From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 26 22:14:07 1997 From: "Drew Grant" To: wpowersNoSpam@NoSpamhalcyon.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Fri, 27 Jun 1997 02:47:47 +0000 Subject: Re: BMW: 2 part Question: 60/2 Charging System Reply-To: "Drew Grant" William wrote on 25 Jun 97 : > > After investigating the circuit, and with help from the archive article on > the buzzing voltage regulator, I guess I cannot expect much performance > from my R69S 6 volt, generator charging system. > Anyone with the same type of problem. > Questions for the Group: > 1. Anyone have any experience with improving the preformance of the > Charging system? i.e. Cleaning, Brush/Contact replacement. > > 2. Has there been any success stories for alternate solid state circuit > replacement of the regulator. > Hi Will In the late 1970's I fitted a JG control unit to my R50/2, easy to fit and effective. It allows you to pull 12 volts from the 6 volt dynamo and since it controls the current in the field coil there is no worry of overheating. You can pull almost double the quoted watts from the dynamo since it puts out the same number of amperes at 12 volts as at 6 and watts are volts X amps. I've put over 50k miles onto it without trouble. I believe that Eurospares handles these units for the States. Once you fit the unit you have to change the battery and bulbs for 12 volt but the horn will still work O.K. Regards Drew Grant Washington Co.Durham U.K. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 06:29:04 1997 Date: Thu, 3 Jul 97 06:04 EDT To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Tom Barnhart Subject: BMW: Fuel+, tireAlert Reply-To: Tom Barnhart I did get the Fuel+ installed successfully. Considering how I've done in things mechanical before, I consider that an accomplishment. I did take more off the bike than necessary, but I also found some other things that needed a little attention. I tried to install the tireAlert on my '88 K100LT. It doesn't install, due to different rims and lack of rear mounting location. Oh well. In re-installing the speedo after putting in the Fuel+, I cleaned the contacts (done earlier at the dealer) and then treated them with Stabilant 22A. It is identified as a contact enhancer, used in difficult situations (automotive ABS wheel applications). This is the first time I've had the speedometer work all of the time. The dealer's treatment resulted in maybe one failure, usually at the start of a ride. I've had *no* problems with it since using the Stabilant 22A. It is expensive. Tom Barnhart '88 K100LT Traverse City, MI From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 3 15:15:02 1997 From: KALICHMAN_PAULNoSpam@NoSpamtandem.com Date: 3 Jul 97 11:04:00 -0700 To: martinjNoSpam@NoSpammscd.edu Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: RE: BMW: Have I Got a Problem? Reply-To: KALICHMAN_PAULNoSpam@NoSpamtandem.com >>With a new, fully charged battery I do >>not have enough power to turn the starter over after 45 minutes of sitting >>in stop and go traffic with the lights on. >>A fully charged battery should run that low >>after 45 minutes. >It should? With a car, I could leave the lights on without the engine even >running and be able to turn the engine over hours later. Most car batteries have amperage ratings of 50 to 80 amps. A R100 battery is 24 or 28. There is no point in comparing apples to oranges. >>But, are you doing that 45 minutes of stop-and-go almost >>everytime you ride? The headlight and tailight are 60 watts, alternator and ignition 60 watts. Since there is virtually no recharging at idle, the total load is at least 12 amps not including accessories and lights. I would guesstimate that the batteries charge should last at least 2 hours with this draw. But I cannot guess at which point you will be unable to turn over the starter, as the starter will require a much larger current. >No. I had just taken the bike off the "intelligent" charger, where I leave >it when not riding, and was headed out for a 230 mile ride. An accident >scene had us backed up and creeping along in the hot sun for the 45 >minutes. Like a dummy I stalled the bike and then had to bump it to get >her going. Have you assumed the battery is fully charged, or have you verified with a hydrometer and voltmeter? >Someone else suggests a possible short to ground. Maybe in the lighting >circuit? I can start the engine repeatedly without intervening charging, >unless I am also running the lights. But, I was thinking a direct short >would make itself known by blowing a fuse. Shorts blow fuses or fry wires. I would start with the basics before chasing ghosts. Digital voltmeter, clean and check battery cables, grounds, alternator and diode board wiring. Check alternator charging rate at 4000 rpm. paulk pickering, ont From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Jul 5 10:39:36 1997 Date: Sat, 5 Jul 1997 07:24:09 -0700 (PDT) From: William Schaefer Subject: Re: BMW: K75 Ignition problem ES To: antje schell Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: William Schaefer Sounds familiar. I went through months of such uncertainty. It is wonderful for concentrating the mind on such things as the wiring diagram. Great reading! I would first look at all the electrical connectors. In my case, the procedure that started my "new life" (that is, not being worried about mysterious shutdowns) was working over the plug at the end of the wires coming out of the fuel pump. Apparently the slip-together connectors can lose their ability to keep good electrical contact. It came to a head as I was at the end of my rope. Bought a new fuel pump at the recommendation of my dealer. He installed it on the tank but nothing happened when I put the tank back on the bike. Wheels turned in my head, and I worked over the only electrical connector I hadn't previously paid attention to. Everything's perfect since that moment. "Working over" means cleaning, scraping, silicone paste, and poking around the female part of the connectors to make them put more pressure on the pins. I don't fully understand it. because my reading of the wiring diagram doesn't show how the spark should be affected by a failure in the fuel pump electricals. And, once the k75 was purring reliably I lost my curiosity. I don't feel the need to disconnect the fuel pump and check for spark. I probably should, but what if the spark showed strong. Then I would have to confront the possibility that there is something else lurking inside the machine, just waiting to plague me again. Ignorance is bliss. Good luck. Bill Schaefer '87 K75 Boulder, CO On Fri, 4 Jul 1997, Antje Schell wrote: > > Hi, > My RT sometimes starts sometimes not.(cold or hot) > Fuel Ok. > When it does not start there is no spark. > It cut out while driving, once.(it restarted after a while) > Spark plugs are new. > Is the trigger unit cutting out or is it more likely the Ign. unit???? > Any suggestion, help appreciated. > > Ride safe, Eckhard > Thanks "aa" but it is ignition related. > From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 6 11:00:35 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , "oilhead" , "ibmwr" Subject: BMW: re: Help-Gear Indicator Display Question Date: Sun, 6 Jul 1997 07:43:54 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Sam comments: ==== Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 23:59:54 -0700 From: Sam Sarmast Subject: Re: BMW: Help-Gear Indicator Display Question Wilson Resources, Inc. wrote: > > Can anyone help with a part number or possible diagnostic? > > The gear indicator display on the RID (Rider Info Display) shows either > "1" or "0" regardless what gear the transmission is in. For example, in > 5th gear, the indicator display shows "1". I have a 1996 model R1100 > and the repair/replacement will be covered by warranty. I am trying to > do some diagnostic work myself to save some time. The dealer service > department is swamped and I am wanting to start on a 5,000 ride next > week. I have a k100RT and that after washing it, it did exactly as you describe for a period of almost two weeks. It soon dried out that it started working correctly again. I would kinda doubt you would have the same problem since I would think the R11RT would have an instrument cluster that could handle getting wet.. SamS ==== I had this very same problem years ago on my K 75 S. Turned out it was the connector between the position sensor on the trans and the main wiring harness. It was filled with goop from lots of washings. After cleaning and lubing with WD40 the problem went away. On an R 1100 this connector is located above the trans on the left side of the bike, under the paneling. regards, Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 10 10:36:27 1997 From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com To: "paul m. kay" , "bmw r1100rt list (e-mail)" , "bmw motorcycle email (e-mail)" Date: Thu, 10 Jul 1997 07:11:10 MDT Subject: Re: BMW: Trickle charger for the R1100RT Reply-To: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Addressed to: "Paul M. Kay" "bmw r1100rt list (e-mail)" "bmw motorcycle email (e-mail)" ** Reply to note from "Paul M. Kay" Wed, 9 Jul 1997 20:20:25 -0400 > Does anyone know of a good aftermarket trickle charger that will go into the accessory plug. It is a simple matter to fit a BMW (or John Deere)accessory plug to any charger whose charge rate appropriate for the battery. Just be sure that the positive lead from the charger goes to the center post of the accessory plug. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "Be cautious in the use of stupidity, a little goes a long way." From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 13 18:40:30 1997 Date: Sun, 13 Jul 97 18:25 EDT To: michael & cindy jones From: Tom Barnhart Subject: Re: BMW: K100RT Speedometer and Windscreen Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Tom Barnhart I've had problems with the speedo on my '88 K100LT. I had the dealer check it out this spring. All mods made. Contacts cleaned. Only had to rap the thing once per start-up to keep it going. Looking for something to serve as a contact enhancer, I visited a local auto parts store. They recommended something called "Stabilant 22A" as a contact enhancer which is supposedly used on ABS system connections and should survive harsh conditions. Expensive (abt $47 here, for 15ml), but it seems to work. I removed the speedo to install a Fuel+, sprayed the contacts, and put a *very* small amount of this stuff on the contacts when I put it back together. No problems since. First time my speedometer has registered every ride without being beaten. As usual, I have no interest in, nor knowledge of, for that matter, the company making this product. So far, it's been good to me. YMMV Tom Barnhart KB8OYX '88 K100LT Traverse City, MI From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 13 19:29:54 1997 Date: Sun, 13 Jul 1997 19:44:06 To: michael & cindy jones From: Dave Thompson Subject: Re: BMW: K100RT Speedometer and Windscreen Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Dave Thompson At 12:40 AM 7/13/97 -0400, "Doc" Jones wrote: > >Two weeks ago, I purchased an 85 K100RT and promptly became an IBMWR >member. I have found this list to be both informative and humourous, keep >up the good work. > >I have a slight problem with the motorcycle which the dealer is currently >working on, the speedometer doesn't do what it was designed to do. When I >first rode away, the speedometer registered correctly. Within 8-10 kms it >started surging, reading quite low then back to what I figured my current >speed was. The performance rapidly deteriorated from there! > "Doc"... The Speedometer pick-up on the rear Wheel mount sometimes gets dirty, and causes symtoms much as you describe. It is located about 2" behind the rear shock lower mount, and about 2" below the rear end vent cap. Remove the Allen-headed retaining bolt, and carefully remove the sending unit, by pulling it straight out. Clean the contacts with a clean cloth, and put it all back together. This may cure your problem. It worked for me earlier this year, when I experienced the same symtoms. Cheers, Dave T. '85 K100 (But I don't whine!) ***From Beautiful Berwick, Nova Scotia*** GOB #14 *** The Apple Capital of the World *** Boys will be boys - And so will a lot of grown men....Kin Hubbard "So many idiots, so few comets!" Do it right - Do it once... From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 15 17:10:33 1997 From: Clarence Dold Subject: Re: BMW: K75 Speedo To: dlquickNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 13:19:53 -0700 (PDT) Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com (BMW Mailing List) Reply-To: Clarence Dold Ralph Couey ( LLUS87ANoSpam@NoSpamprodigy.com) asks: >Can somebody out there tell me how to fix an intermittent electronic >speedo? I.E. where is the cable/wire connection I must have jarred Daniel Quick replies: > 1. Small connector under RH side panel in line running from speedo sensor > forwards. > In your case it may well be the speedo head, but it's worth checking these > first as they're a lot easier to get to! The connector under the right side panel was my problem. Sensible in retrospect due to alternator R&R that was done just prior to the speedo going flaky. The connector has no latch, it just pushes together, and is tie-wrapped to the back side of the downtube, so it is difficult to find initially. Trace the wire from the speedo sender atop the rear drive, up the back side of the downtube. I can't see cleaning the speedo sender itself as being a valid fix, unless pulling it out wiggles the above-mentioned connector ;-) It does open a hole directly into the rear end, so clean a little before you pull it loose, unless you want dirt in the gear oil. And of course, Dan's other point is especially important. Faced with a five minute job of locating the side panel connector, verses an hour or two of dismantling the front end to get at the speedo cluster, the rear connector _must_ be checked first. Check the easy stuff first, even if it isn't the most likely. -- --- Clarence A Dold - doldNoSpam@NoSpamnetwork.rahul.net - Pope Valley & Napa CA. