From thundt Subject: K100RS Cheat Sheet [under construction] Air filter: Purolator AF3389 Brake fluid: DOT4 Fuel filter: Deutsch FF424 Oil: Mobil-1 15W50 or 20W50; ~4 qt Oil filter: (Requires special BMW wrench) Spark plugs: Autolite 4153/4163, Bosch X5DC Trans fluid: , capacity 0.8 qt Final drive fluid: , capacity Headlight bulb: H4 60/90W Turn-signal bulb: Brake light bulb: Tire pressure front: Tire pressure rear: Tire size front: Tire size rear: From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 8 22:48:20 1997 Date: Sun, 08 Jun 1997 06:41:31 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: RE: K Vibrations Cc: Clif Lines Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Clif asks: >Date: Sun, 8 Jun 1997 18:03:17 -0600 (MDT) >From: Clif Lines >Subject: BMW: K Vibrations > >Last month I bought my first K bike, a '85K100RS, with 10K miles. I've been >reading about the famous K vibrations, but never really paid much attention >to them, now I have some questions. The buzz at higher RPM's seems normal, >but the vibration at 3500 RPM seems stranger to me, and I was wondering if >that's what everyone is referring to? It kind of feels like something is out >of balance, like the flywheel, kind of a subtle low frequency vibration in >all gears. >I never noticed it until I did a 500 mile trip last weekend. 3500 RPM is not >a range where one spends much time, so it's not too annoying. I'm used to >the shaking of my '91 GS, so maybe this is in sympathy for the poor ole GS >at home. Any answers would be appreciated. Clif >Clif Lines http://stripe.colorado.edu/~lines/clif.html >Boulder, Co Clif - yep, 3500-3700 is where the vibes peak.. also seems to me to be where the engine is most responsive (mebbe the crossover point between HP and torque?).. the '85 was noted for this. There is somewhere a LONG faq out there about all the steps I took to de-vibe my '85 K100RT.. and it worked. It still has noticeable vibes at 35-3700, but above that speed the bars are dead quiet, no footpeg vibes, really quite pleasant to ride. The guy to ask is Larry Fears - he asked for the full writeup one time and I did it and sent it to him, not keeping a copy for myself.. Hints: Timing, timing, timing, then Intake leaks, then other stuff Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jun 9 10:18:22 1997 From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com To: Clif Lines , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, Clif Lines Date: Mon, 9 Jun 1997 06:54:17 MDT Subject: Re: BMW: K Vibrations Reply-To: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Addressed to: Clif Lines bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Clif Lines ** Reply to note from Clif Lines Sun, 8 Jun 1997 18:03:17 -0600 (MDT) > Last month I bought my first K bike, a '85K100RS, with 10K miles. I've been > reading about the famous K vibrations, but never really paid much attention > to them, now I have some questions. The buzz at higher RPM's seems normal, > but the vibration at 3500 RPM seems stranger to me, and I was wondering if > that's what everyone is referring to? It kind of feels like something is out > of balance, like the flywheel, kind of a subtle low frequency vibration in > all gears. > I never noticed it until I did a 500 mile trip last weekend. 3500 RPM is not > a range where one spends much time, so it's not too annoying. I'm used to > the shaking of my '91 GS, so maybe this is in sympathy for the poor ole GS > at home. Any answers would be appreciated. Clif > Clif Lines http://stripe.colorado.edu/~lines/clif.html > Boulder, Co Further thoughts on the vibration issue: All four-cylinder inline engines exhibit a "rocking-couple" shake that is a function of their firing order (1-3-2-4). In automotive applications, this shake tends to become objectionable at and engine displacement of about 2 liters. Hence there aren't many 2+liter 4cyl cars around. In a bike, which is much lighter than a car and where the ratio of engine weight to total weight is greater, it seems to me that this inherent 4cylinder shake might be more apparent at smaller displacements. Probably ought to learn to live with it. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "The ride is the objective, the destination is the excuse!" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 10 14:57:04 1997 Date: Tue, 10 Jun 1997 11:33:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Tom Nicholas To: "D. Rodman, MD" Cc: bmw list Subject: Re: BMW: How to fix oil window leak? Reply-To: Tom Nicholas Hi Dave, On Sat, 7 Jun 1997, D. Rodman, MD wrote: > > My 1985 K100 has a leak about the oil window. Is this part replaceable at > home or are special tools required? How common is this problem on older > bikes. The rubber ring around the window seems to have micro cracking. Yes the window is replacable at home by your average shady tree mechanic (I did it - so it must be!). It does take a little intestinal fortitude as you have to break the "glass" (its really plastic) of the old window. That is not entirely correct. If you break the glass, do it slowly and pull out all shards before they get into your crank case. That being said (this is the, not entirely correct part), I didn't "break" mine, I used a soldering iron to melt it (way cooler than breaking). I melted a hole large enough to get a screwdriver through then used the screwdriver to lever it out. To put the new one in, get a socket whose outside diameter is just smaller than the hole and tap (I used an extension on the socket and a rubber mallet) the new one into place. Oh yea, drain the oil first and have the new window on hand before starting (these should be obvious - so they need to be stated ). Hope this helps, Tom. ============================================================================= Tom Nicholas - Vancouver, USA '90 K75RT - techno bike '69 350 SS Sprint - my hardley '55 F-100 - luddite cage Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement. - Mark Twain From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 11 12:15:57 1997 Date: Wed, 11 Jun 1997 11:20:42 -0400 From: Sue Schofield Subject: BMW: GSvsRSvs LTvsRS To: "INTERNET:bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com" Reply-To: Sue Schofield BMW: GSvsRSvs LTvsRS >>>>>>>>>> I would like to know the technical difference between the R series RS and GS and the K series RS and LT. All I can find that is different in the K series is different wheel diameters. Is there a suspension difference on the two K's? I have heard that the fairing on th= e LT makes it handle differently. That makes sense. Any info? <<<<<<<<<<<<<= < K1100LT and K1100RS differences Suspension appears to be identical on both bikes from the same year ( 93 = on mine). = BMW claim that the aerodynamics of the RS fairing 'reduce lifting forces= at the front wheel and and guarantees even more stable handling". They claim that the (add-on) engine spoiler for the K series "lowers the drag co-efficient and improves road adhesion at high speeds." The RS fairing gets one anyway. The RS has a lower final drive ratio than the LT, at one tooth less. Primary gear ratios are the same. The front wheel on the RS is 120/70-17 as opposed to 140/80-17 on the LT= The Rear wheel on the RS is 160/60-18 as opposed to 110/80-17 on the LT Acceleration for the LT and RS figures are: = 3rd gear 80-120 KM/h LT 3.2 sec RS 2.6 sec 4th gear 80-120KM/H LT 4.1 RS 3.4 5th gear 80-120KM/H LT 5.4 RS 4.4 (50 mph to 75 mph) Overall length of the LT is 2250 mm and 2230 on the RS The RS 'looks' like it should go faster in the showroom. Sue = Eastbourne UK K1100RS From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jun 15 17:48:29 1997 Date: Sun, 15 Jun 1997 17:31:52 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Jay Roberts Subject: BMW: K100 for Sale Reply-To: Jay Roberts I realize that I am a one-bike man, so somebody has to go, and it is: 85 K100 (standard), 35k miles. Red, stock seat (have beat up corbin too!). Runs perfect, nothing wrong with bike. Tires are about 50% through their life. Extras: heated grips, 4 way flashers, new Koni in rear, new Progressives up front, fork boots, BMW plexiglass windshield (small vibration crack by lower mounts, but I have drilled it), K75S lower bars (have original), integral bags (original style, scuffed up but useable), k&n air filter, braided steel brake lines, upgraded instrument cluster, hand guards. Most of this stuff is very new. Also has stock running lights, which everybody comments upon. Unlike my other K, this one never backfires. But I make no promises. Recent maintenance: Complete fluid changeout, new front brake rotor, new fork seals. I performed this, since I am mechanically inclined. Assessment and nits: Tires about 50% through life cycle. Lots of brake pad left. Occasional buzz above 80mph from headlight fairing that I haven't tracked down yet. Bike is a very early 85, which means that it likely has the 49 state cam/tuning. I say likely only because I haven't absolutely verified this. The suspension upgrades and steel brake lines make a vast improvement over the stock suspension. Overall, a solid competent bike mechanically. I would ride it anywhere. Paint is pretty good. Has a few scratches in the clear coat, but despite its age is still an eye-catcher, sort of like Raquel Welch. The usual nicks and dings one would expect on a 12 year old bike. Scratches on the valve cover (matching those on the same side bag) suggest a parking lot mishap or some extremely aggressive riding :). price $4k. Bike is in DC area. Reply to: jay.robertsNoSpam@NoSpamjacobus.com 301.926.0802 (work) 301.907.9076 (home) I will be out of town from late monday to thurs. evening, so I may take a day or two to catch up with you. Jay From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 01:02:08 1997 Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:48:49 -0500 (CDT) To: Tom Barnhart , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Rick Landi Subject: Re: BMW: '88 K100LT Disassembly - Help!! Reply-To: Rick Landi At 07:40 PM 6/18/97 EDT, Tom Barnhart wrote: > >1. How does one remove the bin (whatever) which houses the radio? I have >the radio out, but I can't figure out how to get the rest of it out. Got >the right side out just fine, but the left has me stumped. Look for three holes at the top, bottom, and left side. Insert a small screwdriver or awl into each hole and pry the metal spring tab away from the bin. Lift slightly as you do this at each location and you will be able to remove it easily. >2. How does one remove the radiator trim panel? I'm hung up between the >mounting bracket on the lower faring and the brake "Y". Guess I'm going to >have to see if I can move the Y connector. Not having a lot of luck with >the lower. Remove two screws on the top front, two screws on the bottom front. >3. How does one remove the crash bars, upper mount? I have the lowers >figured out (a real "duh"), but I have not figured out how to get at the >upper. Pull out the black plastic covers from the end of the bar. Insert an allen wrench (sorry, forgot what size) and remove the bolt within. >Going to need a right side mounting bracket for the bars. One of the >connectors broke, probably when someone (who, me???) dropped the bike. >Wondering if anyone has one, or a good source for one. Can't help you with that one. If you're talking about the flexible mount on the engine crankcase, I don't remember them costing very much. Of course, I am wrong on a regular basis. >I've decided a well-equipped bike presents other types of problems, >particularly when necessary to take things apart. At least I'll get a shot >at fixing the speedo. By all means check the website and do all the things suggested while you're in there. I treat my inner lens with antifog every time I go in. And I'm sure that more than one of you out there has replaced all the bulbs just because. >Tom Barnhart - Confused in Traverse City '88 K100LT Hope this was clear enough, sorry if it wasn't. ------------------------------------------------------------- Rick Landi Rolling AMA #120621 Austin, TX Broccoli BMWMOA #71199 '86 K75c Riders SoD #2 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 08:03:24 1997 Date: Thu, 19 Jun 97 07:42 EDT To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Tom Barnhart Subject: BMW: K100LT Disassembly Reply-To: Tom Barnhart Thanks to Don Eilenberger and Rick Landi for their help in getting my K apart. The directions have been great. Certainly the Clymers did not cover these questions, nor have the correct sequence of panel removal (Storage bins, inner panel, lowers, radiator trim, main fairing). No, I guess I don't need to take it all apart for the main task at hand, but it will let me take care of some other things (like removal of an ineffective radar detector and light replacement) that I couldn't do otherwise. I may even have to clean and polish everything while it's apart. sheesh. Oh well, once in a lifetime isn't too bad, is it? :-) Thanks again. Tom Barnhart '88 K100LT Traverse City, MI From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 09:02:01 1997 Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 07:24:32 -0600 From: SER To: IBMWR Subject: BMW: Kl00 disassembly Reply-To: SER Steve Rankin West, Tx. rankinNoSpam@NoSpameramp.net MOA Kl00LT RE: KL00LT disassembly l. With my owners manual I received 2 U-shaped tools connected with a chain. The radio slips into its cannister and is secured by a spring clip at each end. Insert one tool into the two holes at each end of the radio. Slip a SMALL screwdriver into the notch between the holes and dig around to disconnect the clip while lifting on the tool. It is a frustrating job. 2. I took my trusty BUCK knife and cut a notch in the sucker to clear the brake line, cut the ends off the plastic rivets securing it and threw it away. 3. Remove the plastic cover from the upper mount and look inside to see what size allen wrench to use to remove the bolts. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 20 00:26:56 1997 From: "r.p.ward" To: "IBMWR" , Subject: BMW: Re: Since the subject of K noises is raised. Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 00:10:19 -0400 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "r.p.ward" Its true!! Some early K bikes sound like a cement mixer filled with nuts n bolts at idle. Perfectly nomal.Get used to it or suggested fix: Sell, buy different kbike. Aaron ---------- From: GLockeNoSpam@NoSpamemail.dot.gov.au To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Since the subject of K noises is raised. Date: Friday, June 20, 1997 11:04 AM Hi I have a 86 K100RS with 78,000 km's. The bike runs fine, but when started cold a rattle/knocking sound can be heard from the clutch area. It sounds like a stuffed main bearing type knock, but goes away after running for a short while and is not there when the engine is hot. I have been told this is normal for early K's and is the engine-to-gearbox coupling (flywheel in cage terms). I recently did a spline lube including tranny input spline's and could see nothing obviously wrong with the coupling. Any thoughts will be great fully received. Regards Graeme Locke 86 K100RS From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jun 20 00:55:04 1997 Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 23:38:58 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams To: GLockeNoSpam@NoSpamemail.dot.gov.au Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Since the subject of K noises is raised. Reply-To: Geoff Adams On 20 Jun 1997 GLockeNoSpam@NoSpamemail.dot.gov.au wrote: > > I have a 86 K100RS with 78,000 km's. The bike runs fine, but when started cold > a rattle/knocking sound can be heard from the clutch area. It sounds like a > stuffed main bearing type knock, but goes away after running for a short while > and is not there when the engine is hot. > > I have been told this is normal for early K's and is the engine-to-gearbox > coupling (flywheel in cage terms). > I have the same noise. I got mine with 67k and now has 87k. No change. But I would like a definitive answer on what it is. Geoff Adams '85KRS MOA 22753 TBC Arlington, TX IBMWR BMWDFW NTCOF tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net LSBMWR "We are confronted with insurmountable opportunities!" -Pogo. ____________________________________________________________________________ From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 26 12:38:01 1997 Date: Thu, 26 Jun 97 12:14:27 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi To: richard_passNoSpam@NoSpamdpa.act.gov.au, The Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW:K100/K75 Throttle Butterfly Synchronisation Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi Richard Pass wrote: > I've also since read in the Clymer manual that if one of the > butterflies is disturbed then the whole throttle housing must be > REPLACED. That is the Official Factory Position on the matter. Rob Lentini, Joe Senner and I disagree. > adjusted?). I must say it all sounds a bit final and surely if the > adjuster can be put back to the same position