From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat May 24 12:14:29 1997 Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 07:53:50 -0700 From: Jim Larsen Organization: Larsen Aviation Services To: blyskowskiNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com Cc: bmw-techNoSpam@NoSpamroadkill.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: Re: Tank Cover / Tank Bag References: <19970522.082648.8719.1.blyskowskiNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com> Reply-To: Jim Larsen blyskowskiNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com wrote: > > My tank bag was rubbing the paint a little and I was afraid that over > time it and the straps would damage the paint. I have an RKA bag. > Biggest possible that will fit on My R1100R. > > I found some clear plastic sheet. This is 16 Gauge nylon that you can > get in many fabric stores. $3.59 for a 3' by 5' piece. It formed > fairly well to the tank although it was a pain to get the edges to stay > down in a few spots. The R11R has some major compound curves to it. > The plastic has stayed in place for two weeks now but I have not had it > out in the rain much and have not used it without the bag at speed. I > think I may have to put it on in pieces instead of one large sheet. It looks kind of funny when the bag is not on but it is not bad. It > looks like it will take a lot of abuse. I don't know how long it will > stay on or if it will cause any problems on the paint. Any ideas? > > What I really wanted was some sort of self gluing sheet that had a > waterproof glue that would not damage the paint and would be easily > removable but would stay for at least a year of weather. Any Ideas. > It looks like a sheet 18" x 36" would do the trick. Smaller pieces > would probably be easier to put on though. > > "Democracy is three wolves and a sheep deciding who is for lunch" > > ************************************************ > Connecticut Bob > '86 XLH 883 w/93k and on hold > '88 FLST w/75k - gone but not forgotten > '91 FLHS - the COUCH w/170k and counting and counting ..... > '96 R1100R w/4k - A tough bike for a technophobe, but I'm getting used to > it. > ************************************************* Bob, Try some 3M No. 471 Plastic Film Abrasion Tape. I don't know how wide you can buy it but I used to buy it in 2" wide rolls as abrasion tape for some helicopter tail rotors. I used both clear and red. It comes in about 12 colors. It's not expensive and withstands most solvents except ketones, chlorinated hydrocarbons and esters. It would stay on a tail rotor blade in the rain but at 120 degrees F it would start to slide to the outside of the blade. Bear in mind that the tail rotor blade was spinning a lot faster than your stationary tank. I use it now for abrasion protection of whatever I need protected. It should work on your tank's compound curves. To remove it you carefully peel it off and use 3M's Adhesive Remover to remove any excess. I use a #602 (not 3M) Stainless Steel Tape now to protect areas of the main and tail rotor blades that are not protected. If you were SF Bob instead of Connecticut Bob I could give you some of the 471 to try. Take care! Jim Larsen K100RT & K100RS SF Bay Area From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu May 29 17:45:46 1997 From: "thebleys" To: "David C.C. Sprague" , Subject: BMW: Re: Shining up saddlebags. Date: Thu, 29 May 1997 17:06:06 -0400 X-Priority: 3 Reply-To: "thebleys" I ride with a gent who owns a body shop. He used SEMS plastic prep and then painted the glossy black bags on my (former) R1100GS with regular glossy black acrylic enamel. Looked great. Rick Bley, AHRMA # 90E/907, MX and Trials rider 1972 CZ 125, 1974 CZ 400, 1964 CZ 175 Trials. BMWMOA/RA, IBMWR, AMA. 1974 BMW R90S, 1980 Ducati Darmah SS (for sale $4,950.) Hickory (western North Carolina) ---------- > From: David C.C. Sprague > To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com > Subject: BMW: Shining up saddlebags. > Date: Thursday, May 29, 1997 8:50 AM > > > I was wondering how one would go about refinishing or cleaning up some > glossy saddlebags for the bike. These saddlebags have tons of scratches > and such on them. Should I repaint, cover, or use a magic marker :-)? > > Thanks for the input in advance. > > David Sprague, dspragueNoSpam@NoSpambga.com > 1994 R1100RS "The Cops Don't Even Bother With Me Red" > Ham N5RX From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Fri May 30 06:53:07 1997 From: BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 06:35:16 -0400 (EDT) To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Subject: BMW: re:vibrating mirror solution Reply-To: BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Regarding the vibrating mirrors on the R-RT's, this is something that worked for me: Remove the mirror from the bike and turn it upside down, drill a hole in the bottom side of the mirror "plastic". (stay with me here) Now warm your tube of silicone, (I put mine in a pan of hot water) until its nice and soft, now squirt as much as you can into the hole, fill it to the rim. Thats it, instant