conditions specified in Section 21055 may display a flashing white light from a gaseous discharge lamp designed and used for the purpose of controlling official traffic control signals. 25268. No person shall display a flashing amber warning light on a vehicle as permitted by this code except when an unusual traffic hazard exists. 25269. No person shall display a flashing or steady burning red warning light on a vehicle except as permitted by Section 21055 or when an extreme hazard exists. 21055. The driver of an authorized emergency vehicle is exempt from So all of this having been said, Hyperlites don't seem to be legal in Cali. My silly pumpkin lite (visible at http://www.slack.net/~thundt/j-light.htm) is of course also illegal. (I've not been arrested yet.) Better to be dead wrong than dead dead, I always say. NoSpam@NoSpam Tom Hundt, San Francisco W=+1-415/597-2216 -_/L> '86 K100RS AMA/BMWMOA/DoD/IBMWR http://www.slack.net/~thundt/ ()7=() IBMWR-kive --> http://slack.net/~thundt/Bmw/index.htm Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 13:57:46 -0700 From: "Terry Turnbeaugh" Subject: BMW: Re: Where to get neon license plate frame? Bruce, Try J.C. Whitney. I think I saw one for motorcycles in their catalog. Terry Turnbeaugh Aurora, Colorado USA Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:40:14 +0000 From: bmwnutNoSpam@NoSpamultra2.ionet.net Subject: BMW: Kriss Response to Flashing Brake Lights I requested and received permission to post the following for Prezz info: >Date sent: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 11:02:39 -0700 (MST) >To: bmwnutNoSpam@NoSpamultra2.ionet.net >From: KRISS INDUSTRIES INC >Subject: Re: Flashing Tail lights & AZ Law >Indeed. I would certainly like to get the information out because we >are making every effort to produce an item that does not flash the >brake light and are not planning on developing anything in the future >that flashes red lights. > > At 23:41 27-10-97 +0000, you wrote: > >Hi, I found the following AZ laws prohibiting flashing lights and > >seemed to recall that there was a federal law okaying them. Can > >you point me to it? > > > >Thanks, R.F. Graver > > > > Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 10:00:52 -0700 (MST) > To: bmwnutNoSpam@NoSpamultra2.ionet.net > From: KRISS INDUSTRIES INC > Subject: Re: Flashing Tail lights & AZ Law > We have stated numerous times to the magazine editors that flashing > of the rear brake or red lights is not legal under the United States > d.o.t. rules. We have posted on the internet that flashing red > brake lights are not legal and are for off road use only. Most > enforcement agencies seem to look the other way but our contact in > the d.o.t. has said that if too many motorcycles show up with these > devices it will crack down.. It seems that more and more people are > now making brakelight flashers and the riders keep buying them. We > offer another similar device for sport and cruiser bikes that does > not flash the brake light but the people with gold wings appear to > consiously disregard the legal aspect and continue to buy the brake > light flashers. If we stopped making the Firefly for the above > reasons the people will just go buy something from somebody else > which does not make good economic sense from our standpoint. > > George > > R.F. Graver, Chandler, AZ R1100RT, The Green Machine BMWMOA #06829 BMW RA #16446 Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 03:01:17 -0500 (EST) From: Howard97NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: Re: BMW: AZ Rules-Long / Shortened One piece of confusion that seems to be glossed over on the list regarding making your bike into a non-standard christmas tree: Boiled down, What these laws try to do on the roadways is prevent non-standard signals, etc. or imitating special light signals (like blue flashing lights, etc.) In general, in the USA, Lights that are permitted on other than "special" (emergency, school bus, highway operations) vehicles for various purposes are Simultaneously flashing lights. Like car hazzard lights( four way flashers) , they Both either blink or remain full on (fog lights)at the same time. What is universally prohibited is Alternating flashing lights of most any kind or color - AKA "Wigwag lights" or the flashing brake light units that in addition to quick flashing the brake light, on goldwings I've seen they also initially make the brake lights flash Alternately (left-right-left, etc.), which is a universal no-no. This is reserved for emergency vehicles or special vehicles while doing their thing (while plowing snow, while actually towing a car, while actually dropping off/picking up school kids). Regarding comments about a rear yellow light blinking law - it's to indicate slowing down, this is about federal experiments with buses in particular, in which a green light is lit when the bus accelerates, a white light when coasting, a yellow light when slowing, and red when actively stopping. In the cities where this experiment is taking place - you think any 4 wheelers know what the heck is goin' on with the busy lights on the back