it should run as it did > before (which to me it appears to be...I can't notice any increase in > vibration). The only disconcerting thing is that I can't get it to > idle at the right speed. My guess is that the air bleed screws are too far open and result in a high idle speed even with the idel adjust screw all the way out (butterflies fully closed). Run all the air bleed screws in fully and then back them out 1 1/2 turns to start. > Anyway after this somewhat disturbing experience I read Rob Lentini's > article on the K-Bike tech page and it has left me perplexed. He > makes it sound relatively simple to fix the problem (if indeed, in my > case, there is one). I'm not a qualified mechanic but I've maintained > my own cars and bikes for the last 20 years or so (including the odd > motor rebuild) and my instincts tell me it ought to be possible to > reset the throttle synchro as Rob describes. Your instincts are right on the money. Just be VERY careful to check for any vacuum leaks which may exist. In particular, note the crankcase vent hose, which attaches to the airbox just above the #4 butterfly. It tends to dry out and crack. Also the rubber stubs which mate the butterfly assembly to the cylinder head. They, too, will crack when they age. Have at it! tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 02:10:35 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: Cc: "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: re: k75 electrical problems Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 18:07:15 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Bob asks: ==== Date: Tue, 01 Jul 1997 10:40:30 MDT From: MF Subject: BMW: k75 electrical problems I'm having some problems with my 1991 k75, I'm hoping someone out there has some advice. Here's the problem. I noticed the headlight start to flicker (this included the instrument panel lights) when I went to pull off the road I noticed the blinkers operating erratic. No matter if I used either blinker indicator or the cancel switch, all four blinkers went into an emergency blink mode. After pulling off the road and turning off the bike (by the way engine performance was not effected) I found that when I tried to restart the bike the starter would not engage. I found that by putting the bike in gear and rocking the bike(forward and back) the lights would operate sporadically. With me rocking the bike to get the lights on I was able to restart the motorcycle and ride home (with lights flickering). I got home and pulled the tank and checked the ground. Everything seemed OK so I got the Haynes Manual out. Not much help. After putting the bike on the center stand I was able to recreate the problem. Again this problem seems to manifest itself with the ignition turned on. There are no lights; blinkers only operate in an emergency flashing mode; and, by rotating the back wheel with the bike in gear the headlight (clutch out) comes on. I then am able to start the motorcycle(but lights still flicker). The bike has an alarm system. Thinking maybe the alarm CPU might be affecting the starter, I took the alarm out of the starter circuit loop by removing the wires from the alarm wiring harness that go to the starter relay, and reconnecting the original brown and red starter wire back into the starter relay. The same problem was still there(I also took the fuse out of the alarm to make sure it was completly disabled). It said in the manual a load shedding relay cuts all power except to the starter. I'm wondering if that may have something to do with it. I figured the emergency blink mode was some default in case of electrical problems? It seemed in the manual that the blinker relay and load shedding relay sit side by side so I swapped them(same Part #) with no effect. Anyone with any ideas? I would appreciate a reply. Last resort is the Beemer shop, but I hate to do that because this electrical trouble shooting is fun Right?:) Sincerely, Bob Kinzel ==== Bob: K bikes depend on a major ground connection THROUGH the starter motor brush assembly. Long service can infiltrate the brush area with dust causing intermittent grounding. I suggest you remove the motor and disassemble it to clean out the commutator area and inspect for brush free length. This is pretty easy to do...follow Haynes procedures. Brushes are available at your dealer or through a alternator shop (if required). Good luck! Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 23:35:17 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: re: '85 throttle cable/idle speed Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 18:58:49 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Eric asks: ==== Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 08:57:05 -0600 From: Eric VanDenHoek Subject: BMW: '85 throttle cable/idle speed all right guru's..got a problem. Early K100rs- throttle cable w/ mid cable adjustment. I can't figure out why it is idling high(1100-1200 RPM). I have loosened the cable free play, no luck. Idle remains when I move steering wheel stop to stop. If I press on the adjustment screws on the throttle body, idle drops. The cable doesn't seem to be binding but....What are my steps to trouble shoot? ==== Turn the MAIN idle stop screw CCW (center/forward on injector rack) and reset the TPS (at aft end of injector rack) for a "click" when opening/closing throttle. Then do a proper synch of all four throttle bodies. See K-tech at www.ibmwr.org Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 2 23:38:13 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "IBMWR" Cc: "Brian Curry" Subject: BMW: re: early K-bike speedos Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 19:06:12 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" John asks: ==== Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 09:40:01 -0600 From: John Moore Subject: BMW: early K-bike speedos I have an 87 KRS that has 22k listed on the current odometer. I was told when I bought it that the speedo had been replaced -- so I don't know the "true" mileage. After asking around, I find that there was a problem with many of the early K speedos. For those who know more about this -- what was the problem? Did they usually crap out fairly soon? ==== Yes! Speedos would be intermittent and frequently drop to zero MPH. Some complained of tach problems too, though my K 75 S's was fine. ==== I ask because I'm trying to get "some" idea of the mileage on my bike. If they tended to die soon after delivery, then my current mileage is probably pretty close to the actual. OTOH, if they died 5 years down the road -- then I guess I have no way of determining the approximate mileage. (Yes, there is a printed "sticker" under the seat that says "SPEEDOMETER REPLACED AT:". The problem is that they wrote the mileage on it with a water soluble ink!!!! GONE!) ==== John: Early Ks had monstrous problems with lousy connections inside the cluster. There is a lot of good tech info at the K-bike link on www.ibmwr.org You have a newer improved cluster if your unit has two Gortex vents on the back side. This assembly has newer style connections and MUCH improved reliability. It came out in '88, as I recall. If so, add about 10K to your mileage as a "ball park" figure. Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 09:12:27 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "Oilhead" , "IBMWR" , "Joe Senner" Subject: BMW: re: Backlash rear wheel Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 05:33:43 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Andre asks: ==== Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 20:18:43 +0200 From: Andre Hoogendoorn Subject: Backlash rear wheel To: bmw-techNoSpam@NoSpamroadkill.com, bmw-r1100NoSpam@NoSpamcinnamon.com To all, During a last check of my R1100RS I noticed some backlash at the rear wheel. The way I do this check is to grip the wheel on the tire with some pressure downwards so the tire rests on the ground, and attempt to move the wheel sideways. It is not much backlash and it appears to be when the engine is cold or hot. Am I the first having this problem? since I have never seen this topic on this news group before. Can someone tell me how I can find the exact location of the backlash (there are three possible locations of the backlash). ==== My gone K 75 S developed some side play (which is what you may be referring to) in the final drive. All it took was a reshimming of the crownwheel clearance which was easily and inexpensively done by Iron Horse. Joe may be onto something with the rear paralever point. This area needs to be retorqued at every inspection (12K) interval, the loose pin to 7 mn and the locknut to 105 nm. Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 11:51:11 1997 Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 08:07:14 -0700 From: Scott Lee Organization: CAD Toolbox To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: re:K-Bike fork types X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: Scott Lee ---------------------------question From: Thomas Roemer Subject: BMW: K 75s Front Fork Oil Quantity? Hi, I am just changing the oil in my '87 K75s and notice that there is a difference in quantity between the standard and the sport suspension (330 ml vs 280 ml). How can I tell what suspension I have? Thanks, Thomas -----------------answer The "Sport" forks have an "s" stamped into the top (horizontal) surface of the fork caps, made visible after you pop the black plastic cover off with a screwdriver. Those forks get the lower volume of fluid-I prefer 7.5W BMW oil, having tried 10W spectro and found it to be a little on the "harsh" side. Scott Lee Somewhere in L.A. (the one with earthquakes, riots, floods and fires, like the one in the foothills behind my house yesterday..) NOT #e Laguna F. Seca, Site 48, 1730 (5:30 p.m.) Saturday, July 12 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 11:51:56 1997 Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 10:05:37 -0500 From: "Timothy A. Spencer" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, jmooreNoSpam@NoSpamparkland.cc.il.us Cc: timothy.a.spencer.3NoSpam@NoSpamnd.edu Subject: BMW: early K-bike speedos Reply-To: "Timothy A. Spencer" John wrote... 'After asking around, I find that there was a problem with many of the early K speedos...' I have an '86 K75 that has 32,000 on it (actual). It's on its THIRD instrument cluster! I was told that the 'guts' of the early K's instruments were nothing more than you would find in a 300 series BMW automobile, and it wasn't made to be exposed to the vibration, weather, etc. I can't confirm this, however. Good Luck Tim Spencer From lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlune.mst.lanl.gov Mon Jul 7 15:35:59 1997 Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 13:29:09 -0600 (MDT) From: "Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov)" To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: Re: BMW: K1200 Rattle at Idle Thomas Hundt's keyboard spoke: > |> I have this strange rattling that sounds like something loose > | > in the faring when idling. Anybody else? Cant tell if its the > | >motor or something loose. > | > |I noticed the same exact noise at idle when testing a K1200 about 4 months > |ago. We couldn't figure out what it was either. > > Well, I don't know about you guys, but my K100 makes a rattling > sound esp. when going down the hill to my house (decellerating by > just letting the engine brake me) that I strongly suspect is the > little wire grille that covers the radiator. It's definitely > slightly loose. I have to look into battening it down, one of > these days. Maybe there's one of these on the K12? Tom, I've got a K75S. With two wire grills. I was _sure_ they were rattling. I took them off. I put foam tape behind them. Finally I rode the bike with no grills on. The rattle was still there. At ~2000 rpm, +- 300. It was the famed K-bike alternator rattle. Needed new alternator dogs. About $1 each, I believe. - Bryan From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 7 12:24:16 1997 From: Clarence Dold Subject: Re: BMW: Stalling/Cutting out K75s To: doncuomoNoSpam@NoSpamhnl.net (don cuomo) Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 08:48:27 -0700 (PDT) Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com (BMW Mailing List) Reply-To: Clarence Dold > As you know I have removed the SHED. However, I did find a little crud > around the cap. Can this be the problem with the SHED removed? If so can > you be a little more specific about what needs to be done? Should I take > the cap assembly apart? If the SHED was removed, I wonder what was done with the hose that came from the tank. That should provide free breathing now, where before, it was only an exit, not an entrance. If that hose was plugged off completely, it could potentially be a source of pressure buildup in high temp. The gas cap vent is one-way only, _into_ the tank. So... Stock bike. As fuel is drawn from the tank via the pump/injectors for use, air needs to come into the tank. This is via a spring loaded vent mechanism in the gas cap, with the air first entering via the keyhole. If this is plugged, the engine will eventually starve for gas, as the fuel pump can not draw against a vacuum. During high ambient temps, vapor expansion causes pressure to build in the tank. This cannot vent through the cap, which is one-way in, so it vents through the SHED into the crankcase, which is sealed. It is eventually drawn into the engine for combustion on next startup. This sometimes causes an overrich, hard hot start, so people disconnect the crankcase from the SHED. The crankcase opening needs to be plugged, but the line from the tank needs to either be left wide open, or have the inline valve left in place. It needs to vent high pressure somewhere. If your SHED was removed, and both hoses (crankcase and tank) were capped off, then excess pressure has nowhere to go. I'm not sure what the effect would be, short of tank rupture (doubtful), but it might lead to some force-feeding of gasoline with the engine off. It might lead to overpressurization of the fuel delivery, and overrich during running... I don't know, but it wouldn't be good ;-) If the SHED line to the tank is open, you can't have the problem you've described. Maybe it was capped, maybe it is plugged with crud... There won't be a whoosh with an open SHED line. If the SHED line still has the one-way gadget at its end, then either that gadget is defective, or the tank lid is not venting in. The little valve is easy to check with just mouth pressure and vacuum on the SHED line. With the valve in place, you should be able to draw through, but not blow into the tank. With the valve removed, you should be able to test for one way operation of the valve. Testing the tank lid vent would be harder, because you would need to draw a vacuum on the tank. Any shop that does auto smog tests uses a small vacuum pump to test EGR. You might be able to borrow a pump to test vacuum release by connecting the pump to the SHED hose (no valve), and drawing for a while. Very little vacuum should register, and you might be able to hear air entering at the lid. If you can build a vacuum, the lid is probably clogged. Try drawing vacuum with the lid open. Then clean the lid assembly. I have taken mine apart, although I forget why. --- Clarence A Dold - doldNoSpam@NoSpamnetwork.rahul.net - Pope Valley & Napa CA. From lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlune.mst.lanl.gov Mon Jul 7 17:45:27 1997 Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 15:45:22 -0600 (MDT) From: "Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov)" To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: Re: BMW: K1200 Rattle at Idle Thomas Hundt's keyboard spoke: > |I've got a K75S. With two wire grills. I was _sure_ they were > |rattling. I took them off. I put foam tape behind them. Finally I > |rode the bike with no grills on. The rattle was still there. At > |~2000 rpm, +- 300. > | > |It was the famed K-bike alternator rattle. Needed new alternator > |dogs. About $1 each, I believe. > | > > Oh? Oh..! interesting. Haven't heard of this 'til now. Will > have to investigate! > > I was wondering why the grilles would be loose like that, > seemingly from the factory. They wouldn't leave that loose if it > was going to make a racket. Something that works its way loose > in time, like the alternator, now that makes sense! This is a pretty well known rattle. Someone on the net pointed it out to me about 2 years ago. The alternator is connected to the alternator drive by 3 odd-shaped rubber "dogs." They get loose, or disintegrate. Then you get this rattle. At a very characteristic frequency around 2k. One solution is to rev it up :-) Mine only did it when taking off under load - i.e., riding it. We could never get it to do it on the centerstand while we were looking at it (of course!). But you have to get through 2k to go from idling at a stoplight to moving, and I found it to be real embarrassing to be riding a bike that cost this much, and have it rattle worse than