cure. Now if thats too technical or too much work....... cut the tip end of a plastic tie and wedge it between the glass and frame, its not real elegant but it works. Just don't tell anybody I told you. Good luck. Hans.....BMWmc dude .....St.Petersburg FL From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Sat May 31 03:43:11 1997 Date: Fri, 30 May 1997 23:07:39 -0700 From: Sam Lepore To: BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Cc: Internet BMW Riders Subject: Re: BMW: re:vibrating mirror solution Reply-To: Sam Lepore BMWmcdudeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com wrote: > > tube of silicone, (I put mine in a pan of hot water) until its nice and soft, > now squirt as much as you can into the hole, fill it to the rim. Thats it, SAVE THE SILICONE. Just like with certain, um, implants, you may not need that much to get visual cosmetic improvements! I got perfectly satisfactory results by laying a thin trim of silicone around the outside edge of the mirror, just like using caulk on a window. ______________________________________________________ Sam Lepore, San Francisco, 1988 R100RT and 1995 K75RTA From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Tue Jun 3 00:44:16 1997 To: bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From: Court Fisher Subject: BMW: Re:"Stealth" windscreen trim Cc: Tim Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 04:10:09 +0000 Reply-To: Court Fisher >Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 23:22:47 +0000 >From: Tim >Subject: BMW: "Stealth" windscreen trim from where please? >I saw a while back a mention of some windscreen trim that replaced the >std stuff and gave some improvements in wind buffeting? > >Any idea if this stuff is available in the UK, and if not would it be >worth the trouble getting it shipped from the USA please? > >(I suffer from buffeting/noise even with a +4" screen on the RT) >T i m (Nth London) >- -- >TimNoSpam@NoSpamstarmail.mhs.compuserve.com 91 R100RT >G7ICWNoSpam@NoSpamGB7HSN.#32.GBR.EU Messerschmitt KR200 >TimSNoSpam@NoSpamnetcomuk.co.uk "Enfield" Electric Moke >------------------------------ Tim, you're probably referring to the 'Stealth' edging designed & sold by SAENG/TA Corp, Columbus Nebraska USA. No UK importer to my knowledge. Website at www.saeng.com; email ; fax +1/402-562-6777, tel +1/402-563-3444 (US tollfree 800-868-7464). Effectiveness of Stealth edging depends a lot on your individual 'ergonomics', i.e., how far above edge of your current screen your helmet rides, etc. It definately works under some conditions, but not others. You might want to email, fax, or tel them to describe your particular dimensions before committing--they're very straight forward and concerned with customer satisfaction. Court Fisher Princeton NJ/USA all the usual suspect acronyms court.fisherNoSpam@NoSpamworldnet.att.net. From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Thu Jun 19 14:10:13 1997 From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com To: CMcdougalNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 07:36:30 MDT Subject: Re: BMW: Windsheild hight. Reply-To: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Addressed to: CMcdougalNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ** Reply to note from CMcdougalNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Mon, 16 Jun 1997 23:29:51 -0400 (EDT) > Well as some of you know, I put my dreaded Windjammer 3 fairing back on my > R75...and you know, I think I am going to like it just fine. I hate looking > through the windshield though, and I remember someone saying that the proper > hight for a windshield is so that you can see over it when you ride. > Does anyone make windsheilds for this fairing, and if so in different hights? > Should I just leave it alone? Should I have mine cut down? Can I buy another > shorter one? What do ya think prezzes and airheads? > T I just put the Luftmeister (same shape as Windjammer, don't know about the vents) back on the /7 too. Got a new windshield from my dealer. He special orders from an outfit called ClearView. I believe they're in Brighton, CO, but I'm not sure. Mine cost about $85. Don't know about shorter than standard heights. For the Luftmeister, ClearVu lists a standard height and a +2"l. Call Foothills Cycle in Denver (303-202-1400) and ask about ClearVu. Alternatively, take your old windshield to practically any plastics shop as a pattern and have them make you a new one. It's just flat plexiglass cut to shape with some holes. Or, just either have yours cut down, or cut it down yourself, and smooth the edges with sandpaper. Ask others on the list how best to cut it w/o breaking it; I haven't done it personally. If you want a usable windshield to cut down or use as a spare, you can have my old one cheap. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "I don't know just how long I'll be gone, But I'll be back when I run out of road." - John Brannen From ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Wed Jun 25 21:35:47 1997 From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com To: HLWinfreeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com, bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 14:40:27 MDT Subject: Re: BMW: seat recover/repair R-65 Reply-To: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Addressed to: HLWinfreeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com ** Reply to note from HLWinfreeNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Wed, 25 Jun 1997 17:15:28 -0400 (EDT) > Have a R-65 in need of stock seat repair/recover. Remember recent traffic of > someone in Orlando, Fl USA who does same. Would appreciate his name/contact > specifics should someone recall, by e-mail to HLWinfreeNoSpam@NoSpamAOL.com. Save yourself the shipping cost. A town of any size should have one or more auto upholstery shops that can do the work locally. Upholstery, whether for an auto, a bike, a boat, or a sofa, ain't rocket science. Most have done several motorcycle seats before you arrive on their doorstep.I've had at least six motorcycle seats recovered by different auto upholstery shops from time to time. All did excellent quality work. Pick one the same way you'd pick any service supplier. Ask around who does good work, ask the shop if they do that kind of work, make them convince you they can do the quality work you expect. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "It may be that your sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others." From proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:59:00 -0400 (EDT) From: proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Subject: BMW: New Style Tank Emblems for all! Ken, Go to your BMW dealer and have them look up the part# for the emblems that come on the K1200RS and the R1200C. These are the same size as the ones on your wife's R1100R and are of the best emblems since the closinne emblems that came on most R90S's!! There are a couple of small plastic tabs that need to be cut off before installation, but that is no big deal. I don't know the price, but I'll guess around $18.00/each. For R1100RSL's and RT's use the same emblem that is found on the RT trunk. PN# 51 14 8 164 924. These cost about $16.00. Good Luck, Phactory Phil aka Phil Rose proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com _______________________________________________________________________________ The roundels on the tank of my wife's 1995 R1100R seem to be delaminating -- i.e., a clear layer is peeling off. I remember seeing a discussion of somehting like this a while ago, but not owning an R1100R at the time, didn't save any of the information. Is this a known problem? Have others encountered it and gotten the emblems replaced under warranty? Thanks for any help you can give. Ken Gluckman gluckmanNoSpam@NoSpamchrysler.geis.com From bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 09:08:59 EST From: bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Subject: re: BMW: Installing "grommets" Addressed to: Flash - DoD #412 bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com armadiloNoSpam@NoSpameden.com ** Reply to note from Flash - DoD #412 Tue, 26 Aug 1997 11:31:14 -0400 (EDT) > Special tool? Yes. DENTAL FLOSS. > Method: Run a few wraps of floss around the notch in the grommet. > Grease it up with some ArmorAll or SonOfAGnu. Press it to the hole > after threading the floss through. Then "work it" until you're > finished. Hot damn! That's TWO uses for dental floss as a BMW bike repair tool that I'm now aware of (The other one, removing tank roundels by using it to saw it thru the adhesive backing). Gosh, pretty soon and it's gonna be a must have item in this coming winter's "What have you got in your tankbag/toolkit?" thread. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "Never annoy anything that you can't outrun!" From Ben1364NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 06:30:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Re: platers? As an alternative to plating (in certain cases) you might consider JetHot Coatings. I have been most pleased with their work on some 2002 parts, including exhaust parts. They can give quick turn-around and do beautiful work in several colors including polished aluminum (very near Chrome). Finnish will withstand heat and lasts very well. Ben White/Biloxi From proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:15:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: BMW: Platers? Yes! Fred, You could also try International Chromium Platers in Providence, Rhode Island. They do outstanding work and contatry to popular opinion they do not lose parts and they stand by their work 100%!! In addition to outstanding chrome work they also do clear cadmium, nickel, black zinc and a host of others. Call the number below and ask for Jean or Joe Ferguson. Tell them I sent ya! They are used to doing motorcycle stuff and will do mail order. They will also do exhaust parts (headers) but may shy away from *used* mufflers for obvious reasons. I can't recommend them highly enough! International Chromium Platers 2 Addison Place Providence, RI 401-421-0205 or 401-421-0475 401-273-9507 FAX Cheers, Phactory