of that bus? By alll means Please rear end these buses or - Look forward to this mandate in a vehicle near you. Hey Feds, How about we just keep a safe distance from each other? Naw. Besides, most of the trouble riders get into is in the front 150 degree view area of the bike. I think the rear is much less than 5%of the problems. Daytime Burning fog or driving lights at low power up front are alot more important, especially approaching the dreaded intersection, (IMHO) than a light show to the rear. If you want to feel less paranoid (more in control) about getting rear-ended while stopped,on a bike, watch the car approaching from the rear at a stoplight, if he isn't slowing enought to suit you, be in gear, one leg up, spaced far enough behind so you're ready to bolt to the left or right of the car stopped infront of you. Learned that in an MSF course and got out of the way in time for a car approaching me from the rear, to hit the car that was formerly in front of me! ride safe, Howard "Frantically Riding every day until the snow inevitably encroaches." ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 Nov 1997 21:46:18 -0500 From: Jim Shaw Subject: Re: BMW: High Beam Follies This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------0EE35873003816CCCF7F5773 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom Austin wrote: > Maybe one of the reasons there are such differences of opinion on this > > seemingly simple subject it that ALL HIGH BEAMS ARE NOT THE SAME. I don't want to [again] join the fray on this issue. I've been on this list since it had 42 subscribers, and this is not (!) the first time we've visited this. You're on the right track - and there is another variable - which adds a lot of weight to the final usefulness of daylight headlamp use. Most writers are ignoring the real difference between high and low beam headlamps - that is: field of view. The problem with using [properly aimed, factory issue] low beam headlamps is that they were designed [field of view restricted] to be non-glaring to oncoming drivers at night. Thus, it has less to do with wattage than with the vertical and horizontal angles of light coverage. Most of the low beam headlamp's light is wasted in daylight, because it is restricted from oncoming drivers' view. In most cases, using the [factory issue] 55/65 lamp suggests use of the high beam in daylight- allowing the driver's eyes to notice you. Riders who have substituted higher wattage lamps end up doing some retina-burning to oncoming drivers with the high beams in daylight. It is moot whether being noticed is better than being kind. These factors (and the limp electrical wiring on BMW headlamp circuits and components) are a big reason many serious distance riders opt for auxiliary lamps rather than jacking up the wattage on the factory reflector. The ones I know use the low beams in traffic at night, high beams in the daytime, and all they got when alone on the road at night. Riding in a group of motorcycles usually calls for the courtesy of low beams, as the bikes are closely spaced, and bikes don't have 'flippable' mirrors. So, I agree with you - it depends. For about the seventh or eighth time. Best, Jim ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~o&o.... . . . . . . . . . . . * Jim Shaw Hinckley, Ohio USA K100LT BMWMOAVP BMWRA IBMWR IBA RBR BMWMOC CFBB Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 10:11:20 -0700 To: "Bob Johnson" , ldriderNoSpam@NoSpamusaa.net From: Tracy DesLaurier Subject: Re: LDRider: "Reynolds Mirror Brackets" Cc: PLang84798NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com In-Reply-To: <199711070551.AAA03138NoSpam@NoSpamtelnet.skyenet.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-ldriderNoSpam@NoSpamst1100.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: Tracy DesLaurier The brackets required for the K RS's are different than those used for the RT/LT's. The RS's have a compound curve making them quite a bit more complicated to manufacture. I distribute PIAA's and have an associate who makes the brackets. He does have a template for the K RS's (all years fit the same). If you are interested, please let me know. We also have mounts we are working on for the R1100RT and ST1100. Thanks, Tracy DesLaurier At 12:21 AM 11/7/97 -0500, Bob Johnson wrote: >Fritz, > >They mount between the mirror and the fairing and hang the light >below the mirror. I saw them on Adam Wokloff's bike at the MN1K >this summer. Very clean installation, I figured they were custom >made at the time. > >We may be out of luck tho, Reynolds lists the application for 95-97 >K-RT/LT. When I called the factory they were "Not sure" if they >would fit older RT/LT's and "Fairly certain" they would not work on >my RS. > >I plan to compare the new and old style mounts to see if they can be >adapted. > Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 23:33:48 -0500 From: Brian Curry Subject: BMW: Additions to the HeadLight Relay Write-up When someone else attempts to follow your instructions, you find out what may be "common" for you, may be uncommon for others. The following is an addition to what is on the IBMWR Web page. Thanks to Alessandro Bruno for raising these issues and prompting some elaboration. ========================================================================== Getting a 12 Volt supply from the Starter relay: The start relay has two large contacts with bolted connections. The wires have red insulation. From memory, the rearmost connection, goes to the battery. Trace this to confirm it, BMW has been known to make changes. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. (This keeps down the sparks if you make a mistake and short something.) Remove the starter relay wiring bolt. Get a crimp connector that the bolt will fit through and that is properly sized for the wire. Crimp the connector on the wire. Bolt the Headlight relay wiring connector with the original connectors onto the relay. (I use some anti-seeze on this type of connection.) You now have 12 volts UN-FUSED available when you reconnect the battery negative. Fusing the 12V supply: I found my local auto parts store (Pep Boys) had a real nice "main fuse" holder rated at 30 amps. This should be installed in electrical box, in the wire going to the headlight relays. They also had a 30 amp self resetting "circuit breaker" with the same terminal type and spacing as the 30 amp rated fuse holder. IMO, this is a great application. Since getting to a fuse in the electrical box is a PITA, using a self resetting circuit breaker is a very good move. Or if you don't trust circuit breakers, use a fuse. They also make them in 30 amp ratings. This is plenty for the headlights and the size wire you are running. Headlights and Driving lights: If you will be powering both the headlight and driving lights, run two leads. That way if one shorts, you will not lose all the lights. Use colored wires: Use different color wires for different parts of the circuits. Otherwise you have lots of wires all the same color and no idea where they go. If you only have one color put wraps of tape on the wire ends. Different number of wraps on different wires. I suggest Red for the wire from the starter relay to the headlight relays. Then other colors from there. Relay mounting: Silicone rubber/caulk can be used to stick relays on the inside of fairing or any other panels. No more rattling. Velcro also works well. Then they are easier to take off the bike if it is sold. Don't let them flop around!! Relay numbering: If you use relays with contacts numbered in accordance with the German Industrial Standards (DIN) here is what the contact numbers mean: 85 Relay Coil 86 Relay Coil The control switch and ground/negative can go to either contact. 30 Relay Contact (Moveable) Normally connected to the Battery 87 Relay Contact Closed when energized 87a Relay Contact Closed when de-energized. While the 12V power lead can be connected to either contact, it is nice to follow the convention with the lead from the start relay connected to 30 and the headlight lead to 87. A lot of relays, even those made and used in the US, are starting to be DIN labeled, so even if you don't get it from BMW or another European car dealer, they may well be numbered. Look. If your relays are not labeled, you will have to spend some time with a meter figuring out what is what. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | To infuse moral concepts into a political discussion is simply to | | confuse the issue.... Morality is not involved in achieving policy. | | - William Fulbright 1959 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 00:06:22 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: Mini-Review, Saeng/TA "Night-Cutters" (aux. lights) Tom, Sam - you're welcome to it for the web pages.. Back around Thanksgiving (late November for non-USA people).. I'd asked here if anyone had any first-hand experience with the Seaeng/TA "Night-Cutters[tm]" which were somehow brought to my attention at their web site.. I received no answers, so I emailed them asking for info. I got a brouchure in the mail, and email from Saeng. I later called with some fittiment questions - and they were very helpful on the phone.. the person I spoke with (Steve?) owns a GS and was familiar with all the BMW models.. I finally decided on the bar-mount model (made to fit bars around +/- some amount 1") - planning on mounting them on my crash bars on my K100RT. The lights are approx 5" wide, 2 1/2" high and about 3" deep. Rectangular lense. Cost from Saeng is $94.95/pair + shipping. Christmas morning arrived, and Santa must have heard my wish, 'cause under the tree was a pair of the lights.. Christmas week was sorta boring, so I started plans to mount and wire them. Planning took a lot of going to the garage and staring at things, getting the parts took about 15 minutes (heavy duty relay from the local auto-parts emporium - Bosch sort of design, with a tab and screwhole in the tab for mounting. Wire came from one of my many boxes of wire - had some decent marine grade #12. Also an in-line heavy duty mini-spade fuse assembly was obtained from autoparts store, and one of those sorta univeral retangular lighted switches). Total cost