a Dodge (a good friend has a '74 Dodge Dart "Custom"). You can remove the alternator entirely and go for a ride around the block and see if it goes away - that's the easiest way to test the problem. On a K75 or K100 it's pretty easy to get at. I don't know how much plastic is in the way on a K1100. I don't think you can do any damage if the alternator is not in the circuit - just don't go too far ... Also, you can just unbolt the alternator and look at the dogs. Bad ones usually have cracks in the rubber. I've stuffed neoprene sheets in there with them to quiet them down on one bike until we could buy new ones. - Bryan From lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlune.mst.lanl.gov Mon Jul 7 17:45:27 1997 Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 15:45:22 -0600 (MDT) From: "Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov)" To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: Re: BMW: K1200 Rattle at Idle Thomas Hundt's keyboard spoke: > |I've got a K75S. With two wire grills. I was _sure_ they were > |rattling. I took them off. I put foam tape behind them. Finally I > |rode the bike with no grills on. The rattle was still there. At > |~2000 rpm, +- 300. > | > |It was the famed K-bike alternator rattle. Needed new alternator > |dogs. About $1 each, I believe. > | > > Oh? Oh..! interesting. Haven't heard of this 'til now. Will > have to investigate! > > I was wondering why the grilles would be loose like that, > seemingly from the factory. They wouldn't leave that loose if it > was going to make a racket. Something that works its way loose > in time, like the alternator, now that makes sense! This is a pretty well known rattle. Someone on the net pointed it out to me about 2 years ago. The alternator is connected to the alternator drive by 3 odd-shaped rubber "dogs." They get loose, or disintegrate. Then you get this rattle. At a very characteristic frequency around 2k. One solution is to rev it up :-) Mine only did it when taking off under load - i.e., riding it. We could never get it to do it on the centerstand while we were looking at it (of course!). But you have to get through 2k to go from idling at a stoplight to moving, and I found it to be real embarrassing to be riding a bike that cost this much, and have it rattle worse than a Dodge (a good friend has a '74 Dodge Dart "Custom"). You can remove the alternator entirely and go for a ride around the block and see if it goes away - that's the easiest way to test the problem. On a K75 or K100 it's pretty easy to get at. I don't know how much plastic is in the way on a K1100. I don't think you can do any damage if the alternator is not in the circuit - just don't go too far ... Also, you can just unbolt the alternator and look at the dogs. Bad ones usually have cracks in the rubber. I've stuffed neoprene sheets in there with them to quiet them down on one bike until we could buy new ones. - Bryan From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 8 12:42:39 1997 Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 12:14:52 -0400 From: Daniel Quick Subject: BMW: K100 smoking To: IBMWR mailing list Cc: Chas Walters Reply-To: Daniel Quick Chas Walters: CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote re : BMW: K100 smoking > >How normal is it for a 87 K100RS w/only 19K to emit seemingly a lot of oil >smoke upon starting first thing in 24 hours. Just seems awfully smokey. Kinda >like my Vespa. = > Completely normal, early K's didn't have "pegged" rings, occasionally a ring gap will end up at or towards the bottom of the cylinder causing the= problem. You can minimize the problem by: a. Parking the bike on the main stand b. not overfilling with oil, it should be run so that hot oil settles to the dot in the filler window. Safe Riding Daniel Quick = dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/dlquick Oxford UK Flautist Extraordinaire :-) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 8 09:52:10 1997 Date: 8 Jul 1997 08:37:37 -0500 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: Intake rubbers To: "bmw mailing list" Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" To folks with aging K bikes: In addition to regularly replacing the breather tube between the engine block and intake plenum, keep an eye on the intake rubber between the airbox and intake plenum. Unfortunately, this is most easily done with the gas tank removed, but its well worth it.....I found the beginning a few cracks when I was installing a new throttle cable last week. Jon Diaz From leporeNoSpam@NoSpamdnai.com Wed Jul 9 05:29:31 1997 Date: Wed, 09 Jul 1997 01:54:07 -0700 From: Sam Lepore To: Thomas Hundt CC: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Fill 'er up (but not too up) -- K100 Thomas Hundt wrote: > > just for fun I opened the filler cap again -- and there's all > this gas around the edge! No wonder stuff's coming out the hose. > > So, the (dumb) question: How full is "full"? Should the rubber > ring around the filler cap not prevent the gas from "escaping" to When my K75 was new I complained about gas 'drooling' around the cap. There seems to be a pressure-vacuum condition aggravated by the rubber sealer ring in the locking mechanism. The mechanic said 'common problem' and drilled out the little triangular stamped air hole near the top of the filler neck. He used a 1/4 inch drill. No more drool. _________________________ Sam Lepore, San Francisco From lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlune.mst.lanl.gov Tue Jul 8 21:51:14 1997 Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 19:51:09 -0600 (MDT) From: "Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov)" To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: re: BMW: Fill 'er up (but not too up) -- K100 Thomas Hundt's keyboard spoke: > gallons. I read Scot's flapper writeup on the website and am > jealous that he goes 200-260 miles on a tank. He's got a K75, I > guess.) And he _must_ be babying it as well ... > And what's this about that flapper you can remove, does that prevent > gas from escaping, or just vapors while the cap is open? 'Cause > I don't have one. Previous owner must've removed it. Vapors when the cap is open. An emissions thingy. > I've read about fuel expanding due to heat -- but how much is > this really a factor? I'm a bit incredulous about the amount a > liquid will expand. I rather think my problem is from gas > sloshing around in the tank and somehow getting through the cap. This sounds like the rubber seal on the underside of your cap is shot. > Also: Scot's writeup includes instructions to remove a vent line > from the tank to the crankcase. What's with that? The SHED system, more emissions controls. There is a vent tube inside your gas tank, open in the air space above the gas. Vapors from the airspace above the tank would be unburned hydrocarbons if they escaped. Instead, the vent is connected by a line to a stub on the front/center/top of the crankcase. The vapors go into the crankcase, where they are burned by the crankcase ventilation system. This can cause extreme richness at starting, especially if the bike was left in the sun. Many people disconnect this emissions device. I had to if I wanted to start my bike in the sun. - Bryan From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 9 01:00:51 1997 From: BilZ42NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Wed, 9 Jul 1997 00:49:08 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K11 fuel pump Reply-To: BilZ42NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com OK, all you K11 riders ( and maybe K75 & 100 also ), here's the deal! You're 100 miles from any dealer in a small country town and the fuel pump does the instant death trick, what to do? Well, if you're rich and planned ahead, you reach in the bag and get out your spare pump and in minutes you're back on the road. If you're poor and didn't plan ahead because the scoot is low milage and reliable as an anvil, find a NAPA parts store and ask for a P74095 fuel pump, get a few O-rings just big enough to fit over the new pump to fatten it up, and a large hose clamp to fit over the bottom of the stock BMW rubber mount sleeve, cost about $80, and you can be back on the road in minutes. And if you get lucky like me and your seat won't unlatch for acess to the tool roll, you can do the whole job with your leatherman tool. I'll try to find out what this pump fits and post it later so you can ask for a pump for a ?whatever and that way you can buy it anywhere in case there's not a NAPA store close at hand. Happy motoring! Bill Z From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 09:59:12 1997 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 09:14:04 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamfacteur.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: RE: K splines and wheel shims Cc: "Sobczyk, Joe" Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Joe asks: >Date: Wed, 09 Jul 97 21:49:00 PDT >From: "Sobczyk, Joe" >Subject: BMW: K splines and wheel shims > >A question popped up as I completed my first driveshaft spline lube on my >recently purchased 85 K100RS. Many thanks to the authors who have >contributed tech articles to the web page. The directions on the spline lube >were explicit and easy to follow. Clymers by my side helped me torque >everything back up. >I have reason to believe this was the first such spline lube in at least >30,000 miles on the bike. There was evidence of grease remaining on the >splines (and evidence of a weeping rear drive seal, but that's another >story) and the teeth looked in fine shape. FWIW, I used Sta-Lube extreme >pressure moly-graphite grease on the splines. We'll see how it holds up. >The question: The rear wheel does not appear to have the shim that is >mentioned in both the Clymers and the web page tech article. It's easy to >imagine it getting lost sometime in the past, but does anyone know if the >very early Ks--mine appears to have been among the first brought to the >US--ran without the shim? Or am I engaging in denial to even think so? >Your comments appreciated. > >Joe Sobczyk Joe - good job - glad to hear you used the moly.. (out of curiosity.. what color was the old grease?).. (and how did the splines look?) As far as the shim - my '85 K100RT has it, dunno the production date off hand, but could look it up when I get home if you want. As far as I know - the shim is there to allow the rear tire to clear the swingarm.. the offset of the rear wheel has been claimed to be intentional but my guess is they just couldn't engineer it out. I understand some people who have put wider tires on their K's have added a 2nd spacer so the sidewall of the tire clears the swingarm. My guess is - if it clears without it - no harm done in not having it, but it wouldn't hurt to pick one up sometime and put it on. I'm assuming it wasn't stuck to the wheel (they can do that and look a lot like part of the wheel..). The spacer may be more important if the tire goes flat and starts to spread in width - in this instance you don't want a flat tire grabbing the swingarm and suddenly skidding due to lack of rotation.. just a thought! Best, ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 12:11:54 1997 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 97 11:51:25 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi To: cfactorNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com, the internet bmw riders Subject: Re: BMW: K bike rear wheel sqeal, sqeaking Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi CFACTORNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com: > Now my concern is the incessant squeaking I get from my rear wheel while > rolling at any speed. My bearings seem tight as I cannot move the wheel from > side to side. The noise is rather loud and feels abrasive. Any suggestions? Brake pads rubbing against a slightly warped disk. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 21:18:00 1997 Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 18:04:25 -0700 (PDT) From: David Brick To: art campbell Cc: beemer list Subject: Re: BMW: K steering head bearings lifespan? Reply-To: David Brick On Thu, 10 Jul 1997, Art Campbell wrote: > I'm beginning to get shakes in the dead-ahead position, and was > curious as to other's mileage before replacement. My dealer says the > 38K I've logged is higher than normal . . . My K went 63K happily on the original bearings. Paul Glaves will tell you he got over 100K. If they went south at 38K, I'd suggest they'd been loose and beat themselves up. __________________________________________________________________________ David Brick Santa Cruz CA dbrickNoSpam@NoSpamarmory.com 96 BMW R11RSL RA MOA BOOF etc From JGriese754NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Fri Jul 11 23:21:39 1997 From: JGriese754NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Fri, 11 Jul 1997 23:21:04 -0400 (EDT) To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: smokin' 87KRS With the san francisco fog around, you may not notice the KRS smokin" on start up. Seriously, my 87 KRS does smoke on start up and my 85KRS did also. The 88 on up K100 motors had pinned piston rings which solved most of the problem. Of course, you could buy a K75 which has the cylinder head facing the OTHER way, hence, no smoke on start up!! Love your city..so ride fast and often, jgriese754NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 14 07:01:33 1997 Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 06:52:02 -0400 From: Daniel Quick Subject: BMW: Re: K throttle synch To: IBMWR mailing list Reply-To: Daniel Quick ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- Posted to the list with Rob's permission, for your information. From: Daniel Quick To: Rob Lentini Subject: K throttle synch Date: Sunday, July 13, 1997 6:01 AM Rob, It may be worth adding an addendum to the details relating to this operation on the K-tech site, to the effect that the throttle position switch should be backed off (turned anti clockwise) as I found that it c= an take over idle speed control form the adjustment screw, giving false readings. It took some head scratching this am to work out why the bike w= as ticking over at 1500 rpm! The effect of the synching is outstanding, vibes all but eliminated, and more go all together. BTW on the subject of the throttle position switch, as you know the rearmost screw is a nightmare to get at, so I never bother, I find that i= f the front screw is loosened, the switch can be assisted to ones desired location with a drift and large hammer acting on the metal screw plate. A= bodge I know, but that rear screw really is a pain! Safe Riding Daniel Quick = dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/dlquick Oxford UK Flautist Extraordinaire :-) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 13 17:09:09 1997 Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 16:50:01 -0400 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: RE: K100RT Speedometer and Windscreen Cc: Michael & Cindy Jones Reply-To: Don Eilenberger Doc has the K-speedo blues.. >Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 00:40:38 -0400 >From: Michael & Cindy Jones >Subject: BMW: K100RT Speedometer and Windscreen > >Two weeks ago, I purchased an 85 K100RT and promptly became an IBMWR >member. I have found this list to be both informative and humourous, keep >up the good work. > >I have a slight problem with the motorcycle which the dealer is currently >working on, the speedometer doesn't do what it was designed to do. When I >first rode away, the speedometer registered correctly. Within 8-10 kms it >started surging, reading quite low then back to what I figured my current >speed was. The performance rapidly deteriorated from there! > >Currently, it will work for about 10 minutes if it decides to cooperate. > Typically, it will surge between the 10 km/h and 100 km/h readings for >several minutes then just plain quit. This is a problem. Any ideas? Sure - visit the IBMWR web site and follow the K-tech faq pages.. lots and lots of good info there on fixing the beasties. I'd also suggest when done - put a wrap of 1" electrical tape around the joint between the front and rear halves of the instrument housing - it will completely (trust me on this!) eliminate the moisture induced fogging these instruments are prone to - and help eliminate future corrosion of the electrical contacts inside. I did submit a FAQ myself - with a condensation of several other Prez's techniques and a few of my own a while back, butt haven't visited to see if it's up yet. >Since this is a new machine to me, I was unable to estimate my groundspeed >with any accuracy. Until I could return it to the dealer for repair, I was >using the "pace car" method of speed estimation. Pick a car and pace it, >this is OK unless you have chosen someone travelling much faster than the >speed limit . A BMW 318i that I chose to pace the other day had the >tachometer reading 6250 rpm and I was in fifth gear, the owners manual >indicates that this was around 160 km/h and the limit was 