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 16 10:57:32 1997 Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 07:43:29 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. To: Pat Roddy Cc: BMW List Subject: Re: BMW: I am a fugitive....maybe! Reply-To: Mark Gensman Pat Roddy wrote: > > While tooling down an unnamed freeway in an unnamed county today, I was in > the inside lane of a freeway four lanes wide. =======SNIP===== > I have always eschewed radar detectors because of all the thousands of > false alarms you receive in and around a city. The two times I tried them, > I wore out a set of brakes on false alarms before EVER seeing a radar trap. > And, ever since the Olympics, with cameras mounted all over creation along > the freeways (looking for terrorists), it is widely known that on some of > those same poles are devices which emit radar signals that cause your > detectors to go nuts. > ------more SNIP---- > pr > > pr > Buford, GA. USA > 93K1100LT--long Banzai runs > 95 R100GS--goes wherever you point it :-) Pat. Get a Valentine V-1 and run it on full logic mode. It sorts the signals and decides which are important enough to sound the alert. I have ridden through many towns with their radar door openers and I get very few false alarms. Every other detector I've owned goes bug snot crazy in town. Not the V-1. I figured that on my trip last week it saved me not less than $1,000 in tickets. I was blowing past a couple of hot shoe Harley guys going up a hill towards Lake Tahoe at about 90 when I got the blap. I locked up the ABS and they went roaring by laughing. The Nevada State trooper at the top of the hill had them on the side of the road as I motored by at 50. Laughing... -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 07:45:57 1997 Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 05:36:32 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Organization: PC Solutions, Inc. To: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net> Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Valentine Research Reply-To: Steve Aikens Mark Etheridge wrote: > Snips Everywhere.................. > > Pat Roddy wrote: > > > > > > While tooling down an unnamed freeway in an unnamed county today, I was in > > > the inside lane of a freeway four lanes wide. =======SNIP===== > > > > Pat. Get a Valentine V-1 and run it on full logic mode. > > OK Mark, I have three warnings in four weeks, I give up ;-) > Where do I get one? You can only order directly from Valentine Research. Order line is 800-331-3030, in Ohio. No www site. They start at $329 and go up to $399. Concealed Display is $69. Remote audio adapter is $49. You can save a couple bucks if they have a re-furb in. Same everything as new, just re-furb'd. -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 10:59:59 1997 Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 07:54:29 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. To: Mark Etheridge <2thermoNoSpam@NoSpamconcentric.net> Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Re:I am a fugitive...maybe Reply-To: Mark Gensman > OK Mark, I have three warnings in four weeks, I give up ;-) > Where do I get one? I got the 800 number out of a Car and Driver mag at a store. Order two power supply units and the remote unit if you want to use a helmet speaker. I have a Radio Shack pillow speaker (3.95) I use that I soldered a stronger wire into. I velcro'd it into my helmet. I use the other power supply in my car. I velcro mount the unit to the bike and to the car so it pops off easily. Be prepared to spend $475. Be prepared to save thousands... From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 17 12:06:30 1997 Date: Thu, 17 Jul 1997 11:45:39 -0400 From: Angelo Gravagna To: Internet BMW Riders List Subject: RE: BMW: K1100LT sporadic no start problem Reply-To: Angelo Gravagna Kim, I had the same problem with my '93 KLT. All kinds of weird electrical problems occur with no specific pattern. The problem is a dirty starter commutator which provides a ground connection for the electrical system. This is to direct electrical power to the starter for starting the bike, i.e turns off power to headlights, etc.. The fix is easy but a lot of work to get at and takes about 2-3 hours. The starter is located on the left side of the bike behind the coils. You need to remove the starter and clean the commutator. Mark the case for alignment during assembly. Be careful taking the starter apart. Don't lose the spacer. On assembly, be careful to not damage the brushes. Clymer's has a good description. Hope this help's. ******************************************************* Anglo Gravagna Glenwood, MD BMWRA #1538 BMWMOA #7053 BMWBMW #175 '93 K1100LT '83 R100RT Anniversary Model '67 R50/2 '64 R90/2 with Ural Sidecar '80 Vespa P200E with California Sidecar (Why? I don't know!) "What you freely assert, I freely deny. Sustain your case. How do you know that? What is your evidence?" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jul 22 07:40:49 1997 Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 07:22:02 -0400 To: bmw-r1100NoSpam@NoSpamcinnamon.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, genbNoSpam@NoSpampop.erols.com From: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) Subject: BMW: Switches / Genetics / Dali Meeow Reply-To: daliNoSpam@NoSpamnetrox.net (Dali Meeow) >I have a '97 RS and the bracket which holds the sidestand switch protects >the switch with a welded steel guard below it. I'm not sure it this is >different than the earlier ones but it sounds like it may be. The downside >to this is that it grinds hard enough to kick the bike off line if the bike >is leaned over quickly enough in a left turn. Is this armored bracket the >recall you are writing about? -Mike I have a '96 R11RS and the older bracket is thin and is flat with no metal below the switch. I hit something with the bracket and buggered the switch about 6 to 8 months ago. I promptly bought another bracket (although I could have straightened the old one, wanted to keep "The Redhead" pristine) and bought a new switch. Maybe the switch wouldn't have broken with the new bracket. I've seen the new one and it is hefty, has a steel piece below the switch and a foam piece between the bracket and bottom of the switch. I wrote BMW NA about the problem last month. My dealer called today to say that the BMW NA rep would be in the area in the next ten days and wants to see my bike about that and the other issues I have. I definitely will post the results. Stephen and the Royal Feline Fur Ball Production Company ... the notorious From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 06:41:11 1997 From: beemerriderNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com To: oilhdbobNoSpam@NoSpamerols.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 06:15:59 -0400 Subject: BMW: Re: Spittin, Sputturin, Airhead X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-17 Reply-To: beemerriderNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com Bob ryan writes: > >Hello List, > >I need your help!! My 1988 R100RST is acting up. The bike cuts out, >like >you hit the kill switch and then picks right back up. Replace the ignition switch. This happened on my '86 R65 and I've heard of several others since. As the monolever airheads age, this is becoming more and more common. It comes on so gradually and intermittently that it's hard to believe, at first. Chris Stoddard Bloomfield Hills, Michigan From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 15:56:19 1997 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 14:26:32 -0500 From: "Chuck (Jack) Hawley" Organization: University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign To: Frank Ferguson Cc: "'bmwmc'" Subject: Re: BMW: No Low Beam X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: "Chuck (Jack) Hawley" Frank Ferguson wrote: > Here's a technical question for you. I've got a 94 K75 (basic one, no > BMW > fairing) that has no low beam. > It's not the bulb. The switch seems to work. If I take a pair of > needle > nose and use it to straddle what I take to be the (+) power in solder > point > (green wire attached) and the solder point next to it, the high beam > comes > on. If I then straddle the green solder point and the solder point to > the > right of the high beam lead, I get nothing. This suggests to me that > the > switch isn't the problem. I can't get a low beam by bypassing the > switch > (assuming I've done it right). I do get a high beam, by the way. > Turning, > now, to the headlight bulb connector, there are three "prongs" which I > > assume are low, common and high respectively. I assume that low is on > > continuously, and what is a normal high beam consists of both the low > and > high filaments burning simultaneously. What surprises me is that I > get > continuity between the solder nodes on the switch and the two "side" > prongs > of the headlight connector, but no continuity between the center prong > and > any point I can find either on the switch or on the frame of the > bike. If > the prong is ground, that would suggest that the headlight couldn't > work at > all. Any advice? > > Francis Ferguson The center prong is low beam (yellow wire on the bike), the ground is on the right while looking at the base with the center pin at the bottom and the bulb facing away from you. The high beam (white wire) is on the left. Your test is correct as far as it goes. Trace the continuity of the yellow wire from the bulb to the switch. It is the normal position for the switch, the other two, up and down, being the high beam (one of them momentary). -- Charles (Jack) Hawley Jr. Amateur Radio: Chuck, KE9UW BMW Motorcycles: AKA "Jack", BMWMOA #224 K100RS Viki, BMWMOA #18120 K100RS President, IBMWR c-hawleyNoSpam@NoSpamuiuc.edu Sr. Research Engineer Emeritus University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 17:33:24 1997 From: cholkoNoSpam@NoSpammindspring.com (Christopher Holko) To: kenneth=20i=20gluckman%ccmail#%forwarderNoSpam@NoSpamchrysler.geis.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Cruiser Anomaly Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 21:12:45 GMT Reply-To: cholkoNoSpam@NoSpammindspring.com (Christopher Holko) On Wed, 23 Jul 97 15:59:00 GMT , you wrote: > But they seem to have made no attempt to deal with the "serious = safety > problem" of driving off with the sidestand down. The sidestand = doesn't > look like it would retract when the bike is moving (but I didn't = test > this). Put it in gear, it will kill the engine if the stand is down. Safety is not compromised. > I really liked the cruiser, however. A great bike for local rides. = I'm > wondering when the touring version of the cruiser (like the = Valkyrie > tourer and the Harley dressers) will come out... I would like to see matching painted bags... but I'm afraid the price = will knock me out... (seeing that the estimate is 700 for the hard leather ones... I really really hope my dealer is wrong here....) I may opt for real H/D bags utilizing the BMW bag rack Chris Holko no more... R1100RTL ;( (waiting on R1200C arrival) Out of my way, out of my day From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 19:39:11 1997 From: DSS38NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 19:25:06 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW:no low beam Reply-To: DSS38NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com On my '91 r100gs, had both high and low on together, and could not get either high or low beam alone. Found solder arching current between two wire terminals in the switch. Trimmed the solder and fixed the problem. Dean Sanders Austin,TX From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jul 23 23:02:50 1997 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 22:52:54 -0400 (EDT) To: Frank Ferguson , "'bmwmc'" From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: No Low Beam Cc: "Diaz Jon" Reply-To: Brian Curry At 08:13 AM 7/23/97 -0700, Frank Ferguson wrote: >Here's a technical question for you. I've got a 94 K75 (basic one, no BMW >fairing) that has no low beam. >It's not the bulb. The switch seems to work. If I take a pair of needle >nose and use it to straddle what I take to be the (+) power in solder point >(green wire attached) and the solder point next to it, the high beam comes >on. If I then straddle the green solder point and the solder point to the >right of the high beam lead, I get nothing. This suggests to me that the >switch isn't the problem. Don't be too sure. The green with a blue tracer is the supply (12V) for the high beam flash only. The white with a yellow tracer should be hot (12V) when the ignition is on. The yellow is the feed for low beam and the white for high beam. (I have never had the switch apart to look.) If you can get high beam by "flashing" but not by the maintained contact (rolled up) you do not have a 12V feed coming in. I can't get a low beam by bypassing the switch >(assuming I've done it right). I do get a high beam, by the way. Turning, >now, to the headlight bulb connector, there are three "prongs" which I >assume are low, common and high respectively. Yup. I assume that low is on >continuously, It should not be. The K75S's had this set up, but it can lead to a wiring meltdown. Ask Jon Diaz. (Still under investigation. Details to follow when I have them.) No other models had the low beam on constantly. If you do, have it disconnect the single connection point in the relay box under the tank. and what is a normal high beam consists of both the low and >high filaments burning simultaneously. Should not be. What surprises me is that I get >continuity between the solder nodes on the switch and the two "side" prongs >of the headlight connector, You have a problem.... but no continuity between the center prong and >any point I can find either on the switch or on the frame of the bike. If >the prong is ground, that would suggest that the headlight couldn't work at >all. Any advice? Looking at the socket from the bulb side it is: __ High Beam (White) | | (Yellow) Low Beam | | Common/Ground (Brown) See if you have power at the right points. If you loose the ground strange things happen. You can get no low beam, but a high beam that is grounding through the low beam and dim. If you have continuity from the switch to the right connection, looking at the socket side, you have continutity from the switch to ground and that is not right nor good. Do you have power coming into the switch on the correct colored lead? Is it making it through from the switch to the socket? +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | "Do not give in to evil, but proceed ever more boldly against it." | | Virgil | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA | | The 9.25 cents a minute guy, USA SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jul 24 02:31:57 1997 Date: Wed, 23 Jul 1997 23:14:07 -0700 From: Nancy Evelyn Gold Organization: The Mobile Offices of Dr. Bombay To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Audio Followup X-Priority: 3 (Normal) Reply-To: Nancy Evelyn Gold Hey All, I've got a lot of requests for details on my audio system. The first installment will be posted next week. I'm hopeing to borrow a digital camera to take some pictures of the mountings. I just finished the final part of my two year upgrade process on my LT "Chloe". I added a CDX-802 CD Changer in the top case. This integrates completely with my Sony Head Unit and is completely controlled from my bars. The roadtest is tommorow AM, then I'll be sure the my choice of mounting and changer will work. My "jiggle" test so far checks out. I've had to shim the luggage bracket so the top case doesn't rattle at all. I still need to make a quick disconnect harness, I sometimes remove the top case. The articles on the audio will cover my completed LT project and the RT project that I'm about to start for a friend. I'll also discuss the failed attempt with a CD head unit. I'll only be covering the K1100LT and R1100RT, I don't have any information on the K100LT. Most of the LT info also applies to certain models of the K75RT (the ones that had the same fairing). --- Nancy BTW, thanks for all the corning tips. Kari's advice (and static demo last week) was really helpful. Shifting my weight makes a huge difference. It's clearly time to get the Ohlins rebuilt. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 11:49:33 1997 From: Frank Ferguson To: "'bmwmc'" , "'Diaz Jon'" Subject: BMW: RE: A Question For You Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:33:28 -0700 Reply-To: Frank Ferguson >I hate K bike wiring. Get another switch. :) >Jon I got the switch. It was "only" $63.90 from the boys at Aloha. I didn't realize that you bought the whole assembly AND the wiring pigtail. Wow, thinks I, what a simple install this will be. Snip the "ties", pop off the tank, unplug the old switch, toss it aside and plug in the new one. Slap on new ties, return tank and the job is done. Well...not quite. When they build this bike, the Turks who made it put the left hand combination switch in place "before" they installed the instrument cluster - headlight module. To do things right, ya gotta remove all that crap before you can take off the old switch and install the new one. Yeah, right. A quick slash with the truly gory serrated blade on my Leatherman tool severed the old cable, and the new one went in place without passing between the instrument - headlight assembly and the fork brace. Works fine. Now, about that slow leak in the front tire..... Francis Ferguson From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 12:01:42 1997 Date: Fri, 25 Jul 97 10:41:04 CDT From: rogerNoSpam@NoSpammostro.sps.mot.com (Roger Albert) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: Subject: BMW: Ummmm... actually it's 5k ohms.. Reply-To: rogerNoSpam@NoSpammostro.sps.mot.com (Roger Albert) Hi all, Don wrote to Mick and Jeff that the old airhead plugwires should have 5k endcaps. Not quite so quick... though I by and large agree, but as food for thought, let me offer: I have seen some /6s with 1k end caps. Said so right on the cap and measured spot-on 1kohm (I was suprised too) The old /2s had 0-ohm caps. That's why I'm commenting now. When I needed to replace my /2 caps, my mechanic said they could substitute some sort of (don't know which year) R65 endcap. I assume the implication is that they were zero or at least lower than 5k endcaps. I _believe_ that for most airheads, bmw only offers the 5k caps (possible exception being R65s) but that some places (such as cap-cycle) still sell 1k types. At any rate, for now, I have 1k on both my /6 and /2. Regards Roger unmaliciously stirring things up. =================================================== Roger Albert (go Illini!) Motorola. Austin, Texas rogerNoSpam@NoSpammostro.sps.mot.com Wireless/DSP Div. 56xxx Red Ducati M900 White 65 BMW R60/2 Blue 76 R90/6 74 R90/6 Sidecar project now on hold - needs chair 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado restoration now underway! --------------------------------------------------- Opinions expressed are always mine --, never Moto's =================================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 12:08:40 1997 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 08:36:52 -0700 Subject: BMW: 5k ohms/rough R65 X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 1,3-5,11-20 From: borgstrom1NoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (S Borgstrom) Reply-To: borgstrom1NoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com (S Borgstrom) >Jeff, Check the resistance of the plug lead, ie remove from coil and spark >plug, with a multi-meter you should have .05 resistance, if any lower ditch >the lead. There is one more test to perform on that spark plug cap. Use a small alligator clip to attach one lead from the multi-tester to the threaded part of the cap and stick the other up into the hole where the plug goes. Then tap the cap a bit with a screw driver. If the cap is good the read out on the multi-tester will stay the same, if it wavers the cap is on the way out. Stephen Borgstrom '91 K100RS '77 GL1000 BANG#2 Federal Way WA Remember: 90% of all carburetor problems are electrical From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 14:38:00 1997 Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 11:08:00 -0700 From: "Max C. McHatton" To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamcinnamon.com Subject: BMW: champion 430 experience Reply-To: "Max C. McHatton" I had my 95 R1100R int Hansens BMW/Triumph for some routine maint., and had arranged to install a set of Champion 430's for evaluation. They were installed as gapped from Champion. I rode the bike for three hours under varying conditions. I noticed no significant change in performance, but surging between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm was greatly reduced. With the Bosch plugs my surging was worst when in third gear between 3 an 4 k rpm. I'm going to leave them in. Max From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 14:46:19 1997 Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 14:22:20 -0400 From: Flash - DoD #412 To: AirheadsNoSpam@NoSpammicapeak.com, BMW-GSNoSpam@NoSpammicapeak.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: 0 Ohm Spark Leads Reply-To: Flash - DoD #412 0 Ohm Spark Plug Leads by David Braun copyright 1997 Pursuant to posting "A Plug for Bosch" I received a number of inquiries concerning 0 Ohm spark plug leads. Here is the bird's eye lowdown on the caper... The ignition system is designed for a 5000 Ohm load per spark plug with the load AT the spark plug. BMW chose to select non-resistor plugs and then stick with them for the entire R (air) series. I spoze this decision was made for interchangeabilty reasons. Anyway, if you run reisistor plugs, which have about 5000 Ohms built right in, then you have about 10k Ohms per plug in the system. (Note: electronics is a 20% science, so 10K means a measurement of 8,000 - 12,000 Ohms.) If you look in some BMW Factory Repair Manuals you'll see in a trouble shooting section under "Poor Fuel Economy," one reason being "High spark plug lead resistance." Considering that 10k is 2x 5k, running resistor plugs PROBABLY means that you're better off without the resistor caps. "But," you say, "I don't wanna CUT the resistor caps off my $27 BMW plug leads!" Right. You probably need new wire anyway. Making 0 Ohm plug leads... Cost: about $3 - $7 each. Finding a car parts place with a GOOD selection of electrical bits is sometimes tricky. Some towns have an Automotive Electrics place. Some towns will have a "speed shop" with folks who have more sense than the "help" at Western Auto. Go to these type of places. Buy 32" of COPPER CORE 7mm spark plug wire off a bulk roll. You actually need two 16" pieces. This stuff runs about 40 cents a foot or so. Take one of your old plug leads in with you and see if they have the brass pieces which are soldered to the end that sticks in the coil. No big deal if they don't. See if they have the rubber booties that cover the coil "towers" where the lead plugs in. Again, no biggie if they don't. I paid nothing for the rubber bits at my local CarQuest because they sell some sort of universal spark plug lead which comes with three types of booties. So, they had a box of extras sitting around and just gave them to me. I think the four brass bits cost me 71 cents total, tax included. Go to a dirt bike shop and get a pair of 0 Ohm 90 degree plug caps. These come in all shapes, colors, and mechanical design. You can pay anywhere from $1.99 to $7.99 each. I paid $1.99 each for one pair and $4.95 each for another (because they only had one pair of the cheapies). There is no performance difference. Get a soldering iron. Strip about 0.125" off both ends of both cables. Solder the thingie on for the spark plug. Then, stick it through the rubber plug cap. Dielectric grease is Good. So is Vaseline(tm) if you don't have dielectric grease. If you got new brass things and/or rubber booties for the coil end, great. If not, carefully remove these from your old plug leads. Install these bits on your new plug leads. Take the opportunity to give everything a good wire-brushing or steel wooling. Before you install these things, peer up into your coil(s) and if there is ANY corrosion, CLEAN IT OUT. Dip the leads in the tub of Vaseline which you keep in your garage or smear some dielectric grease on them before you plug them into the coil. Note: BMW plug caps require that you NOT use those things that screw on the top of the plugs. All of the 0 Ohm caps which I've seen require that your DO use those thingies. So, make sure you have a set of them around before you do this or you might find yourself in a "situation." One more thing, I put some dielectric grease in the booties that slip over the plugs. I found that I had to "burp" them or the trapped air would gradually push the caps off the plugs. Now consider this... when your wires get old and tired, instead of paying $27 each ($35 with inflation by the time that happens), you can just replace about $1 worth of wire (inflation adjusted). Meanwhile, you can run resistor plugs which are available EVERYWHERE and often on sale. YMMV. Check out my web page for BMW motorcycle Tales... =========================================================================== "A radar detector is a tax loophole that you have to buy." - D. Fry David A. Braun - FlashNoSpam@NoSpamDeathStar.org - DoD # 412 http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ Bike Manuscript Works, LLC, Ft. Collins, CO 80527-1643 =========================================================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 16:51:29 1997 From: "ynotfix" To: "Flash - DoD #412" Cc: "bmwmc" Subject: BMW: Re: 0 Ohm Spark Leads Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 13:23:05 -0700 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "ynotfix" David; You mention that when the new leads wear out..... The new leads you have made won't wear out, (at least not the conductor, and the insulation if made from silicone should last nearly forever). BTW the ONLY reason that there is any resistance in the high voltage circuit at all is due to the government. Yeah the FCC to be exact. It seems that introducing resistance in a high voltage spark circuit makes the current to the plug drop somewhat thus reducing the amount of radio interference. The resistance is put in at the wire because there is no guarantee that a resistor plug will be installed by the mechanic. If one doesn't give a damn about radio, television, or other electronic devices that might be affected then there's no need for the resistance, which is why racers, and high perf guys don't use them. But in our "kinder, gentler world" it probably is a good thing to continue to use "suppresion resistance" of some kind. Of course if you don't, it can really screw up somebodys TV, or radio reception,(Ha-ha-ha) when you drive past or sit idleing within range. And we wouldn't want to do that , would we? Tony Angco '96 K1100RS, '96 Triumph Trident 900 '84 Honda XLV750R M/C Krazy " If I can just get off of this (DAMN) L.A. freeway...." Thanks to Guy Clark for the quote. ---------- > From: Flash - DoD #412 > To: AirheadsNoSpam@NoSpammicapeak.com; BMW-GSNoSpam@NoSpammicapeak.com; bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: BMW: 0 Ohm Spark Leads > Date: Friday, July 25, 1997 11:22 AM > > > 0 Ohm Spark Plug Leads > by David Braun > copyright 1997 > > Pursuant to posting "A Plug for Bosch" I received a number of inquiries > concerning 0 Ohm spark plug leads. Here is the bird's eye lowdown on > the caper... > > The ignition system is designed for a 5000 Ohm load per spark plug with > the load AT the spark plug. BMW chose to select non-resistor plugs and > then stick with them for the entire R (air) series. I spoze this > decision was made for interchangeabilty reasons. Anyway, if you run > reisistor plugs, which have about 5000 Ohms built right in, then you > have about 10k Ohms per plug in the system. (Note: electronics is a > 20% science, so 10K means a measurement of 8,000 - 12,000 Ohms.) > > If you look in some BMW Factory Repair Manuals you'll see in a trouble > shooting section under "Poor Fuel Economy," one reason being "High > spark plug lead resistance." Considering that 10k is 2x 5k, running > resistor plugs PROBABLY means that you're better off without the > resistor caps. "But," you say, "I don't wanna CUT the resistor caps > off my $27 BMW plug leads!" Right. You probably need new wire anyway. > > Making 0 Ohm plug leads... > Cost: about $3 - $7 each. > > Finding a car parts place with a GOOD selection of electrical bits is > sometimes tricky. Some towns have an Automotive Electrics place. Some > towns will have a "speed shop" with folks who have more sense than the > "help" at Western Auto. Go to these type of places. > > Buy 32" of COPPER CORE 7mm spark plug wire off a bulk roll. You > actually need two 16" pieces. This stuff runs about 40 cents a foot or > so. Take one of your old plug leads in with you and see if they have > the brass pieces which are soldered to the end that sticks in the coil. > No big deal if they don't. See if they have the rubber booties that > cover the coil "towers" where the lead plugs in. Again, no biggie if > they don't. > > I paid nothing for the rubber bits at my local CarQuest because they > sell some sort of universal spark plug lead which comes with three > types of booties. So, they had a box of extras sitting around and just > gave them to me. I think the four brass bits cost me 71 cents total, > tax included. > > Go to a dirt bike shop and get a pair of 0 Ohm 90 degree plug caps. > These come in all shapes, colors, and mechanical design. You can pay > anywhere from $1.99 to $7.99 each. I paid $1.99 each for one pair and > $4.95 each for another (because they only had one pair of the > cheapies). There is no performance difference. > > Get a soldering iron. Strip about 0.125" off both ends of both cables. > Solder the thingie on for the spark plug. Then, stick it through the > rubber plug cap. Dielectric grease is Good. So is Vaseline(tm) if you > don't have dielectric grease. If you got new brass things and/or > rubber booties for the coil end, great. If not, carefully remove these > from your old plug leads. Install these bits on your new plug leads. > Take the opportunity to give everything a good wire-brushing or steel > wooling. > > Before you install these things, peer up into your coil(s) and if there > is ANY corrosion, CLEAN IT OUT. Dip the leads in the tub of Vaseline > which you keep in your garage or smear some dielectric grease on them > before you plug them into the coil. > > Note: BMW plug caps require that you NOT use those things that screw on > the top of the plugs. All of the 0 Ohm caps which I've seen require > that your DO use those thingies. So, make sure you have a set of them > around before you do this or you might find yourself in a "situation." > > One more thing, I put some dielectric grease in the booties that slip > over the plugs. I found that I had to "burp" them or the trapped air > would gradually push the caps off the plugs. > > Now consider this... when your wires get old and tired, instead of > paying $27 each ($35 with inflation by the time that happens), you can > just replace about $1 worth of wire (inflation adjusted). Meanwhile, > you can run resistor plugs which are available EVERYWHERE and often on > sale. > > YMMV. > > > Check out my web page for BMW motorcycle Tales... > =========================================================================== > "A radar detector is a tax loophole that you have to buy." - D. Fry > David A. Braun - FlashNoSpam@NoSpamDeathStar.org - DoD # 412 > http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ > Bike Manuscript Works, LLC, Ft. Collins, CO 80527-1643 > =========================================================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 18:33:01 1997 Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 17:54:19 -0400 From: Flash - DoD #412 To: flashNoSpam@NoSpammaniac.deathstar.org, ynotfixNoSpam@NoSpamwgn.net Subject: BMW: Re: 0 Ohm Spark Leads Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Flash - DoD #412 Tony Angco noted: > You mention that when the new leads wear out..... > The new leads you have made won't wear out, (at least not the conductor, > and the insulation if made from silicone should last nearly forever). They will wear out. The insulation will suffer ageing from exposure to ozone, ultra-violet, and petro-chemicals, and most of all, mechanical vibration. The copper core will suffer from mechanical vibration, too. Neither silicon nor copper lasts forever. > BTW the ONLY reason that there is any resistance in the high voltage > circuit at all is due to the government. Yeah the FCC to be exact. It > seems that introducing resistance in a high voltage spark circuit makes > the current to the plug drop somewhat thus reducing the amount of radio > interference. Yes. But so what? The whole point is the ability to use spark plugs which are widely available. Almost all cars use resistor plugs. My understanding is that having the resistor in close proximity to the plug damps out the antenna effect. The diminished spark current is incidental, a second order effect at best. The only point in running 0 Ohm cables and non-resistor plugs would be to annoy people. Why bother? =========================================================================== "A radar detector is a tax loophole that you have to buy." - D. Fry David A. Braun - FlashNoSpam@NoSpamDeathStar.org - DoD # 412 http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ Bike Manuscript Works, LLC, Ft. Collins, CO 80527-1643 =========================================================================== From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri Jul 25 19:43:45 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: , , Subject: Re: BMW: R11 Spark plugs yet again (longish) Date: Fri, 25 Jul 1997 16:31:42 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" Dave writes (and I'm late on this due to a computer dump): ---------- > From: davidebsmithNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com; bmw-r1100NoSpam@NoSpamcinnamon.com; lentiniNoSpam@NoSpamazstarnet.com > Subject: Re: BMW: R11 Spark plugs yet again (longish) > Date: Monday, July 21, 1997 10:48 PM > > Thanks and kudos, Rob!!! > > After installing the Autolite 3923's the improvement was so phenomenal I > re-installed some new BMW plugs to see if I was imagining it. Nope, the > surging came back. Again installed the Autolites and went for a long test > ride. With the bike hot and sitting in city traffic, there was still a > touch of surging -- but you wouldn't notice if you weren't looking for > it, and its not bad enough to subject my bike to the local BMW wrench > (who says the r11s don't surge and that crunching on 2nd->3rd is normal). About what I've seen. > > Also curiously, the BMW plug removed from the right cylinder was black > and damp, while the left one was clean (after a short test ride, in both > of two sets). Both Autolites showed the same beginning of a nice tan. Something else going