From Craig Vechorik Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 10:44:34 Subject: BMW: R11 - R12 - R16 - R17 oil filters For what it's worth: The oil filters on the 1929 - 40 twins were of the bypass type, a rolled/crimped sheet metal can, that had a central hole in the top. the filter sat inside the oil sump, on a brass tube, that branched from the main oil gallery. There was also a second small hole in the top, from which the filtered oil left the filter, to fall back into the sump. Below this "soup can" was a spring that held it up, off of the access cover, on the bottom of the engine. Needless to say, they are no longer available. I have cooked up a new design, which uses a modern, spin on filter from a Honda GL1500 filter. This Honda filter will screw on to an adapter plate, which will mount on the branch tube of the oil gallery. the filter assembly will also (hopefully) incorporate big, donut shaped, flat magnet, from the magnetic base of an auto CB antenna. I plan on mounting the magnet on the inside of the access cover, and the height should work out just right, to hold the filter up on the tube. Needless to stay, I'm getting the adapter plate machined today. I've figured out that the GL1500 filter uses a 20mm x 1.5 threaded spigot. And... The local auto parts place has 20mm x 1.5 thread drain plugs for automobile oil pans. You can see where this is going, can't you? I'll keep ya'll posted as to the progress/success of this, and I will scan and post photos of the completed unit at my web page. If this works, I'm going to produce a small quanity of these for Vintage owners, and sell them. Comments? Craig Vechorik "Bench Mark Works" From viper655NoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com (Dr.Robert A. Harms) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:09:20 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: BMW: /2 steering head bearings You wrote: > > >Hello- > >Does anyone know the dimensions of the /2 steering head bearings? If >anyone has a set of the tapered bearings used in the conversion from >ball-type bearings, I'd also appreciate knowing the numbers engraved >on those bearing as well as the manufacturer. > >Thanks in advance for your help. > >Steve Ross > These bearings have the races cut so there isnt a direct replacement but these are cheap from Bobs, Blue Moon etc. Doc Date: Mon, 29 Sep 1997 16:21:31 -0700 From: Mark Ketchum Subject: Re: BMW: Oil in carbs Skipper Brown wrote: > >In the past there was a long discussion about putting copper mesh / pan >scrubber / "Chore Girl" in the crankcase vent tube. > >I know I can vent through the airbox and just let it drip out the back... I >want to recover it. > >I need directions - how much - etc. > The tidy way to recover vented oil is with a fluid-condenser and recirculation tube system, like I have on my '78 R100. No drips, no soiled carbs, no puke tank, just oil recirculated back into the crank case. See the (marginal) photo of mine at: http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum/motopix/konnie-574x862.JPG Mine was made by Fritz Scherb, who has a shop outside of Munich. If you are interested, I'll dig up his address / tel. Regards, _____________________________________ Mark A. Ketchum http://www.hooked.net/~mketchum Berkeley & San Francisco, California Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 09:03:43 From: Craig Vechorik Subject: Re: BMW: Electronic ignition conversion?? Phil: At 04:40 PM 9/29/97 -0800, you wrote: > >I have a R75/6. I have just spent a very frustrating hour or two trying >to set the points and time the machine. Clever of those Germans to have >hidden the adjustments and the points behind the centriigal advance just >enough to make fat fingered access almost impossible while still showing >enough of the points to make it seem possible. > >Is there any way to convert this bike to electronic ignition? A friend >of a friend claims to have dont this with an older Triumpth with >outstanding results. Yep. Buy a Dyna III made for /6 BMW's and install it. It will be trouble free forever, or until the electronic ignition fails, which ever comes first. Seriously, it is the way to go, I have installed at least a dozen on friends bikes, and they are, for the most part, trouble free for many, many years. > >Any advice appreciated. > >Phill in Friday Harbor > > Craig Vechorik "Bench Mark Works" http://members.aol.com/VechBMW/index.html Date: Tue, 30 Sep 1997 09:11:08 -0600 From: Eric VanDenHoek Subject: BMW: My first 'R' experience. OK, I'll set the stage. I had to cage it to Col. Springs last week to be "presentable" - trying to get a new job. Anyhow, Thurs