100! OOPS! Simple way to know how fast you're going - providing your tach is working.. in 5th gear, the '85 K100RT (and other models may vary - they used a different rear-end ratio) - the two needles EXACTLY track.. ie, they are in the same relative position. This is obviously only true in 5th.. and somehow I don't think it was an accident on BMW's/Motometer's part. >The second question pertains to the windscreen on the RT and the LT. As a >6' tall rider, my head sticks well into the windstream coming off the top >of the RT screen. Rather than get buffetted (sp) to death, I was hoping >that I could replace the windscreen with something else. At the dealer, I >noticed that the fairings on the RT and LT looked to be identical; if so, >this means that the windscreens can be interchanged. Can someone out there >validate this conclusion? Yup. If you've got the bucks (about $700) - you can even install the K-LT electric windshield.. it bolts right up. >All in all, I am very happy with my K100RT and will be much happier when I >know how fast I am going. All assistance greatly appreciated. Like I sez - look at the tach. >Michael "Doc" Jones mcmjonesNoSpam@NoSpamhawk.igs.net > http://www.hawk.igs.net/~mcmjones >IBMWR Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From hutchinsNoSpam@NoSpamsky.net Sun Jul 13 10:12:34 1997 Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 08:59:09 -0500 To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net From: Jonathan Hutchins Subject: Re: BMW: K fuel tank venting Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com At 12:26 AM 7/13/97 -0400, Thomas Hundt wrote: >|Speaking of these hoses, where are they supposed to end up? >|Right now, mine just run down to the tire-side of the swingarm and dangle - >|occasionally rubbing a shiny patch near the sidewall and beveling the hoses >|nicely. It's no big deal, but it doesn't seem quite "BMW". >That's basically where mine are, too. I have yet to find the >place on the crankcase where the SHED one once connected to. >I want to, for my own curiosity, to make sure that hole is >properly plugged, and in case Cal DMV starts emissions-testing >bikes. I believe that not all bikes were SHED equipped, and some didn't come with the crankcase fitting. Mine certainly seems that way, and I've had most of the junk off of the top of the engine, so I think I'd've seen it if it were there. Jonathan Hutchins hutchinsNoSpam@NoSpamsky.net The Wolf's Den BBS (FIDO 1:280/76) FAA A&P, PPSEL '85 K100 (LT) From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 20 16:54:44 1997 Date: Sun, 20 Jul 1997 16:44:19 -0400 From: "Scott C. Adams" Organization: Attorney at Law, P.O. Box 4069, Akron, Ohio 44321-0069 To: kellye culberth , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: K-guard heat shields X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: "Scott C. Adams" kellye culberth wrote: > If anyone has any K-guard heat shields they'd be willing to part > with, or knows where I might find some, *please* contact me. > > Many thanks, > > kellye Kellye - just met the guy who makes them at a ralley in Ohio a couple of weeks ago. His flyer gives the following info: Husky Mountain PO Box 593 Kingston, TN 37763 423-376-4968 (Mine are due on monday...) -Scott -- *********************************************************************** ** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) ** ** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com ** ** 1426 Copley Meadows, Copley, Ohio 44321, USA (North East Ohio) ** ** Voice (330) 668-2006 Fax (330) 668-2006 ** ** KWhiner MC#13 BMWMOA #61199 BMWRA AMA #270-228/270-229 ** ** 91 K100RS16V(Mine) 86 K75C Low(Hers) Trailer Behind KRS(Baby) ** *********************************************************************** From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 01:00:22 1997 Date: Mon, 21 Jul 1997 21:44:43 -0700 From: Marcello Mirabelli To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: K1 Owner Comments Reply-To: Marcello Mirabelli I've owned my 90 K1 since they first came out (seven years ago). I think it's a fantastic bike. More refined and powerful than my K100RS I traded in. The motorcycle was designed for high speed touring, period. At low speeds, it feels heavy and gets a bit warm. I believe the heavy feeling comes from a slightly longer wheelbase and larger turning radius than other K's. But once at speed, the handling is superb. One thing you don't want to do is chop the throttle in a turn, it will want to fall in on you. You need to keep just a little bit of throttle on into a turn, not too much though. Master cylinders were a problem on the K1. I've had two replaced due to leaking. One was fully replaced under warranty, the other partially covered was done last year. I understand that the one they put on is an updated design and should not leak. There is code number stamped on the master cylinder which denotes the updated version, unfortunately, I don't remeber the threshold when they switched over. The code on my cylinder is 505, so if the one you're getting is at least this high, you should be OK. Just ask your local dealer, he should be able to help out. The riding position takes a bit of getting used to. I find it comfortable even on long rides (6-8 hours), but I'm relatively short (5'6"). I now find that sitting on other bikes feels somewhat awkward, so, you do get used to it. Someone mentioned the amount of plastic body parts. Yes, there is a lot of it. If you drop it, you'll end up paying big bucks for replacement parts. What makes for a very clean and aerodynamic structure also makes for a real pain when you have to work on the machine. There are a bunch of screws and panels you have to remove to get access to the engine. This equates to expensive repair bills from your dealer simply from the excees time required to remove body parts. Or if you do your own work, the amount of time required on your part. I'll never sell the K1. It's destined to be a collector item. It's fast, has a stunning design, and is very unique. I just plain love riding the thing. But, you really have to want one because it is not the most practical of bikes. Carrying space is small unless you get the bags. It's not fun in traffic. Did I mention this thing is fast? It will do over 152, I know because I was there and it wanted to keep going. The only mod was changing the chip to a Luftmeister variety so a pure stock model will do quite well. Anyway, enjoy the K1 if you get it. Drop a line if you have any other questions.... Marcello bmwk1NoSpam@NoSpamgte.net 90 K1 95 M3 From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 20:58:52 1997 From: "James Mulligan" To: geobasNoSpam@NoSpamslip.net, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 14:50:43 +0000 Subject: Re: BMW: Front Forks Reply-To: "James Mulligan" > I'm re-installing the front forks on my 92 K100RS and the book (Clymers) > says . . . Push the fork tube up until the top surface is 6 mm above the > top surface of the upper fork bridge . . . I think I remembered the fork > tubes being flush with the fork bridge. Thats almost 1\4" difference and > wouldn't that make some change to the handling? On my 85 K100 RS they are flush. Jim From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 22:55:26 1997 From: burketNoSpam@NoSpamirwin.vetrol.com Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 22:00:26 -0500 Subject: Re: BMW: Front Forks To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: burketNoSpam@NoSpamirwin.vetrol.com About 2-3 mm above the top of the top triple clamp on my '92 K100RS Tim Burke Vero Beach, FL From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 01:07:15 1997 Date: Thu, 24 Jul 1997 23:55:10 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams To: RONALD ROHNER Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Info on K-100 needed for future purchase Reply-To: Geoff Adams I bought my K from a friend who owned it since new. I got it with 67k last September and it just turned 90k coming back from Paonia. It runs all day at 100mph and has only needed tires and oil and filter changes. It uses no oil. Splines are perfect. Gearbox is slick and trouble free. The power is addictive. Vibration is overstated. I had ridden airheads since '73. I could never go back. But it IS hot this time of year. Geoff Adams '85KRS MOA 22753 TBC Arlington, TX IBMWR BMWDFW NTCOF tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net LSBMWR "We are confronted with insurmountable opportunities!" -Pogo. ____________________________________________________________________________ From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 19:59:50 1997 From: "Greg" To: "Drs. J.C. Blom" , "Internet BMW Riders" Subject: BMW: Re: K100 problem Date: Sat, 26 Jul 1997 08:00:23 +1000 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Greg" ---------- > > Hello fellow BMW maniacs > > I'm having a problem with my '91 K100 that I can't solve for some reason. > I was having starter problems and as they got worse and worse, I decided to > have the starter clutch replaced. This was done by a non-BMW mechanic, as > the regular dealers are beyond my budget for a job like this. After I got my > bike back I took it for a drive and everything was perfect again. However, > after about 70 kms, I shifted gear and all of a sudden the most horrible > noises came from the engine. it sounded like a bearing having gone, or > something that came loose all of a sudden and started going TACTACTACTAC. Jan, Greetings from Oz......check my post on K100 starter clutch. I also have had to rebuild the starter clutch ......3 times in 5 years. It is CRITICAL that the single bolt which secures the alternator drive flange is secured into the aux. drive shaft with LOCTITE and torqued to 33Nm. This bolt not only keeps this flange but also retains the whole starter clutch assembly to the rear bearing mounted in the bellhousing. If this bolt lets go what happens is that on throttling the engine back, the helical cut gears forces the aux. drive shaft away from this bearing and into the bearing in the rear of the engine block. It is not designed for this resulting in continuous pounding of this bearing with disastrous results. Usually the bearing is destroyed with pieces of it getting in the crankshaft drive gear, which you describe. The TACTACTAC is this shaft pounding this gear, damaging the shaft also and allowing the whole clutch assembly to rock around. DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE WITH A TACTACTACTAC. It sounds to me that this is your problem however I thought it would be evident on a pulldown. Check the front needle roller bearing and shaft carefully. Any signs of trouble means they must be replaced. Unfortunately this starter clutch problem dogs an otherwise brilliant bike. Best of luck. Greg 84 K100RS Queensland, Australia. themuirsNoSpam@NoSpamonaustralia.com.au From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Mon Jul 28 06:15:17 1997 From: "Greg" To: "BMW Mailing List" Subject: BMW: K100 starter clutch Date: Mon, 28 Jul 1997 19:59:21 +1000 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Greg" ---------- > > Hello fellow BMW maniacs > > I'm having a problem with my '91 K100 that I can't solve for some reason. > I was having starter problems and as they got worse and worse, I decided to > have the starter clutch replaced. This was done by a non-BMW mechanic, as > the regular dealers are beyond my budget for a job like this. After I got my > bike back I took it for a drive and everything was perfect again. However, > after about 70 kms, I shifted gear and all of a sudden the most horrible > noises came from the engine. it sounded like a bearing having gone, or > something that came loose all of a sudden and started going TACTACTACTAC. Jan, Greetings from Oz......check my post on K100 starter clutch. I also have had to rebuild the starter clutch ......3 times in 5 years. It is CRITICAL that the single bolt which secures the alternator drive flange is secured into the aux. drive shaft with LOCTITE and torqued to 33Nm. This bolt not only keeps this flange but also retains the whole starter clutch assembly to the rear bearing mounted in the bellhousing. If this bolt lets go what happens is that on throttling the engine back, the helical cut gears forces the aux. drive shaft away from this ball-bearing and into the needle-bearing in the rear of the engine block. It is not designed for this resulting in continuous pounding of this bearing with disastrous results. Usually the bearing is destroyed with pieces of it getting in the crankshaft drive gear, which you describe. The TACTACTAC is this shaft pounding this gear, damaging the shaft also and allowing the whole clutch assembly to rock around. DO NOT RIDE THE BIKE WITH A TACTACTACTAC. It sounds to me that this is your problem however I thought it would be evident on a pulldown. Check the front needle roller bearing and shaft carefully. Any signs of trouble means they must be replaced. Unfortunately this starter clutch problem dogs an otherwise brilliant bike. Best of luck. Greg 84 K100RS Queensland, Australia. themuirsNoSpam@NoSpamonaustralia.com.au K Bike Performance Improvements Walt: Here's some K info I sent out a while back. If you'd like to include it on you www please feel free to do so. Rob --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Louis, Here are the major things I've done to my S over the years... Engine- * - Ignition timing has been advanced, resulting in better throttle response and more low/midrange power. Send me your mailing address and I'll mail you an article I wrote that was published in BMWON. * - Fuel mixture has been very accurately set using an emissions analyzer. In addition to setting the air flow meter idle mixture adjustment to 2% CO, I have also recalibrated the air flap potentiometer to ensure the mixture is about 1% CO at cruise RPMs. Yours may be fine already. Assuming you don't have an analyzer, bring it to you BMW dealer and hook it up to theirs. Idle should be 2%, and full fast idle (start lever all the way CCW, about 4-5 K RPM) should drop to about 1%. Strangely, some Ks seem to be VERY lean which results in higher operating temperatures and less power. By the way, do the timing advance adjustment prior to setting fuel mixture. Note: adjusting the potentiometer is precision work requiring patience. If your bike is under warranty, you may void it. If still interested in "how to do", let me know. * - Valve adjustment is not critical, but can affect overall performance. You should shoot for intake clearances that are on the tight side of the spec, and exhaust on the loose side. Any time you adjust valves you will need to resynch the throttle butterfly bypass screws. I use a carb stix, an inexpensive mercury manometer. * - Use your favorite brand of oil at the proper viscosity and change it and the filter every 2500-3000 miles. DO NOT use ANY oil additives! I know, BMW filters are expensive, and the dealers will advise otherwise, but I use a Fram PH3614 filter available for $3 at auto discount stores. You choice. Keep the oil level between the sight window center dot and the upper mark. * - Install a K&N cotton gauze air filter to achieve more air flow and a noticeable power improvement. * - Replace the stock muffler with a Staintune slip-on muffler. It will improve your throttle response, looks great, and is lighter than stock. Quality is first-rate, and the sound has a slight attitude, though barely louder than stock. Staintune is available from California BMW-Triumph. I just saw a used one advertised on the net today. * - That about it for the engine--nothing radical at all, just basic "getting things optimum". By the way, don't expect any K to put out its full power potential until after 20,000 miles. They really are tightly clearanced, and the Nikasil cylinders won't smooth out until this much running. Suspension and brakes: * - The K75S has a nice front end, but it can be improved. I think the stock fork springs are too stiff. I've replaced them with Progessive Suspension #1126 springs which are much more compliant to bumps. I use 5 wt fork oil, 280 ccs per leg, with 3-5% Dow Corning Gear Guard M added to the oil. This REALLY improves compliance and response to small bumps. Gear Guard M is a concentrated molybenum additive, available from bearing supply stores in one quart bottles for about $20. Sounds expensive, but one quart will last you a LONG time. This stuff is hightly recommended by Orlando "Oak" Okleshen, a leading BMW tech guru, for use in transmissions and final drives. I used to use Kal Gard Smooth Stroke fork oil with moly. Now I use Bel-Ray and mix in the additive myself, saving money. * - Replace the grabby front brake pads with SBS. They do less damage to the rotors, are very controllable, have good power, stop well in the wet, and the matching rear pads have lower friction for better controllability. If you have ABS the rear pad friction compound matters less, if at all. * - Rear suspension can be improved, likewise. The K75S shock works OK, but is nothing to write home