on here. My Bosch's were always clean and tan. > I found that the out-of-the-box BMW plugs were gapped to about .7mm on > one side and .85 mm on the other; both within specs, but a pretty big > difference that makes me wonder if both sides will consistently spark? > > And by the way, the BMW plugs are almost impossible to re-gap. I bent my > Sears plug wrench before the electrode would move. Of course, the factory > surely uses the rare Bosch Sparkpluggapenwrencher to carefully gap the > plugs on each bike within .001 mm before shipping NEVER trust the as-delivered gap of plugs! > > Rob Lentini wrote: > > > My sense is that the engine works better with the standard gap > > configuration---that is the longitudinal (up and down) gap of the > standard > > electrode plug versus the sideways gap of the OEM Bosches. Perhaps > there's > > better flame propagation, or whatever... Heat range sure doesn't > matter in > > this case since both are so close. > > Could it make a difference that the gap is more fully exposed in the > combustion chamber AND is slightly further in, or away from the valves? That's my take! > Mike Caicedo wrote: > > > I fired up the bike and the i noticed right away a slight improvement > on the idling. At that > > time it started to rain, so I only had a chance to take it up the block > and back. > > Both Friday and Sunday, as soon as I installed the Autolites, it started > to rain. Please do not install Autolites or Champions if you live in a > flood plain. Perhaps we should all ship our bikes to Rob so he can get > rich making rain in Arizona. Thx! But if it would ONLY rain here just a little this summer! :))) Rob Lentini Tucson, AZ (520) 790-8865 (H), (520) 295-6411 (B) '94 R 1100 RS Three Flags 97 #205 MSF, BMWMOA, BMWRA, IOC, AMA BMWMOA Board Member "Elect" "LET'S RIDE MORE AND POLITIC LESS" From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 08:46:54 1997 X-Sent-Via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ From: "Rob Lentini" To: "John H. Outlan" Cc: "IBMWR" , "Oilhead" Subject: BMW: Re: Autolite Platinum Plugs Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 05:37:30 -0600 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "Rob Lentini" John Outlan asks: First of all thanks for your efforts in replying to my messages. Your a true gentleman and a scholar! No problem! Q: Are the 3923 Platinum plugs the same thing as the regular 3923's, but just with better metals? In other words, can I use them next time no problems, i.e. same heat range, etc? According to the Autolite catalog the "AP" platinum designation before the number indicates "Our basic design with the addition of a full platinum tip which delivers precision firing, smooth acceleration, top fuel economy and virtually no gap erosion up to 50,000 miles." Yes, the 3923 does come in an AP3923, but I've had two sets of 3923s in my RS, 12K miles for each set per the service book, and upon replacement they looked fine with minimal gap increase and a nice tan electrode color. So in an Oilhead, these standard 3923 plugs seem more than adequate. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 18:50:39 1997 From: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 18:09:37 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: WD-40 as contact cleaner Reply-To: WARUSZEWSKNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com In a message dated 97-07-27 15:25:35 EDT, you write: << WD-40 is a water dispersing (WD; the 40 is from the 40th attempt at a formulation..) LUBRICATING OIL. It is NOT a contact cleaner!! Lubricants will eventually collect dust and crap, and form a layer of crud over the connector contacts!! >> As it is a penetrating oil is does do a pretty good job of cleaning contacts. In my modified Conrad-Johnson pre-amp, the manufacturer reccomended the use of WD-40 over several high end (and high priced) audio such as cramolin and the more exotics. It will leave an oily film. This film will prevent further corrosion as it will keep the surface oxygen free. However, it will attract all kinds of krud like a magnet, as does any oily surface.. It does work and works well --- in enclosed area. Areas exposed to road dust (and to be fair, that is almost the whole motorcycle) it may end up being an excellent although tempory fix. VIC WARUSZEWSKI, SoD # 21 VI#1 MOA 85 K100RS BMW Touring Club of Detroit MOA#1, Motor City Beemers Team K-Basa #3 http://pages.prodigy.com/bmwtcd This space reserved ----- #--, R------ B------- R------ We'll have some high times, and live them low. Get some fast food and eat it slow. I'm hungry when I get up, and sleepy when I eat. Only time I feel right, I got the road beneith my feet. - The Fabulous Thunderbirds From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sun Jul 27 19:43:17 1997 Date: Sun, 27 Jul 1997 16:32:40 -0700 From: Dale Blanchard To: Rob Lentini Cc: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Autolite Platinum Plugs Reply-To: Dale Blanchard I put fuul platinum plugs in my 57 DKW car(2cycle) and traded it on a MB 180-D . they were in 30K and still ok. KLG from England, and you could take them apart to clean them. $4.00 ea in 1958. The ones in my 73 F-250 are still ok, any way they still work after 20k. I put them in my 78 Audi fox, it got smushed at 50k .plugs in 20k Put them in my son's Nissan, it got rear ended and smushed.plugs in 15k Put them in my wifes 78 Dasher, It was traded off at 190000 mikes.plugs in 20k. I think platinum plugs are a jinks., the vehicle either gets wrecked or you dont get to finish the test. Some of the newer cars are leaving them in for 100k miles. My VW Fox uses a 3 prong Bosch that are good for 30k and still good. the heat range is alittle hot for the Airhead, but I tried the and they worked ok. They could be a problem with the HI comp engines. The same heat range in the Bosch platinum works ok in my R-100-RT. I use sdt. plugs in my R-100-s/sidcar, it may make a good test bed because is a borderline pinger depending on the gas. It runs so well on 100 octane av gas that I thing it is my imagination. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat Aug 2 19:49:54 1997 Date: Sat, 02 Aug 1997 16:42:59 -0700 From: Greg Hutchinson To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com, bmw-gsNoSpam@NoSpammicapeak.com Subject: BMW: Solar battery system Reply-To: Greg Hutchinson Just finished installing the Solargizer Battery Maintenance System on the G/S. Simple install with industrial Velcro and some plastic slice connectors. Set the solar panel under the rack of the solo seat with Velcro. This should protect the panel from me and anyhting I strap on the back. Put another Velcro pad on the top of the exhaust side bad so I can move the panel when I use the full seat for a passenger. When the sun hits the panel, it puts out a high pitched squeal you can hear about 15 feet away. Guess that means it's working! Let's see if the energy challenged G/S will go farther between charges and if the battery will last longer. I'll let you know in about 3-5 years!! Greg Hutchinson BMW MOA Club Coordinator Foster City, CA K100LT K76 R80G/S R80ST R50/2 633csi From Kevin Kraebel Date: Tue, 26 Aug 97 08:54:55 -0500 From: Kevin Kraebel Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Mounting a C.B. to an RT Advice Greg, Yes, there is a pretty easy way to fix this. Nice tracking - the RID has an oscillator in it to drive the clock chip, and can-style oscillators spew noise EVERYWHERE. The best solution is to purchase "ground braid", a flexible metal braided hose that looks like an oriental finger puzzle, and slide this over the connectors all the way to the C.B. Ground ONLY the side nearest the battery. For esthetics, black nylon braiding over the top looks nice and keeps the metal braid from scraping the paint off stuff. I'll check sources on the braid if you like. Best, Kevin Kraebel Brentwood, TN R11RTL > I am trying to mount a C.B. to my RT. I am getting a bus load of > interference when I turn the key. I have tracked the problem to the > R.I.D. > Is there any way to filter this? From Frank Glamser Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 08:35:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Re:K-bike battery questions Thanks, Kim. I've printed a copy of your post for future reference. Frank Glamser "There are old motorcyclists, and there are Hattiesburg, Mississippi bold motorcyclists, but there very few old, '92 K75RT BMW RoM bold ones." On Wed, 27 Aug 1997, Kim wrote: > > Here's a simple test you can do to your battery to load test it with a > digital volt meter. > > Turn the bikes ignition on with the light on also and test. It should be > at least 11.5v. > > Place the side stand in the down position to cut off the fuel pump. Turn > on the ignition and press the start button for at least 14 seconds. Then > test the battery and it should show at least 10.5v. > > With no load the battery should show 12.8v for 100% charge. 12.4v for 75%. > 12.1 for 50%. 11.9 for 25%. > > If your battery is low in any of these tests then charge it. Try the tests > again and if it's low in the load testing then get a new one. > > Hope this helps, > > Kim Rydalch > Modesto, CA > From Mark Gensman Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 07:48:14 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: Valentine John A. Brown wrote: > > >On a similar thread, I received a radar detector from Valentine > >Research this weekend (sent by Express Mail - delivered to my house on > >Sunday! and they were delivering on Labor Day as well!). It had an > >intermittant electrical fault. I called them on Tuesday morning. > >They said "send it back." I asked if they would cross ship me another > >one. "Sure." It arrived before noon, today! The next day. > > > >These are more very good people to deal with. No hassles, no > >problems. And so far, the detector works great. Expensive, but worth > >it. > > > > My experience has been totally other. I ordered a Valentine, which they > were shipping by regular Fed-Ex and two weeks later I STILL did NOT have it! >-------SNIP------ > -- John A. Brown > Kalamazoo MI > '87 K100RT I bought a Valentine and they shipped it on time, it worked as advertised and has paid for itself many times over. The only problem I have had is the little knob on the remote (which drives the helmet headphone speaker) just spins in the box. I simply leave it alone and use the knob on the main unit. They group I ride with uses several other brands of detectors. Bel, Uniden, Whistler etc. The Valentine consistantly out performs those detectors by a HUGE margin and when set on full logic mode, rarely falses. The directional arrows alone have saved us mucho grief from more than clever local law. (turn off in front of us, circle around the block and come up behind with radar on). I am the designated "front man" on all our rides thanks to my Valentine. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From STIEFJBNoSpam@NoSpamSWIB.CCMAIL.compuserve.com Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 14:49:51 -0400 Subject: BMW: RE: Spark plug wires Alan, There is an alternative to buying the expensive BMW wires, or the less pricey but still expensive repro wires. You can make your own as I did. A while back someone on the list explained how to make wires from scratch, but that is not what I did. First, I purchased NGK spark plug caps "LB05F" from a motorcycle accessory shop ($2.50 apiece). Certainly the big mail order places have them too. The "05" means 5000 ohms, required for the electronic ignition bikes like your '84. The rest of the code, one part stands for the shape of the cap (90 deg angle) and the other part the material (plastic). Second I purchased a set of automobile spark plug wires for an old VW. I got a set of 4 Bosch for $14. The point is to get the ones with the copper core. Most autos instead have the carbon cores with resistance in the wire instead of the cap. Unscrew the caps which come with the wires (there is what looks like a screw in the cap which screws into the copper core of the wire- that is why the caps come off the wires on the car if you pull on the wire instead of the cap). Cut the wire to the length you want, and screw on the new caps. That is it. As an added feature, before I put the caps on, I added heat shrink tubing to the wire to resist chafing. A little dielectric grease from the auto parts store further prevents risk of the spark going astray. End result: 2 sets of wires for about the $25 cost of one from BMW. (I understand the wires with the metal caps are only $20 from BMW, listed under the GS bikes.) After I did this it occurred to me that I could have tested the resistance of the caps and then reused them on new wires if they were good, or if the wires were damaged where they screwed into the caps, I could have trimmed the end and reattached the cap. I did test the wires I removed, and they seemed good although there was some chafing of the insulation, so I unscrewed the caps and put left over heat shrink tubing over the wire and replaced the cap, so I have spares, too. Good Luck, John Stiefel Madison, WI '83 R65 '83 R80RT From Nancy Evelyn Gold Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 23:32:15 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: Radio Question Rand K Bikes I'm still typing one handed so I haven't posted my radio upgrade stuff yet... But, any Sony Radio that has the blue socket on the back will work with the RM2X controler. It has everything and can be mounted on the bars my fashioning a bracket. It controls *everything*. Even preset->preset on the radio. It even controls a CD changer. (Work's great with it too!) :-) - --- Nancy '93 K1100LT (Chloe) From Mark Gensman Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 07:25:46 -0700 Subject: Re: BMW: Radio Question Rand K Bikes Dr.Robert A. Harms wrote: > > I am considering an R or K bike but was kind of put off by the > clumsy radio access on the K bike. -------SNIP------ I discovered a simple fix for the radio access problem on my K. When I first purchased it, the radio had not arrived. I installed it myself a couple of weeks later and decided not to use the bar mount controls. I was quite put off by the design of the side compartment covers which required me to stop the bike to open them. Especially since I smoke and I could not access the cigarette lighter while moving. I fixed the problem. I cut off the top "ears" on the left cover and installed two small brass hinges on the left side of the cover. It now simply swings open. I had to adjust the clutch lever up a bit for clearance but the radio controls were fully accessable. Two months later I realized the radio was a complete waste of time at any speed above about 50 and took the thing out completely. I now have a neat storage compartment on the left with a false bottom that covers the wires and no speakers of any kind. I built a cigarette lighter bracket that mounts in the front wall of the compartment and I'm a happy biker. I took the mickey mouse ears off the rear trunk three days after buying my bike. Just what the K needs, more weight up high...not. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From lconleyNoSpam@NoSpamhns.com Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 15:27:12 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW: Valentine mounting for K75s Fred Burgess: > I am looking a mounting setup or ideas for mounting a > Valentine One on the K75S. Fred, I Exacto knifed the front of the map compartment on my K75S tank bag and velcroed it there. The rear laser was sacrificed as a result but the detector has an excellent look otherwise and is stealthy should I be deemed a scofflaw in either VA or D.C. Valentine advises that rear radar contacts will suffer no attenuation through your body. The remote is velcroed to the cover in front of the bars. I left an additional length of power cord under the cover. Should I be pulled over in VA or D.C. I would simply pull the remote off the velcro with power cord attached and push it under the right side of the cover. The remote volume and speaker takeoff box is velcroed to the end of the ignition computer on the right side. The coiled power cord exits the front of the right hand cover and enters an inline phone jack power connection in the end of the tank bag. I unstrap the tank bag for gas station stops and set it on the seat power cord attached. A simple disconnect of the RJ11 phone jack power connection is all thats needed to walk with the tank bag. Lou Conley Gaithersburg, MD From "Diaz Jon" Date: 11 Sep 1997 08:48:03 U Subject: BMW: K75 starting problem Walt Hobbs wrote: >'87 K 75 S that has starting problem. Cranked over slowly last week and >then starter continued to crank after starter button was released and >even when the key was turned off and removed. Trying to start the bike with a flat battery welded the starter relay closed, hence the starter continuing to run. Installing another relay should fix the problem. Jon Diaz From Ernie Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:00:29 -0700 Subject: BMW: Re: Stalling - '90 K75RT > > > > A quick note from an Electrician; > > "Most all electrical problems are bad connections" > > The first (and only) time my K1100LT misfired, stalled and gave me a > > hard time starting, all of the connections from the bottom of the > > coils > > to the computer, then to the Hall Gen., kill switch, ignition switch, > > and fuel pump were opened and cleaned with contact cleaner. Gave them > > a > > few moments to dry, then put a little dab of "Luberex" white grease > > in the center of the female connections, including the big computer > > connection and then wiping off the excess before mating. > > No problems since. > > This brand of white grease can be found at most electrical/electronic > > stores. I have used other brands of white grease, and they work just > > as well. The connections on my XS1100 Special (which were done in > > 1981) are still good after a life time of out door parking, a couple > > of hundred thousand miles, and a few of washings. > > > Todd McGuinness wrote: > > Nothing like a good clean and lube job before mating huh? Where low voltage electrical connections are concerned, you can bet your booties on it. I even go so far as to put a little dab of white grease on my finger and smear it around the base of light bulbs when their being replaced. When working on the bike, any connection I come across that has not been previously lubricated gets done before it goes back together. Ever try to get a corroded bulb out of a socket without destroying everything? How many weeks have some of you spent trying to figure out why your bike wasn't running right, just to find a bad connection in the wiring harness? This is one case where "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Ernie Hansen Lancaster, CA othNoSpam@NoSpamptw.com From BMWNoSpam@NoSpamcomet.net (Phil Marx) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 16:31:09 -0500 Subject: Re: BMW: Male accessory plug #s. John Deere: Plug: RE 11344 $7.25 (last purchased) Socket: AL 25073 $3.74 (ditto) Plug: Bosch 0 352 321 001 Socket: Bosch 0 352 222 011 BMW: Plug: 61.13.8.060.106 $8.17 (List price last time purchased) Socket:61.13.8.060.102 (Old part number) Capital list $9.95 (NLA from BMW?) Accessory Plug kit (socket and wire) various part numbers, some with mounting bracket, all priced around $22 list, from BMWNA. - -Phil Marx BMWMOA #2024 Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 00:36:38 -0400 From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: Re: K1100 Starter Relay Stuck At 12:07 PM 9/29/97 -0700, you wrote: >>At 10:04 AM 9/27/97 -0700, David Brick wrote: >> >>>When the starter engaged, the lower battery voltage caused excessive >>>current to be drawn through the starter relay. >> >>I don't think so. The current is proportional to the voltage applied. And >>I "think" the motor is a permanent magnet unit, so it does not pull until it >>it dead, like a series or compound wound unit. >> >Humm, it might actually depend on how much it dropped. If it >only dropped a volt there might be enough current available to >provide the power it wants. At that point the current would >not be propotional to the voltage but a result of "the law". > >12 volts to make 100 watts takes 8 1/3 amps >13 volts to make 100 watts takes 7.7 amps "The Law" depends on the characteristics of the device. If it can make or deliver constant power the law applies. But if it is turning the engine over slower, it is not delivering constant power or necessarily the same amount as when it is turning the engine over faster. (Pumping that damn oil and friction.) A common mistake. And one that I catch myself in also. If the starter motor is a permanent magnet unit, as I think it is, rather than a series or compound wound unit, it is not constant power pulling more amps to deliver the same power not matter what the speed. DC motors are strange beasts with weird performance curves depending on how they are made/designed. >While this may not explain David's problem it is something to >watch for, esp when trying to figure why a certain fuse >might be blowing (more of my old expertise). Yes, but you have to know the characteristics of the device. It is kind of like the cold resistance of a headlight is less than the hot resistance. But an electric vest is basically constant, cold or warm, because the wire temperature delta is much less. Here is a real world BMW related device story. A K fuel pump is basically a constant volume pump, where it delivers the same volume per revolution no mater what the discharge restriction is. So as the filter clogs, it is working against a higher and higher discharge pressure. So it is working harder right? So it requires more power right? So it is pulling more current right? Unfortunately NO. :(:( I have a fuel filter that is virtually completely clogged. It is hard to blow through. But the fuel pump current (amps) change between a clean filter and this clogged one, is virtually nil. This really disappointed me as I was hoping it would be a good diagnostic. I think the Fuel pump is a permanent magnet unit too, not series and not compound wound. Just some useless trivia for you..... And kicked back to the list, due to the additional technical input. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | "We cannot tolerate the proliferation of this paperwork any longer. | | We must kill the people producing it." | | - Vladimir Kabaidze 1936 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 00:36:42 -0400 From: Brian Curry Subject: BMW: Re: Remote Diagnostics At 11:09 AM 9/29/97 -0600, Jay Martin wrote: >Hi all, > >An electrical problem that's 2,000 miles away. > >My R75 is in Vermont. I'm 11 days away from going to Vermont for a ride. >My brother reports to me that the battery is kaput. The symptoms sound >like a poor physical connection rather than a failed battery. See below. I bet the battery. >The history-- >One year ago the battery was new (BMW). > >After my maiden voyage with the bike last fall, I removed the battery and >left it in the house on an intelligent charger that failed part way through >the winter and boiled the battery some. Not good at all. >I returned this past spring, put the battery back in the bike, and rode >around New England looking at colleges with my daughter. NO BATTERY >PROBLEMS on that trip. > >I leave the battery in the bike and hook the broken charger to the battery, >this time on a timer that only turns it on once a day for an hour. My >brother checks it after a few weeks and the fairing clock has stopped >ticking, the horn won't toot, and the lights won't light. Very much not a good thing. Having it discharge and stay that way, tends to take you to a sulphated battery. Sulphated batteries are very much a bad thing. :(:( Generally, unless you have one of the wonder chargers that are supposed to be able to reverse sulphation, the battery is toast. (I would love to see some one do a good test of one of these with before and after testing and inspection of the plates or a capacity test.) It is a mater of how long the battery sat there discharged, with loads of lead suphate on the plates surrounded by weak sulphuric acid, :(:( rather than lead and lead dioxide on the plates and real strong acid. :):) (I also wish Battery Man, Anton, would jump in on these things.) >I send out a very good charger (one that's used to compliment the battery >backups on home Oxygen units), complete with "Brian Curry" connections. >This past weekend Tim is over in the area of the bike, plugs the charger >into the accessory outlet and returns after a few hours to find the charger >lamps indicating that it's successfully brought the battery to full >voltage. Nother not a good sign. It should take a day or so to come up to full charge, based on a guess of the charging ability of a backup charger. The horn toots for part of one second and then sounds like a >solenoid clicking; no lights. More confirmation. The sulphation will not go out of the plates, but the voltage will come up as much as it can, and might just look to the charger that all is well. (That is what changes the charger over to float from charge, the battery voltage, which is not the best indicator in the world, but the best the charger manufacturers can do at a reasonable cost and not being to intrusive.) I have also BTDT, with failing chargers, and batteries that were toast. He doesn't have a multimeter with him to >check the battery's voltage and won't be back in that area until after I >get there. > >I'm wrestling with whether I need to get a new battery, or if all I've got >is a bad physical connection. What do you think? I would bet on the battery being toast. But, take a set of bike jumper cables with you. You can at least get it moving and to some where that will allow you to get a new battery. Also, shame you don't have a /5 or a 4 speed box. You probably have enough battery to kick it but not by much. If Tim, left it on the intelligent charger, it may bring it back a bit more. The constant "float current" may convert just a bit more of the lead sulphate :(:( to more desirable forms of lead. Good luck. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | "We cannot tolerate the proliferation of this paperwork any longer. | | We must kill the people producing it." | | - Vladimir Kabaidze 1936 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Tue, 7 Oct 1997 21:45:04 -0400 From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: Heated Grips/Question!!! At 06:02 AM 10/6/97 -0400, Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > >I am contemplating the installation of heated grips on my R1100RT and have >three questions that I would like to pose to the learned Presidents. >1) Do heated grips work at highway speeds? Yes, they certainly do. Your hands are warm on the inside even if they are cold on the outside. With Mitts, they are warm everywhere. >2) Do heated grips place a major burden on the battery/charging system? Not on a R1100. With 700 Watts you have electricity to spare. Even on an old K bike you have 340 Watts excess over what the house loads are. >3) Which heated grips are best...BMW brand or an after-market brand, if >after- market, which do you recommend? BMW looks cleaner. After market is cheaper. >You will note from my sig. line that I am in the Gulf South, but I intend to >tour out West during the cooler months. Good move. Heated grips are great for when it gets just a bit cool. You are getting some or have electric clothing right? Like a vest or jacket liner? These are first before the grips IMO. | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | Date: Tue, 07 Oct 97 11:46:49 PST8 From: jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpamCCGATE.HAC.COM Subject: BMW: RE: Radar in the Rain >Subject: Re: BMW: Soggy Radar Detector... > >In a message dated 97-10-07 09:51:41 EDT, roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com writes: > ><< I see no need to actually *use* my detector when it is raining. Cops >don't > like to give tickets when it is raining -- unless it is really a flagrant > violation -- because they have to get out of their cruisers and get wet. > > > Regards, > Roozbeh WXPNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com responds: >I believe I have read/heard that rain drops disperse the beam, so that the >probability of fighting the ticket on a radar readout alone is very high, and >the courts don't want to be bothered with going thru the motions and wasting >their time since they won't be seeing any bucks in it. ======================================================== Rain attenuation of radio signals depends on the frequency of the signals. C-Band signals are not attenuated much by rain. But K-, Ka-, and Ku-Band signals are very susceptible to such attenuation. The rule is: the higher the frequency, the more the radio signal is attenuated by _visible_ atmospheric humidity (rain, snow, sleet, fog, heavy clouds, etc). +----------------------------------------------+ | jfbrownNoSpam@NoSpampower.net (J.F. Brown) | | Net Surfin' from Manhattan Beach, California | +----------------------------------------------+ Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 15:47:08 -0600 From: Michael Clark Subject: RE: BMW: suggestions>> R1100 & Mounting Radar detectors RCU is distributed by BMW of Salt Lake 1-888-BMWOFSLC. I velcro my GPS III to my RCU shelf. It's a handy little thing to have. - -- Mike > -----Original Message----- > From: Gary Nelson [SMTP:gnNoSpam@NoSpamcray.com] > Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 12:39 PM > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: Re: BMW: suggestions>> R1100 & Mounting Radar > detectors > > > Bob Edmiston wrote: > > > > Hello All, > > > > Looking for some advice on mounting a radar detector on a R1100RTL. > > > > 1) What do you use?? > > > > 2) Brand and model of detector?? > > > > Your suggestions/experience will be greatly appreciated! > > > I purchased a shelf from RCU Designs that attaches above the > instrument cluster, and I mount my battery-powered Solo 5 on > the shelf with that super velcro stuff from Radio Shack (Super > Lock or some such name). The radar detector then peeks over > the top of the fairing. > > I run a cord from the radar detector to my helmet speakers. > For me, the key is hearing the first warning beep. When > the signal is full on, it's too late. If I'm riding without > jacking in, I seldom notice the Solo 5 display light up. > > I saw the shelf advertised in ON or OTL. I don't have either > with me, but can check for contact info if you're interested. > The shelf was 50 USD (whew!), but on more than a few occassions > this summer I've been aware of the presence of radar before > being surveilled, so it's been well worth it. > > ------------ > Gary Nelson > St. Paul, MN > USA > 1996 R1100RTA > gnNoSpam@NoSpamcray.com > BMW RA 17682 > BMW MOA 59674 > ------------- Date: Thu, 16 Oct 97 14:14:42 EDT From: Tom Coradeschi Subject: Re: BMW: Speaking of Radar Detectors... Steve Heywood; >Something else to think about. X-band, while almost oboslete is still being >used. I discovered (almost too late I might add) that The Colorado State >Police is still using X-band. Local law enforcement has also been known to >dig an x-band unit out of mothballs and set up a "speed trap" near a source >of "false alarms". Treat every "hit" as a potential "threat". To add to that: In NJ, X-Band is still in VERY wide use. And laser has not passed judicial review:-} and photo radar is illegal:-} We may have the most expensive auto insurance in the nation, but it _is_ relatively easy to avoid being ticketed here:-} tom "bookawitz" coradeschi <+> tcoraNoSpam@NoSpamskylands.ibmwr.org BMW's Miracle Ride was October 12th! Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 10:03:01 -0700 From: Jim Larsen Subject: BMW: Speaking of Radar Detectors... Edward wrote: >I used to have a Passport which worked fine while X-band radar lasted, but >instant on ate up its usefulness. Are there some new detectors that work >better? Any recommendations? How about that Valentine 1? Edward, A few days ago my son (23) returned home really uptight that he got a ticket for 51 mph in a 35 mph zone in his 325IS BMW. What really got to him is that he had just installed the top of the line latest out Whistler Radar Detector with all coverages including voice alerts and yet he never received a warning! We drove to the speed trap area and as I rounded the bend 3/4 mile away my Valentine V1 went off with minimum intensity on the "K" band. I pulled over and parked and when a car passed in excess of the speed limit my V1 went crazy with warnings. Nothing from the Whistler. We drove to within 300 feet of the police car and noticed that he had the radar gun out the window pointing at the ground. My V1 never stopped giving me a warning and would go off like crazy every time the officer took a speed reading. Only once did the Whistler go off when we were within 200'. We then drove passed the officer with his gun pointing at the ground and my alert arrow that was showing the warning ahead of us then showed the radar to the side and then behind us. We drove around the area and picked up 3 and 4 radar hits from different sources at the same time with all arrows lit up. Summary: The V1 is extremely sensitive and the direction arrows are fantastic. I researched every unit made and then I bought the V1. I highly recommend the V1! Jim Larsen K100RT & K100RS SF Bay Area Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 00:32:35 -0400 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: BMW: K hi/lo beam switch - as long as we're on the subject.. Folks - I know we've beaten it almost to death, butt - a few notes on an experiment I performed this weekend on my K100RT ('85) As some may remember, I wuz running an 80/100 bulb in the K in the attempt to get more light where I need it.. I recently removed the 80/100 and found the inside of the envelope (bulb) had deposits on it - indicating to me that it was running at a lower voltage than designed for (halogen bulbs are designed to run so hot that the normal filament deposits are evaporated off the inside of the envelope back onto the filament). Another thing I'd noticed lately is that my hi-low switch was developing a dead spot when switching from high to low or low to high. It also was stiffer to use than I'd remembered. Figuring the switch was about to do a meltdown, I decided I had nothing much to loose by taking it apart and looking to see if I could find what was wrong.. or starting to go wrong. ============================================================================ CAVIATS: Don't do this in the driveway (BTDT-WDIA).. don't do it if you're a klutz with tiny parts.. don't do it if your switch is OK - it might not be when you're done. ============================================================================ I unscrewed the switch from the handgrip (while parked in the driveway), unclipped the tie-wraps holding the cable in place, and put it up on my tankbag for dissection. There are LOTS of little phillips (+) screws holding things together in the light switch.. so I grabbed my magnetic parts holder thingie, and put it on the tankbag next to the switch. It became obvious to me - that to take the actual switch outta the housing, first the plastic plate holding the wires in place gotta be removed (three screws - one of a different length).. and then the horn and turnsignal buttons gotta come off (more little screws). ============================================================================ CAVIAT: The horn button has behind it - a tiny spring AND a funny brass piece - which is not magnetic - and WILL jump right outta there onto the driveway (BTDT). Takes a while to find (BTDT), and the horn button only will work if it's put back in (BTDT) the right way (BTDT). IF not installed, or not installed the right way - you have a permanent ON horn button (BTDT) which will annoy the neighbors as soon as you turn the ignition on (BTDT). ============================================================================ After removal of these two buttons, and 3 more screws (again, different length screws) - you can remove the switch from the housing and examine it. Mine didn't look 'bad' - but operating it - I could see the contacts which switch the hi/lo.. and they were gunked up with dirt.. black sorta dirt. I used some flammable/carcinogenic/bad-stuff electrical cleaner on the end of a rag with a tiny screwdriver inside it to clean them. I found it necessary to operate the switch lots of times before they started staying clean. Note - they are barely visible when you switch the switch, but if you look REAL closely - you can see them - they're little round lumps that a wiper assembly rubs over.. This - I hoped - would clear up the dead spot, butt the switch itself was still stiff to operate. I looked some more, and found that there are two tiny ball-bearings that are prolly spring loaded, which move in/out of several holes and a slot.. these provide the detent for hi/lo, and the spring loaded return for the hi-beam flash function. I tried spritzing (tech-term) some WD-40 on these - with little effect.. so I got out my moly-lube (left over from spline stuff), and poked some into the holes with a toothpick as I operated the switch back and forth. I also lubricated the contact area with a non-greasy lubricant (LPS) made for this sort of application (at least it sez so on the can).. Much smoother now.. Reassembly went OK, until I started looking for the brass piece for the horn button (which I found in a rag I used to protect the tank), and until the tiny - special - screw holding the horn button went flying.. finally found a replacement for it down in my cellar junk-screw-bin.. (it is a VERY special screw - don't loose it!). Turned the ignition on and found: 1. No dead spot 2. Regular (55/60) headlight bulb appeared brighter than the 80/100 had 3. Much smoother operation 4. Horn blowing continuously - had the brass thingie in backwards.. Conclusions: - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The interior of the switch had obvious road-dirt in it - the bike is 12-13 years old, has obviously been in the rain (rain trails inside the switch), butt - the contacts, once cleaned looked FINE, and all wiring was fine (no solder melting). I seem to remember some other prez's dissecting their failed switches and finding that the soldered connections to the contacts had failed.. indicating to me that there was an AWFUL lotta heat - prolly caused by dirty contacts (resistance) heating up enough to melt the solder. The accumulation of road-dirt could cause this sort of high-resistance failure. The switch is NOT well weather sealed (surprise!), and there is no obvious way to seal it - but a seal where on the joint on the top where it attaches to the handgrip would help a LOT (gonna use some sealant on this - real soon now), since most of the rain marks looked like they came down from this joint. My advice - don't do this in the driveway - and I'll prolly do it on a semi-annual basis. A trick I learned when rebuilding sailboat winches is to do this sorta thing inside a shoebox - the parts then only have one way to jump out (up) so the chances of retaining all of them is much higher - gonna do it this way next time. If you are seeing what appears to be (a) less light out front (b) stiff or knotchy operation (c) a dead spot - you MAY be able to rescue your switch before total failure occurs. If not - you need a new one anyway, so nothing ventured nothing gained. Best, If any prez's have dead switches laying around - I'd be interested in dissecting a few to see what failure modes I find.. or hearing from people who have opened up the failed switches. Plus - if you send it to me, I'll have spares for all those little screws/balls/springs that tend to go flying. EMail me for my address if you'd like to donate dead switches to the cause.. I'll summarize what I find and post it here. Best, ================================== Don Eilenberger, Spring Lk Hts, NJ deilenbergerNoSpam@NoSpammonmouth.com ================================== "Ultimately most problems can be solved by applying a Large Brick to the Correct Skull. Difficulties arise when you don't have a brick or can't find the the right skull. The Devil is always in the details." Date: Thu, 16 Oct 1997 08:15:02 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Subject: Re: BMW: Radar Detector-Valentine RWILES wrote: > > I bought a Valentine 1 with Laser, but send it back for a refund. The > unit IS an excellent unit for a car, although it has drawback; for a > bike, it doesnt't suit too well. I strongly disagree. The add-on unit needed to drive a speaker/earphone is cumbersome and bulky. The "magic" of the front-middle-side arrows derives from a front-and-rear antenna set up; > The rider's body blocks the rear antenna Absolutly not true, the rear reciever has saved my butt several times on my bike. > Finally, the display is confusing. -----SNIP---- Three directional arrows and the number of bogeys is confusing? Who cares what kind of radar you are getting hit with? When it goes off slow down! > > FWIW, one of the best units ever made IMHO was the Whistler made for > motorcycles, since discontinued. -----SNIP---- >From every test I've ever seen it isn't half as good as the V-1. > Wish someone would make a motorcycle-specific unit that would: > * Come on with the ignition key (wire it properly and they all will) > * Go off with the iginition key (wire it properly and they all will) > * Is water- and vibration-proofm(I have ridden with my V-1 in a raging downpour for hours. Put a ziplock baggy around it) > * Has a remote rear antenna (The V-1 rear antenna works GREAT) > * Has a REAL LOUD buzzer (I agree) > * Has an interface or audio output to jack the sound into a helmet > speaker (I agree the V-1 is lacking this feature and the remote is a pain in the butt) > * Is small and easy to mount (The size only seems to be a drawback as far as vibrating mass is concerned, I agree with you. I liked the size of my old Uniden). > -- > Prezz RogerRamJet, President, Internet BMW Riders > rwilesNoSpam@NoSpamprodigy.net - Lakeland FL > *** R11"S" *** > "The road goes on forever/ ...and the party never ends" I had a Snooper RD4000 (before I bought a Uniden) and I drilled a hole and mounted a mini jack in parallel with the speaker and it drove my helmet speaker quite well. I tried it with the Uniden unit and let the smoke out. I agree the Valentine needs a driven output. Other than that, I don't know how I got along without it. It has paid for itself many times over. The wiring,(fixed length phone wire) remote power supply and remote unit are a pain in the ass for motorcycles and Valentine obviously hasn't thought of us at all. The alternative is to ride at the speed limit. That's a bigger pain in the ass. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:08:49 -0800 From: roozbehNoSpam@NoSpamwco.com (Roozbeh Chubak) Subject: BMW: Valentine Accessories At 07:15 AM 10/16/97, Mark Gensman wrote: >I had a Snooper RD4000 (before I bought a Uniden) and I drilled a hole >and mounted a mini jack in parallel with the speaker and it drove my >helmet speaker quite well. I tried it with the Uniden unit and let the >smoke out. I agree the Valentine needs a driven output. Other than >that, I don't know how I got along without it. It has paid for itself >many times over. The wiring,(fixed length phone wire) remote power >supply and remote unit are a pain in the ass for motorcycles and >Valentine obviously hasn't thought of us at all. I went to RadioShack and for $11 and change picked up this small amplifier-speaker combo gadget that runs on a 9-V battery. (Tt is about the size of a packet of cigarets). I hook up the output of my V1 accessory jack to this amp/speaker and it is plenty loud enough to be heard at highway speeds even if the radio is on loud. (You can hardwire a 12-9 transformer on the bike to avoid battery use, even though the battery will last for weeks.) Regards, Roozbeh Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 12:08:05 -0400 (EDT) From: LawsonCLNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Subject: BMW: Radar Detector-Valentive Roger Wiles writes of the V 1 remote audio unit: >>The add-on unit needed to drive a speaker/earphone is cumbersome and bulky.<< Compared to a microchip, yes. Compared to a pack of unfiltered Lucky Strikes it is about one-fourth the size. Geesh! Get the Valentine. It's the best. Anything else is just a waste of money. Deal with any inconveniences--be they perceived or real. Since I got my V-1 last April, I figure I'm about $1,000 and one driver's license suspension ahead because of it. Chris Lawson BOOF #15 R100LT R100GS/PD Date: Sat, 18 Oct 1997 09:08:30 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Subject: Re: BMW: Ear plug speaker? Mark Mollere wrote: > > Does anyone out there have/use "ear plug speakers"? I'm looking for a > place to send molds of my ear (canal) to have speakers made for my > listening enjoyment while riding. The speakers I have now (Bass Monster > from AeroStich) are nice, but above 40 MPH, I'd like better. Thanx for > any assistance. > > Mark Mollere > Rota, Spain > > P.S. Send all "anti-radio listening while riding" comments to /dev/null. Mark, I have a list of contacts for you. All are U.S. based. 1. Garwood Communications 215-860-6866 2. Bross Audio 615-254-9040 3. Precision Audiotronics 407-831-1639 4. Sensaphonics 312-432-1714 My recommendation is you invest in a studio quality headphone set and cut some foam out of your helmet to get them to fit. Lots cheaper and better sound. I have a Radio Shack pillow speaker mounted in my helmet with velcro and it appears to work well. It cost $3.99. They are about 1 1/2" round and I cut it apart and installed a heavy wire in it. I use mine for my detector, but if I was looking for the best sound, I would buy the best set of headphones I could afford. Good luck. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" From bmwbrianNoSpam@NoSpamvoicenet.com Tue Oct 21 20:46:07 1997 Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 20:46:05 -0400 To: Thomas Hundt , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: [K-Tech] Is 700W alternator a drop-in replacement? Loena was here. At 07:23 PM 10/21/97 -0400, Thomas Hundt wrote: >So this begs the question: can one upgrade easily? >Anybody done it? Yes, and no. You need the larger alternator. You also need the new alternator cover. (Not a biggy.) You also need a new radiator overflow tank. (The alternator runs into the old one.) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ |"Remember, 'In the next ten years, our confusion will reach new heights| | of sophistication.'" | | - Alex McBirney | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 03:03:20 -0400 From: Bob DeHaney Subject: BMW: Fooling Radar and Lasers Guys, I spent some years in the USAF in this business and I promise that covering the Scotchlite on your license plates will have zero effect. = Radar is not optical. It's reflecting primarily off the metal parts of your bike. That means that a cage gets caught at a greater distance than= a bike, so much metallic area. Gives a nice big target return. Active jammers won't work, too much power and/or sophisticated electronics required. Stealth techniques are not feasible on a bike. The fairing is= virtually transparent to Radar and don't know of any way to get rid of al= l that metal in the motor and gearbox. The Radar warner is still the best solution. If a modern laser is set up on a tripod, the beam just needs one teenie tiny solid hit and your'e targeted and measured. Where the inaccuracies come in is the handheld jobs. Laser detectors can work because there is some laser light bouncing off previously hit targets, street,etc. I also= have some experience with infrared and a huge infrared jammer will just show up as that much bigger signal on the detector so you're just attracting attention. The tactic in Germany is to try to make sure some part of another vehicle= is in the picture, or if you see you've been hit, turn off the road or go= crosscountry. They usually set up the trap and then radio to the stopper= coppers that a black motorcycle is coming. Also radar detectors are now legal here, but if you're stopped for speeding and they find the detector= , they double up on the fine because in the Man's opinion you're a chronic speeder and are using the detector to support the habit. Bob in Munich '94 K1100RS Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 10:33:17 -0500 (CDT) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: r90/6 question On Thu, 23 Oct 1997, Vicki Heater wrote: > will some one tell me what the resistance of the spark plug wire is > on a '74 r90/6? and how to test the wire? my bike miss fires on the left > cylender. if i pull the cap partially off the plugthe bike settles down to a > smooth idle, push it on fully ,it stutters or fails to fire at all. The /6 wires were not resistor wires. The cap has the resistance. Should be about 4,000 ohm I think. They are prone to need periodic replacement. Replace them both. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 07:26:04 -0500 From: Karl Rosenbaum Subject: Re: BMW:CB Radio Question At 06:09 AM 10/26/1997 -0500, you wrote:

    I would like to buy/mount a CB on/in my R1100RT and am interested in
finding the best value and convenient features.