night presented an interesting situation. The Pikes Peak club meets weekly for a "pie run" down to Florence, Co. I arrive with Jim VanRiper to see whats going on, as soon as I arrive, Jeff Eckert presents me with an option to go pick up a bike - like I'm going to turn that down! So after trying to push start the Guzzi(he has too many bikes to keep the batteries charged-rough huh?) I accept the key to his 1966 /2. Strapped on a helmet, threw on my "Mr. American" leather coat, and straddled the bike. A little different than my K! As we progress south through town, I become aware of some "quirks" of a R. It just doesn't have the power /throttle response that I'm used to and the brakes take some getting used to. On the way down, I was initially just cruising to get used to the bike. About twenty miles later, I found myself smiln'! It's a different world -but it's still a BMW. On the return trip, I found myself planning where to pass, and nearly hitting 90mph. He told me I could wind it up a bit!! Final thoughts, I would like to find myself an older R - just for cruisin'. Oh yeah- the pie was good - and I didn't get pulled over like eight other did!!! Eric VanDenHoek '85 BMW K100RS President - Black Hills BMW Riders Club #203 IBMWR President / BMWMOA # 74038 / MSF Instructor BOYZ- Brotherhood of Young Zen http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/5029/ Date: Wed, 01 Oct 1997 07:26:15 -0600 From: Steve Aikens Subject: Re: BMW: R50/5 with no go Ryan Shriver wrote: > > Hey all, > I'm new to this list (and motorcycles in general) and am having trouble > with my '71 R50/5. >................... > I've been riding the bike recently about 2 times a week. I rode it > yesterday for about 30 minutes and everything was fine. Today it took > forever to start and backfired a little while it was warming up (not > idling, >................... > Backed it into the garage and popped the plugs which were pretty filthy > with carbon. Went to the parts store, bought a new set of plugs, came back > and put them in. Start it up again and same thing. Checked the air filter > it's ok. Don't think the gas is bad (Amoco 93 octane). A book recommended > checking the main jet on the carb. Question: Do I have to pull the carbs to > clean out the main jet? Is it recommended? > > Well, if anyone knows what I should check and/or has some suggestions I'm > all ears. Also, if anyone knows of a good repair book for /5's I'd > appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Welcome Ryan, Sounds like there could be a number of things to check before putting a lot of time into rebuilding the carbs, although considering the age of the bike, they probably do need it. Since you've already checked for a clogged air cleaner: First thing I'd check is the choke cable attachment point on the carbs. Make sure it is tight enough that when you pull the choke lever up - the cables open the butterflies on both sides all the way. Check the air tubes that run from the carbs to the air cleaner to make sure they're clear - or remove them altogether until you resolve the problem. If this doesn't get you running then it's time to get more serious. Since it's hard to tell the true history of bike this old, that you recently aquired; check, adjust or replace the following: Points Plugs Timing Replace the plug wires. If the plug wires have the resistor style caps - replace the resistor caps (NGK has them). Check/adjust valves. Now to the carbs: Replace the diaphrams. They get pinholes in them over time. Check the floats. They can get saturated or can be uneven (one higher than the other). Remove and clean the jets Remove the float bowls, the jets screw out from below, carbs on bike if you want. Once done, it should run fine, if nothing else is wrong (burnt valves, excessive worn rings, diode board, etc.) As to a book: Haynes and Clymers both publish good references. I like Haynes. However, for most of this work, the maunal that came with the bike is adequate. As to fuel: Unless you have detonation, I'd run a lower octane fuel. I'd suggest trying 89. If you don't get valve clatter, stick with it or try something still lower. In stock form, the early /5's don't require the higher octane fuels we have today and you might be throwing money in the gas tank for no good reason. Good Luck. - -- I don't suffer from insanity.....I enjoy every minute of it! Steve Aikens, Clovis, New Mexico steve.aikensNoSpam@NoSpam3lefties.com My BMW URL is http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/4323/ Don't drop by very often, it never changes. Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 15:20:05 +1200 From: "KLEIN, DEAN" Subject: BMW: Jerry asks about drippy carbs > My 1985 R80 left carb leaks periodically for no apparent reason. 99% of < snip > > Does this require action on my part??? Yes. Lightly tap it with your foot. If it doesn't work, kick it. I'm not kidding. > Is this a float problem??? Probably. If the bike sits for long periods or is only occasionally ridden, the floats will sometime stick. If it persists, rebuild 'em. It's always worked for me... Dean aka BMWloco 20 years on BMWs, owned 12 of 'em, no major failures (except for a R100GS) Date: Sun, 05 Oct 1997 22:55:40 -0700 From: Mark Gensman Reply-To: mgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com Organization: Business Resource Group, Inc. To: thundtNoSpam@NoSpamslack.net Subject: Re: BMW: /6 valve knocking, ideas? Thomas Hundt wrote: > > | > My '74 /6 is knocking on hard uphill accelerations. Any ideas on what > > | Sounds like rod bearings to me. I'd pull the barrels and check it out > | before it gets real spendy. > > Hey Mark, > > What is "pulling the barrels"? Taking off the cylinder? > (ie. half the engine)? Is this easy to do? (I'm a naive K-guy.) > > -Tom Yeah, Tom. Take off the valve covers, the heads and pull the barrels off. It takes about 10 minutes and you have pistons hanging out the side of your bike. The only thing you need is new gaskets and push rod tube rubbers when you put it back together. I also used a hose clamp for a ring compressor to facilitate assembly. Check the rod bearings, the rings, the carbon buildup on the top of the piston, the valves, and anything else you can think of while you're in there. Reassembly is easy but you need to torque the bolts properly and set your valves before finishing. All easy but then again I've done it many times. The time and minor expense for gaskets is worth it if you have bad rod bearings. If they go completly you're in for a huge expense. -- Mark Gensman MgensmanNoSpam@NoSpamix.netcom.com 95 K1100LT "You're never too old to rock and roll" K-Whiner #51 "The Green Hornet" Date: Fri, 10 Oct 97 01:38:00 PDT From: "Sobczyk, Joe" Subject: RE: BMW: R80RT Questions James Allmond wrote: >My R80RT ROASTS MY FEET. It has the stock California omissions crap >intact. Could this massive amount of heat be caused by an over >lean condition required to make the R80 clena enough for California >in the '80s? Standard BMW "safety feature." I remember road tests from the 60s mentioning this feature. It's never bothered me except on long trips. But YMMV, of course. Try thicker boots. > >Had a gas leak from the left carb the other day, pulled >the float bowl and noticed that no gas would flow unless >the switch was in the on position! The ignition switch? > So far, no one I've talked >to has ever seen a boxer do that. (The problem was trash in the carb). >Anyone come across this or know how to eliminate this lovely feature? >It's a pretty neat idea, but imagine that it could be a real bitch if >that relay (or whatever is cutting off the gas) were to lose power for >no apparent reason, in the middle of nowhere. It's a pure gravity-fed system. No relays involved. >Been a few years since my last airhead, is the throttle supposed to be >real (well, medium at least) stiff? Seems to be kinda light in the beginning >but requires a good pull to get the Bings to really open up. Doesn't have to be. You don't mention the year, but on some models (maybe all for that matter) there is a splitter that under the tank that brings two cables for the carbs together with the single cable for the throttle. Good place for gunk and junk to build up. Could be the throttle cable is shot, too. Joe Sobczyk Washington DC 85 K100RS Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 13:09:00 -0500 From: "LACKO, JOHN, HMR/US" Subject: BMW: R25 headlights Kees writes: >My R25 is a '51 model, not a '53. It should have a mechanical >dimmer switch. That part concerns me the most. I have no idea >what the headlight bucket should look like. The R25 Model would have the same headlight bucket as an R51/2, which has the mechanical headlight dipper and does *not* have the neutral light behind the speedo. When the R25/2 came out, it had a neutral light in the bucket, and the headlight dipper switch became the familiar chrome unit found on the left handlebar control, which was used up until the later 1960s. Some of the books on the subject can be misleading, because they list the R25 as a one-year-only (1950) bike, but in fact they were produced in 1951 as well. Mid-year 1951 (or thereabouts), the R25/2 was introduced, so there's an overlap for that year. The R25 service manual has a list of serial numbers on the