about. There are two good options here. If you ride fast, and weigh 180 or more, Ohlins, Fox, White Power, and Progressive all make good aftermarket shocks. I currently have a Progressive "Adaptive" shock on my bike. It's a little stiffer than I'd like, but is smoothing out with the miles. Prior to this, I ran a BMW Nivomat shock for a long time, and it worked GREAT. I only changed over because I needed to be able to adjust ride height for two different wheel sets I use. The Nivomat is self adjusting for ride height and damping. I think you really might like one. They may be found used in BMWON flea market. Even new, they are cheaper than many of the premium aftermarket units. Tires- * - Certainly a matter of preference, but I want high mileage AND handling (who doesn't?). I recommend Dunlop D401s, Elite IIs, or Metzeler ME88s front and rear. Dunlops are a better value, and even work well at the track. I ran a set of D401s (they're getting hard to get, Harley sizes only now being produced) at CLASS at Willow Springs. They never lost traction and performed GREAT! I've run many different tire combinations and will mail you my analysis with the ignition timing procedure, if you want. Transmission and Final Drive * - This is very important!!! Routinely clean and lubricate clutch and driveshaft splines, at least every year or 20K miles. I've had two spline failures at the final drive end. A good rule of thumb is to grease these EVERY tire change. I know, it's a pain, but it's not hard to remove four bolts, pull the drive back, and do your thing. It's SOOOO expensive to face the alternative! * - Use 75-90 gear oil, again laced with 3-5% Gear Guard moly. You will notice measureable shifting improvement. Summary: Louis, you can see I've done nothing radical to this machine other than relentless preventive maintenance, peaking of specs, and, I might add, keeping the motorcycle spotless. Routine cleaning uncovers problems as they develop, keeping you ahead of the game. OK, I am experimenting with a wide KRS 18" rear wheel with radials. Requires machining and some workarounds though, but the bike looks neat! So far, so good. Good luck with your bike, and give me your address if you want the mailings. Happy wrenching! Work carefully and methodically and QC your work! Later!!! Rob Lentini '87 K75S Tucson, AZ From Don Eilenberger Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 22:37:32 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: Re: BMW: K-knock (and ya still only got 2 days!) At 09:24 PM 8/22/97 -0500, Geoff Adams wrote: >On Fri, 22 Aug 1997, Don Eilenberger wrote: > >> Jack offers Gerrit: >> >> My '85 K100RT also had the idle-knock.. and it's gone now. >> >> The cause of the knock is described in Mick Walkers book on >> K bikes (which I don't own - but borrow frequently from another >> prez..). The original K lower-shaft (the output from the crankshaft >> isn't directly to the clutch - it goes to a shaft which runs under >> the crankshaft - they are geared together) - used an 'anti-rattle' >> gear on the gear on the lower shaft (a seperate small spring loaded >> gear meant to take up any play in the gear-mating and remove >> noises) - really didn't work right for long.. there was a modification, >> which also is on the K75 - but slightly different.. >> >> The noise exhibits itself as a knocking noise at idle - sounds like >> it's coming from right under the alternator (it is) and a sound >> of rattling gears on de-acceleration at certain engine speeds/loads. > >I have been listening to this noise (almost feeling it more than hearing >it) for 25k since I got my RS. I was commenting yesterday to the >previous owner of my bike that I suspected the anti-backlash gear because >it was the only thing this powertrain seems to have that could make a >noise I've never heard before. :) > >I would like to know more about the modification. Does anyone have that >info? Mine is a very early '85. Actually - Walker's book has quite a bit on it.. the modification is not something that could be economically done - and the results are questionable. It would require complete disassembly of the lower shaft (basically the entire bottom end).. and quite a few parts. The mod was a redesign of the antibacklash gear - and the clip that holds it in place (which on the earlier design was also the spring which kept tension on this gear to keep it in constant mesh with the main gears). I suspect an early '85 - you're looking at more work than the value of the bike (and mine is also an early '85). > >> OK - what made mine go away - redoing the rear-engine seal, which >> required re-torquing the clutch basket nut. Dunno why - since the >> nut certainly was tight when I removed it (it was NOT easy to >> loosen - required some good grunting). My random guess is that >> retorquing it (which requires torquing it to a high value, loosening >> it again, and then retorquing it to a bit lower value) - took up >> some free play in the innards - and basically the knock is completely >> gone, and the gear rattle barely noticeable. >> >I'm expecting to reseal things here sometime, but would like to assure >that I know what to fix. Rather than to just hope for the best. It's a no-loss thing.. if it needs resealing (and my guess is that 90% of the time - it's the O ring not the seal - my O ring was dried up and hard.. the seal looked perfect) - the process of doing it is going to retorque the clutch basket.. so if you do the seals, you're doing the retorquing anyway - and mebbe it WILL be better when you're done (and mebbe the noise will reappear in 15k miles - which is about when it seems to appear in the early K's..). The important thing is that with the exception of the noise being caused by a loose clutch basket - I've never heard of the noise leading to damage to anything.. and that's with people with lots of miles on their K's... >Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net Kinda a FWIW - at the North East Prez' Breakfast - 'cause I was worried about the oil drool on my K (leaking from the clutch weep hole), I started checking other K's in the lot. ALL of the '85 and '86 bikes were dribbling (some lots worse than mine) some of the '87-88's were, and the newer ones were still dry. Means to me that the O ring has a lifetime of prolly 10-12 years - and since it isn't a wearing part (it's held stationary between the nut and the clutch basket - to seal the output shaft where it fits on the basket) - I suspect it's just old age that causes it to leak. Heat and time take a toll on rubber parts - especially ones which are stationary. Best, ======================================= Don Eilenberger Spring Lk Hts, NJ, USA deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ======================================= From Geoff Adams Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 20:06:11 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: K BIKE WATER PUMP SHAFT I agree with all of Brian's stuff about the water pump seal configuration. I just rebuilt mine. If I recall correctly, this thread started about another '85 K (as is mine). The '85's have a shaft with a threaded nose for the impeller and a nut to hold it on. Later ones have internal threads and a bolt. The threaded nose on the '85 is prone to twist off with the nut. Mine was 3/4 fractured and fell off after I removed the nut. So have the replacement shaft available if yours is an '85. They will interchange. Also, just being carefull as I had not done this job before, I got out my Haynes manual before installing the new seals. It says, "On reassembly, first fit the rear seal, with it's manufacturer's marks or numbers facing forwards, .....", which I did, thinking to myself, "Gee this looks backwards". And of course it was. The open side is the pressure side and faces the oil pump just like any other similar seal. I got to do this whole job twice. Apparently the manufacturer's marks and numbers can be on either side of the seal. It really pains me to admit that I didn't realize that the book was carelessly written on this point. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net TBC NTCOF K100RS MOA22753 IBMWR BMWDFW LSBMWR Superstition: A belief justified neither by reason nor evidence nor by any religious canon. The New Lexicon Webster's Dictionary of the English Language From Tom Nash Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:05:33 -0700 Subject: BMW: RE: Mirror Leashes Mike, >How do you remove the mirrors to put the leash on?< The mirrors are held on by three spring clips, two at the aft end and one at the front. Here's how I remove them: Put the bike on the center stand. Stand on the same side of the bike as the mirror you want to remove. Grasp the mirror housing with both hands - one on top, and one underneath so that you don't drop the mirror when it comes loose. Pull back and rotate in slightly as you pull - this will rotate the forward part of the mirror housing off the single forward spring clip, which then allows you some rotational leverage to pop it off the two aft spring clips. It may take a fairly hefty tug to pop the first clip. At this point I rotate down slightly to pop the top aft clip, and then rotate either up or down a bit more to pop the bottom aft clip. Once you have popped the mirror loose, don't move the mirror away from the fairing until you unplug the turn signal connector. Note that the turn signal connector will only fit into it's socket one way, so you cannot reverse the connections. You _can_ pop the mirror from the front by standing in front and popping the aft clips first, but I find it easier my way. Also, my way puts the pulling forces towards the center stand, and in the direction that tends to keep the bike on the stand. If you pull from the front, you are working against two clips instead of one, and if you have a stuck mirror, there is the risk of pulling the bike forward off the center stand, at which point the concrete will remove the mirror for you. (You also only have a 50% chance of removing the correct mirror this way.) When re-installing, reverse the process, i.e., connect the electrical connector, put the two aft clips on first, and then rotate forward to pop the front clip on. Before you re-install, check the clips. You may have to take a pair of needle-nosed pliers and crimp them slightly. Hold the mirror up to the mounting pins and check the alignment of the clips and the pins they fit over. You may have to further adjust the clips with the needle-nosed pliers. If you find yourself really pushing hard to re-install, and you are shoving the bike on it's stand all over the garage, you have mis-aligned clips and mounting pins. Stop, go get a beer, and eyeball the alignment of the pins and clips again. The mirror should pop into place with a satisfying clunk, if it is done properly. Tom Nash '94 K1100RS San Francisco From David Brick Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 08:09:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: BMW: K bike questions (3) On Wed, 17 Sep 1997 IFR10NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > 1. A just bought a 1992 K75RT (18K). There seems to be a gear noise present > that abruptly stops at about 2500 RPM as I am accelerating. It does it in > all gears but doesn't seem to do it in neutral. Some say it is the counter > balance shafts but I am looking for other K75 owners to tell me if theirs > does the same. Some do, many don't, and it's caused by the deterioration of a spring between two gears on the intermediate shaft; the spring is supposed to prevent the noise, but when the spring softens, the noise occurs. Mine did it above 3400 rpm. A serious major pain in the wallet to fix, as one must remove and disassemble the engine cases. People just leave 'em alone, as they noise doesn't seem to contribute to any kind of mechanical difficulties. > Practically, I ride the bike over 2500 RPM so after leaving first gear it is > not a problem but I need to decide if it is normal or not. __________________________________________________________________________ David Brick Santa Cruz CA dbrickNoSpam@NoSpamarmory.com 96 BMW R11RSL RA MOA BOOF etc From Phil Space Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 19:35:00 -0400 Subject: RE: BMW: K100 Tech The fuel injectors shouldn't cause the backfire - check the microswitch on the end of the throttle shaft - you should hear it click when the throttle goes all the way back to idle. The switch is the fuel shut off trigger for the computer and it can be adjusted with set by loosening the set screw and rotating the assembly. If it always backfires at 2000, then it might not be adjusted right. > By the way, last spring, after experiencing some intermittent power losses > due to a sticky injector I replaced the original fuel injectors with a nice > set of automotive ones. What an improvement! The bike runs noticeably > smoother and throttle response is excellent. It does backfire sometimes on > deceleration, but K bikes all do that with sport injectors installed, or so > I'm told. Anyway, I recommend the mod if you haven't done it yet. > Great idea. I thought that they looked the same as on my Volvo, but I suppose any Bosch injector will do? Which ones did you use? Mine pops a bit too, even after all the synchro stuff, but just at the 2000 rpm fuel-on point. How do you tell if they're toast? Ken Dibnah 85 K100RS From Wendell_GurleyNoSpam@NoSpamnotes.toyota.com Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:21:42 -0700 Subject: BMW: pop starting a K Wendell GurleyNoSpam@NoSpamTOYOTA 09/19/97 09:21 AM Absolutely, but I don't recommend it. I've done it several times, but the K bikes have a peculiar tendency to overcook the contact the with the starter motor and weld the connection in place. This causes the starter to remain engaged whenever the ignition is on. The dealer strongly recommended against bump starting K bikes. But in a pinch... >fire and fuel pressure to be right - can you push start a K-bike with a dead >battery? From lconleyNoSpam@NoSpamhns.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 18:03:56 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW:Help with...Fuel Pump cut out on K75s Don Cuomo: > The hiss from the fuel pump has stopped. The female pins on the fuel pump connector have poor tensile strength which causes intermittent operation over time. Pull the right side cover and unplug the connector. Deform the female pins by placing a jewelers screwdriver, etc. between each pin and its respective housing. Clean them with a stiff fiber brush and isopropyl alcohol. I experienced the same symptoms on the way back from Daytona. Thankfully they haven't returned anytime recently. ;-) Lou "Louge" Conley Gaithersburg, MD Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 18:37:04 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Subject: Re: BMW: k1100LT Fuel Tank Size Jerry Harris wrote: > >---SNIP----- I am > seriously thinking about picking up a K11LT to suppliment the R for some > trips next spring to Missoula, Colorado, etc. But try as I might, I > can't get past the one item that is totally inconsistent with the term > "touring" bike. How can anyone expect to "tour" on a piddly 4 gallons > of petrol or a 150 mile range? (The R is bad enough with 6 gallons that > get me 200 miles). Thats finding gas every two hours (or less in > Montana). -------SNIP----- > -- > Jerry Harris Santa Cruz, CA > '96 R1100RSL "Raven" Black, too! > '73 R75/5 "Burnt Toast" Black Two Now gone to a new owner!! Jerry, my K has a 5.2 gallon tank and the worst mileage I have ever gotten with a fully loaded bike and a 40mph headwind was 178 miles. I usually get 42-45 mpg out of it. That's over 200 miles and you should take a break anyway! > > That's what's cool about working with computers. They don't argue, they > remember everything and they don't drink all your beer. > Paul Leary, guitar player, 1991 - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 09:59:51 -0400 From: Jeff Dunkle Subject: BMW: K75 Timing - Finally Did It I know this is an old subject, but I finally did the timing exercise last night on my '86 K75. Now I wonder why I waited so long. I've known for months that Rob Lentini's technique to check/adjust the timing on a K bike had been posted by Tom Coradeschi on the IBMWR web site K tech pages, but never took the time to do the procedure. I finally did, it took less than an hour, and was slick and simple. I'm writing this in case there are folks new-ish to IBMWR who don't know about the technique, or aren't aware that there's a lot of great service and repair information on the IBMWR web site. K's, of course, have electronic ignition triggering that the manuals say require special dealer equipment for timing adjustment. Using Rob's technique it's relatively simple to set the bike up so a normal inductive timing light can be used to adjust the timing, and then recheck it at any time. It's too soon to see how much an effect the adjustment will have on my bike's mileage, but it idles more easily, accelerates a bit more briskly and feels more lively at the top end. All