Phil aka Phil Rose proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com From Robert Taylor Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 17:36:30 -0700 Subject: BMW: BMW : mirror leash. Due to overwelming demand I have laboriously typed out these instructions to install mirror leashes. I'll say this to start> I recieved one message that said you can buy a leash kit from BOB's bmw. How much I can't say, Like the sender of that info, I prefer to make things my self. If any of you remember my helmet cable and jacket cable lock posting I wrote sometime back, I had a couple responses. One saying they could buy the same thing at a bicycle store. How ingenuous. Anyhow.... To get started I'll answer a question. The Side view mirrors are held on by spring clips that snap on to bolts atatched to the bike. These are much harder to get on than to inadvertently knock off. This type of mirror is found on K1100RS, RT? and LT and I'm not sure what other models.<<< There is a simple test>>>>>:) First go to a sporting goods or fishing tackle store and purchase a small spool of "wire leader" and the appropriate sleeves to crimp the wire. You will also need 2 snap swivals.You'll have enough leader to do about 50 bikes. The shortest length I could find was 30 ft. I used 90# (41kg) stainless steel wire and 2 medium sized snap swivals. You DO NOT NEED TO buy the crimping tool for the wire leader. what your doing doesn't require the extra expense. Pliers will work fine. Just test all the crimps. All the parts cost me about 6.00$. 2. With the bike on the centre stand grasp the mirror and push forward. I should just snap off. (remove both). Remove the trim piece between the tank and the faring. Take loose the plastic piece that holds the fuel gauge and the coolant temp. You do not need to remove these completely you just need to get access to the nuts that hold the mirror mounts on(self locking nuts). Decide wich mounting bolt you wish to secure one end of the leash to and loosen it(do both sides). I used the lower of the three. 3. Go to fridge, get cold beer. It's time for a break. 4. Now that your well rested and refreshed, take out the leader line and cut two pieces about 3 inches long. (thats 8cm for you metric people) Slide two sleeves on the wire make an eye in both ends and crimp the sleeves. Ensure one of the eye's is large enough to fit over the bolt head you loosened earlier. Now put one of the eyes over the bolt head and tighten them up. You can put everything else back on the bike now. (Except the mirrors) 5. 'Bout time for another beer. 6. Now cut two more pieces of leader. I was happy the way things turned out with about 6 inches, of wire that is. Slide a sleeve on the wire, run that same end through the swivel eye of a snap swivle then back into the sleeve and crimp it(do both). This next part requires a little manual dexterity. Pick up one of the mirrors. Take the bare end of the wire and slide a sleeve over the end, feed the wire into the mirror and loop it around the metal cross peice. (some discription aye) you'll see what I'm talking about when you look inside the mirror housing. slide the end into the sleeve pull out the slack and crimp it. Do the other side and your almost done. 7. Connect the snap swivel to the eye in the other wire. Give the wire a couple good tugs to make sure all the crimps hold. Conect the turn signal wire and put the mirror back on and you are finished. Any questions I'm just an e-mail away. Rob Taylor Leesburg VA. K1100RS From bkeaheyNoSpam@NoSpamuswest.com Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:37:34 EST Subject: Re: BMW: R65 Tank, and a cool ride on Oahu Addressed to: Distribution list (see below) ** Reply to note from BOBBY HOUSTON Sat, 13 Sep 1997 03:08:40 -0700 > rmilligan wrote: > > Hey, > I'm new to this, so Ill keep it short. > Oh yeah, the otherpart of the subject. My fuel tank sat around for a > long time before I became the owner, so it isnt in terribly good shape on > the inside. I want to replace it, but the dealer is asking $600.00 plus > for the thing. Anyone have any fuel tanks laying around they might want > to part > with, or any leads on one. Any help would be appreciated. Feel > free to email me directly. Aloha!!! > > Reid Milligan Hey, bout your fuel tank, if the corrossion is not too severe, repair may be simple. > ...buy several packs of bb's or some steel shot. >...add the shot to the insides. Cap 'er off. >...shake the livin' shit (quite literally in your case) out of it. >This would be a good point to decide if > you want to install a product called CREAME. It is a fuel tank interior > coating intended for m/c's. Unless your tank is REALLY rusty, you can skip the BBs and just go with the KREEM (I think that's how it's spelled, but not sure). I've done two tanks on restorations I've done in the past few years. If the tank is really rusty and/or BMW's red primer coating on the inside is pretty intact, you can leave Prep A solution in longer, up to 3 days if necessary; it'll be bare grey metal by then fer sure; the old primer coating will float off in sheets as the