    Last weekend I visited the vendor area at a Wingebago rally and saw one
that looked good but was very, read that VERY, expensive!  It was, I believe
built by Clarrion (sp?) and carried a Honda label.  The controls were mounted
on the left handlebar, the unit itself was burried somewhere under the
fairing, and the mike and speakers were helmet mounted.  It had a provision
for playing a walkman or some such radio or tapes thru the CB/helmet
speakers.  I liked everything about it except the $650. price/installed at
the dealership in Ohio.  Didn't think to ask the box price.

This is not much cheaper, but here is a suggestion. I have a eurocomm intercom system. I can plug it into the radio and there are provisions to add a transceiver. I have a K100LT and I have the intercom mounted in the tail area above the tail lamp. The intercom unit itself is the size of a credit card, just a little thicker (maybe a 1/2 inch). I have seen a Motorola CB radio at the dealer that directly plugs into the autocomm. I am not sure of the cost of the radio, but the autocom unit with 2 mikes and all was $500. The CB is something that I am going to install later.
This setup works well if you have a passenger. I don't know if that is something that you do. I also included the url for the autocomm web page for you:

http://www.autocom.co.uk/


Regards,

Karl Rosenbaum
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 1997 10:30:41 +0800 From: "Victor M. Kimura" Subject: BMW: Battery tenders and BMW accessory plugs Manger, Ted wrote: >> Thanks to all who responded to my plea about winter storage proceedures. I >> checked the opinions here with my dealer mechanic, he says one thing I need >> is a battery tender with a bmw plug Buddy Burnett responded: >Walmart sells a battery tender type charger that sells for $25, which is >made by the Schummacher company. It does the same thing as the Battery >Tender by Deltran, has the tiny little led lights, the same charge rate, >but costs less than half the Deltran charger. You will still need to buy >the accessory plug from your dealer and splice it on to the new charger, >but that's pretty mindless if know the difference between a phillips head >and flat tip screwdriver. I know that Buddy said attaching a BMW accessory plug to a battery tender was "mindless," but to electrical neophytes like me, nothing having to do with electricity is that easy. Here's something I wrote up for a BMW colleague back in May 1997 when I bought a Deltran Battery Tender (Super Smart) from my local BMW dealer and connected the Tender to the BMW accessory plug. The colleague wanted to use the Battery Tender for his cage (Honda) and his BMW (motorcycle). Victor ***************************************************************** In addition to the two cords running from your Deltran Battery Tender (one to the electrical source in your house and one to the battery), the Deltran comes with two additional cords, which should be in the box: one with standard black and red clamps that attaches to the negative and positive posts of any conventional battery, respectively, and one with red and blue circular clips that attaches to the positive and negative posts of a typical motorcycle battery, respectively, but only if you screw the clips down. Certainly one could utilize the circular clips for charging one's motorcycle battery, but that would, in some instances, entail removing the battery from the bike. The advantage of the BMW accessory plug is that you can charge the battery simply by inserting the accessory plug into any accessory outlet on the bike. Therefore, decide which of the two additional cords you would LEAST likely use to charge your Honda. Say, in this case, it turns out that you won't be using the cord with the red and blue circular clips for your Honda. Mark the wire leading to the red clip positive (+), and then cut off both clips with a wire cutter, as close as possible to the clips themselves (in order to maximize the length of the remaining cord). Expose about 1/4-1/2 inch of each wire by trimming back the outer cover, making certain you still know which wire you marked (+). Take apart the BMW plug. In the plug you'll note that there are two connections. Connect the (+) wire to the inner connection, and the other (-) wire to the outer connection within the plug. Tighten everything up and you're set to go. Of course, the new corded BMW plug you created (formerly the cord with the red and blue clips) connects to the cord coming from your Deltran Battery, as will the other cord with the standard black and red clamps. If you decide that you will be using the red and blue circular clipped cord for your Honda, then cut off the standard black and red clamps (again, near the clamps themselves), and repeat the process described in the previous paragraph, again noting that the wire leading to the red clamp is the positive (+) wire. This entire process should take you no more than 5-10 minutes. Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 20:02:02 -0600 (CST) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: Does an idling bike charge the battery?? On Sun, 23 Nov 1997 BikesByBMWNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > Please excuse the ignorance, but does an idling bike charge the battery or > does it have to be moving?? Depends on the bike. Airheads need to be revved up to about 2500 rpm before they are putting out any usefull wattage. K's and R11's have much stronger charging systems but are still probably not doing much more at idle than just holding their own. If you want usefull charging you still need to take it out and ride it for twenty minutes just to recoup the power you used starting it up. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net TBC NTCOF NTS K100RS MOA22753 IBMWR BMWDFW LSBMWR Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 23:05:03 -0500 From: Don Eilenberger Subject: RE?? BMW: Re: BMW K-Tech - Stuck Turn Signal >Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 19:03:47 -0500 >From: "Earle Bare" >Subject: BMW: Re: BMW K-Tech - Stuck Turn Signal > >The right turn signal gets stuck on and stays illuminated (not flashing) >even after the key is removed from the ignition switch. This has happened >on three different occasions, always the right turn signal. It fixed >itself the first time. I had to disconnect the battery or pull a fuse the >next two times. Does BMW use a relay for switching the turn signals? >Contact sticking? Any other ideas? Earl - I'll assume it was you who asked the above, but the subject line wasn't really clear. The K uses a much more complex device than a simple relay for the turnsignal.. it uses a little computer. It calculates time/distance* to tell itself when to turn the signal off automatically.. hence, it's prolly expensive. I'd suggest calling Eurotech and ask for one.. it will cost 1/2 of new - which is still prolly a lot. It is located at the left rear of the electrical box - which is located under the rear of your fuel tank.. you CAN get at it without tank removal.. Unclip (later than '85) or unscrew the fastening at the rear of your tank (if you have an '85 REMOVE THE SIDECOVERS FIRST!!.. you'll break them if you don't - I have a note on my bolt that tells me to do this - BTDT), slide it back about 2" and then lift the rear. Put a piece of 2x4 under the tank to hold it up.. and you can get at the cover of the electrical box. Don't drop any screws into the box (you may want to disconnect your battery..). Unscrew the relay, unplug and plug new one in. The reason I'm about 99.99% sure it's the relay is the fact that it stays on when you turn the ignition off. The ONLY function that is supposed to do that is the 4-way flashers (they won't turn on with the ignition off - but if turned on with the ignition off they continue to function when the ignition is turned off..). I suspect some of the electrons got confused and the latching circuit is latching when it isn't supposed to (ie - turn signal). Just checked mine - and there is no way I can get it to continue to operate when I turn the key off - even holding the right signal button while turning ignition off won't do it.. It's the relay. HTH! Don * = The time/distance/speed function is: It should cancel automatically after the bike has travelled a distance of 210 metres (689 feet) or a period of 10 seconds above 31MPH.. (from Haynes).. clever idea, too bad they didn't carry it over to the oilheads (it needs the electronic speedo to perform it's magic.. mebbe next year!) ======================================= Don Eilenberger Date: Fri, 12 Dec 1997 23:33:48 -0500 From: Brian Curry Subject: BMW: Additions to the HeadLight Relay Write-up When someone else attempts to follow your instructions, you find out what may be "common" for you, may be uncommon for others. The following is an addition to what is on the IBMWR Web page. Thanks to Alessandro Bruno for raising these issues and prompting some elaboration. ========================================================================== Getting a 12 Volt supply from the Starter relay: The start relay has two large contacts with bolted connections. The wires have red insulation. From memory, the rearmost connection, goes to the battery. Trace this to confirm it, BMW has been known to make changes. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. (This keeps down the sparks if you make a mistake and short something.) Remove the starter relay wiring bolt. Get a crimp connector that the bolt will fit through and that is properly sized for the wire. Crimp the connector on the wire. Bolt the Headlight relay wiring connector with the original connectors onto the relay. (I use some anti-seeze on this type of connection.) You now have 12 volts UN-FUSED available when you reconnect the battery negative. Fusing the 12V supply: I found my local auto parts store (Pep Boys) had a real nice "main fuse" holder rated at 30 amps. This should be installed in electrical box, in the wire going to the headlight relays. They also had a 30 amp self resetting "circuit breaker" with the same terminal type and spacing as the 30 amp rated fuse holder. IMO, this is a great application. Since getting to a fuse in the electrical box is a PITA, using a self resetting circuit breaker is a very good move. Or if you don't trust circuit breakers, use a fuse. They also make them in 30 amp ratings. This is plenty for the headlights and the size wire you are running. Headlights and Driving lights: If you will be powering both the headlight and driving lights, run two leads. That way if one shorts, you will not lose all the lights. Use colored wires: Use different color wires for different parts of the circuits. Otherwise you have lots of wires all the same color and no idea where they go. If you only have one color put wraps of tape on the wire ends. Different number of wraps on different wires. I suggest Red for the wire from the starter relay to the headlight relays. Then other colors from there. Relay mounting: Silicone rubber/caulk can be used to stick relays on the inside of fairing or any other panels. No more rattling. Velcro also works well. Then they are easier to take off the bike if it is sold. Don't let them flop around!! Relay numbering: If you use relays with contacts numbered in accordance with the German Industrial Standards (DIN) here is what the contact numbers mean: 85 Relay Coil 86 Relay Coil The control switch and ground/negative can go to either contact. 30 Relay Contact (Moveable) Normally connected to the Battery 87 Relay Contact Closed when energized 87a Relay Contact Closed when de-energized. While the 12V power lead can be connected to either contact, it is nice to follow the convention with the lead from the start relay connected to 30 and the headlight lead to 87. A lot of relays, even those made and used in the US, are starting to be DIN labeled, so even if you don't get it from BMW or another European car dealer, they may well be numbered. Look. If your relays are not labeled, you will have to spend some time with a meter figuring out what is what. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | To infuse moral concepts into a political discussion is simply to | | confuse the issue.... Morality is not involved in achieving policy. | | - William Fulbright 1959 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 00:35:08 -0800 From: Nancy Evelyn Gold Subject: Re: BMW: Valentine One I've decided that below the right mirror is the ideal location for the detector. It provides clear front and rear. I'm in the process of making a stand-off of sorts for the bottom of the mirror to attach either the detector to or a box with the detector in it. I've installed the remote display, audio control and my radio override already. Everything worked great when I tested it. - --- Nancy HARLOON wrote: > > Just sent my Valentine Radar Detector in for it's upgrade, and I just "closed" > on a brand new black R1100RT...iI', looking for advice on how to mount the > detector. > The Valentine needs to look front & rear so I had inunder the turn signal on > my Triumph, Saeng makes some good looking mounts, anyone try one? BTW I do > have the remote audio box Valentine sells. Any advice would be appreciated! > > Harlan > HarloonNoSpam@NoSpamAOL..om Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 12:24:17 -0800 From: Nancy Evelyn Gold Subject: Re: BMW: Valentine One Metal or large bags of water... :-) Radar does not penetrate bodies, wood, etc... There's also the consideration of the laser sensor. I have a boxthat fits very nicely around the detector with clear front and rear panels. (I might change to some IR transparent but otherwise opaque. It looks a little funny but will provide the best coverage. I working on a system to quick release the whole thing when I park. IMHO, if you spend the money for a V1 you should give the rear antenna a clear path. - --- Nancy Art Campbell wrote: > > No, how could you be? The fairing's plastic in both directions, front > and rear. Radar waves penetrate plastic and fiberglass. You only > need to make sure the antennas (front and rear) aren't blocked > by metal . . . > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 23:54:13 -0800 From: Mark Gensman Subject: Re: BMW: Valentine One Nancy Evelyn Gold wrote: > ----SNIP---- > Radar does not penetrate bodies, wood, etc... > > There's also the consideration of the laser sensor. > > I have a boxthat fits very nicely around the detector with clear > front and rear panels. (I might change to some IR transparent but > otherwise opaque. > > It looks a little funny but will provide the best coverage. I > working on a system to quick release the whole thing when I park. > > IMHO, if you spend the money for a V1 you should give the rear > antenna a clear path. > > --- Nancy > > Art Campbell wrote: > > > > No, how could you be? The fairing's plastic in both directions, front > > and rear. Radar waves penetrate plastic and fiberglass. You only > > need to make sure the antennas (front and rear) aren't blocked > > by metal . . . > > > > All I know is real world testing. I have had