cover that indicates which machines fall into that model. This drove me nuts for a while when I bought my 1951 R25, as it was fitted with a later headlight bucket (with neutral switch) after being in an accident, but there was no neutral light sending unit on the trans to connect it to. It was then that I did a little research and found out about the subtle differences. The headlight buckets are being reproduced in Germany - and they're not bad - but the trained eye will spot a repro from ten feet away. If you can, hold out for an original. The same shape was used on other 1950's German bikes (Zundapp, Horex, etc.), so you might also find one of these. Some will even use the same type of ignition/light switch - though the mounting point for the mechanical dipper will probably not be inside - you can always add this though. >New question: >I want to have the cardan shaft rechromed. I can press off the >flange, that shouldn't be too much of a problem. But what do >I do with the cardan coupling at the other end of the shaft? Remember that the "cardan shaft" should be hard chromed, not decorative chromed. Decorative chrome would be what you find on handlebars, headlight rings, etc. Hard chrome is found on the axles, cardan shaft, and handlebar mounts. Find a good industrial hard chromer and ask for hard chrome with a high polish. It's indistinguishable from decorative chrome in luster, but much stronger and resistant to flaking & peeling. There's also no problem for them to mask-off areas that should not be plated. Remember to measure how far down the shaft the coupling is pressed, as you'll want to re-install it to the same distance! Good luck! jl John Lacko Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 09:35:50 +0000 From: "Wes Jackson" Subject: Re: BMW: /5 generator boost? John Greenland asks the old question, heard often at this time of year: > Does anyone know if there's any possibility of putting a beefed up > generator into a '71 R50/5? I'm tired of goosing the throttle when I'm > waiting at an intersection just to keep my blinker blinking. > JNG Hi John. I was unhooked from the list for a couple of days so missed any answers to your query. However, I guess a bit of redundancy never hurt. Here goes, in kind of order of low cost to "Oh my God!" BTW, I went through *all* this stuff in '74, '75 and can almost remember way back then. 1) When sitting, waiting for a light, leave your signals off till just before the light changes. 2) When waiting at a stop, hold the bike with your legs, rather than the brakes wherever possible. 3) At town speeds, in daylight, turn headlight off whenever possible. 4) Modify the battery box to take the largest Yuasa battery you can jam in. I used to put YB14s in. I think a YB16 might go if you tried. Put a bit of thin rubber, such as inner tube, between the battery and the air box. You'll prolly have to saw a bit off your choke lever to make it clear the battery. 5) Go to your friendly, local auto supply and pick up a solid state regulator, Blue Streak number VR124 or equivalent. This will up your charging voltage to 14.4 from 13.6 and lower the peak charge from 3500rpm to 2500. I've been running these in both my boxers for several years. 6) Replace your stator and rotor with ones from '76 or later. This will give you 280 watts instead of 180. By the book, you prolly should also replace your diode board with a new one which should have stronger diodes for the increased current. I didn't and mine has been working fine for 21 years. It may, however, fail in the long run. 7) After all this stuff, drive in a way that will put the least stress on your electrics (see steps 1, 2, 3). I run halogen headlight, extra running lights, Priority Plus, electric vest and hand warmers, with no problem. Just gotta be cautious. 8) Good luck. The usual disclaimers apply & YMMV. Wes Jackson Nanaimo BC Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 16:22:06 From: Craig Vechorik Subject: Re: BMW: Pinging Toaster Steve: At 04:35 PM 10/30/97 -0500, you wrote: > > My '73 R60/5 has a bad case of pre-ignition detonation. I was told to >replace my base gaskets with a thicker heavy-duty gasket, or two standards to >lower compression. Is this my best remedy (in a cheapskate kinda way)? Well, there are a few things you can do to make this go away, and stay away. first. Pull the heads, and decarbonize the heads, and tops of the pistons. and while your at it, stick new rings in, if the clearance is still in spec. Don't bother with the thick base gaskets, that bike does not suffer from too high of compression. Second. While your working on it, put an electronic ignition on