of parts was about $15. Mounted the lights on the crash bars as high as I could. The right side of the bike determined the actual height - about 20" off the ground since this bar is a bit closer to the fairing than the left side bar. Mounting was easy, and looked clean (not hokey). The wiring from the lights is in a nice sorta braided loom, with wires about 20" long. These I passed through the same hole the bars mount to the upper engine mounts with, and I tie-wrapped them to the bars. Nice clean looking installation (I *do* have a picture - I can probably get it scanned if anyone is interested). I took one of the blank switch panels out, and using a drill and a fine coping saw, and a bit of filing - the universal lighted switch (I chose blue) fit right in and looked good (not hokey.. I hate hokey). Wiring was straightforward - I tapped off the radio switched power (turns on/off with the ignition) up to the switch. The switch being lighted needs a ground, so it got one, and then a wire from the switch following the standard handlebar wiring down to the relay. The relay I mounted behind the left kneepad of the fairing, and made male/female connectors so the lights can be easily disconnected in order to remove the crash bars (which is necessary to remove the lower fairing sides, which is necessary for lots of service on this bike..) Hooked the pigtail fuse from the battery to the power-in connection on the relay - put a 30A fuse in it, and it was off and running.. SO - the review part (whew!) Took bike to a consulting job today - which ran longer than I thought it would, so it was dark when I started home. When I first started out - the lights were pointing to a position about 15' in front of the bike, which wasn't too useful. Managed to find a deserted street with a house right at the end about 400' away, and adjusted the lights (which can be done sitting on the bike by leaning way forwards!) so they dropped to the ground at about 400', and converged at about the same point.. I then started driving home.. it didn't SEEM a lot different, but I hadn't ridden the bike at night for a long time since I felt I couldn't see.. and then I realized I *COULD* see - and see quite well. So - I tried switching them off - and I thought I'd gone blind. I was certain the headlight was burned out - but it wasn't.. it was just pitiful compared to the amount of light, and the pattern of the auxilary lights. I did a fair amount of riding in traffic - with oncoming in the next lane - and received no headlight flashes - so I'm guessing they were not blinding people. Do I think they are worth the $95? - yep. Every penny of it. They are not as 'intense' as Larry Fears Dear Blasters[tm] (PIA-110's) but it appears that I can leave these on when in traffic - something I don't think Larry can't really do. When I spoke with Saeng - I asked about the bulbs - they are standard H4 55w bulbs - and Saeng said the housing was rated up to 100w bulbs if I felt I needed them. I don't feel I need them. What next? I'll probably move the power feed to the switch from the radio connection to the offloader relay in the fusebox - this way they'll turn off automatically when starting the bike. For some reason the radio power is NOT on this relay. Anyone with questions about'm - feel free to email me! Don OH - In comparing the relative brightness of these lights to the headlight, the headlight - looking at the lights facing the front of the bike, looks pitiful. It really looks yellow in color - and since it is also a 55w low-beam - to me this means it isn't getting the voltage it should. Got the relay to rewire this - mebbe tomorrow... I think it is WELL worth doing. I'll write this up - and mebbe take a few photos while doing it. They also make "body mounts" which require drilling one hole (which I didn't want to do) and just came out with (not in their brouchure.. they told me about the) - fork mounts for the GS.. DISCLAIMER - I have no interest in Saeng, 'cept being a customer and liking their product and the service I received. Santa (SWMBO) paid full price + shipping for the lights. ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 08:27:36 +0900 (JST) From: "Norman R. Solberg" Subject: BMW: R1100RT police light mounts available! On 9 Jan 1998 10:16:12 U Jon Diaz wrote: Good news! Randy at Hammersley came up with some part numbers for the light brackets that BMW uses on their RT police bike. The little bracket that holds the light goes for $54 per side.....cool. As I reached for my VISA, he then informed me that a new upper fairing bracket was also required, at a cost somewhere north of $500.....dough! Oh well. Jon, do you have any thoughts, pro or con, about the extra cooling fans for extended idling that were mentioned in the press release about the California Highway Patrol purchase? All the best, Norm ___________ Norman R. Solberg Date: Sat, 04 Apr 1998 07:07:47 -0700 From: Steve Aikens Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01Gold (WinNT; I) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: aux. lighting Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Steve Aikens X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). For those interested in trying to make some sense of aux. lighting offerings and how each perform, there's an excellent FAQ at http://www.overlander.com/faq_lamps.html#anchor2392954 It's tailored to SUV's but the information is constant across motorcycle applications. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! http://www.doomed.com/sanity/sanity_1.htm Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico 6363NoSpam@NoSpampdrpip.com SoD#33 My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From: "ynotfix" To: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: Euro "Blue-Light" Dichroic Halo.gen Inserts (Very Long) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 17:42:47 -0800 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1155 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "ynotfix" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). :This is a post forwarded from rec.moto. It tells it all about those "blue" bulbs that are supposed to be sooo.. good! >On Sat, 4 Apr 1998 it was written: > >> Euro "Blue-Light" Dichroic Halo.gen Inserts Now available >> for US-Spec Cars. Emit 30% more light than standard halogen >> bulbs. Brilliant blue/white beam provides better all weather >> illumination. Prices start at $34.95/pair. > >False, misleading, and dangerous. Here is the newly updated blue-light >FAQ: > >The bulbs this guy is advertising are not the High Intensity Discharge (or >"Arc Discharge") headlamps found on some high-end cars (Mercedes, BMW, >Porsche, Audi, Lexus, and Lincoln are the only companies to offer these >arc-discharge lamps at the present, and only on certain models as a >multi-thousand-dollar option). > >INFORMATION ABOUT BLUE HEADLAMP BULBS: > >Various companies and individuals are selling halogen bulbs that have a >coating that makes them light up with a bluish color. I receive at >*least* four inquiries about these things per week. At least three of >those four are from users who are angry because they installed them and >not only cannot see properly, but frequently have also been ticketed. > >A typical such complaint (with my response) is reprinted below. > >WHY ARE BLUE HEADLAMP BULBS DANGEROUS? > >Halogen headlamp bulbs produce *very* little light in the blue >frequency range. These blue bulbs have a filter coating on them that >allows ONLY the blue frequencies through the filter. Because very little >light is produced by a halogen bulb in this range in the first place, it >is only this very small amount--a tiny fraction of the total amount of >light produced by a halogen bulb filament--that ever reaches the road. > >Headlamp illumination of the roadway and road hazards (including >pedestrians, cyclists, animals, other cars, etc.) is dramatically reduced >for the driver of a car equipped with blue headlamp bulbs. > >Perversely, glare for oncoming traffic is sharply INCREASED when the >driver must look at headlamps that have been equipped with the illegal >blue bulbs. Why? > >Blue is the shortest wavelength/highest frequency color of visible light, >and, as such, scatters the most readily. (To prove this to yourself, find >a dark blue storefront sign or something else that's a dark, pure blue >against a dark background in the absence of white light. From any >appreciable distance, it's almost impossible for your eyes to see the blue >lighted object as a sharply defined form...the edges blur significantly.) > >When blue light strikes water (rain, fog, snow) it scatters in all >directions and makes on-road vision very difficult. > >Blue also is a very difficult color of light to look at if it is at all >intense...it stimulates the reaction we call "glare". > >WHY ARE SO MANY MOTORISTS USING THE ILLEGAL BLUE BULBS IF THEY'RE SO BAD? > >There are several reasons I have learned by talking to users of these >bulbs: > >1) Because they have been confused by marketing claims for the blue bulbs >which falsely and incorrectly equate the blue bulbs' performance with the >very expensive arc-discharge headlamps found on top-line luxury cars. >They have been led to believe that by replacing their car's proper >headlamp bulbs with the blue-coated bulbs, their headlamps' performance >will be increased. In fact, quite the opposite is true; their headlamps' >performance is dangerously DECREASED. > >The placebo effect is alive and well, however, and the motorist who pays >$35 or more for a set of these bulbs often will continue to insist that >his headlamps have been made "better". Several such motorists have >continued to insist that the blue bulbs' performance was better, even when >the dangerously low actual light values were shown to them on a light >meter, compared to the readings from proper non-blue bulbs. > >2) Because they believe that the blue light makes their car look "cool". >This would fall into the same category as the dark plastic headlamp and >taillamp covers that are favored particularly by the younger male drivers >for their appearance "enhancement" value, despite the fact that these >covers, like the blue bulbs, are illegal and dangerous. > > >HOW