this for less than an hour's work and no cost in parts. Take a few minutes to check out the web site's tech pages if you haven't lately. Rob, Tom, and lots of others have contributed pieces on a slew of topics. I even managed to get something up there....but certainly don't consider myself in the techno-nerd league (respectfully) of these folks. Thanks to them and the guys who maintain these pages. Next stop........my K's air flow sensor! Jeff Dunkle Date: Mon, 13 Oct 1997 16:10:23 -0700 (MST) From: TBLACKNoSpam@NoSpamcc.colorado.edu Subject: BMW: 200K Well it's brag time folks. My K100RT turned over 200,000 miles this weekend. So far it continues to run the same as always. That is all. Ciao Tony Tony Black tblackNoSpam@NoSpamcc.colorado.edu Colorado Springs K100RT R75/6 Honda CBX Yamaha RZ350 K1200RS (on order) TBLACKNoSpam@NoSpamcc.colorado.edu Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 08:18:24 -0400 From: "Scott C. Adams" Subject: Re: BMW: Seasonal Thread.. Heating clothes (OZ - hit DELETE) Don Eilenberger wrote: > Yup.. one of the reasons to also own a K bike.. given all the > electric heat stuff (Gerbing jacket liner, Gerbing gloves).. and: > With the K bike - not a worry. > > Best, > > ======================================= > Don Eilenberger Don - I wish you wouldnt go spreading those lies. I happen to own a K bike and have LOTS of problems. You have to worry UNLESS you have the 700 watt alternator which bikes from 1993? on or so do. Before that 460 aint even close to enough. Me: Driving Lights (110 Watts), Heated Grips, 100 Watt Highbeam, Gerbings Jacket, Heated Chaps. You can play any 3 and be okay. Above that it gets dicey. I have had to put in a voltmeter (ya I know, not the best way but it works) to watch voltage across the top of the battery start to drop when I get too much on. Again I say - 460 aint even close to enough. - -scott - -- *********************************************************************** ** SCOTT ADAMS (KB8PRS) or FRANCES ADAMS (KB8PRL) ** ** adamsesqNoSpam@NoSpamgwis.com fwaNoSpam@NoSpamsbstone.com ** Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 03:13:29 -0400 From: Bob DeHaney Subject: BMW: 150mph, etc. Just to throw in another factor, all motors in Germany are type approved and a variation of + - 5% is allowed in production. The K bikes run at t= he upper end of the variation. Bob in Munich '94 K1100RS Date: Tue, 28 Oct 97 8:39:04 EST From: Tom Coradeschi Subject: Re: BMW: "Euro Sport" Cams for K100 Geoff Adams: >On Mon, 20 Oct 1997, Deryle and Wanda Mehrten wrote: >> Looking at my receipts I see the part numbers as: >> >> 11311460044 CAMSHAFT 185.52 EA > >I'm going from memory here, but I think my Haynes manual showed that >non-California '85 K100s had intake valves closing 10 deg later than >California models and after '85 all US models were California spec. >So...maybe only the intake cam is different, thus only one part number. The change is in the intake valve open timing. The PostIt(tm) on my monitor includes the following info. I'm fairly sure that 49-state 1985 model bikes had the Euro cams (can't see BMW making a Euro, a US 49-state AND a CA cam, when only 2 would do). 1986-??? US bikes all have the CA intake cam. (Valve Timing NoSpam@NoSpam 3mm lift) Euro US Intake Open 5 BTDC 5 ATDC Intake Close 27 ABDC 27 ABDC Exhaust Open 28 BBDC 28 BBDC Exhaust Close 5 BTDC 5 BTDC Lift: Intake 9.3927 mm (0.3698 in) Exhaust 9.3819 mm (0.3694 in) tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org BMW's Miracle Ride was October 12th! Date: Sat, 8 Nov 1997 17:24:12 -0500 (EST) From: MRob46NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: Re: BMW: Re: K75 What Octane On Nov. 8 LCarl14 wrote: >>The manual for my 95 K75 specifies premium (93 octane).<< Okay, you made me go to the garage and get my book :-). I stand corrected--my manual does not say 87 octane as I thought it did, it says "Unleaded middle or premium grade fuel, minimum octane number 89..." Now I remember, I used to use 89 octane until my friends started asking me why I was wasting my money. Since then I have used 87 octane with no problems. Marilyn Roberts St. Louis '94 K75 Gateway Riders BMWMOA AMA Date: 13 Nov 1997 11:37:11 U From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: K75 with closed valves - BTDT Sue Rihn wrote: >This is what he found: The air-cleaner was covered in oil (not sure >where the leak was), a breather hose was cracked, and 2 valves were >tight. REAL tight. The last time I had the valves checked was 15K ago, >and there is no comment by the mechanic at Mischler's BMW that they were >even a little out of sinc. Sue.....I had this problem with my K75 around 1992 when it had 60K. The number two exhaust valve slowly tightened to .008 and the cold idle and mileage both dropped big time. My dealer at the time swore it wasn't the valve clearances, because "K's never do that," and I was too naive to question them, so we fiddled with this and that, and eventually found the tight valve. Shortly thereafter, I started checking clearances every 10K, and found that the troubled exhaust valve would lose about .003 every 20K. In other words, if I installed a shim to bring it to the high side of the spec, after 20K it would be borderline on the low side. It exhibited this tendency up to about 110K, and now at 141K seems to have stabilized. The other valves have been changing randomly tho, so I suspect the bike is just getting old and finally showing the wear of getting beat on in a city/commuting environment with lots of idling and heat......its too bad because it absolutely rules in city riding compared to my Oilheads, and I also happen to look stunning on it. Ask anyone. :) I expect that valve work will be needed somewhere between 160-175K. I'm guessing at that number because the bike still doesn't use a drop of oil, its fuel economy is pretty acceptable, and cold starting is terrific. But when push comes to shove, I will probably pick up a spare K75 engine from the MOA classifieds or Eurotech for $500 and dismantle it as necessary to keep the old geezer running. Jon Diaz Date: Wed, 19 Nov 1997 10:12:05 -0600 (CST) From: viper655NoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com (Dr.Robert A. Harms) Subject: Re: BMW: K Fuel Pumps You wrote: > > >In a message dated 97-11-19 09:52:06 EST, p_vglavesNoSpam@NoSpamcjnetworks.com writes: > ><< >>At 100,000+ miles, it coundn't hurt to replace the fuel pump. The good > >>doctor knows: "they even replace hearts these days." Someone should > >ask > >>him; about his mileage problems. > >> > >>---------"Yellow K(12)EN"------- > > Can't imagine why a routine replacement at 100K should be needed. Mine has > lasted 220K without a burp - except when there was no gas left to pump! > > Paul Glaves > >> >Mine died a sudden death somewhere around 70k (93 K11rs, not that that should >make a difference) and I am now the proud owner of a NAPA pump for a 4 cyl >Mustang, $80 and doing fine. > >Bill Z > Wow... thats a helluva deal. I was always looking for Bosche pumps when faced with that problem and ended up converting the bike to a Weber carb with zero fuel pump. Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 13:10:44 -0600 (CST) From: Paul or Voni Glaves Subject: BMW: K front end help >Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:01:19 -0500 (EST) >From: JPDR1100NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com >Subject: BMW: K front end help > >I've just torn into my new-to-me 85 K100RS. Rather than learn in my normal >"break it and replace it" manner, I thought I'd tap the collective wisdom of >the K wrenches here who busted knuckles so that others may learn. >Goal is to replace fork seals and steering head bearings. Questions: > >1. Manual says to remove the lower bearing from the stem, push the stem >through the lower triple clamp. Seems like a lot of work. Anyone got an >easier way? Pry the cage off the lower bearing and pick up the rollers off the floor. Then score the inner race with a Dremel tool at two spots 180 degrees apart. Use a small chisel in one of the score marks to split the race, whcih will then slip off easily. >2. Any secrets to removing the outer races from the frame other than gentle >pounding? No! Except a race puller from Ed Korn or a slide hammer if you can get very thin jaws which go wide enough. > >3. I've got ripped gaiters sealing the forks to the fairing. I know they >were elliminated on newer models for air flow. But the inside of my fairing >has stayed real clean. Whats the wisdom, replace them or go naked? Irrelevant really! They keep the air from driving up under your chin and jacket in some cases. > >4. Fork boots, yea or ney? > Boots - absolutely! Don't leave home without them. Paul Glaves Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 21:33:30 -0500 From: largiaderNoSpam@NoSpamworldlynx.net (Largiader, Anton) Subject: BMW: Re: K-Bike Choke Lamp I think if you don't have the emblem, you don't have the switch. But you do have the bulb. You need to buy a switch (same as the rear brake switch) and install it into the threaded hole in back of the throttle butterfly linkage. I had to shim it with an o-ring when I installed it because it didn't turn on and off at quite the right position. Basically, all you need is the switch. The threaded hole is ready for it and the connector (tagged and ready) is under the tank. ********************************************************* Anton Largiader, Chester Springs, PA largiaderNoSpam@NoSpamworldlynx.net http://members.aol.com/alargiader/index.html '94 Astral Blue K75 Capitol 1000 preregistered ********************************************************* > Robert Marceau wrote: >'92 K75s...The manual indicates that the bottom left idiot >light on the right cluster indicates that the choke has been left on. >On mine, this doesn't light up, nor is there the symbol for a choke >that the manual shows. Before I start to rip things apart looking >for a burnt out bulb, I was wondering if anyone knows if there was a >change in the function between the time the manual was printed, 1990, >and the model year, 1992. Oh yeah, one relevant thing, the >instrument cluster was changed under warranty due to leaks, don't >know the year. Date: Wed, 10 Dec 1997 07:08:58 -0800 From: KC Rydalch Subject: BMW: '93 windshield update switch For all you K-'93LT owners, you might be interested in updating your switch for the windshield. I got tired of leaning forward to reach the switch that's located on the handlebar pad. I finally ordered the left switch gear that includes the high beam, left turn signal, horn, and windshield height adjustment. I had my favorite mechanic install it for me. He had to replace the original windshield switch that's on the dash with a dummy switch. This way he can splice the original windshield wiring into the new switchgear harness. The switch gear costs $125 and the installation was $86. It seems like a lot of expense for nothing, but I'm glad I did it and would recommend any K11LT '93 owner to do the switch. It is so much more convenient to move the windshield in your normal sitting position and get it right the first time. I have finally found the sweet spot the first time every time. For me it's totally changed the personality of my K11 and I'm back in love with my K. I can now avoid the purchase of my future R11GS for many more years to come and not feel deprived. Kim Rydalch Modesto, CA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 02:50:18 -0500 From: William Safford <73760.3533NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com> Subject: BMW: The early Ks Roozbeh Chubak: > The smoke was not fixable. They said if you park on the > centerstand instead of the sidestand, it would eliminate it; it > did not. They said if you out 10,000 miles on the bike, it will > go away; mine was still there after 35,000 miles. Actually, you're mistaken. I've been told that the smoking can be fixed, if you feel like having significant work done on the engine (or need to have it done anyway). The smoking problem was fixed in the late '80s with new rings (and maybe pistons). They can be retrofitted to older engines. - --Will Safford Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 22:47:10 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger (by way of Don Eilenberger ) Subject: Re: BMW: Motronic fuel injection on early Ks At 08:20 PM 1/5/98 -0800, Glenn Miller wrote: > >Don, > As a new owner of an 85 K100RS, what did you do to cure the vibes? >By the way, it doesn't smoke and vibrates less than my Ninja or CB750F >ever did. > >Glenn Miller Glenn - lots - I'll list them more or less in decending order of effectiveness: 1. Bashed heat shield on muffler so it doesn't pinch between exhaust and left foot peg mount. Result - no (NO!) vibrations noticeable in left foot peg 2. Refitted right side crash bar so it doesn't rub against the fairing.. a few washers under one of the mounts did it. MAJOR reduction in fairing noise and vibration. This one I blame on the dealer since they installed the bars.. 3. Retimed bike to 30 degrees full advance (had been set at 24).. major reduction overall in vibration. See IBMWR tech pages for how-to-do (Lentini method - which I slightly modified - measure ANGLE instead of circumfrence.. you'll understand when you read it). 4. Use premium gas - some better than others - generally best on Sunoco Ultra, OK on Mobil premium.. this can be noticed right away. Later models may be able to use regular gas - the '85 cannot and stay happy. I can frequently feel an immediate difference when changing brands of Premium gasoline. Experiment and find which one your K likes. 5. Went through RT fairing adding rubber where-ever I saw rubbing occuring.. it's pretty obvious where it occurs 'cause the paint between parts is worn, or you'll see shiny spots. Requires disassembly, but basically easy to do. 6. Replaced the O rings on the bar-end weights - these wear out and dry up. Install the weights so the ends don't quite touch the end of the bars (they have to be free to vibrate - which absorbs bar vibes..) Helped a bit - not a major factor. 7. Retorqued all engine mounts - had been done by a butcher (air-wrench prolly) - to spec's shown in book for 1985 - which are done in a diff sequence than later models. We're starting to get to where things are subtle - but still noticeable. Also - check to see if any shims are missing - loosen one mount at a time - if the frame moves away from the engine - you need a shim there. I made several from some thin flat stock. Made some difference at some peak vibration periods - but again, not a MAJOR difference (we are working our way in decending order of effectiveness). 8. Replaced rubber mounts for handlebars - minor effect. 9. Foam grips (not so good if you have heated grips).. minor improvement, if any, but I like the larger grip. 10. Get ridda the stock seat. Like sitting on a cinderblock. Get a Russell made. If you need a seat to borrow while Russell makes your seat - lemme know. I have a loaner (and 1985 is different than other years). 11. Played around with some rubber under the tank.. was able to reduce vibration in the tank where my knees touched it - also added the rubber pads to the sides of the tank - good for vibes plus insulates your knees from the heat from the tank (and it DO get hot in the summer).. And lots of little things.. chase any source of vibration - like anything that CAN vibrate and damp it (I have self-adhesive thin rubber foam tape - about 2" wide - works great for this).. Make certain the BMW upgrades were performed on your bike. At Fontana, I actually saw an '85 K100 which still had the original footpeg mounts.. Plus it prolly helped when I: 1. Rebuilt the intake - replaced all the rubber - (throttles to air-box, throttles to head) - had leaks - causes rough running - causes vibrations. 2. Replaced the rear-main seal, which didn't really NEED it, but the O ring in front of it did - on retorquing the nut on the clutch basket (you first tighten it to XXX FT/LBS, loosen it, then retighten to somewhat less FT/LBS) much of the engine rattle on de-cel (common on K's) went away.. suspect it took up some play in the secondary shaft that had developed from wear. The two above - you can PLAN to do.. your bike is old enough, and both are caused by the aging and drying up of rubber parts.. The results of all this are - it has less vibration in it than later models of the K100 that I've ridden - and about the same or less than the K11.. also - if you still have a remnant of vibes in the bars.. some people have suggested putting lead shot into them - I bought gel palmed gloves (Olympia) - with these on - there is NO vibration reaching my hands AT ALL.. they work great. Also - a FWIW. I added a throttle-lock-screw (standard BMW issue). Before installing the screw I found I got real pain in my right hand and wrist. I suspect the pain was caused by gripping the throttle grip tightly enough to keep it open all the time. Adding the screw, and adjusting it to a neutral adjustment (throttle stays where it is set, but is easily returnable to closed) cured this pain instantly. Have not had any wrist pain or numbness - even after 12 hours of riding. I also like the throttle lock because it helps me ride the bike smoothly. The throttle on a K is very sensitive to on/off transitions. Loaned one ot a fellow club member who has a K100RS - haven't been able to get it back yet! HTH.. ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== "Ultimately most problems can be solved by applying a Large Brick to the Correct Skull. Difficulties arise when you don't have a brick or can't find the the right skull. The Devil is always in the details." PS: Sam, I copied it to you - you just asked for writeups.. I've been asked this about 20 times so far, and never remember to keep it handy. Mebbe if it ends up on the tech-web page I'll remember the URL :-) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 15:41:56 +1000 From: richard_passNoSpam@NoSpamdpa.act.gov.au Subject: Re[2]: BMW: The early Ks engine output shaft (longish) Tom, I was as perplexed by your reply as you obviously were by my post. The problem appears to be almost common knowledge among the beemer community here and yet I've not seen much about it on the list. I checked with both of our local BMW workshops and this is a summary of what they told me. 1. All K100s manufactured for the world market up to May 89 were fitted with 6 rivet output shafts. 2. Not all bikes exhibit the problem. It is often more noticeable in ex police machines (ridden hard I guess). 3. The problem tends to be a nuisance for a long period with a gradual decline. The time to fix it is apparently when the warm up does not eliminate it. Any other info on this would be appreciated. Cheers, Richard Pass 1984 K100RT(ex-police) Canberra, Australia ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: BMW: The early Ks engine output shaft (longish) Author: Tom Coradeschi at AARNET Date: 07/1/98 22:41 Richard Pass: > Apparently, on the early Ks the engine output shaft was rivetted to a > cush drive housing with 6 rivets (I'm told BMW later rectified this by > using a 12 rivet set up). After around 50 - 60,000 klms (YMMV) the > holes would go oval which would cause the bikes to rattle like a chaff > cutter when cold. I've seen one removed from a bike making this noise > and it was really loose. Richard, you've mentioned this before, and befuddled me then, as you're befuddling me now. My "early" K (an '85 RS, built October '84, I believe - correction, March '85) has approx 130,000 km on it (77,000 mi) and exhibits none of what you mention. Nor have any of the other 1985 K100s I'm aware of. My only guesses are: this affects the bikes built VERY early (yours is an '84); you won't get much help here, given the US-centric bent of the list and the fact that the '84 K's weren't available in the US. > The short term work around for me is to give the bike a full pre > flight warm up even in summer (set the choke on first position and > leave until the engine speed stabilises at around 1500 rpm). If I > ride before this the bike vibrates noticeably and because of the air > cooling takes a while to warm up and smooth out. If I give it the > full warm up there isn't much vibration at all (relatively!). Neither of which could have any foreseeable effect on durability that I can see. > I'd like to know: > How long before my engine fails? > Will it gradually get worse or shear off and wreck the motor? > Anyone been through this? Wish I could help more. My answers to the above would read something like: I dunno. I dunno. Nope. :-{ tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 00:19:36 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: RE: BMW: k throttle recall#? Tom adds: >Date: Wed, 7 Jan 98 22:28:21 EST >From: Tom Coradeschi >Subject: Re: BMW: k throttle recall#? > >>Anyone have the recall # to replace the mid-cable adjustable throttle >>cable on older K's. The local dealer is putting me through hoops. > >As far as I know, it was never recalled. Only recalls I'm aware of are: >add'l grounding cable added to throttle-side switch housing; ignition box. > > tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org > Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> Wasn't a "recall", it is an "open service bulletin" - if your dealer can't find it, call BMW-NA and have your VIN number handy. I believe 'service bulletins' are used to avoid the stigma of a NHTS official 'recall'.. And, nope, I don't have the number. Only found out about it after I'd paid for my parts and installed it myself. ======================================= Don Eilenberger Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:00:39 EST From: Tom Coradeschi Subject: Re: BMW: k throttle recall#? Peter Krynicki: >Tom Coradeschi wrote: >> >Anyone have the recall # to replace the mid-cable adjustable throttle >> >cable on older K's. The local dealer is putting me through hoops. >> >> As far as I know, it was never recalled. Only recalls I'm aware of are: >> add'l grounding cable added to throttle-side switch housing; ignition box. > >Wasn't there a recall (or a replace-it-when-it-comes-in) for something >to do with the center stand support for the early K's? A goodwill replacement was done on the centerstands on early K's, yes. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:11:15 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: re: BMW: Re: The early Ks, Vibe Cures, etc. Long At 09:49 AM 1/8/98 -0700, Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov) wrote: >centaurNoSpam@NoSpamsfol.com's keyboard spoke: > >| Don Eilenberger made some comments about the older K bikes. > >| >4. Use premium gas - some better than others - generally best on Sunoco >| Ultra, OK on Mobil premium.. this can be noticed right away. Later models >| may be able to use regular gas - the '85 cannot and stay happy. >| >| I'm surprised by this. I've always run regular cheapo gas in my 85 KRS. It >| always seems to work fine. I know fuels are blended differently for >| different regions. Maybe our New Mexico regular works better than your New >| Jersey stuff? Guess I'll have to try premium and see if I can tell any >| difference. > >Richard, > >You're running yours at 7000+'. Don's down there at about 7'. The >atmospheric pressure at 7000' is about 70% of what it is at sea level, >hence your combustion pressures and temperatures are way down. You >don't need much in the way of octane to prevent detonation. > >Ever notice that the highest octane we can buy here is 91, maybe 92? >We can never even find the 94 that you can buy down low. We just >don't need it, unless we're running a turbocharger to boost the >pressures back up. > >You _might_ find that the increased detergents in premium gas would >help, but you can get the same effect by putting in a little Techron >once in a while. > >One more thing that helps eliminate vibration that I found on a K100 I >worked on one time was a very careful throttle body sync. Not just >using the brass screws, but by using the "don't touch those ever" >screws. Really smoothed out the one I did. Then again, our friends >at you know where had tuned it before I got to it, so I had a great >starting point to look good! Let me know if you want the details. > > - Bryan Bryan, et.al.. One really IMPORTANT caviat.. before adjusting the screws which are never to be touched, make CERTAIN that you're not compensating for something that is broken, ie - leaks like Richard found! A FWIW: I checked the vacuum at the throttle vacuum takeoff ports before replacing the throttle body rubber components (the important ones are the 4 [3 if you've got a K75] rubber mounts between the bodies and the cylinder head). The vacuum balance was WAY off over the entire RPM range of the engine. After replacing the rubber stuff, I preset the brass screws (idle bypass screws) in the 4 throttle bodies to the same position on each. I then connected my manometer and checked the balance. It was DEAD NUTZ ON - both at idle and over the entire RPM range! IF I had 'balanced' the throttles with the screws never to be touched, I would have screwed up a good adjustment trying to fix something which was broken (masking a symptom). You also should carefully check the valve adjustment before thinking about doing a throttle sync.. differences within the BMW spec's can cause different vacuum readings. The valve adjustment (especially the intakes) have gotta be exactly the same across all the cylinders. I've discussed this off-line with Rob Lentini (who wrote up the throttle body sync) and he is in agreement, but somehow this never made it into the FAQ.. (Sam??) Best, Don PS: IF the adjustments have already been "tweeked" as Bryan implies above.. this seems like a GOOD THING to do, but first make sure of no leaks and a good valve adjustment. Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:59:19 -0000 From: Adrian Williamson Subject: BMW: FW: BMW Fuel Injection Hi, Here's some useful information for anyone who needs more speed.... Adrian adrianNoSpam@NoSpamoctavo2.demon.co.uk - ---------- From: Duane Mitchell Sent: 18 January 1998 23:25 To: Adrian Williamson Subject: Re: BMW Fuel Injection Hi there, we have two possible solutions for the K series, depending upon the model. We can supply replacement eproms chips for K100RS - 16 valve , K1RS, K1100RS and LT models at present. We cannot presently do K1200 but should have something soon. So if yours is any of these models we can remap to spec, or in the case of the K100RS and K1100 we have very good chips already developed. For the K100 8 valve and prior models the ECU is not eprommed, so we can't supply chips ! We can use our UltiMap Engine Manager however to remap these. So if you're interested we could supply one of these, but you'd need to do the development tuning yourself as we haven't tested them. In fact, you could fit the Engine manager to any K series and you'd then have total mapping flexibility yourself. - -- With kind regards, Duane Mitchell. http://melbourne.dialix.oz.au/~duanefim/fim.html - ---------- > From: Adrian Williamson > To: 'duanefimNoSpam@NoSpambigpond.com' > Subject: BMW Fuel Injection > Date: Friday, January 16, 1998 8:28 AM > > Hi, > > I noticed that you are intending to inroduce products for the R1100, I don't suppose you would be able to help with a K-series engine ? > > I put a full race system on one and I think it needs the lower / mid rpm remapped. > > Sorry to have bothered you if multi cylinder bikes are not your thing. > > Adrian. > > PS If you can help I'll send you more details. Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 22:10:00 -0400 From: Joe Katz Subject: BMW: K series valve wear To: Pat Roddy Cc: bmwmc Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Joe Katz X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by brooklyn.slack.net id XAA19317 Pat and List: I had one of the earliest K100RS machines (Fg. nr. 1120) and was always impressed by the lack of wear on the valve mechanism. I changed two shims at the 600 mile service and changed the next one, and only one, at 130,000 miles. At that point I changed the cam chain - hoping that the rattle I was hearing came from the chain. The old chain had so little wear on it that I had to tag it to distinguish it from the new chain. The noise, as I hated to admt, came from wear in the anti-backlash gear set. Not only was the tensioner worn but the hub rivets were all loose. I replaced the worn parts and all was well. I rode the bike 'till '94, when I was seduced by the trick front end on the R11RS, at which point the bike had a little over 175,000 miles. My step-son owns the bike now; he doesn't get much time to ride so the total is now 181,000 and the bike sounds and runs as new. Joe Katz, retired wrench, joekatz1NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com DeLand, Florida ----------------------------------------------------- The secret -- lies in knowing what good work is, and being willing to take the pains to do it that way. Lucien Cary X-Sender: deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammail.monmouth.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.5 (32) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 10:54:23 -0500 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpameurope.std.com From: Don Eilenberger Subject: RE: BMW: '85 K100 purchas? Cc: "Nader Saca" Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Don Eilenberger X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Nada asks (he must be new around here!): >Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1998 23:05:42 -0800 >From: "Nader Saca" >Subject: BMW: '85 K100 purchas? > >I need your help! A friend of mine has a '85 K100rs that he wants to sell >me cheep ($(2,500). I was wondering if any presidents could give me some >ideas on what to look for. The bike is not perfect, it has some cosmetic >blem's and a bad rear brake slave cylinder. The motor and transmition are >in good working condition. It has also been in storage for the last 3 years >with 18K miles. You can E-Mail me directly (naderNoSpam@NoSpamjps.net). TIA > >NADER S. SACA Nader - get ye' to the FAQ. Take a wander around the IBMWR web site under the K-tech stuff (start at www.ibmwr.org) As for specifics on an '85, really quick: 1. Exhaust shield - vibrates if not fixed (see faq) 2. Centerstand breaks - should be replaced with new design 3. Vibration - see faq 4. Driveshaft - see faq 5. Instruments crap out - see faq 6. Throttle cable - if mid-cable adjuster it needs replacing (a dealer *should* do this at BMW's expense - there is an open campaign on it..) Also - stock seat sucks - like sitting on a vinyl coated cinderblock.. when you're ready to go the Russell route - email me, I've got a 'loaner' for '85 K owners (yeah - like some other things on the bike - it's 'different'). You can also expect to do some maintanence repairs - mostly on rubber bits (seals, throttlebody intake couplings, etc) - it's gettin old and rubber ages. And go see the various FAQ's This price is "OK" provided you don't get into major repairs.. you can usually find '85 K100RS's around $3k or so.. an RT will go a bit higher, so check it carefully so you don't sink more than $500 into it, or you'll be at a financial disadvantage.. HTH! ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== "Ultimately most problems can be solved by applying a Large Brick to the Correct Skull. Difficulties arise when you don't have a brick or can't find the the right skull. The Devil is always in the details." Comments: ( Received on motgate.mot.com from client pobox.mot.com, sender Diaz_JonNoSpam@NoSpammacmail1.cig.mot.com ) Date: 23 Apr 1998 12:37:17 +0100 From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: Alternator rubbers To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamlists.ibmwr.org X-Mailer: Mail*Link SMTP for Quarterdeck Mail; Version 4.1.0 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Diaz Jon" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Frank asked Brian: >You don't have any play in your alternator drive after 84,000 miles? Frank....I didn't change the alternator rubbers in my K75 until over 120,000 miles. Jon Diaz Date: Tue, 10 Mar 98 23:11:13 EST From: Tom Coradeschi To: Bob Beckett Cc: The Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW: Attention: Owners of high mileage K100 Models, 1985-1991, Potential Safety Issue Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Bob Beckett warns us of his engine output shaft rivets wearing out at 106k miles. Bob, this was discussed on the list in January. At that time, I posted the following and collected the results. Totally unscientific survey, but hey, you get what you pay for! The question: So, if you own a K100, built before June 1989 (arbitrary date), please provide, via private email to , the following info: 1) Model & model year 2) Month & year of manufacture (on the tag on the left side rear frame rail) 3) Mileage 4) Engine output shaft problems experienced and mileage it occurred at >and quickly eating their way through the canister. I believe that I was a >short distance from total failure of this part and that the failure has >potential to make things really entertaining for the rider and any passenger >at the time of failure. Full drivetrain lockup would be my guess, probably >at speed when load is highest. Nope. The bike simply won't go. >Second, if you discover this condition on your bike, let me know. I've >filed a complaint with the folks at NHTSA and they have opened a case. Let me get this straight. You expect NHTSA to do something about a problem involving a 13 year old bike with 106,000 miles on it. Given that they did NOTHING about the much more common tranny input shaft spline and driveshaft spline problems, my only comment is: Good luck! Anyhow, on to the "survey" results - we had 26 respondents covering 27 bikes: Problems: 3 respondents (one w/ 2 bikes) The failures were: o started to rattle at 70.000 km and I changed the damper at 94.000km. All six rivets had play. The second bike started to rattle at 64.000 km and I sold it shortly after that o failed at 81300 miles o failed at 22000 mi No problems: 23 respondents Their info: o 3) Mileage - 92000 miles - now gone o 3) Mileage 104,000 miles o 3. 