it, like a Dyna III. that will insure that your timing will never change, and you use the worn out advance that you have, and it won't effect the electronic ignition. third. Modify the crankcase breather system. You can step down the outlet to 5/16 or 3/8, and attach a hose to it, route that under the aircleaner element, and drill a hole in the back of one of the air box covers, to let the hose pass through. Route the hose down the left side of the swing arm, and let the oil, that is expelled through the crankcase breather, to drip on the ground behind you, instead of going down the right carb. The oil dripping into the right cylinder, via the crankcase breather, causes the right combustion chamber to soot up with carbon, which raises the compression, and the carbon can form hot "spots" which will cause pre ignition or PING, as you say. I did all this to my R90S, and it has not suffered from "ping" since. >BTW, I >already run hi-test gas, so that's not the problem. TIA > >Steve Riddel >Beemer73NoSpam@NoSpamaol.com >Longwood, Fl > Craig Vechorik "Bench Mark Works" http://members.aol.com/VechBMW/index.html Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 22:22:01 -0600 (CST) From: Geoff Adams Subject: Re: BMW: Pinging Toaster The R60/5 had one of the highest compression ratios of its day. Don't forget to install new ignition advance springs. The springs resist the centrifugal advance and weak ones allow the timing to advance at a lower rpm. A really cheap and easy thing to try first. Geoff Adams, Arlington, TX tbcNoSpam@NoSpamdfw.net TBC NTCOF NTS K100RS MOA22753 IBMWR BMWDFW LSBMWR Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 15:33:43 -0800 From: Greg Hutchinson Subject: Re: BMW: TECH: leaky valve covers on an airhead Bryan Lally (lallyNoSpam@NoSpamlanl.gov) wrote: > > Presidents, > > Your assistance please. I have gotten my recently acquired '82 R65LS > back together, after a spline lube, replacement of the main wiring > harness, and various other disassemblies for inspection. All looks > good, except for: > > LEAKY VALVE COVERS > > Oil is dripping out of the left cover, just forward of center on the > bottom. The gasket is new, and the bolts are tight. > > What do esteemed presidents do? Double gaskets? Use silicone gasket > sealer? Take the covers and/or the heads to a machine shop? > > When I took the covers off, there were orange/red rubber gaskets under > the covers, as well as the standard gray ones, so it appears that this > may have been a long-standing problem. If that's the solution, where > do these rubber gaskets come from? > > Thanks, as always. > > - Bryan > > ---------------------------- > '82 R65LS Red, of course! This is a progressive problem. The solution depends on your patience and the amount of money you want to spend. The R80ST has the same problem. Over time, the heating and cooling of the heads in normal day to day operation will slowly warp the heads...especially if the temps are extreme. Real hot days and real cold nights. 1. The lazy approach is to live with it and add oil. Put a paper under the head and move on with life's larger issues. 2. The pragmatic approach will be to double gasket the cover. This will sometimes solve the problem for a while - months maybe - before the leak starts again. Then go to (1) above. 3. The permanent - read "expensive" - solution is to pull the heads, drop the valve train -after labeling them pieces properly - and have the heads milled. While you're in there, you might want to pull the wrist pins, pistons and rods and have them balanced. If there is a proper machine shop around with not much of a backup, this should be a 2-3 day job with lots of downtime waiting for parts. Good luck Greg Hutchinson BMW MOA Club Coordinator Foster City, CA Date: Sat, 15 Nov 1997 18:27:45 -0500 From: "Dave Cushing" Subject: BMW: Re: TECH: leaky valve covers on an airhead It looks like the previous owner had the same problem and solverd it with the additional silicone gasket. As a dealer, I have seen this before on all twin models. Either the cylinder head is warped or the valve cover is warped. Usually happens from prolonged idling --- especially in traffic. Also happens from too long a warm-up before riding. Easiest to take the studs out of the valve covers and have the cover ground flat again. The result should be good for years. Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 23:53:52 -0700 From: "Mark Alft" Subject: BMW: Re: TECH: leaky valve covers on an airhead I have, for years, used silicone seal. You can get far more complicated if you wish, but the blue silicone stuff works easily, quickly, and the excess comes off very easily. Good luck Best, mark Date: 25 Nov 1997 08:20:47 U From: "Diaz Jon" Subject: BMW: Wayne's oil weep Wayne wrote: >My R850R which has been relatively trouble-free for 21K miles looks like it >is developing an oil leak in the flywheel bellhousing. When washing the >bike I noticed an oily film at the seam between the engine and tranny on >the right side below the TB. > >Anyone else experience this. My RS has done this for about 70K. Never more than a dribble, and that only happens on seriously hot days. My bike has had its trans and clutch assy off once, and neither the main seal nor the trans input shaft showed any weeping, so we never fixed anything. Bike continues to work fine. Jon Diaz Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 02:28:22 -0500 (EST) From: jrocheNoSpam@NoSpammailer.fsu.edu (jim roche) Subject: BMW: LWB vs SWB + Axle Sizes Early On > >Date: Mon, 8 Dec 1997 17:53:52 -0600 >From: mikemillsapNoSpam@NoSpamjuno.com >Subject: BMW: BMWs - LWB vs. SWB in 1973 > >Steve, > >Where in hell do you get this stuff? Do you stay awake at night >rummaging through ancient BMW magazines and/or manuals memorizing arcane >trivia so that you can input info like this onto the list? I suppose you >can tell us what colors the bike was offered in in 1973, . . . and the >stock tires, . . . optional equipment? I hope you don't keep Becky up >late at night with this type of activity. Think of something else to do >at night! > >With sympathy to the Woman, > >Mike :>) > >Sez Steve, "This is an easy one. Look for a long wheelbase bike '73 /5 >LWB (be >aware there are both LWB and SWB bikes in '73)or newer. >If you're not sure how to tell the difference between SWB and LWB, at a >glance: look at the driveshaft housing of the bike - in '73 there were >two - one that was a smooth housing from the output shaft end to the >rear end, and one that has a weld around it 2 1/4 inches from the rear >end flange, where it looks like a piece was added - it was. In '74, the >driveshaft housing was properly lengthened and does not show the added >piece." > > >Lubbock, Texas ><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< end of message >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Dear Mike, you had to know this stuff if you were ever really "There" because the high speed handling of all BMW Twins improved dramaticaly when the long wheel base was introduced. More heads begain to touch down however as the new /6 style BMWs tried to lay down as low as their well prepared /5 brothers. BMW had a near fatal flaw in the very early longwheel base models however that was a wierd feeling back then and still a worry to us older timers even now. When introduced, the long wheel base design now demanded that more driver input (counter steering) be used to get these new LWB bikes to heel over as quick as their SWB /5 brothers would, when the need be. This added "need for more direct input" (counter steer) now placed more strain on the "axel to contact patch" link. You know whats there, the axle. Unfortunely BMW chose to leave a 14 mm axle in the design loop and therefore some of the early 1974 (900s especially) bikes, be they S or Standard, were some of the worst handleing bikes BMW ever made. Of course BMW realized its own mistake and design flaw and changed to a 17 mm axle in midyear 1974. None the less, "If you are one of those who are still running around on a standard stock frontend on a early 1974 airhead -- stay lucky." Best, Jim(Dr.Curve)Roche jrocheNoSpam@NoSpammailer.fsu.edu high performance old twins http://garnet.acns.fsu.edu/~jroche/index.html Date: Tue, 23 Dec 1997 08:09:00 -0500 (EST) From: proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com Subject: Re: BMW: Current BMW model = R80GS Basic?? Bill, The R80G/S Basic is no longer in production. It was offered last year and was the VERY LAST Type 247 airhead built. It was white with a blue frame and had original R80G/S bodywork. It cost about 15KDM (?), and would have cost about $10K if BMW had brought it into the country. I saw one last year while in Germany, it was BEAUTIFUL!!!!! Happy Holidays, Phactory Phil aka Phil Rose proseNoSpam@NoSpamdraper.com _______________________________________________________________________________ Subject: BMW: Current BMW model = R80GS Basic?? From: WDKnudsonNoSpam@NoSpamcompuserve.com at ._datafork Date: 12/22/97 8:23 PM I was browsing on the Motorrad site and noticed that BMW offers an "R80GS Basic" in Germany. From the picture shown it looks like an airhead. The valve cover looks like the /6 type. http://www.motorradonline.de/MRD/KAT/katalog.asp?ID=291 Anyone know about this model? Bill