CAN I TELL A GENUINE ARC-DISCHARGE HEADLAMP FROM A REGULAR HEADLAMP >THAT HAS THESE DANGEROUS BLUE BULBS? > >One clue is the type of car. As mentioned at the top of this message, >there are only very few models at this time in North America being offered >with the arc-discharge headlamp system, and all of them are very >top-end/luxury models from Audi, BMW, Lincoln, Mercedes, and BMW. If you >spot bluish light coming from the front of a Honda or Chevy, you have >found the illegal bulbs! > >Another way to tell at-a-glance is to observe the color of the light. >Genuine arc-discharge headlamps run with a very purplish-white character >that will remind you exactly of the color of the electronic flash on your >camera (because it is the same technology). > >The blue bulbs give headlamps a sick turquoise-blue-green coloring. Once >you have this information in mind, it is easy to spot a user of these >bulbs at half a mile. (Note: Cops see it too!) > > >WHAT ARE THE EXACT LEGAL ASPECTS OF BLUE HEADLAMP BULBS? > >Simply put: They are ILLEGAL in all of the US and all of Canada. Below >is a typical complaint/question I get about blue headlamp bulbs, together >with my response. This motorist, who happened to be Canadian (though I >receive many similar questions from American motorists, as well) asked >about the legalities involved, and I have referred to the relevant vehicle >codes. > >> You may have seen blue tinged headlights coming towards you. >> They are factory replacment bulbs, standard feature on all European >> cars. > >They are nothing of the sort. The only "blue tinged" headlamps that are >legitimate and legal are HiD (High Intensity Discharge) headlamps, which >do not use a bulb at all, but instead have an encapsulated arc-discharge >tube. Some of the marketers of these bulbs are using "euro" in their >descriptions of the bulbs. This is false and misleading. > >The only colors permitted for halogen headlamps in Europe are white and >yellow (No country requires yellow any more. Most countries allow the >yellow and prefer the white.) In the US and Canada, all light emitting >from the front of a non-emergency vehicle must be white, yellow, >white-to-yellow (for lamps providing visibility), and white or amber (for >parking lamps) and amber-only (for turn signals and front sidemarkers) in >color. > >In no case are blue-tinted bulbs legal for use in any European, Canadian, >or American headlamp on any non-emergency vehicle. > >> I installed them in my sprint and got a ticket from the RCMP. > >As well you should have. The blue-tinted halogen bulbs are not a >legitimate product, not a safe product, not a legal product. > >> went to the retailer and he says they are legal in Canada. > >He's wrong. Read the text of Canadian Vehicle Safety Standard #108 and >#108.1. These are the headlamp specifications for on-road use in Canada. >Both specifications clearly state that all light issuing from the >front of a motor vehicle for illumination purposes must be WHITE, >WHITE-TO-YELLOW, or YELLOW. The analogous US Federal Motor Vehicle Safety >Standard, FMVSS108, contains the same requirement. > >Now you're probably wondering why HiD headlamps, which have a bluish >appearance, are legal. It's because they're not actually blue, they just >appear more blue than the halogen lamps surrounding them. They are higher >in blue and blue-green wavelengths, but this is specifically noted and >approved in CMVSS108 and 108.1 (And, for US readers, in FMVSS108). A >halogen or tungsten bulb that emits blue light is deemed a blue light, and >is illegal on non-emergency vehicles in Europe, the US, and Canada. > >> Police still insist they are Illegal. > >That is because they ARE illegal. Given that the retailer of the bulbs >fed you lots of BS regarding these bulbs' use in Europe, it seems that he >does not know what he's talking about regarding vehicle headlamp >regulations and applications in any country. These bulbs may make your >car look "cool" to you, but the blue bulbs are not safe and are not legal. > >> Any comments or suggestions please?!!!! > >Yes. Stop playing with highway safety. Take the blue bulbs out and put >proper clear ones in. > >------------------ > >ARE THERE ANY LIGHTING MODIFICATIONS THAT LOOK ODD, BUT ARE ACTUALLY OK? > >Yes. There are new headlamp bulbs on the market, meant for use in regular >halogen headlamp assemblies. They produce yellow light rather than white >light. These bulbs do not have the dangerous effects of the blue bulbs >discussed above, and have been proven (and approved) to improve >bad-weather visibility and reduce glare. They look unusual, but they are >actually OK. > >I HAVE MORE QUESTIONS ABOUT VEHICLE LIGHTING AND SIGNALLING. > >Please feel free to write me with any questions you may have. >Instructions for e-mailing me are at the bottom of this message. > >--- >Because of unsolicited "spam" e-mail, I have had to modify my return >address. To write to me, remove the "headlamp" from my return address so >it reads dastern at vrx dot net > > > .____STERN LIGHTING CO.____. > |__Website Coming Soon!