acid step works its way under it. Be careful with the KREEM. All three steps involve nasty, toxic stuff. Don't get it on any exterior paint unless you don't want to remove it. Don't get it on yourself or in your eyes. Don't breathe it. Down just dump the acid down the drain w/o neutralizing it first. I really fault the KREEM instructions for failing to deal with how to dispose of the stuff. But it's good stuff. Bruce G. Keahey, U S WEST Advanced Technologies, Boulder, CO "Remember, evolution is smarter than you are." Distribution list: BOBBY HOUSTON BOBBY HOUSTON rmilligan bmwmcNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com From Clarence Dold Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:33:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: BMW: Re: Bent rim :-( > No other apparent damage except one side of the front rim - the "lip" if > you will - is bent outward. I've tested and the wheel is true. Can it be > straightened?? Some alloys break when you try to straighten, but I have > seen references to soft rims here. The Frame Man, Sacramento California, straightens frames and wheels for motorcycle racers. 916-927-9712 He does occasionally return a wheel as unrepairable, but not often, and these are after some pretty hard impacts ;-( - -- - --- Clarence A Dold - doldNoSpam@NoSpamnetwork.rahul.net - Pope Valley & Napa CA. From WireWheelsNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 00:41:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: BMW: Re: Bent rim :-( >> No other apparent damage except one side of the front rim - the "lip" if >> you will - is bent outward. I've tested and the wheel is true. Can it be >> straightened?? Some alloys break when you try to straighten, but I have >> seen references to soft rims here. Prez Clarence sez in re to? >The Frame Man, Sacramento California, straightens frames and wheels for >motorcycle racers. 916-927-9712 >He does occasionally return a wheel as unrepairable, but not often, and >these are after some pretty hard impacts ;-( I'd sure like to meet the Frame Man and swap stories with him as you really have to have a love for perfect wheels to indulge in this endeavor. If your on the west coast I'd advise trying him if you have a wheel fault and need a quick fix because UPS ground is 5 days from CA to me, then the return trip. I don't know what his turn around time is. One or two days on my end. Last I heard he charges $75 flat. Quite fair as a good job requires much rechecking with the dial indicators. I charge by the hour with a 1 hour minimum. I charged $40 for the wheel I shipped today. I put it within .010" on each bead. I also have the stock Wurth wheel paint if needed for a new look. I do about three BMW wheels per week and have only refused older wheels that were cracked on impact as I don't do the TIG welding needed for those cases, but... I'll give $50 for your old wheel on a new one if you'd like that, same as Bob's BMW offers. Visit my webpage to see some impossible wheels that came into specs after some patience. This sure sounds like phlagrant commercialism to me but it's been a long time since I've let newcomers in on my facts re: BMW wheels. I'd better stop now and put another quart into my LT that just turned 6k... it's oil changing time for Fontana. I thank you all for your continued support. _______________________________________________ Tim(Bondo)Bond 606-873-6686 3455 Oregon Rd Wire Wheels MC Svc Versailles, KY 40383 http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/WireWheels WireWheelsNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com WireWheelsNoSpam@NoSpamaol.com _______________________________________________ From Craig Vechorik Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 13:21:17 Subject: Re: BMW: Kreeming a Tank At 12:26 PM 9/22/97 -0500, you wrote: > >In my slow-but-sure prettying-up of the R50/2, I find myself at the fuel >tank. It had spider-webbed paint that was VERY dull, and seemed to be >the perfect sub-task as I attached the sidecar. I've blasted the old paint >and bondo off, re-filled the minor exterior dings, and primed it. I also >completely cleaned the inside, and am ready to Kreem it. I have all three >parts of the Kreem kit, and have properly prepped the inside of the tank, >per the instructions, prior to the use of the kit chemicals. Now the >question: > >The R50/2 tank has four "openings" to be closed off prior to Kreeming. >The filler neck is no problem, and neither is the petcock outlet (now >corked tightly). My concern is the two cross-overs at the rear which >keep the two sides relatively level with fuel. They are small (1/8") >diameter tubes. The come out of the tank and make a 90 degree inward >toward each other. How do I plug/seal these at the tank? One way to do it is: Take a piece of nylon cord, (melt each end with a lighter, so there will be no frayed ends) which will fit fairly easily into the tube, grease it with a bit of wheel bearing grease at both ends, slide it through a short piece of old fuel line, (make sure the cord is longer than the hose) shove each cord end into the metal line, and