several cops come up behind me and the V1 picked them up way far away through my body. Also, try riding past one of those roadside radar speed indicators sometime. My V1 shows a front arrow for miles, a side arrow briefly as I drive past, and a rear arrow for miles. Through my body..I must admit I am mostly made up of cheap plastic. That must be it.. - -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 22:56:46 -0500 From: Brian Curry Subject: Re: BMW: Laser redux First, Tom please turn off the business card in Netscape. Not all of us need it. At 01:17 PM 12/22/97 -0800, Tom Tcimpidis wrote: >Without getting in to the relative merits of laser, there is one major factor >to consider: The method by which laser and radar measure speed are very >different. Radar measures speed directly by doppler. Or anything else that will modulate the signal. That is why a tuning fork "works". It amplitude modulates the signal, not frequency shifts it. Laser measures distance >directly and must then convert multiple distance measurements to speed. This >is how they were able to get a 4 MPH reading off a court room wall -- all you >have to do is move the gun a little while taking a reading on the wall and the >change in the slant distance will convert to a speed reading since the gun >sees a change in distance. And radar will do the same thing. It does not matter whether the reflector or the measuring device is moving. The indicated speed is/may be (There are ways to compensate for some stuff. It just takes money, and the manufacturers all want the business based on the lowest first bid.) difference between the two objects. How is this important in the real world? How stiffly is the device being held? If the >officer was taking a speed reading of your vehicle and the intial target point >(due to a slight mis-aim or whatever) was your windshield and the aim point >them subsequently shifted to, say, your license plate, the gun will see this >as a greater distance change and convert it to a higher than actual speed >indication. I have seen errors as high as 11 MPH because of this... Yup. From this I take it that you use one of these devices in a "professional capacity?" This >type of error can not happen with radar due to the different speed measuring >technique. That's the salient point. Different methods have different sources of errors. And each method has to be applied considering them. Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="vcard.vcf" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Content-Description: Card for Tom Tcimpidis >Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="vcard.vcf" > >Attachment Converted: d:\windows\internet\email\attach\vcard2.vcf > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ | To infuse moral concepts into a political discussion is simply to | | confuse the issue.... Morality is not involved in achieving policy. | | - William Fulbright 1959 | | | | Brian Curry, 1990 Blue K75RTs both coasts, Chester Springs, PA, USA | | SoD #23 | | | | KGN- Improving Lives Around The World | +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 06:50:03 -0500 From: Bob DeHaney Subject: BMW: K-Bike Alternators K75-K1200 According to my new K-Bike book all K Bikes except the K1100RS and K1200R= S have 12volt 460 watt alternators. The K1100 has 14 volt 700 watt and the= K1200 has a 14 volt 720 watt alternator. = Stock battery on the other K Bikes is 25 ah, but the K1100RS and K1200RS = have only 19ah hence the larger charging capacity. = Bob in Munich '94 K1100RS = Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:24:20 -0800 From: Tom Austin Subject: BMW: jump starting GS11 John Moore asked: If I carry the accessory plug/clips with me, can I attach them to someone's jumper cables and use them to jump start the bike if the battery runs down? Tom Austin responds: The accessory receptacle on all of the R11s is connected to the battery through a 15 amp fuse. That's enough to charge the battery, but it won't handle the much higher current draw required to jump start. The wiring isn't sufficient either, so forget about changing the fuse. Tom Austin Sacramento, CA 97 R1100RT 98 R1100GS Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:30:49 -0500 From: "Terence R. Evans, M.D." Subject: BMW: Mah Stereo... Re: Terry-Miami At 04:18 PM 1/20/98 +0900, Norman R. Solberg wrote: T-Mia: >OR could it have been my playing of LCM over my whomping >and pulsing UPgraded onboard stereo? >Who knows? >Who cares???? Apparently Norm-in-Japan does.. with a memorii better'n mine... : >Yaa, hey dere, that's all very well, Terry, but you long ago were crying >about not having a really great stereo, one that could really pound, and >you promised to post the results of your research to the list. Promises, Promises - was a B'way musical... ;-) >Never saw it! What gives? Ok, it's a whole long year - quick version: Kenwood 20wt/ch RMS amp; 4" Rockford Fosgate Punch speakers w 1 1/2" tweeters, X-overs etc. Lottsa visits to Radio Shack. - - Installed amp to tail piece where tools and BMW tyre repair kit once resided. - - Ran 14 gauge speaker wire to head unit (OEM sucky Clarion) - - Ran " " " " from there BACK to tail piece to connect to the 2 crossovers - needed all kinds of unanticipated crap to make this happen - - Ran 4 sets of wires back forward for the woofers and tweeters. - - Installed Tweeters next to '91 LT gas and temp guages which are mounted high on windshield dash. Almost eye/ear level. Clean. - - Speaker cone surround took some surgery to fit for OEM grill to mount flush. - - Crutchfield speaker baffles behind speakers. - - Purchased all types of shrink tubing and wire wraps for clean, unobtrusive installation.... Still in orig packaging. - - Started project Xmas holidays of '96 - finally broke down and did the install in May the night before the Ga Mountain Rally. Temporarily - just to see how it would hold up over a log trip - wires everywhere like spaghettii. - - Remains that way today. Got bored and was unimpressed at total sound. Findings: - - you get just so much out of 4" speakers out in the wind. - - if I hadda do it over again, I would have trashed the stock Clarion head unit for Brent's SONY or some more POWERFUL one that doesn't have so mant weak specs as this was trying to turn a lump of coal into a diamond. However, for whatever reason I cannot recall, I wanted Phactory. I got it - *slightly* better than Phactory sound :-( When I went to 'show off' at auto-audio dealer I bought most of this from - he was impressed but showed me a Rockford Fosgate 50!!!wt/ch RMS head unit that would slip riiight into the area and I could eliminate all that clutter, heat and spaghettii running up and down my frame and in my tail piece. This will only cost an additional $200. Maybe another night before GA Mtn Rally Spring Project... Budget when I got this bright idea: $100 Budget when I went the amp, woofer and tweeter route: $200 Final costs: Closer to $300 Overall sound improvement: ~15-20% :-( System still awaits tweaking and permanent installation. __________T_E_R_R_Y_____M_i_a_m_i____ From: R100MGB Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 16:26:27 EST To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Antennas and Mounts X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 16-bit for Windows sub 63 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: R100MGB X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Subj: Returned mail: Host unknown (Name server: worldstd.com: host not found) Date: 98-03-22 14:48:38 EST From: MAILER-DAEMONNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com (Mail Delivery Subsystem) To: R100MGBNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com The original message was received at Sun, 22 Mar 1998 14:44:13 -0500 (EST) from rootNoSpam@NoSpamlocalhost ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors ----- bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworldstd.com ----- Transcript of session follows ----- 550 bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworldstd.com... Host unknown (Name server: worldstd.com: host not found) ----- Original message follows ----- Received: from R100MGBNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com by imo19.mx.aol.com (IMOv13.ems) id 7EFRa07549; Sun, 22 Mar 1998 14:44:07 -0500 (EST) From: R100MGB Return-path: Message-ID: <5245283a.35156a0fNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com> Date: Sun, 22 Mar 1998 14:44:07 EST Re: Antennas and mounts. After conferring with radio experts who are also high-mileage riders, I've learned to rely on a company called C. Crane Company, which puts out a small mail-order catalog once a year. Since I'm willing to make a discreet (?) change in my bike's appearance to maximize CB range and clarity, I opted for a 3-foot "Firestick" fiberglass antenna ($15.95. Comes in black and white; my bike is black. You then have several mount options: I chose the trucker-type "mirror mount", which could be attached (horizontally or vertically) to a luggage rack, seat rail, etc.-- or even mounted on a vertical surface. $14.95. With that mount it wouldn't be hard to remnove the antenna (leaving mount in place)-- but they also make a "quick release mirror mount", which essentially clamps on, and comes off (declamps?) in the same manner. Crane's number is1-800-522-TUNE. By the way, it has just occurred to me that by mounting the antenna midway forward on the seat (i.e., on rider's backrest) you could actually stick it up...under the back of your jacket, for max discretion and only slightly muffled transmission/reception. :] Burt Perrault (Houston, TX) (78 BMW R100/7s; 80 Yamaha XS650 Special II; 80 Vespa 200; 78 MGB Roadster; 97 Mustang GT) "Talk may be cheap, but it pays my bills." X-Sender: "Jcook" Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 07:20:59 -0400 To: Phil Space , bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: "Jerry Cook" Subject: Re: BMW: Autocom problems Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "Jerry Cook" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). I have the same problem with the AUTOCOM and a HANDHELD Midland 820 CB radio. I have been given the same blab about ground lops from the "Experts" at TOP GEAR in new york. they seem to be the importer in the USA. Ground Loops or whatever the problem is, Im not holding my breath any longer for a solution from Autocom. It has been months and months.. a few weeks ago i called top gear and asked about progress on the fix for the handheld portables. I was told basically to go get another radio that was not the small handheld type that required batteries of a power cord. They told me that I could make the system work properly if i went to Radio shack and purchased a regular CB radio (cigar box sized). I said "Thats huge and wont fit on my bike", I was assured that the units were small and that I could cut-up my R11RT fairing to install the CB radio. I SAID $%$%&^&&*&(&((^^$NoSpam@NoSpam$%$NoSpam@NoSpam.......!!! I was invited to send an e-mail to autocom. I did! two weeks later no answer so I sent another e-mail The reply tried to address a minor problem with speaker sound but ignored the CB squeal part of the problem. So OVERALL I am not happy with AUTOCOM. I only bought it because I wanted to integrate everything I had into one system. I already had the Midland 820 CB radio and the BMW Bike radio. I told the Top gear folks that I had the 820 CB radio and they said they had the proper cable for it. The Top Gear folks did not mention the problem with the power adapter until after i had all of the stuff installed (and not working right) So I have been running on "AA" batteries. It works but it does cause some problems when the batteries get low. I spoke with Midland and there might be some interest in developing a motorcycle sound system but who knows!. I mailed them my ideas on what a system should be capable of and how it should perform. >Does anybody have an autocom connected to a CB radio that works properly >when the CB is running on bike power (accessory connector or whatever)? > >I have been told by my dealer that I have to use batteries because of a >"ground loop" problem. I think I know how to fix it, but it would be >easier to use a different CB than mess with the power supply. > >Thanks. > >Phil Space, DINA, Inc. >2070 Chain Br. Rd., Suite 370 Vienna, VA USA 22182 >V(703) 734-6844 F(703) 734-6850 >AMA, BMWMOA, BMWRA, BMWBMW - 90 K75, 97 R1100RT Date: Thu, 16 Apr 1998 23:27:24 -0600 From: "James R. Breed" X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-SBXA (Win95; I) To: kenroggNoSpam@NoSpamsound.net, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Bass Monsters are in! Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: "James R. Breed" X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). I ordered some bass monster speakers from Rider Wearhouse and put them in my Shoei. It took about 45 minutes but it really fudged up my soldering iron burning away the styrofoam at the ears. Bad news is that the Anonymous says I'm an outlaw in Mass and RI. Think about it. The commonwealth that gave us Senator Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea says that I can't ride with helmet speakers. Oh well, I can always put on my spare passenger beanie. Its much safer than the Shoei with speakers. I guess I'll just have to forego all those nifty rides I've read about it Rhode Island too. Jimbo in KC K75 From: EsquireTed Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 15:35:41 EDT To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamlists.ibmwr.org Subject: BMW: K-Alternator drive goobers, was Electrical Problem on a K100RS X-Mailer: Casablanca - Windows sub 168 Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: EsquireTed X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). Hello All, If you are contemplating this procedure, I wrote up a tech article on the procedure with part #'s, etc., accessible off of the IBMWR K-Tech page, http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.html Fixing this early will save you big bucks. When I got mine apart I discovered one of the fins had broken and another was cracked. Plus, the bushings had gotten soft and one set had turned to a fudge-like consistency. This is an easy job, just takes some patience and time. There are a few other things that could be replaced (preventative measures :) while in there as well. BTW, I didn't find putting the newly renewed alternator back in to be much of a problem. ~~~~~~~~~ http://users.aol.com/esquireted/moto.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Ted Verrill - EsquireTedNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com - TedVNoSpam@NoSpamFool.com - K1100RS (Zephyr) Washington DC, USA - HOYA JD '94 - Rolling Broccoli Rider IBMWR - BMWBMW - BMWMOA - BMWRA - GG#3 - SoD#7 BMWBMW Newsletter Editor, "Between The Spokes" ~(c)1998~~~~~~~~~ Visit http://www.bmwbmw.org ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From: thundt David A has directions on using a detachable faceplate stereo on his K12, at http://www.erols.com/abura/.