77,000 miles (gimme a break, I bought it used 5 years ago with only 6000 miles on it) o Hi Tom. My K100 now has 203,000 miles. Around 180,000 I noticed the rattle when the engine is cold. o 3. 115,000kms o 3) Mileage 80,000 Km's o by the time I traded it in August '95 with 110K miles on it, I never had experienced any engine output shaft problems. o 3) Mileage 45086mi o 3) Mileage 6500 o 3) Mileage 51,000, then traded it in. o Mileage: 93,100 (all by me) o 3. Mileage is now 190,000 miles. o 3) Mileage 62600 o 3) 48,015 miles o 3. 103,000 miles o 3) Mileage 38,450.0 o I have a 1987 (model year) K100RT, 37,800 miles. o 3) Mileage 54,500m o Mileage 88000 (approx) o 3) 43,000 miles o Mileage: 100,000 miles o 3) Mileage 59,680 o 3) 78k miles. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> From: "Bob Beckett" To: Cc: "Bob Beckett" Subject: BMW: Attention: Owners of high mileage K100 Models, 1985-1991, Potential Safety Issue Date: Tue, 10 Mar 1998 17:04:19 -0800 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.71.1712.3 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.71.1712.3 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Bob Beckett" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). I am the original owner of a well maintained 1985 K100RT. I have had my share of broken or worn out parts, but the repairs have always been understandable and reasonable considering mileage and my riding style. I have, however, recently run into a required repair which I consider to be neither understandable nor reasonable. I am writing this message to you to alert you to the potential for the same repair on your bike. My bike had 106,000 miles last fall when I broke the intake cam (I consider this failure, in itself, to be reasonable). I decided, considering the mileage, that it was time for a general freshening up and upgrading of my bike since it was going to the shop for the repair anyway. New cams, head work, injectors, rings, and lower end bearings were included in my "freshening" project as well as transmission, rotors, and upgraded forks. During this process, the dealer tech discovered a failure in the engine's drive mechanism which I don't find to be either reasonable nor understandable. The affected part is described in the BMW parts manual as a "gear wheel". This part consists of a relatively large diameter aluminum canister with a drive gear attached to one end. The drive gear is secured to the can via Qty. (6) steel rivets. On my bike, the rivets were all loose and quickly eating their way through the canister. I believe that I was a short distance from total failure of this part and that the failure has potential to make things really entertaining for the rider and any passenger at the time of failure. Full drivetrain lockup would be my guess, probably at speed when load is highest. I am usually pretty reasonable about this kind of thing. I understand that mechanical things break. What I don't understand is a manufacturer, with full knowledge of a design weakness, particularly one that has safety implications like this one, who doesn't warn their customer's about the problem and at least advise an inspection. Does BMW know about the gear wheel problem, you bet. The original part # 1121146093 has been substituted to an improved part (#11211461499). You have to buy some other pieces to go with the new part, but the new one has Qty. (12) steel rivets, otherwise, looks the same. Now, I'm soon to be about $1100 lighter to get this replaced. I can afford it, no problem. But I asked for some relief from the BMW folks anyway, because I don't consider this a "normal" maintenance item and because it is so clearly a design weakness. I got the expected answer and, yes, the response has me feeling a little frustrated. So, I'm sending this to encourage you, first of all, to inspect your bike for this problem (I'll help you with this at the end of this message). This is particularly important if your mileage is greater than 60K-70K. It's a safety issue! I have seen at least two other K100s with the same symptoms (78K and 95K). Second, if you discover this condition on your bike, let me know. I've filed a complaint with the folks at NHTSA and they have opened a case. I will forward information on your failures to them. If you'd rather go directly to the Feds, you can file a complaint on the internet at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. Symptoms: Unexplained mechanical cluttering noise from rear of engine. A little too much play in the drivetrain. Inspection: Remove crank cover. Locate crankshaft gear on left hand side. The gear wheel mates with the crank gear towards the bottom of the engine and towards the center of the engine. You can see the aluminum can and the rivets using a flashlight and mirror. Inspect for damage to the aluminum can around the rivets. Mine was grossly malformed, easy to see. Warning: Following this recommendation may lead to some loss of confidence in your machine and may result in an increase in frustration with the manufacturer. Bob Beckett 1985 K100RT 106K miles, currently undergoing significant refresh. Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 23:23:42 -0400 From: Joe Katz Subject: BMW: BMW K-series valve cover leak To: Dave Cc: bmwmc Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Joe Katz X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by brooklyn.slack.net id AAA00266 Dave and List: The valve cover on a K bike is not magic - there is a rubber-like gasket in there and it dries out in time and need be replaced. The bolts that affix the cover are M6, a standard metric. They are designed to "bottom" on a collar - providing a set amount of squeeze through the rubber washers on the bolts. The rubber washer also dries out and no longer provide the required squeeze. Helicoils and Time-Serts are available in M6. Torque M6 bolts to no more than 7 Nm. Joe Katz, retired wrench, joekatz1NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com DeLand, Florida ----------------------------------------------------- The secret -- lies in knowing what good work is, and being willing to take the pains to do it that way. Lucien Cary X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "IBMWR" Subject: BMW: Fw: K Tech - Stalling Date: Sat, 28 Mar 1998 11:47:05 -0700 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). -----Original Message----- From: Rob Lentini Date: Saturday, March 28, 1998 11:39 AM > >Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:19:16 -0700 >From: Joe Monenschein >Subject: BMW: K Tech - Stalling > >This morning was the third occurrence of my K100 stalling within the first >ten minutes of running. It only happens on nice mornings (> 55F). It >*seems* to be caused by my turning down the fast idle too soon. The engine >just stops dead. Is there anything (other than leaving on the fast idle) >that I can do to avoid this? Why doesn't it happen when it's 20 degrees >out? How does the idle speed have an affect when I'm moving? Idle speed will NOT have an affect when moving. Things to check: 1. Idle speed should not be less than the 950 rpm spec. I like it a little higher. 2. Fuel/air mixture at idle might be a little rich, and if it is, it would benefit cold starting and perhaps hamper normal idle. Have this checked for 2 - 2.5% at idle when fully warmed up. There's an air bypass screw adjustment on the top of the airbox to adjust this (under a rubber cover). 3. Your coolant temperature sensor could be bad (rare). Hope this helps, Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ 94 R1100RS (H) 520-790-8865 (B) 520-295-6411 MSF Instructor Oilhead and K Tech Three Flags Classic #210 Director, BMWMOA Date: Mon, 13 Apr 98 15:17:37 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi To: David Wood , The Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW: K-100 Valve Cover Leak Organization: Skylands BMW Riders Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Tom Coradeschi X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). David Wood: >Seems I've got a leak in the lower rear corner of my valve cover. It's enough to >mist oil my boots when I'm on a ride. -- > >1) Is this a common problem ? Seems by it's location it might be. >2) Anyone have thoughts on a solution ? Yes! First, get your dealer to order up a fresh set of the rubber washers which sit under the valve cover bolts. The old ones dry out and compress over time. Also get a new rubber gasket (there are two of them, actually, as you will see when you remove the valve cover: a large one which seals the perimeter of the cover and a smaller one which seals the opening where the spark plugs fit). Remove the valve cover and replace all the rubber washers. Clean the cylinder head mating surface COMPLETELY! A small drop of oil on the mating surface WILL allow oil to seep. It helps if you use a paper towel or whatever to soak up some of the oil which seems to sit in the cylinder head right at the mating surface. Re-install the cylinder head and torque to about 5 ft-lb - if you feel the need to actually torque them - I just tighten them up until they're snug. That should solve the problem. As an Added Bonus(tm) you can put a dab of an ACID-FREE (if it smells like vinegar, it has acetic acid in it: don't use it!) RTV on the seams where the front cover mates to the cylinder head. BMW Drei Bond/Yamabond4/Three Bond (3 names for the same stuff) is a good choice. >I'm some what concerned that cranking down on the valve cover bolt might strip >out the treads - that steel bolts and aluminum head thing. You're correct in not wanting to do this. If you remove the bolts, you'll see that they have a shoulder on them, to prevent you from crushing the valve cover by over-tightening. tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org Skylands (NJ) BMW Riders <+> Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 08:40:30 -0700 From: "Eric vandenhoek" Organization: Colorado Springs Utilities X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I) To: WDKnudsonNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com, IBMWR Subject: Re: BMW: K-tech: She coughs and sputers or Stump the dealer! Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Eric vandenhoek" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Had the same thing.. Ok, big picture trouble spots..cheapest first... 1. Drain gas from tank completly. Change fuel filter. Test 2. Clean area then pull injectors, inspect for rust. REPLACE rubber o-rings, clean contacts, spit on oring, replace injector. 3. Drive for a bit, get bike warm. Find a safe spot to pull over, hit the kill switch at running speed, pull over, pull plugs. Inspect for a "wet" plug. If so, check resistance on plug wire-should be ~ 5k. Could also be a coil or bad plug. 4. With fire suppressent device in hand, warm bike up. Spray flamable choke cleaner around t-bodies & injectors, listening for rpm change. Air leak will imbalace air/gas mixture.... Start there, let me know if it's fixed. Note: Do one thing at a time, then test. you stated..... My 91 K100RS suffers from a mysterious problem. The dealer doesn't even acknowledge a problem. The symptom is that the motor hesitates on acceleration. The hesitation = is more of a cough and sputer than 'bucking'. The problem does not manifest= itself until the temp gauge is is out of the blue. In other words, it ru= ns good when cold. It is not a perfectly repeatable flaw. But 20 minutes o= f highway riding you'll notice it. It is noticable enough to scare the pan= ts off of you whilst leaning and accelerating in a turn. It seems to happen while accelerating (starting) from the 3800 to 4300 range to higher r's. A quarter inch turn of the wrist might be met with = no throttle response for a second or two. It does not cut out at higher r's= =2E I havn't pulled plugs yet (dealer says they're fine). Any ideas? - -Bill -- Eric VanDenHoek '85 K100RS BMW http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/4488/ MSF Instructor / MOA# 74038 / RC Pilot / PPBMWR Newsletter Editor evandenhoekNoSpam@NoSpamcsu.org / captainhoekNoSpam@NoSpamgeocities.com Colorado Springs Utilities - Electric ITT Learning from the difficulties of life is the key to living. Me To: WDKnudsonNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 22:50:03 -0600 Subject: Re: BMW: K-tech: She coughs and sputers or Stump the dealer! X-Mailer: Juno 1.49 From: douholmesNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Douglas W Holmes) Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: douholmesNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (Douglas W Holmes) X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Bill writes: >The symptom is that the motor hesitates on acceleration. The hesitation = >is >more of a cough and sputer than 'bucking'. The problem does not manifest= >itself until the temp gauge is is out of the blue. In other words, it ru= >ns >good when cold. It is not a perfectly repeatable flaw. But 20 minutes o= >f >highway riding you'll notice it. It is noticable enough to scare the pan= >ts >off of you whilst leaning and accelerating in a turn. As others have mentioned, check the fuel filter first thing. Also water in the gas tank or some other contamination. Don Eilenberger mentioned checking wiring connections. I had a similar problem with my '91RS 16V about 3-4 years ago. It was pretty bad, because I would not know when it would happen. I happened during turns, it happened running straight, and was scary. I had the bike to the dealer a couple of times, and they could not find the cause. I think they thought I was crazy. I actually found the problem myself just by chance. While the bike was idling I turned the handlebars to the right, and lo and behold the problem occurred. Looking it over I noticed that the cable that plugs into the back of the instrument cluster was pulled tight. Wiggling the cable with the engine running, caused the bike to misfire. Checking further I found the allen bolt that holds the cable in place was loose, allowing the plug to move around. Removed the plug, hit it and the receptacle with contact cleaner, plugged it back in, tightened it down, and have not had a similar problem since. It might have been a once in a million thing, but it is easy to check. Maybe some of the more knowledgeable Prezzes out there would know how or why the circuits to the instruments would cause that? Doug Holmes Minneapolis, MN 91 K100RS 16V _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] X-Sender: bmwbrianNoSpam@NoSpampopmail.voicenet.com X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Pro Version 3.0.1 (16) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 1998 11:30:23 To: "William D. Knudson" , BMWMC From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: K-tech: She coughs and sputers or Stump the dealer! Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Brian Curry X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). At 11:52 PM 3/18/98 -0500, William D. Knudson wrote: > >My 91 K100RS suffers from a mysterious problem. The dealer doesn't even >acknowledge a problem. > >The symptom is that the motor hesitates on acceleration. The hesitation is >more of a cough and sputer than 'bucking'. The problem does not manifest >itself until the temp gauge is is out of the blue. In other words, it runs >good when cold. It is not a perfectly repeatable flaw. But 20 minutes of >highway riding you'll notice it. It is noticable enough to scare the pants >off of you whilst leaning and accelerating in a turn. > >It seems to happen while accelerating (starting) from the 3800 to 4300 >range to higher r's. A quarter inch turn of the wrist might be met with no >throttle response for a second or two. It does not cut out at higher r's. > >I havn't pulled plugs yet (dealer says they're fine). Any ideas? What springs to mind is: Check the timing. Set it per Lentini. The dealer will not know of how in the first place to do it per the IBMWR page, and not like to do it that way, and even less like to put a little advance into it. He might not have the tooling for the BMW method, and it has problems in used engines. I found this made a SIGNIFICANT difference on my new to me K75. The other thing is to check the valve clearances. The dealer can do this without getting the whillies. The only thing left is the mixture. You could check the FI temp sensor for that. At that rev range, you are just getting out of the AFM range and into the Guess and by Golly range of the FI system. It could be a bad transition. Oh, and also check the TPS. The TPS has to tell the FI when the throttle is WFO for proper operation too. Do a loose intake system check. Spray/spritz some lighter fluid / Charcoal starter / WD-40 / kerosene around each of the throttle body joints and intake manifold joint and rubber hoses, and make sure you don't have a leak. (Do at idle. A change in engine speed says you have a leak, and the addtional fuel is changing the engine speed.)