shove the fuel line over the outside of the metal line. When the tank coat is dry, and you pull off the hose, he greased cord will not adhere to the tank coat, and will leave the passageway open enough for fuel transfer from side to side. Also, If the tank is painted, you do not want ANY of the etchant solution, MEK solvent, or the tank coat on the paint, or it will EAT the paint finish, causing you to repaint the whole thing. One easy way around that problem is to smear the ENTIRE outside of he tank with a HEAVY coat of wheel bearing grease. If you spill any, (and you will during sloshing) it will not get to the paint, due to the wheel bearing grease coating. After the tank coat is dry, wipe off the wheel bearing grease, and use dish washing liquid and water to remove the traces of grease. >If I plug them >at the end, they'll fill with Kreem and seal. I can't reach them through the >filler neck, as the sides narrow due to the frame hump allowance. Any >suggestions??? > >Since I know Jim Colburn is lurking, and I've used Kreem, openings, >(pet)cock, corked, and hump all in the same posting, I'll file his response >in my Special Folder :-) , and expect some technical thought from >Someone out there. Vetch???? Rob??? Jon??? Anyone??? > hope this helps. > >TIA >Chuck Lanczkowski >'91 K75RTA >'66 R50/2 > > Craig Vechorik "Bench Mark Works" http://members.aol.com/VechBMW/index.html From medvac Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:22:51 -0400 Subject: Re: BMW: Kreeming a Tank To Kreem the tank and not plug the crossover tubes you could slip a small Tygon tube into each crossover tube. Wipe the tubes with silicon first to act as a mold release. Tape the ends of the crossover tubes closed. After the Kreem has set up pull the tubes out and let the Kreem harden completely. You could also pack the crossover tubes with styrofoam, which will dissolve in gasoline, but it would have to stand up to Kreem and the residue will go into your carbs. This is a variation of the lost wax process. Good luck, Dick Malsbury Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 13:47:56 From: Craig Vechorik Subject: Re: BMW:/2 gas tank repairs Anthony: At 01:30 PM 10/10/97 -0400, you wrote: > >Hi Prezzes, > >I just got my frame and sheetmetal parts back from the sandblaster, and I noticed that my gas tank has a few small holes in it, caused by corrosion. The holes are in the upper tool box of my /2 sport tank. Anyone know of an effective method to repair these without a flame? The best non flame method is to get a copper bar, old time soldering iron, that used to be used to solder gutters and copper pipes together. You use either a oven, or a torch to heat the large copper head. It head holds the heat long enough to allow you to solder pin holes in a tank up, without fear of explosion. Get the spot to be soldered very clean, and use liberal amounts of soldering paste, and an old copper iron. I've done it before, and it works the best. Epoxy type fixes usually will seep, and fall out. they are a best a temporary thing. Date: Fri, 05 Dec 1997 15:29:35 From: Dave Thompson Subject: Re: BMW: Aux Fuel Tank mounting At 10:20 AM 12/5/97 EST, you wrote: > >A friend of mine has developed a leak on his K100 '86.....any suggestion >about what can be done to fix it....We are hoping that we will not have to get >him a new tank....Thanks for any advice.. > Ken... You don't say where the leak is. My '85 K100 decided to start leaking (weeping) around the rear mounting bracket. I couldn't find the source. I cleaned the paint off around all the openings involving the rear mount, and JB Welded the whole area. I tried to fill as much of the area between the bracket and tank as I could. I used one complete package of JB Weld. So far, so good. I don't think it will leak again, unless the bracket itself is coming away from the tank...and I don't think that was the case. BTW...I also ran a bead of JB Weld along the rear lower inside seam of the tank. Obviously, I removed the tank from the bike, and the gas cap assembly from the tank, emptied it, and let it dry completely before I tried to work on it! And, I RTFM about JB Weld prior to starting. YMMV - all disclaimers apply. Cheers, Dave T. '85 K100 (But I don't whine!) ***From Beautiful Berwick, Nova Scotia*** GOB #14 *** The Apple Capital of the World *** Date: Sun, 12 Apr 1998 00:25:46 -0400 From: Joe Katz Subject: BMW: Paint To: Steve Cc: bmwmc Sender: ibmwrNoSpam@NoSpamworld.std.com Reply-To: Joe Katz X-No-Archive: yes X-Bmw-List: Majordomo 1.94.3 X-Web-Page: http://www.ibmwr.org/ X-Copyright: (c) IBMWR and the original author(s). X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by brooklyn.slack.net id BAA20172 Steve and List: Best source for paint: Professional auto paint supply that carries "Glasurit" by brand name. BMWNA no longer stocks paint. Joe Katz, retired wrench, joekatz1NoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com DeLand, Florida ----------------------------------------------------- The secret -- lies in knowing what good work is, and being willing to take the pains to do it that way. Lucien Cary