____| > Your comprehensive automotive lighting supplier > >--- >Daniel Stern >Automotive Lighting Specialist and Consultant >SAFE headlamp upgrades >Regulatory consultation Forwarded to BMWMC by: ................... Tony Angco o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o-o- From: "Stan Walker" To: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: F650 is better flasher then R1100RT Date: Wed, 25 Mar 1998 21:39:41 -0700 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Stan Walker" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). This is most distressing. Not to mention totally unfair. Jan let me ride her F650 this evening. It's the first time I've ridden it at night. Good chance to try out the lighting. Check the alignment, spread, cutoff, you know, time for a ride! It has a "high/low" switch on the front side of the left hand controls, and a "flasher" button on the backside, under your index finger. When you have your low beams on, and press the "flasher" button on my R1100RT that cost a zillion bucks, it switches on the high beam, and turns off the low. When you do this on the F650 it turns on the high beam but it doesn't turn off the low. Both filaments are lit. I WANT MY $$$$$ BACK!!!!! :-)) Stan Walker, Longmont, CO R1100RTL "ours" F650 "hers" "think less, lean more" X-Sender: bmwbrianNoSpam@NoSpampopmail.voicenet.com X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.1 (32) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 00:28:05 -0500 To: "Stan Walker" , "bmwmc" From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: F650 is better flasher then R1100RT Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Brian Curry X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). At 09:39 PM 3/25/98 -0700, Stan Walker wrote: > >This is most distressing. Not to mention totally unfair. > >Jan let me ride her F650 this evening. It's the first time I've ridden it >at night. Good chance to try out the lighting. Check the alignment, >spread, cutoff, you know, time for a ride! > >It has a "high/low" switch on the front side of the left hand controls, and >a "flasher" button on the backside, under your index finger. When you have >your low beams on, and press the "flasher" button on my R1100RT that cost a >zillion bucks, it switches on the high beam, and turns off the low. When >you do this on the F650 it turns on the high beam but it doesn't turn off >the low. Both filaments are lit. > >I WANT MY $$$$$ BACK!!!!! One caution there, and before Rob jumps in with how his K75 did it... On the K's the wiring jumper that did this was significantly thinner than the rest of the circuit. If a short occured, it made a great fuse but in a poor location. :(:( Only certain models had the jumper made up, although all of them (I think) had the connectors ready to be made up. I think it was the S models that had the jumper made up. So, it might not be as nice as it looks on first pass. Check the wiring diagram to see if this is "normal" or "optional" (which it was on the K75s.) X-Sender: bmwbrianNoSpam@NoSpampopmail.voicenet.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.5 (16) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 1998 20:48:47 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Don Eilenberger (by way of Brian Curry ) Subject: BMW: K hi/lo beam switch - as long as we're on the subject.. Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Don Eilenberger (by way of Brian Curry ) X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Since Don wondered about it, and was working from memory.... Brian. ============================================================================ === Folks - I know we've beaten it almost to death, butt - a few notes on an experiment I performed this weekend on my K100RT ('85) As some may remember, I wuz running an 80/100 bulb in the K in the attempt to get more light where I need it.. I recently removed the 80/100 and found the inside of the envelope (bulb) had deposits on it - indicating to me that it was running at a lower voltage than designed for (halogen bulbs are designed to run so hot that the normal filament deposits are evaporated off the inside of the envelope back onto the filament). Another thing I'd noticed lately is that my hi-low switch was developing a dead spot when switching from high to low or low to high. It also was stiffer to use than I'd remembered. Figuring the switch was about to do a meltdown, I decided I had nothing much to loose by taking it apart and looking to see if I could find what was wrong.. or starting to go wrong. ============================================================================ CAVIATS: Don't do this in the driveway (BTDT-WDIA).. don't do it if you're a klutz with tiny parts.. don't do it if your switch is OK - it might not be when you're done. ============================================================================ I unscrewed the switch from the handgrip (while parked in the driveway), unclipped the tie-wraps holding the cable in place, and put it up on my tankbag for dissection. There are LOTS of little phillips (+) screws holding things together in the light switch.. so I grabbed my magnetic parts holder thingie, and put it on the tankbag next to the switch. It became obvious to me - that to take the actual switch outta the housing, first the plastic plate holding the wires in place gotta be removed (three screws - one of a different length).. and then the horn and turnsignal buttons gotta come off (more little screws). ============================================================================ CAVIAT: The horn button has behind it - a tiny spring AND a funny brass piece - which is not magnetic - and WILL jump right outta there onto the driveway (BTDT). Takes a while to find (BTDT), and the horn button only will work if it's put back in (BTDT) the right way (BTDT). IF not installed, or not installed the right way - you have a permanent ON horn button (BTDT) which will annoy the neighbors as soon as you turn the ignition on (BTDT). ============================================================================ After removal of these two buttons, and 3 more screws (again, different length screws) - you can remove the switch from the housing and examine it. Mine didn't look 'bad' - but operating it - I could see the contacts which switch the hi/lo.. and they were gunked up with dirt.. black sorta dirt. I used some flammable/carcinogenic/bad-stuff electrical cleaner on the end of a rag with a tiny screwdriver inside it to clean them. I found it necessary to operate the switch lots of times before they started staying clean. Note - they are barely visible when you switch the switch, but if you look REAL closely - you can see them - they're little round lumps that a wiper assembly rubs over.. This - I hoped - would clear up the dead spot, butt the switch itself was still stiff to operate. I looked some more, and found that there are two tiny ball-bearings that are prolly spring loaded, which move in/out of several holes and a slot.. these provide the detent for hi/lo, and the spring loaded return for the hi-beam flash function. I tried spritzing (tech-term) some WD-40 on these - with little effect.. so I got out my moly-lube (left over from spline stuff), and poked some into the holes with a toothpick as I operated the switch back and forth. I also lubricated the contact area with a non-greasy lubricant (LPS) made for this sort of application (at least it sez so on the can).. Much smoother now.. Reassembly went OK, until I started looking for the brass piece for the horn button (which I found in a rag I used to protect the tank), and until the tiny - special - screw holding the horn button went flying.. finally found a replacement for it down in my cellar junk-screw-bin.. (it is a VERY special screw - don't loose it!). Turned the ignition on and found: 1. No dead spot 2. Regular (55/60) headlight bulb appeared brighter than the 80/100 had 3. Much smoother operation 4. Horn blowing continuously - had the brass thingie in backwards.. Conclusions: ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The interior of the switch had obvious road-dirt in it - the bike is 12-13 years old, has obviously been in the rain (rain trails inside the switch), butt - the contacts, once cleaned looked FINE, and all wiring was fine (no solder melting). I seem to remember some other prez's dissecting their failed switches and finding that the soldered connections to the contacts had failed.. indicating to me that there was an AWFUL lotta heat - prolly caused by dirty contacts (resistance) heating up enough to melt the solder. The accumulation of road-dirt could cause this sort of high-resistance failure. The switch is NOT well weather sealed (surprise!), and there is no obvious way to seal it - but a seal where on the joint on the top where it attaches to the handgrip would help a LOT (gonna use some sealant on this - real soon now), since most of the rain marks looked like they came down from this joint. My advice - don't do this in the driveway - and I'll prolly do it on a semi-annual basis. A trick I learned when rebuilding sailboat winches is to do this sorta thing inside a shoebox - the parts then only have one way to jump out (up) so the chances of retaining all of them is much higher - gonna do it this way next time. If you are seeing what appears to be (a) less light out front (b) stiff or knotchy operation (c) a dead spot - you MAY be able to rescue your switch before total failure occurs. If not - you need a new one anyway, so nothing ventured nothing gained. Best, If any prez's have dead switches laying around - I'd be interested in dissecting a few to see what failure modes I find.. or hearing from people who have opened up the failed switches. Plus - if you send it to me, I'll have spares for all those little screws/balls/springs that tend to go flying. EMail me for my address if you'd like to donate dead switches to the cause.. I'll summarize what I find and post it here. Best, ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== "Ultimately most problems can be solved by applying a Large Brick to the Correct Skull. Difficulties arise when you don't have a brick or can't find the the right skull. The Devil is always in the details."